lx470tuner

Just a guess, but it definitely seems like an electrical issue. Cannot say for sure what but please keep me post. My friend has the same issue on his volvo (minus the mirror turning). Thanks -Dave

Assuming that the 4WD lock is actually working, the problem seems to be with the electronics. Indicators on the dashboard works with a sensor, and every sensor passes the ECU. Simpliest thing to do is to "reset" the computer (and sensors) which is to disconnect the battery. There are several self-checks that occur when the system gets disconnected by the power source and suspension is one of them. Take the negative side off first than the positive, leave it alone for awhile, and reconnect again in the reversive order. If the problem continues to occur, I'd consult the local technician. Good luck. -Dave

Hey guys! GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD NEWS! but before I get into the actual news, I'd like to thank everyone who have taken the time to read this and send out an email to request the build for the NAVI bypass for our cars. So, the good news is that they have responded, just as they said they would! Great jobs guys once again. Below is the actual email they've sent out in response, > Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 16:48:38 -0700 > From: info@prestigioussociety.com > To: lx470tuner@hotmail.com > Subject: LX470 Navigation/DVD Override Module > > Hi everyone, > > We would like to let you know that we have built an application for the > 2004 to 2007 LX470. We have tested the kit with our computer simulator > and the results were just we expected. We are now looking for a vehicle > that we can install the module and would like to know if anyone of you > are located in Southern California. For our test target, a special > price for the kit will be offered. > > If you are interested, please let us know at your earliest convenience. > Thank you very much for your time. > > Sincerely yours, > > Mark So as you can see they just need to do an actual test on a vehicle before it is released to the market! We are so close to getting this lockout out of our systems. I volunteered my vehicle but since I'm located in the east coast I am unable to help. If anyone is interested in assisting in the test and are located in Southern California, please please do so (Contact email:info@prestigioussociety.com). You will have this lockout as a discounted price so there is a good advantage here for you as well. Thanks everyone and I hope this product can hits the market REAL SOON! -Dave

Hi guys, this is Dave. I have come across a tuner company that produces plug and play module that by-passes, not only the video component, but the entire navigation lockout when the vehicle is in motion. This means that with this module we can finally input address, search phone book, etc. while on the move. Testimonials seem very promising and I for one highly praise this module. And all of this is achieved WITHOUT punching in sequencial code (up left screen - up right screen - etc etc.) everytime the car is started. Basically, once installed, its get in, start the car and have all the freedom of your navigation system on the go. Here is the bad news. While they make this module for most toyota and lexus vehicles, there currently isn't a module for the LX470. However, they have a module for the landcruiser (even up to the year 07). I've called for compatibility for the use of the landcruiser module on the Lx470 and they've told me that IT IS NOT COMPATIBLE. However, they have informed me that with enough inquires it will be easy for their R&D to produce a module for us LX470 owners. So I'm requesting that everyone who is interested in getting rid of this ridiculous lockout feature on our cars to please visit their webpage and submit (or directly send them an email) to request production of a module compatible for the LX470. I've talked to a sale's representative and he has told me that if we can create justification for R&D (show them they have a market) they will make one for sure. So let's get on it guys! Here is their website: http://www.prestigioussociety.com/index.html -Dave

It sounds like your ahc pump is having some issues. Keep in mind that your pump motor can still run (so the fault can go undetected) but the pump can fail to move the fluids. Number of reasons cause this issue, inlcuding air creap past the shaft seal into the pump, damages pressure valve and nitrogen depletion (that last one is not likely since you mentioned that your accumulators are fine). The best way to diagnose if this is true is to manually operate the ahc pump and see if fluids are moving. If this is the case, the best solution is replace the pump sub assembly. Don't forget to bleed the system after the replacement :D -Dave

I know a guy who put a screen into his 00 Landcruiser. I don't see why your idea wouldn't work. However, no guarantees :P Keep us posted. I'm actually curious about this one. Thanks. -Dave

My truck does this as well. It turns out, over time, the car has a way of settling on an angle. This doesn't necessarily mean that there is anything wrong. The sensors and accumulators resets everytime you start the car. If the car is running and the car still sits at an angle (assuming your parked on a flat level road) then there is something wrong. But if it only does it when the car is off, no problems. -Dave

It sounds like the problem is with your torque convertor and what is commonly known as TCC (Torque convertor clutch) shudder. The main reasoning behind this diagnose is the fact that you mentioned that it comes on only during applied power. There are two direction in which this problem can lead to and it relates to when (time) the shudder is occuring. If the shudder is occuring during the engagement of TCC then you may have an actual problem with your TCC. If this is the case, the problem is mostly caused by some issue that won't allow the clutch to fully engage or release. In a bit rarer case the issue can be caused because the clutch is attempting to engage and release at the same time, causing hesitation (shudder). All in all, if you find yourself in this predicament, your issue might be turbine seal leakage, misalignment in converter bolt causing surfaces to slip or the actual frictional material has been degraded. The easiest solution here it to just replace your TCC. Also another things you should check for is the pump and the filter. It may be that the pump isn't running effective enough causing the clutch to slip or it may be the filter just isn't filtering properly letting loose debris bypass causing engagement issues. However, if the TCC shudder is occuring after engagement you're in luck! TCC in this case is rarely the problem and chances are your TCC is perfectly fine. The problem in this case is else where. Two most common part that cause this issue is the spark plug and plug wires. Replacing the spark plugs is easy and relatively cost effective (you should replace them anyway just for maintainence sake). As for the plug wires, look for discoloration such as blackened regieon or sometime reddened regieons. These are the signs for contamination from such things as carbon. Also look for white discoloration. This is the sign or arcing. The solution is to replace the plug wire. However, the problem you have might not have anything to do with what I've mentioned, or perhaps it does but the issue is not of the ones I've listed. I hope it does help a bit though. Best of luck. -Dave

I honestly think a bad speaker or two does not justify getting rid of a truck of this caliber. My guess is that the previous speakers were blown for some reason and the guy replaced it with something cheap. The standard mark levinson stereo system uses an amp with 240W continuous ave power with 1% THD+N at 20KHz with distortion frequency range from (20-20000Hz). That is to say that the power rating (assuming sinusoidal load) is puching out a resistence equal to Volt(peak)^2/(2*Volt(RMS)*Current(RMS)). This gives you an idea of how much power per speaker (11 in Lx470 but sub takes in a bit more so about 10-sub power) must take. All in all this system is comparable to some of the best home stereo systems. Cheap speakers will not be able to handle this setup(at least not for long). My advice is to replace the speaker with appropriate quality speakers. Expensive cars require expensive parts unfortunately.

This reply might be a bit too late but better late than never. From what I'm hearing, the corrosion warrenty you are telling me sounds believable. Most automaker's corrosion warrenty really only extends to factory errors only. That includes things such as defective paint, corrosion penatration due to misfittment, and if lexus personel has damaged your vehicle. Other than that corrosion due to road salt, exposure of metal resulting from things such things as rock chip and scratches, flooding, etc. are classified as either operator error or wear tear and Lexus does not hold themselves accounable. Which makes sense (they can't guarantee a car that doesn't corrode under every circumstances). On a side note, I too live in an area where I experience heavy doses of road salt and paint chippers. Here are three main things that I do to make sure my car doesn't succum to premature corrosion. 1. Wash your car frequently, escpecially during those winter days (Or after offroading). Make sure you don't just spray water over your car as that really won't do anything (Just sparying water can actually accelerate corrsion). The main focus is to properly clean the undercarriage making sure the salt and other corrosive material is actually off of your vehicle. 2. After washing your car, always check for new chips and scratches. Unless you have completely sealed your vehicle with 3M clear film or just don't drive your car at all, we all have to face the fact that the paints on our cars are going to get damaged. Catching the metal exposure early and properly sealing them with touch up makes a tremendous difference and can mean the prevention of a repair cost in the soild four digit area. 3. DO NOT leave your vehicle idling on one spot. Leaving a vehicle idling (even for a warm up) causes condensations (due to collection of heat) in the undercarrage causing the exhaust system to quickly corrode. Also idling your vehicle forces the engine to run under an un-idle temperature causing the incomplete fuel combustion. This can lead to condensation within the cylinder walls, premature oil contamination, and residue collection on the spark plugs. Lastly, it has been numerously proven that idling causes significant lose of fuel consumption. Heck I even go as far to turn my engine off at railroad crossing and fast food drive thru. After turning your engine on, you should only wait couple of seconds to allow the engine to settle then begin moving. Warm up your car AS YOU DRIVE by keeping to lower RPM and avoiding WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and not standing still. Back to point. Your $950 bill is a little on the high side compared to what I usually pay but it certainly is probable. Heck I remember paying something like that around my 50000 mile sevice interval.

Had the Michelin LTX, Cross Terrain, and now I have the Latitude. Unfortunately I can't make a fair judgement with Cross Terrains since I only had them for 500miles or so until they were replaced due to a blow out. However, there is a significant improvement on the Latitude vs. the LTX. Mind you, the LTX were a great set IMHO, but the Latitude is bit smoother and more quieter. Ride Comfort is on-par with what I come to expect from Michelin and handling is noticibly better with the Latitude vs. LTX (especially in moderate to heavy snow). One thing that dissappointed me was that I do a fair amount of light off-roading and the LTX were better in rougher terrain. But, if you stick to paved roads the Latitude will have nothing but improvements.

Sounds very familiar to my friend's Volvo. His car would rev 1000rpm-ish from idle before the car would begin to move from stand still. Turns out his transmission was getting on and was slipping. Due to $$$ factor involved in transmission replacement, he decided to just ride the car as is until it dies (He still drives it after 50000 miles have past since we discovered the issue). Hope this isn't the your problem but something to check out.

Out of curiousity, are we sure this is actually a problem? I have 2007 LX470 and it does this too. So does my 07 Audi A4 as well as my my mother's 08 SLK350 and my sister's 04 camry. None of the cars ride rough or out of sync. It tracks straight and aligns well. Please keep updates posted as I'm very intested in why this is so. If this is a problem we have a lot of cars that are in trouble haha. -Dave

I've battled with interior noise with this car for awhile. I still can't believe that a car like this suffers from all the creaks and squeaks but what'd you gonna do. Here are the problems I had and the fixes, hope some of them helps. 1. Clicking noise around center console- Turned out to be the cd changer magazine in the center compartment that was rattling. I had the part replaced and the noise stopped. 2. Rattling noise from the front passenger area- There is a plastic cover that houses the bottom of the front passenger side seat belt assembly at the floor. This area is likely to get kicked by your rear passenger and the cover loosens. Make sure it is on tightly. If the noise persists (as did mine) put some padding at the gaps. This stopped mine. 3. Rattling noise from dashboard- It was the lock assembly in my glove compartment. The recieveing end is NOT adjustable. The tolerance around the lock assembly causes the glove compartment shake and create noise. Put some padding where the compartment door meets the actual compartment and it'll fix the problem. 4. Noise from the rear second row seats- This is the most annoying noise issue thus far. This is cause by the leather rubbing each other. Lubrications such as leather care products temporarily solves the issue. Otherwise you'd have to fold one of the second row seat and leave the other seating up to avoid contact and thus killing the noise. 5. Small thump-like (sticking) noise around the doors- This can happen on any of your doors (my rear passenger side door did this). This was caused by the rubber seals around the door. Go to any local auto shop and purchase liquid silicon. Spray it on the door seal and it'll seal nice and tight, eliminating the issue. 6. Clicking noise around the door- This was my driver side rear door. The interior door panel was loose. A clip was replaced and it solved the issue. 7. Tapping noise around center console- Check the cup holders for the rear passengers. My rear cup holder assembly was causing the tapping/clicking noise and was fixed after it was replaced. I believe that would be all of the major ones that had been found and cured on my car. I still have one or two noises in my car but I equally noticed that turning the volume knob solves them . I still can't believe a car like this can have so much noise issue. Hope some of this helps.

I'm assuming you are saying that you want to change the visual nature of your navigation system. Unfortunately, if you have a certain generation of navigation, it seems you are stuck with that graphics that comes with that particular generation. No amount of disc upgrade will change how the screen displays the graphics. The discs merely updates the data. I figured this out the hard way and highly recommend that you not upgrade if all you are looking for is the graphics change. On a more complicated thought, in all techicality, you would be able to change the graphics if you swap the entire navigation unit from say gen 4 to gen 5. However, you'd obviously be getting into major fitment issues.

Thank you all for the help :( Anyways, I went ahead and bought a 8.1v and I'm going to go ahead and reply all of the above quesitons myself for those of you that might have had the same questions. 1. No visual upgrades or changes what so ever. 2. "I agree" button still appears initially and does not go away on its own. 3. No changes in bluetooth functionality what so ever. 4. No improvements in voice recognition technology what so ever. P.S. The "secret" override sequence menu does not exist on the 8.1v Gen 4.

Glad to see that the problem isn't just on my car. I have a 07 Lx470 and this is a problem that had existed from when the car was new. Since then I have changed tires, got the dealership to perform multiples of balances and alignments, and had the car road force balanced. Initially, the steering shook around 30mph and on. That speed was raised to 50mph after the tires were replaced (originally Dunlops had cupping). Finally it is now at 70mph+ after the road force balance. I frequently use this car to travel interstate and thus spend quite of bit of time at speeds exceeding 70mph. Very very annoying to have to sit there for hours holding on to a shaking steering wheel. I did notice something though, the shaking is improved when the suspension is in sport mode (you'd be sacrificing ride quality for better steering wheel control). That kinda makes me think that this problem has something to do with the characteristics of the suspensions (and worse yet, perhaps impossible to fix)?

Hey all, my name is Dave and I'm new to this forum. I just purchased a 2007 Lexus LX470 and lovin it (except the navi). Just thought I'd say hello (and ask few questions ). As implied earlier, I do not like the navigation on this car. Coming from a Audi MMI-Gen II system (not trying to flame lexus product here) I find the lexus interface way too restricting. So I'm trying to see how many of these little annoyances I can solve. So my first thought is to update the software to 8.1v. So here are my dumb newbie questions: 1. I like the visual layout of the newer lexus navigation better (I think it's the gen5). The one with more clear and sharper visuals that has black (I think) background. Does updating to 8.1v for Gen4 in any way change the visual nature of the navigation or does it still look like the way it is (with the green background and all)? 2. Can anyone confirm once and for all rather the "I agree" button acutally goes away like it is rumored to on the 8.1v? or is it just a rumor? 3. For the love of God, is there any way to use the bluetooth phone function while the vehicle is in motion? The navigation only lets me call the people I pre-set in the 1-touch function. I want to be able to dial in motion without actually reaching for the phone (just incase you're wondering why I'm seeming being so lazy about picking up the actual phone when it seem like such a tidious task, I live in an area where use of cell phone in a vehicle in any way is illegal. Got pulled over because I was holding it in my hand once). 4. Does the 8.1v improve and/or expand the voice command recognition technology? The car can't understand me unless I'm yelling at it if I try to speak to it while in motion (usually over 60mph+). I wish I can tell it to do more things (like dial numbers or call so-and-so). Thanks all in advance.

I agree with Hyundai being a little off. I think it's because Hyundai is never fresh. The Genesis looks like a frankenstein to me. It has the MB front, infiniti M rear, the lincoln slope/side lines and all that is packages to emulate lexus ideal such as supple, quiet ride. Only thing "Hyundai" about the Genesis is cheap factor. Everything else is just copied from everyone else. Hyundai needs to wake up and realize that until they being out something unique about "Hyundai" badge other than being cheap, people will always think of Hyundai as cheap and not anything else.