Hello! My name is Jake and I have an 04 RX330 with 230,000 miles on it. Not certain on the history of it but I have gotten it with no heat and an overheating problem(EDIT: previous owners said it has overheated on them). I immediately knocked out the easy stuff, checked coolant levels, verified fans were working. So I end up doing serious work that it needed: waterpump, timing belt, power steering pump, upper/lower intake gaskets, thermostat(THM 117-$11.32 at napa), valve cover gaskets, spark plugs. I end up finding smoke swirling out of a crack in the radiator while the car was idling for an hour during a fuel injector decarbonizing process. I end up replacing the radiator as well as the fan motors with the relay because the fans wouldn't turn on. I ended up using a power probe straight to the old fan motors and only fan #2 worked. I end up putting it all together-bled all of the air out of the cooling system with an airlift evacuation tool-and this thing is still overheating! Today I pulled it in and put the scantool on it-temp reads 244 degrees, so it's up there. I take a laser thermometer gun and the passenger-side (or upper hose) of the radiator read 183 degrees give or take and the part of the intake that the sensor screws into was around the same. So I thought it's only a $20 sensor, and replaced it-also considering it had a previous P0117 code(engine coolant temperature circuit low input). I know when the DTC is aiming at the input part of a circuit, it's talking about something with the sensor. I thought this would do it, BUT the car still overheats via gauge. Good news was I had heat, so I'd blast it when it starts climbing up and it'd slowly go down. I'm really stumped now, because I know the heater core acts as a mini radiator, but it doesn't make sense that the heatercore cools the engine down but not the fans and radiator being fully functional. The upper heater hose is piping hot with pressure but the lower hose is room temperature with pressure, I verified by squeezing the hoses. Is the thermostat defective? I installed it with the wobbler pin positioned at the top via installation instructions. I feel like I might run a compression test tomorrow to check the head gaskets, but I feel like I'm missing another sensor or something-I'm a freshman in college so anyone with experience I'd greatly appreciate it!
Hi, I am new to the forum and have a question on my 2009 RX350: Can I use a weight distribution hitch on this vehicle to pull a 2000 lbs (dry weight) camper trailer from southern Ontario to the Rockies and back? Or would the torsion from this type of hitch bend the frame or snap the bolts? The purpose of the slightly stronger weight distrib hitch (4000 lbs vs 3500 for my existing hitch) would be to level the Lexus, reduce trailer bounce on bumps, and reduce trailer sway.
Has anyone used a weight distribution hitch on their 2009 or older RX without problems? The available Curt #13530 weight distrib hitch (rated to tow up to 4000 lbs with weight distribution) is explicitly stated by Curt to fit the 2009 RX350 (among other models and years), but I can't find a statement anywhere that it can be used as a weight distribution hitch on the 2009 or older RX350 instead of just as a regular hitch.
My situation is this:
- The trailer GVWR is 3500 lbs (unloaded weight is only 2000 lbs).
- The trailer's dry tongue weight (hitch weight) is about 220 lbs.
- The current hitch receiver installed on the vehicle is a factory model typically installed by a Lexus or Toyota dealer.
- The installed factory hitch as far as I know is NOT rated for use with weight distribution bars (torsion bars). The sticker on the hitch only mentions the regular towing limit of 3500 pounds and does not mention a weight distribution towing limit.
- A local hitch installation expert believes the frame of the RX350 probably was not designed to accommodate a weight distribution hitch until 2010. Our RX350 is a 2009. The local expert, who looked at our existing hitch on a hoist, believes we won't gain enough by replacing the hitch.
- The vehicle as it is now is rated to tow 3500 lbs with the factory tow package which I have, and rated for a max tongue weight of 350 lbs.
- But the trailer currently does sway and bounce some when we tow it. And the Lexus sags several inches in the back. I know the sway can be corrected by an antisway bar and probably be improved by raising the ball mount on the vehicle, which is currently about 2 inches too low for the trailer.
- The after-market Curt #13530 weight distrib hitch mentioned above (rated to tow up to 4000 lbs with weight distribution) is attached to the frame by 6 bolts rather than the 4 bolts that I think are used for the current factory hitch. The threads on the frame are cage nuts (captured nuts or maybe they are welded on, not sure)
So to sum up, I would like to know:
- Can a weight distribution hitch be used on the 2009 RX350 without bending the frame or breaking the bolts holding the hitch to the frame
- Does the fact that Curt designates its weight distribution hitch as fitting my vehicle mean that it is intended to be used as a weight distribution hitch on my vehicle, or just as a regular hitch?
- For a trailer that may weigh 2,800 lbs loaded, is it overkill to replace my perfectly functional non-weight distribution hitch with a weight distribution hitch that adds 500 lbs of towing capacity and 50 lbs of tongue weight capacity. The cost of the new Curt hitch would be about $ 240 Canadian to me, plus maybe $30 for a torque wrench to install the hitch myself.
Thank you in advance for some expert advice on these questions.
It seems as though the actuator that moves the passenger's side mirror has become disconnected. Has anyone tried getting into one of these things? It isn't a critical function, but it is quite annoying to have to manually push it out after a carwash or something. It is a '99 if that matters.
I have a 2004 RX330 which has a 6 CD changer and a cassette player. Has anyone had any success installing an adapter such as this one to allow direct mp3 input? I have a FM radio transmitter, but the reception from my phone from the headphone jack through the transmitter is spotty and has static. I don't want to use bluetooth. I'm having the dash replaced by the dealer so I thought this would be a good time to do this. Thanks for any guidance/suggestions. Bob http://pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=1082&CategoryID=45
2006 RX330 210,000 km runs fine. NOT powered open or close kind, very basic liftgate strut style with a open switch on it.
Failing Lock actuator symptom: Liftgate locker stuck close sometimes after press release button[switch], very weak or slow click from lock actuator motor, most of time the locking system may work after the first press,but second and third press within short time almost impossible get locker release. same pattern will happen after lock and unlock the car couple minutes later.
I guess the thermistor [kind of motor overheat protection] inside the motor is shot, so a motor replacement worth a try as it is dirty cheaper than a actuator assembly.
After replace the motor only, now the liftgate lock release works very well with strong motor running sound even continue press unlock switch.
Start from both side and pull hard.
Old vs new
Most Google search info are door lock actuator motor repair,so I order this D flat shaft as it will compatible both round shaft and D flat shaft.
This is exact right replacement motor w/ brass collar
Small but handy tool!
Below are two used items on ebay listing which show fit for 04-09 RX330/RX350,but it appear quite different design.may fit for power open and close liftgate version.