I have bought a new 2016 RX350 and the vehicle was driven 30k. When i took my car for servicing, the dealer has mentioned "BG fuel and oil additive" and "replace gear oil within rear differential and transfer case" which the dealer said was recommended by Lexus. Is it really necessary to perform these services? How does it affect my vehicle? If these options needs to performed then can i delay for another 5 or 10k?
And if i have to opt in for these services then can you please suggest any mechanic outside of Lexus dealer as the dealer costs are 283 for parts and 478 for labor. These prices includes other services which i have not mentioned here. When i opted out of these two, the price was reduced by over $300.
Any information shared is greatly appreciated.
I have a 2015 RX350 F Sport (This is our second RX we bought from the same dealer, no issues with the first RX) we bought with 19K miles on it. Great car with no issues except for this vibration issue that showed up around 30K. Noticed a slight vibration in the rear like a tire out of balance so when we went for 30K service I had them check tire balance. What they found after trying to balance one of the tire was a small amount of water inside the tire. (Note: I had fixed a leak in that tire and had added air from my compressor so we assumed it came from my compressor)
No problems until about 34K noticed a vibration on the front end like a tire out of balance. I had not done anything to any of the tires (no air added). So we went for our 35K service. They checked my vibration issue and after numerous attempts to balance they broke down all four tires and found small amount of water in each tire. With one tire having more than the others causing my issue.
Couple of their mechanics said they have seen this happen a few times before on the RX but I have searched around on google and not finding any posts about an issue like this. Back when I was young in the 70's I worked on cars for a living, never in my life saw a tire make water internally on its on no matter the condition. Water in tires has happened but usually we were able to determine which service center had water in their air.
Service guy told me this is not covered under warranty, not sure I agree since we have only put air in the one tire since we have owned it, they have done all the work on the car. I think they must have a moisture issue in their air system. I asked if they had nitrogen but they do not. So, I think I will have them filled with nitrogen and hopefully eliminate future problems.
I wanted to ask you guys on the forum if anyone ever had this problem or heard about this type of problem. Any past experience or comments you may have would be appreciated
Thanks in advance
I have owned my 2000 Lexus rx300 since they came out, but I have never tried to do any kind of mechanical work on it. Just not that guy. Well, my alternator just died and a friend said that it was easy to replace. So....I disconnected the negative on battery, now trying to remove the electrical connections from alternator. One with a few small wires inside came off fairly easily, hope I fidn't greak it. The other I have no idea how to remove. I guess that the connector covers the electrical wire to the battery. Do I push or pull or pry it off? None of these sound like good ideas to me. I atttached a photo of it.
Meanwhile I located and loosened the pivot bolt. Now I am debating how I am going to reach the other 2 bolts I beed to remove. I watched some videos but ghey did not provide enough detail for me. I would appreciate any help.
Hello! My name is Jake and I have an 04 RX330 with 230,000 miles on it. Not certain on the history of it but I have gotten it with no heat and an overheating problem(EDIT: previous owners said it has overheated on them). I immediately knocked out the easy stuff, checked coolant levels, verified fans were working. So I end up doing serious work that it needed: waterpump, timing belt, power steering pump, upper/lower intake gaskets, thermostat(THM 117-$11.32 at napa), valve cover gaskets, spark plugs. I end up finding smoke swirling out of a crack in the radiator while the car was idling for an hour during a fuel injector decarbonizing process. I end up replacing the radiator as well as the fan motors with the relay because the fans wouldn't turn on. I ended up using a power probe straight to the old fan motors and only fan #2 worked. I end up putting it all together-bled all of the air out of the cooling system with an airlift evacuation tool-and this thing is still overheating! Today I pulled it in and put the scantool on it-temp reads 244 degrees, so it's up there. I take a laser thermometer gun and the passenger-side (or upper hose) of the radiator read 183 degrees give or take and the part of the intake that the sensor screws into was around the same. So I thought it's only a $20 sensor, and replaced it-also considering it had a previous P0117 code(engine coolant temperature circuit low input). I know when the DTC is aiming at the input part of a circuit, it's talking about something with the sensor. I thought this would do it, BUT the car still overheats via gauge. Good news was I had heat, so I'd blast it when it starts climbing up and it'd slowly go down. I'm really stumped now, because I know the heater core acts as a mini radiator, but it doesn't make sense that the heatercore cools the engine down but not the fans and radiator being fully functional. The upper heater hose is piping hot with pressure but the lower hose is room temperature with pressure, I verified by squeezing the hoses. Is the thermostat defective? I installed it with the wobbler pin positioned at the top via installation instructions. I feel like I might run a compression test tomorrow to check the head gaskets, but I feel like I'm missing another sensor or something-I'm a freshman in college so anyone with experience I'd greatly appreciate it!
Hi, I am new to the forum and have a question on my 2009 RX350: Can I use a weight distribution hitch on this vehicle to pull a 2000 lbs (dry weight) camper trailer from southern Ontario to the Rockies and back? Or would the torsion from this type of hitch bend the frame or snap the bolts? The purpose of the slightly stronger weight distrib hitch (4000 lbs vs 3500 for my existing hitch) would be to level the Lexus, reduce trailer bounce on bumps, and reduce trailer sway.
Has anyone used a weight distribution hitch on their 2009 or older RX without problems? The available Curt #13530 weight distrib hitch (rated to tow up to 4000 lbs with weight distribution) is explicitly stated by Curt to fit the 2009 RX350 (among other models and years), but I can't find a statement anywhere that it can be used as a weight distribution hitch on the 2009 or older RX350 instead of just as a regular hitch.
My situation is this:
- The trailer GVWR is 3500 lbs (unloaded weight is only 2000 lbs).
- The trailer's dry tongue weight (hitch weight) is about 220 lbs.
- The current hitch receiver installed on the vehicle is a factory model typically installed by a Lexus or Toyota dealer.
- The installed factory hitch as far as I know is NOT rated for use with weight distribution bars (torsion bars). The sticker on the hitch only mentions the regular towing limit of 3500 pounds and does not mention a weight distribution towing limit.
- A local hitch installation expert believes the frame of the RX350 probably was not designed to accommodate a weight distribution hitch until 2010. Our RX350 is a 2009. The local expert, who looked at our existing hitch on a hoist, believes we won't gain enough by replacing the hitch.
- The vehicle as it is now is rated to tow 3500 lbs with the factory tow package which I have, and rated for a max tongue weight of 350 lbs.
- But the trailer currently does sway and bounce some when we tow it. And the Lexus sags several inches in the back. I know the sway can be corrected by an antisway bar and probably be improved by raising the ball mount on the vehicle, which is currently about 2 inches too low for the trailer.
- The after-market Curt #13530 weight distrib hitch mentioned above (rated to tow up to 4000 lbs with weight distribution) is attached to the frame by 6 bolts rather than the 4 bolts that I think are used for the current factory hitch. The threads on the frame are cage nuts (captured nuts or maybe they are welded on, not sure)
So to sum up, I would like to know:
- Can a weight distribution hitch be used on the 2009 RX350 without bending the frame or breaking the bolts holding the hitch to the frame
- Does the fact that Curt designates its weight distribution hitch as fitting my vehicle mean that it is intended to be used as a weight distribution hitch on my vehicle, or just as a regular hitch?
- For a trailer that may weigh 2,800 lbs loaded, is it overkill to replace my perfectly functional non-weight distribution hitch with a weight distribution hitch that adds 500 lbs of towing capacity and 50 lbs of tongue weight capacity. The cost of the new Curt hitch would be about $ 240 Canadian to me, plus maybe $30 for a torque wrench to install the hitch myself.
Thank you in advance for some expert advice on these questions.