stcist2

The ABS system resets itself everytime you turn the ignition off..

Hello everyone, 'Iv'e been a member here since Ibought this wonderful car. Now I have a problem and would like some advise; while driving down our wonderful bumpy roads here in Minnesota it sounds like the right rear door is not closed all the way,it rattles with every bump. I thought I remembered reading on here about the sound deadening coming loose and causing a rattle noise, but I can not find that thread anymore. This just started happening and the temps have dipped into single digits, the car is parked outside. While I was coming home today it was really annoying, I reached back and held the door and it made no difference. I understand that I will have to pull the door panel off to see whats going on but as I said before its in the single digits here so I'll probably just live with it till the spring, none the less I would like to hear if there is a known cause for this. Thanking my fellow Lexus owners in advance..... Stan

How many miles are on the car? has it ever been tuned up?(spark plugs) If it was bad gas it should have starting acting up within a block or two...

just a couple of things... 1 dont forget about the crown of the road, it is very common that the road has a slight slope to the right,causing you to steer slightly to the left to keep going straight ahead... 2 check your tire pressures, too little air in the right tire(passenger) or too much air in the drivers tire will cause the same effect,very common for someone to look at the drivers front tire and think that it is too low,addding air until it "looks" right will affect the steering angle when trying to go "straight".

p/s they do make clear electrical tape just FYI

try using a test light to verify that your 12v constant is actually constant..

I would check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder, it could be low.

could be that envelope sittng on your dash? covering the daylight/night sensor?maybe.

It could just be the traction control kicking in. does it just happen on snow covered roads??

does it make this noise every single time you start it hot and or cold/>? have you tried starting with the ac turned off? could be a timing belt tensioner letting the timing belt chatter,possible waterpump siezing very strange indeed need to listen with the hood open and try to find a general location of where the noise is coming from, could help alot

I bought a set of Cooper tires for my car and have had nothing but problems with them, if I had it to do over a again I would spend the money and get the Michelins. I have had Cooper tires and Kumho tires on my other cars in the past and had absolutly no problems whatsoever. But, remember you get what you pay for!!!!

sorry to hear about your experience with the grammer police.... they do sell long needle nose pliers that you could reach in there and get the gum out.. probably your best bet is to find a replacement changer, it wont be cheap and i have never removed one from a 97 es but it shouldnt be too hard. one time someone posted a link to a web site that had a nice diagram of the changer, and part numbers and the like, try a search on here..something like toyota nation. cant quite remember, good luck

have someone check for codes, that should lead you in the correct direction

CO, Carbon Monoxide “HIGH” Air /fuel mixture too rich Air entering exhaust before 02 sensor Air filter restricted Air induction system restricted ; after accident Air injection system injecting air upstream of 02 sensor Crankcase breather filter plugged ECT sensor voltage too high for actual engine temperature Engine oil fuel saturated SHOULD BE 500 PPM OR LESS Evaporative canister fuel saturated Exhaust system restricted Fuel injector leaking Fuel pressure regulator manifold vacuum hose plugged Fuel pressure too high MAF sensor signal too high for amount of air actually entering system MAP sensor vacuum hose leaking MAP sensor voltage signal to PCM too high for actual engine load M/C solenoid disconnected on feedback carburetor 02 sensor lean biased 02 sensor not functioning 02 sensor voltage too low PCV valve plugged PCV vent in air cleaner plugged power valve leaking TPS sensor voltage signal to PCM too high for actual engine load.

posible causes; 1 timing belt slipped 2 clogged catylist 3 plugged fuel filter/fuel pump failing 4 something sucked into your intake(bird,rat,leaves) 5 ecm failure 6 parking brake engaged 7 bad gas 8 ?gremlins..lol J/K

sounds like you have multiple issues, first of all I would look for a vaccuum leak, everywhere from where the intake manifold meets the head to the air filter and everywhere in between; spray with wd 40 or carb cleaner listening for a change in rpm... scan the computer see if there are any codes.. sounds like a temp sensor or wiring to the temp sensor check the fuel pressure...possible fuel pump issue does the car have a mass airflow sensor, or a MAP sensor? could be dirty or defective... check all the vaccuum lines is there one or more disconnected or leaking? listen to the car, think, its trying to tell you whats wrong....

yes, just open the drain with the radiator cap off, engine cold and not running. you will never be able to get all of the old coolant out, unless you completely disassemble everything(engine included). close the drain and fill with a 50%50% mixture of antifreeze and water. but again i would reccomend you check the quality of the antifreeze you currently have in there, it is very likley that it is just fine..as far as removing the radiator hose to drain the coolant; yes i have done it. it is faster usually a lot messy-er too, most often its because you are replacing the hose or the radiator or even the t-stat. some of my concerns; how are you going to dispose of the cooland after its removed?it is toxic! do you have the proper tools and knowledge to perform this task safely? if you happen to get an air bubble and you over heat your car will you blame me? should you just take it to a shop that will do it for about 50 bucks and not have to worry about !Removed! up your nice car? i don't want to come off as being an a$$- hole but you should consider the options...

yes the oil interval function along with a lot of others tires filter trans service and several others you can set up for whatever you want. might pay off to sit in the car for a couple hours playing with all the buttons and stuff, even more helpful find an inquisitve teen and let them at it, they can figure this stuff out in no time. my son (14) had just about figured everything about mine after buying it in the cities in the 2 hour drive home. BTW on my unit there is a INFO button that takes you to a SERVICE menu...although mine being an 02 its prob diff than yours

when you have the valve cover off have someone crank the engine, what your looking for is the valve that is not moving

correct, you may need to remove the tire/wheel and look for marks on the car as well.

1. Yes you can use regular 5w-30 and change every 3000 miles. 2. No you do not HAVE to use synthetic oil, I do, with better performance , better engine protection, and the ability to extend the interval up to 15,000 miles. I use Mobil 1 and change every 5000 miles. 3. My car has a service function in the nav unit, you can simply use your trip odometer if your car doesn't have that option(read your owners manual) 4. the first time I changed the oil in my car I was unsure of the amount too, so I only put in four qurts and then checked the oil level after I started the engine for a moment and shut it off to find out i was a quart low, now I simply buy the five quart jug from walmart...

I replaced my coolant when I pulled the waterpump off, I used distiled water and toyota coolant. You should not need to change it if you have less than 100,000 miles on your car, it is a long life coolant. I would suggest buying a coolant specific gravity tester (less than 5 bucks) and check your coolant, it's a little eye dropper with colored balls inside of it. If none of the above applies then remove the plastic under the front of your car and look for a drain plug in the radiator 99% of radiators have one.

just use a longer bolt, remove one of the bolts shown and run the bolt through the chain then thread back in, common practice among mechanics

if its backfiring then it almost has to be a crossed wire.

you may have to roll the inner fender well lip up and in, check the tires for rub marks that should clue you in on where you need to make some adjustments