stcist2

sounds like a stuck valve or broken valve spring. you should be able to isolate the cylinder by shorting each plug wire (one at a time) till the popping stops . when you have located the the cylinder that is causing your problem, pull that valve cover and inspect the valve springs, if your lucky you might be able to just replace a spring.. if not your gonna be pullin some heads..

good to know

very common problem, just take it to your favorite tire shop and have them reseal the rim. usually they'll just put some rubber cement around the bead,while the tire is off the rim..

From your description it sounds like a temperature controlled vaccuum switch, it opens or closes when the proper temp is reached;depending on what it is actually connected to. if you still have the pieces that broke off you could try to glue them back on, but thats probably just a temp fix. go down to your local dealership and describe to them where its located(they have very detailed pictures in their computers)and get a new one, when your engine is cold remove the old one and replce it with the new one being careful not to break it when your tightening it, reconnect your hoses and there you have it ... fixed.

i dont think that your trans is toast yet. first things first find out where your leak is coming from and take the nessesary steps to repair it. whether you do it yourself or have it towed to your favorite mechanic, your choice. Your trans should make a come back when it has the proper fluid level, but there is only one way to find out.....

don't forget the brakes! they could be dragging a little..

I too would be interested in such an item!!!

read this thread steviej Shortly after the previous tread, I read a tread on IATN (international auto tech network), where professional tech post for help from other pros. It was for this same problem on a Nissan, and the conclusion of the tread was that cleaning the throttle blade was the fix. Now as previously mentioned here, the car will learn the new positons in time, but as you can imagine for a professional mechanic this is not a option. They cannot return a car, and tell the customer to drive it until it stops stalling at lights. By having a clean throttle body, the base airflow is closer to what it was from the factory. Which make it easier for the ECM to re-learn the idle setting. Also keep in mind that forcing the ECM to learn from a corrupt baseline can cause other issues. I personnelly have not worked on any of these electronic throttle bodies, but I do have my ASE L1 cert, and the theory is sound. You would be hard pressed to find a professional mechanic that would disagree with the idea that the throttle body needs to be cleaned. interesting stuff, I do have a new question though. what is the proceedure for cleaning one of these fly by wire throttle plates? when I had mine apart for the t belt and tune up I was not sure on how to get to the back of the throttle plate... seeing as 99 % of the build up is on the back side. would that be turn the key on mash the accel pedal and turn the key off? I would assume the throttle plate would return to the closed position when the key was turned off \.? or would it take two people, one to hold the accel pedal and the other to clean?? one thing for sure for everyone else reading this post; never use anything that could scratch the surfaces in there I.E. DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH TO CLEAN YOUR THROTTLE BODY!!! in the past Iv'e used carb spray and several clean rags, spray wipe repeat...until clean. and those paint gun cleaning tools are awsome they won't melt like a toothbrush and are really cheap at Harbor Freight..

I to have an 02 es, although i have never disconnected my battery ( and if I do I will hook up a memory saving device ) when fully warmed up mine idles at 600 rpm so if that is the third mark i believe your right there in the correct range... after looking closer at your picture it looks like yours is idling at 400 rpm, my needle is one notch higher. it could take up to about 50 miles of driving before it returns to normal

some would say that your car simply needs to re-learn how to idle

to eliminate the a\c just remove the serp belt and start the engine if there is no noise then turn each of the pulleys by hand and listen carefully

anybody know something on this shakes; possibly ... alignment; no-

That does not suprise me in the least....bandits! for that kind of money you can buy a code reader at the local auto parts store...

nevermind, after some searching I found out that I do.. thanks anyways

I think they are HID lights but if someone could tell me what to look for... BTW they do have the self leveling feature if that helps

it really sounds like your starter is bad. a little tap tap and that should get it going, sometimes it works and sometimes it does not... as far as the fuses go i would buy a 12 volt test light it makes checking fuses super easy, you don't have to pull the fuse to check it...

try another key first. but,it sounds like your starter is bad. try having someone tap on your starter while you try to crank it.. usually a broom stick or something made of metal to tap on starter. if it starts then for sure your starter is defective..

agreed, see where I live:B.F.E. what is a fair price for the disc? if its not too spendy I'd consider it

I too have a 02 es300 and the nav has never been updated, still works good and most info is acurate. why do you want to update it?

was the vehicle in running condition? was it running poorly? if it was running it is possible that the mass air flow sensor is bad , O2 sensor bad , maybe even a clogged air filter... need more info , was the cel on ? defenatly need more info

meaning if you tighten the crank pulley bolt the engine rotates the same direction when its running. standing on the passenger side of the car looking at the front wheel.

It sounds like you might have a bad engine/tranny mount allowing the engine to tilt when under hard acceleration, when the engine moves its possible that its opening the exhaust system, hence the noise.. try "power braking" when your in drive at a stop and if you hear the exaust get louder or feel the engine rock( you might even be able to see the engine move if you have the hood open ) youv'e found the problem

It just seems to be firmmer. and it did a little buck and jerk.Today it seems a little better, but it is raining so it might have been me...and yes it was just a drain and fill. I was suprised to read on the dipstick that under normal driving conditions the servicing the transmission was not required..Well after 98,000 miles i think that a drain and fill wouldn't hurt anything. next time I'll use AMS-OIL and see if thats better.. I would stick with the TIV. I used to do a drain and fill every 15k miles on my 02 ES. Did you ever have the ECU flashed for the tranny issue? (See the big pinned thread at the top of the forum)? Did you look at the fluid that was drained....what did it look like......cherry red and sweep smelling or brown and burnt smelling? steviej I just got the car a few months ago and I don't think the tranny ECU was ever flashed, when I checked the fluid before I drained it, it had a slight odor and just a tad bit burnt nothing bad but I do think it was its' first service..Today all was good although it did take a extra second or so to go unto last gear, once.. The closest dealer is about 200 miles away so Its not like I can run around the corner and bother them with questions...

i agree, in the past i had one coil go bad in a ford truck and when i replaced the one coil and plug, the misfire was still there. after a lot of head scratching i replaced all of the coils and wow perfect... this actually happened on several fords i worked on; one coil would go bad and to fix it all the coils had to be replaced

It just seems to be firmmer. and it did a little buck and jerk.Today it seems a little better, but it is raining so it might have been me...and yes it was just a drain and fill. I was suprised to read on the dipstick that under normal driving conditions the servicing the transmission was not required..Well after 98,000 miles i think that a drain and fill wouldn't hurt anything. next time I'll use AMS-OIL and see if thats better..