drmull

My 2014 ES had a slight creak at the back edge of the driver's door. Just enough to drive me crazy. I tried the Sonus cure and it worked immediately.

cduluk - Thanks again. The high beams are HiPro bulbs. I'll just replace all of them with "white" Sylvanias or Hellas.

Thanks for the responses! So make sure I have this right... Get a couple of 9006 harnesses (presumably the ones available are to allow for higher wattage bulbs - not that I'm going to use them), cut off the end opposite the connector and splice the wires to what I have left, correct? Also, should I do the same for the 9005 hi-beams I have installed? No problems with them, but I'm guessing you shouldn't mix different types of bulbs on the same system?

Thanks for the info. I wonder why just that location had the problem twice?? Oh, well. The dealer has the connector but not the little aluminum clip that inserts into the connector and holds the wire. I guess I'll be searching junkyards...unless it's something generic I can get at an auto parts store?? Could be a bit of a pain to fix. Any ideas about that piece?? Thanks again. BTW - Who manufactures the OEM bulb for Lexus?? Could I use a Toyota bulb for the Highlander? I have a friend at a Toyota dealer.

Hello - Had a low beam bulb go out so I replaced both. The driver's side bulb went out again, so I jiggled the connector & the light came back on. It went out again a few days later. When I pulled the bulb off, the inside of the plastic connector was melted and one of the aluminum leads inside the connector (the one at the end of the white wire) was charred. I bought a new connector from Lexus & tried again with a new bulb. Same result - see pic. The red wire and connector look normal. Any ideas why this is happening? Thanks for any help. I really don't want to replace the entire wiring harness...is there a short somewhere? The other bulbs (hi & lo beam) are fine. BTW - The bulbs are the HiPros off Ebay - 9006 5900k.

One of my low beam headlights started going out every now & then. When I pulled the bulb off, the inside of the connector was almost melted away and charred. Part of it is now welded around the bulb's connector posts. Not good. Is the connector itself (the part at the end of the wiring) hard to come by?? Will I be able to install it myself, i.e. connecting the wires, or do I have to get a whole new harness/connector "assembly?? Thanks for any help/experience.

It could be what mine turned out to be...the transmission pump next to the torque converter. It's being starved for fluid. I was ready for a tranny rebuild and decided to change the fluid and clean the transmission filter first. Since there were only "normal" specks of metal on the magnets in the pan I knew the tranny was not tearing itself up...yet. After cleaning the filter the whining completely went away...for now. Who knows - but I would suggest a fluid change and filter swap right away. My tranny was also behaving normally.

I have a '99 with 190k miles. Started hearing a whining/buzzing sound a few days ago. Worse when cold, still there a little when warm. My mechanic gave a listen and said unfortunately it sounds like the TC is beginning to fail. He put a stethoscope to the bell housing. No problems with shifting or slipping...yet. Can the TC be replaced without replacing the entire tranny? What's the typical cost? Also, will an additive help at all? I'm really bummed as this expense would be a big deal for me right now. Could it theoretically still work okay like this for quite a while? In other words, is this a catastrophic failure thing or does it just get worse over time until it becomes undrivable? Thanks for any help/experiences. Update: No replies so I don't know if I can replace just the TC, but I found this one online. Looks like a good company?? Don't know the price yet.Torque converter for U140E transmission

Hello - The servo behind the glove compartment that controls the doors when you change the A/C mode sounds like a bunch of rats/squirrels. It did this a couple of years ago so I removed it and cleaned the contacts inside the servo. That fixed it but now the noise is back. Does anyone have a clue as to the part number for the servo?? Again, it is the one that controls the doors when you press the Mode button. I learned how to remove/clean it from this forum but I don't have faith it will work a second time... It was one of the harder DIY things I've ever done on the RX. Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. Exactly which Toyota pads should I buy for my '99? Are they Highlander pads??

Hello - I need to do front & rear pads on my '99. What brand of pad should I look for (I'm assuming ceramic) and what is a good online source for them? I'm sure somebody out there has bought some! Are there equivalent Toyota OEM parts? Thanks!

Hello - Still chasing code P1155 in my '99. There seems to be great disagreement over exactly which sensor this refers to. When you look at the various internet lists, something looks strange. Here's an example: P1130 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P1133 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P1135 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P1150 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P1153 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P1155 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) This list is duplicated all over the net. There SHOULD be three codes for B1S1 and the same three for B2S1. Common sense says the list is wrong and P1155 has to be for B2S1 (the sensor up front). Does anybody agree with this logic?? I'd like to know what you think before I start trying to remove the front sensor! If these code lists are correct, there is no code for a heater malfunction in B2S1 - that can't be right. Thanks! Sorry about the bogus spelling in the topic - I can't type. UPDATE - I found this pdf somewhere. Seems to support the theory. cip1155.pdf

Thanks for the reply - It seems, from what I can find, that the P0125 code is being thrown because of a bad A/F sensor. Since I've gotten 1155 & 1150 (pending) I have no idea which sensor is really the troublemaker. I've got no way to test the sensors, so it looks like I'll have to pay to have them checked...bummer. Good news - there's a Lexus shop that's cheaper than a dealer. Bad news - it's about 50 miles away. I have to say (venting here) that the RX300 has begun to have too many gremlins IMO. Knock sensors went bad...replaced & then the OEM replacements were bad. Three of the coil packs have failed. I disconnected the sensor to the brake fluid reservoir because it failed and shows low fluid. The servo for the A/C mode has gone nuts. Lots of failed bulbs, etc. In contrast, my '93 Acura Legend is running strong without any failures of any kind. No CEL, all the original stuff works...I'm just sayin"! I do love driving the Lexus, though.

Hello - My '99's CEL came on the other day. My wife drove it for a while before I could read the codes. It showed P0125 & P1155 with a few pending (P0171,P1150,P1153,P1155). I cleared them and drove the car myself. Took about 3 miles before the CEL came on again. I stopped & checked the codes - P0125 & P1150 (pending) - nothing else. So...am I correct that this shows P0125 as the "real" problem? I was told the first code thrown is most genuine - that proved true on the 3 coil packs I've replaced! What do you guys (and girls) think I should look for first? I'll check the coolant level but where is the coolant temp sensor (I read that's what P0125 could be). Would P0125 & P1150 together point to an A/F sensor instead? I just want to fix the right thing & my wife has to drive the car out of town in a few days - she's on me to "fix it" before then... Thanks very much for any help. I've been poking around while waiting for a reply (hopefully). I see 1150 is B2S1 & 1155 is B1S1. I also read that the P1025 could be a false code caused by a bad sensor. Any truth to that?? How in the world will I know which sensor is the real problem?? Confusing...

Never mind. It's the brake fluid level sensor. I unplugged it and no more warnings.