Hillsndale

For the car manufacturer, it is a matter of liability. Lexus is obligated to specify V rated tires because the car is capable of exceeding the speed rating of H rated tires.

Cool! Thanks for the update.

Hi Mike, It doesn't sound like a linkage problem because neutral is not next to 1st. When you are going 60mph the car should refuse to go into 1st for self preservation. Sorry I don't have any good answers for you. It may be a long shot, and I don't know when they started, but most transmissions are now computer controlled. If yours is, you can reset the computer by unhooking the battery for a few minutes. Always unhook the negative cable first, then the positive. Reattach in opposite order. Wear safety glasses whenever working with the battery. Again, I can't tell you if it is even worth trying. Good luck!

Here's some ideas: http://toolmonger.com/2009/10/09/reader-qu...trick/#comments I haven't tried any of those. Can it be accessed from the inside of the car after removing trim? I don't know if the c-pillar has access holes?

Maybe the mechanic left something unplugged/unhooked? If you find something to plug back in, you will have to reset the code by unhooking your negative battery cable for a couple minutes. You will lose your radio presets. If you can't find anything simple, I would take it right back to the mechanic and ask why did that happen right after he worked on it. I would give him a chance to take a look before jumping too hard on him, there might be a reasonable explanation?

That's what I did too. I used the universal one because that is what they had in stock and I was too impatient to wait. It was a PITA. The wires are very thin with a hard insulation, so they were hard to strip the insulation without breaking the wire, which of course is what happened so I had to cut one shorter and was freaking out that it might end up too short. I was able to use a regular box end wrench to remove the sensor. I didn't want to just cut the old wire in case they sold me the wrong sensor or something. The wire plug is small enough to fit through the box end and then slide the wrench down to the sensor. You will have to look when you find out which sensor though, some may not have enough room to swing a wrench, if so they make a special socket for O2 sensors so you can slide the wire through a slot in the socket. Oh, and if you get the universal sensor the plug that they have you splice in is much bigger than the stock one so you can't get it to pass through a box end wrench. I had to use the open end to install the new sensor. Works good though, Bosch brand. Good luck!

I'm not impressed with Toyo Proxes4 tires on an '02 GS. They spin easily in the rain (and it rains a lot here), tons of road noise and rough ride. On the positive side they are responsive and wear well.

I used the iridium plugs, I figured there was an engineering reason for Lexus to specify them. I farmed that job out to a local independent shop with Lexus experience and a good reputation. There are how to guides on the web though.

Welcome to LOC! I'm with you on the Chrysler styling. 1) No. And don't feel obligated to use a dealership, it's yours now. 2) Sounds like possible Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) is dirty. It is in between the air filter and the throttle body. There are posts about how to clean it yourself. The transmission computer is adaptive, ie. it "learns". Your can reset it by unhooking the car battery. Always unhook the negative first, then unhook positive. Leave it unhooked for a few minutes. And always opposite order to hook it back up. Let us know what how it works out. Good luck!

If you unplug the connector, a regular box end wrench should fit over the plug and slide down to the sensor.

The code scanner should have told you what component was bad. According to http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ "P0037 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)". That refers to the heater circuit within the Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor. Do yourself a favor and buy the direct replacement version of the sensor. The generic ones require splicing the old plug onto the new sensor because they are not specific to your car. The wires are really small with thin conductor inside hard insulation. If you call around, some of the parts stores offer free use of a code scanner so they can verify which part you need.

Clean, low miles, and certified. Yeah Baby!

Absolutely do not run the engine with the drain open!!!!! You may seize up your water pump. Most water pumps, whether automotive, plumbing, well water, etc. have one thing in common. They need to have water circulating to keep cool and lubricated. You were on the right track when you rightly figured out that there was only 25% in the system. So you are smarter than you realized. But here it is for anyone interested: 1) Flush. 2) Drain. 3) Close drain petcock. 4) Look up capacity of system (not just radiator). 5) Measure, Add pure undiluted anti-freeze at 1/2 the total capacity of the system. 6) Add water to nearly fill the radiator. 7) Run engine to normal operating temperature. The level in the radiator will drop as you work the air out of the system. 8) Important. Keep adding water until level stabilizes. You can buy a kit to do a "power flush". It's just a T fitting that you splice into the the heater hose. It has a connection for your garden hose. I'm a believer in using the type of anti-freeze recommended by the manufacturer. Does not cost that much more considering how long it lasts. One less thing to worry about. Excellent resource here: Repair Manual, Capacities Chart.

Thanks for the info, I need to look at that. I have a rattle only at idle, in gear and warmed up. So embarrassing that I put it in neutral at stop lights. It's been driving me nuts trying to find it because I can't exactly get under the car when it's running and in gear (no matter how much I trust my wife :o ).

Hey CD, I'm truly sorry to see you go through that. I had an Explorer keyed all the way down the side by a disgruntled employee. Unfortunately nobody witnessed the act so the police could not do anything, but I called the loser and "invited" him to come pick up his final check in person. Needless to say, he declined. Now he is a skid row bum, seen begging on street corners by several other people. I even saw him on the news when they were interviewing people at the homeless shelter. Karma is a 8!7(#! The body shop painted the whole side and it matched so well that you could not tell from any angle or lighting. Yeah you will move on, but now you have the perfect justification to not attend any event where you are not comfortable parking. I really can't understand the jealousy deal either, cut from a different cloth I guess.

I vote thin chrome, my wife says thick chrome. B)

Ask them how much they charge to do all that inspecting. May be worth it if free or cheap. Any time your car is up on a lift, they like to look for problems anyways. Then you are most likely to have them do the work verses if you had to discover a problem later you might take it elsewhere. Any time I get under my car I do a full visual inspection as a minimum. I've thus caught things early on before the problem escalates. For example I've discovered torn c.v. boots (not the Lexus), which if not fixed promptly, can let grit into the c.v. joints leading to needing joint/axle replacement. That was on a Nissan, but you get my drift. I would "disregard any recommended services that have been recently performed", as they suggested. I would suggest looking for either a Lexus dealer, Toyota dealer, or Independent shop listing Lexus/Toyota as a specialty or with an experienced Lexus mechanic. The dealer should have more of the common parts on hand. Most mechanics would do just fine on most Lexus problems, but having experience with a brand can help.

If you decide to go for it, keep posting your progress during the project. We want the good, the bad, and yes even the ugly. Pictures too. B)

Manual Pay close attention to the precautions regarding ABS, ie. open bleeder before compressing the calipers. Use a wire to support the calipers so they don't fall/hang from the brake hose. Be sure to take the rotors in for turning/resurfacing. On older Toyotas at least, there would be threaded holes that you screw a small bolt into to pull the rotor off the hub face. Something like 8mm (bolt size, not socket size). Anyone remember the bolt size? Just don't hammer on it with a steel hammer.

Yeah, what he said. Sure is purty tho! Amazing they can make/sell/ship for only $25 ???? The power they claim is probably the amount you would lose. We've all bought things that don't live up to their claims. It's a shame they don't have to prove that it works on the car they are selling it for. At least it didn't cost much.

If you have the time and desire, what better place to start learning than "dad's old car"? :whistles: For space, possibly a friend or relatives garage? They may even want to participate? Maybe there is a shop nearby you could take it to inspect the work after you are done? Just be sure to read the repair procedure through first to make sure you have the right tools, like a torque wrench (which will be needed for many future projects), and order all the parts. Then read again and follow all precautions right before starting the job. Personally, I swore off brake jobs years ago because of the hassle of having to take the rotors in to be turned (resurfaced), but since you need new rotors anyways..... If you want to toy with the idea, post a new topic and hopefully get a lot of perspectives on brake work, would help you decide and/or proceed.

13 ft.lbs. is correct.

^^^What he said. Iridium for 02.

Spoken like a true mod-der! :lol: :lol:

Service Manual