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Hi, I am new to the forum and have a question on my 2009 RX350: Can I use a weight distribution hitch on this vehicle to pull a 2000 lbs (dry weight) camper trailer from southern Ontario to the Rockies and back? Or would the torsion from this type of hitch bend the frame or snap the bolts? The purpose of the slightly stronger weight distrib hitch (4000 lbs vs 3500 for my existing hitch) would be to level the Lexus, reduce trailer bounce on bumps, and reduce trailer sway.
Has anyone used a weight distribution hitch on their 2009 or older RX without problems? The available Curt #13530 weight distrib hitch (rated to tow up to 4000 lbs with weight distribution) is explicitly stated by Curt to fit the 2009 RX350 (among other models and years), but I can't find a statement anywhere that it can be used as a weight distribution hitch on the 2009 or older RX350 instead of just as a regular hitch.
My situation is this:
- The trailer GVWR is 3500 lbs (unloaded weight is only 2000 lbs).
- The trailer's dry tongue weight (hitch weight) is about 220 lbs.
- The current hitch receiver installed on the vehicle is a factory model typically installed by a Lexus or Toyota dealer.
- The installed factory hitch as far as I know is NOT rated for use with weight distribution bars (torsion bars). The sticker on the hitch only mentions the regular towing limit of 3500 pounds and does not mention a weight distribution towing limit.
- A local hitch installation expert believes the frame of the RX350 probably was not designed to accommodate a weight distribution hitch until 2010. Our RX350 is a 2009. The local expert, who looked at our existing hitch on a hoist, believes we won't gain enough by replacing the hitch.
- The vehicle as it is now is rated to tow 3500 lbs with the factory tow package which I have, and rated for a max tongue weight of 350 lbs.
- But the trailer currently does sway and bounce some when we tow it. And the Lexus sags several inches in the back. I know the sway can be corrected by an antisway bar and probably be improved by raising the ball mount on the vehicle, which is currently about 2 inches too low for the trailer.
- The after-market Curt #13530 weight distrib hitch mentioned above (rated to tow up to 4000 lbs with weight distribution) is attached to the frame by 6 bolts rather than the 4 bolts that I think are used for the current factory hitch. The threads on the frame are cage nuts (captured nuts or maybe they are welded on, not sure)
So to sum up, I would like to know:
- Can a weight distribution hitch be used on the 2009 RX350 without bending the frame or breaking the bolts holding the hitch to the frame
- Does the fact that Curt designates its weight distribution hitch as fitting my vehicle mean that it is intended to be used as a weight distribution hitch on my vehicle, or just as a regular hitch?
- For a trailer that may weigh 2,800 lbs loaded, is it overkill to replace my perfectly functional non-weight distribution hitch with a weight distribution hitch that adds 500 lbs of towing capacity and 50 lbs of tongue weight capacity. The cost of the new Curt hitch would be about $ 240 Canadian to me, plus maybe $30 for a torque wrench to install the hitch myself.
Thank you in advance for some expert advice on these questions.
It seems as though the actuator that moves the passenger's side mirror has become disconnected. Has anyone tried getting into one of these things? It isn't a critical function, but it is quite annoying to have to manually push it out after a carwash or something. It is a '99 if that matters.
I have a 2004 RX330 which has a 6 CD changer and a cassette player. Has anyone had any success installing an adapter such as this one to allow direct mp3 input? I have a FM radio transmitter, but the reception from my phone from the headphone jack through the transmitter is spotty and has static. I don't want to use bluetooth. I'm having the dash replaced by the dealer so I thought this would be a good time to do this. Thanks for any guidance/suggestions. Bob http://pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=1082&CategoryID=45
2006 RX330 210,000 km runs fine. NOT powered open or close kind, very basic liftgate strut style with a open switch on it.
Failing Lock actuator symptom: Liftgate locker stuck close sometimes after press release button[switch], very weak or slow click from lock actuator motor, most of time the locking system may work after the first press,but second and third press within short time almost impossible get locker release. same pattern will happen after lock and unlock the car couple minutes later.
I guess the thermistor [kind of motor overheat protection] inside the motor is shot, so a motor replacement worth a try as it is dirty cheaper than a actuator assembly.
After replace the motor only, now the liftgate lock release works very well with strong motor running sound even continue press unlock switch.
Start from both side and pull hard.
Old vs new
Most Google search info are door lock actuator motor repair,so I order this D flat shaft as it will compatible both round shaft and D flat shaft.
This is exact right replacement motor w/ brass collar
Small but handy tool!
Below are two used items on ebay listing which show fit for 04-09 RX330/RX350,but it appear quite different design.may fit for power open and close liftgate version.
I have a 2002 rx300 fwd, and I know I am late to the game, but like just about everyone that has posted here, I also had the same problem and (thanks to many of you) the same solution. I had the filter replaced, system drained, new ATF added and everything worked out great (especially saving the 5k on a new transmission). This was about 2000 miles ago (135k miles on the car).
This past weekend I drove to DC from Pittsburgh and back with no problems what-so-ever, until I pulled onto my street and all of a sudden the car jerked and the rpms shot way up but the car didn't really move (I think it would go about 25pmh while at 5000rpms), like it did just before it quit completely and before I had the filter/fluid replaced. Thinking that maybe the filter was clogged again I replaced filter/fluid a second time. I should note that the fluid looked like it the day I put it in - still very red and hardly anything in the filter.
Now here is the new issue - when you put the car into drive or reverse there is (what my mechanic calls) a delayed engagement. That is to say, after a few seconds the car will finally move. If you push too hard on the accelerator the car will jerk hard and then engage. If you are very easy on the accelerator, if doesn't jerk, but still takes time to engage. Once the car is moving, however, everything is seemingly great. I took it for a test drive on the highway, once I merged into traffic and had the car going about 35mpg it shifted very smoothly. Its just went it idles that it drops out of gear and then has the delayed engagement. My mechanic suggested that it might be the gear pump in the transmission itself, that is failing, and that it is not building up enough pressure when first put into D or R. Any thoughts or guidance here would be greatly appreciated.