cduluk

I believe there are two types of Lexus sensors, i believe the ones pre-07 and another type for 07-present. Not sure if they're interchangeable. Also, on your RX, did you say they're supposed to have them but you're currently running them with no sensors? The light may be off for now, but the next time you drive in D for at least 20 minutes the warning indicator will come on. There's no way to avoid it... Your dealer can determine if they can register the SC wheel sensors to your GS. Believe me, if there was a way to delete the system all together i would have it done to mine!

My biggest issue with misuse of car horns is when people pull up a friends driveway and honk to let them know they're there to pick them up... However on the road i haven't found much misuse... Only time i hear people honking is when they've gotta let someone know they either 1: just did something dangerous, or 2: need to watch out. <_<

Nope, they're completely different units. Take a close look at the insert piece you removed. The front-top section is fixed whereas ours is hinged and can be flipped up. Our Rx's don't have the insert part you removed. The way your console is now (with that part removed) is exactly what we have, only we have that front piece that can be flipped up or pulled down. It's entirely different...

Good point! Most of the time we do, it's just a pain to get it and even more expensive to convert...

Yep, just needs to be reset like intakerGS said. Probably in the top 5 most STUPID things Lexus did when designing the newer Lexus'.

You only live once! Congrats

your LOC profile is "public", that's the definition of profile- so others can see it. Those who are not members of LOC cannot see anything you have set to private.

OHH! Our Rx's don't look like that, they're a bit different. There must be two designs for Rx's in the US and Australia? Here's mine:

What does it look like now?

You shouldn't have to pay to have this done, even if you're out of warranty. It's aTSB, so whether you're under warranty or not shoulnt matter. Just mention that you're having breathing problems and they should be able to good will it. I had it done to my Rx400h last March. They did mess up the car pretty bad, scratching my nav screen, radio and a few dash parts. BUT, they did end up replacing everything, it just took some time. Just take very detailed pics before you drop it off, and make it known that you want them to be careful. In my case, it was clear that they just rushed it... If they took their time there wouldn't have been any issues. I would definitely have them replace the evap core. The problem will only get worse! They will replace it with a modified evap core that will never flake again...

AH yes, "check system"... that's the second type of TPMS error message, the one that indicates a "problem" within the TPMS system itself, not just an indicator that a tire would be low and require re-calibration. My guess is that you'll need to visit the dealer for this one. I had the SAME error 2 times before, both times required me to see the dealer so they could fix it. I tried to fix it on my own, tried disconnecting the battery, doing all sorts of resets, but after 20 minutes of driving in D the light always came back on. I was never clear on what was wrong exactly, all i know is that i was in and out within 10 minutes and they didn't charge me. <_< Any chance your Rx's under warranty? From the pic you took of your Rx in your other topic, i see the wood trim (vs aluminum) so i'm gonna guess yours is an 07 or 08. I believe the warranty is 4 years... so even if you're off by a few months the dealer shouldn't hassle you about it... Just tell them that i happened after you replaced the battery.

K, that piece is actually attached to the vinyl covered piece right above it (piece in your pic with the nicks in it). you need to remove the whole thing to gain access to the back to remove the screws holding the two pieces together. It's a bit of a pain to get the piece out though... See this link for pics and detailed instructions: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=65164&st=0&p=413207&hl=socket&fromsearch=1entry413207

What is the error you're getting? Does it say "low tire" or something else in the gauge cluster LCD? There are two types of warnings...

To remove the taillight housing, you need to gain access to the 4 nuts (on the inside of the car) that hold the housings in place. For the housings on the rear 1/4 panels, open the tailgate, peak around the corner (to the area directly behind the lights) and you'll see a 3"x4" panel. Pry it off with a flathead screwdriver. Then peak inside and you'll see the back of the taillight. You'll also see 4 tapped screws (i believe a brass color?) coming from the back of the lights. At the point where they meet the car, you'll see a nut securing each. Remove the nuts (making sure not to drop them down into the annex of the car). Now the lights will pull right out. Then do your thing... <_< For the taillights on the tailgate itself, you'll need to remove the interior panels to gain access to the back of the housings. You'll again see the tapped screws and nuts. Remove all...

Well, you can't really "take it out" of the console, as it's the whole assembly that contains the springs and mechanisms that work the doors and what not. I've taken the center console apart (had to remove the wood for re-finishing) and i can tell you, that it's a pain in the BUTT to do anything in there. It's crowded and one false move can result in springs flying off and everything becoming broken. And i'm pretty sure you can't remove the cupholder area without leaving a giant ugly hole... You can pull out the "divider" that separates the two cupholders, but that's about it. If you want, you can purchase a used console to experiment with first. But i wouldn't suggest tampering with the one in your car without having a spare. :whistles:

can you take a pic of the piece you're trying to remove? I can't tell which one you're talking about. :( I will know how if you can post a pic/diagram though. <_<

...what? Why would you change a fuse if it hasn't gone out? If you install the kit properly no fuses should trigger. And if they do, the car's telling you the kit is too much for the car to handle... (but i doubt this would ever happen).

DEFINITELY take it back to whoever installed it. If it's not in correctly i could affect the structural integrity of the car in an accident... They can peal back the trim and see if everything is OK or what is rubbing.

Yeah i agree... The problem hasn't come back so i guess it was just a little glitch. Very weird though...

Well, you might be able to keep those bulbs for the high beams as they're not used very often and not for long periods of time. And in DRL mode, they're only given half voltage which wont cause them to overheat.

Yeah, just buy another female 9006 plug with at least 4" of wiring attached. Then cut off the melted plug. So now you have 2 wires coming from the car and 2 wires from the new plug. Just match up the positive and negative ones, and solder them together, and wrap the solder joints with electrical tape (to avoid arcing). As long as you use the correct bulbs, any plug should work. You should be able to get new plugs from Lexus. And you don't have to touch your high beam connectors unless you replaced those bulbs. The high beam lights and lows are on separate circuits, so they won't affect each other... I think the melting issue will go away as soon as you put better bulbs in there. No harm done =)

Ught oh... Yeah, the touch up paint wont work as it's not the same density as automotive paint. It's designed to be a good insulator, and not designed to dry hard. It's also not meant to be buffed. Also, using a blow dryer will not work as it'll create tiny tiny bubbles in the paint (so small that you can't even see them) which will make the paint impossible to buff to shine. Under a scope it'll look like foam. You really need automotive paint, and need to apply a thin layer once a day until it's raised. And it REALLY needs to be air dried, as the unusual depth will "shrink". Always sand and buff at least a week after curing (i would suggest 2 with such a depth) to allow the paint to settle and reach the same density as the factory paint around it.

Well it's not really a specific "lexus" dye... Every Lexus dealer has connections with a leather specialist and calls them in whenever any of their cars (either being prepped for CPO or if a customer requests it) need leather work. The leather people know what they're doing... I had them re-finish some spots on the seats in my old Rx300, and it came out GREAT. It's definitely your best bet. It'll look brand new by the time they get done with it. <_<

The wiring harnesses for 9006 bulbs are all the same... just splice the wires and solder them together. <_< You can use any 9006 bulb that came factory on a car. I believe the OEM bulbs for the Rx's are Sylvania's, and it should be the same for the Highlander. There "are" aftermarket bulbs that will also work safely, there's just a select few. If you're going for more "blue" you can try GP Thunder bulbs, or if you're going for just a "tad" bit of blue with better brightness, you can try PIAA Plasma Blue or Intense White. Anything by PIAA, Philips or Sylvania will be your best bet as their quality is best.

Doesn't that screw go into plastic rather than metal? If so, I don't see how it could "freeze". It takes either a #1 or maybe an "0" screw driver, really small but normally those small screw drivers fit well into those small screws. I have never had ANY trouble getting the screw out of those. Are you SURE you have the right size screw driver? Nope, goes through metal (the key shaft). The screws can become very rusty, even if kept away from water. I've taken apart a lot of these keys and believe me, it's a common issue. If/when you get the screw out, you'll notice the orange rust on the screw... <_<