andrecat112

if you have CAI, is it necessary to have a air/fuel computer such as AEM?

STOP THE PRESS.....HOLD THE MAYO i didnt get the valve clearence check, because the technicians said it would cost me $350 not including labor or parts (new gaskets) and take about 5 hours. being that i dont have that much to throw down, ill have to wait on that.

Your owners manual says the valve clearance should be checked at 60,000 miles. You can skip this service if: - you don't care about maintaining optimum engine power, smoothness, quietness and fuel economy - you don't care about achieving maximum engine life. ← motion carried to have it done....im definently having it done

during initial start up i hear it as the car is idling, but im not sure if its continuous with acceleration. any idea on the price of getting it checked and adjusted? (im taking it to a toyota dealership tomorrow)

my car has reached 70,000 miles and ive never had the valve clearence checked nor adjusted? should i have this done?

ive heard mixed reviews about Tokico shocks - good tight cornering but rough road feel, like you feel every bump on the road also being that im replacing the shocks, would it be advised to also look for new springs?

i recently replaced my front struts with OEM struts, but i held back in doing the rears because they ran ~$160 each, which i def dont have being a college student. my question is, are there any aftermarket brands that will give the same ride quality and or better performance as stock OEM? ive been looking at the monroe sensa trac for ~$66, any opinions?

no the shop wasnt in christiansburg, it was just outside of the university (close to the local walmart)

(im not sure if this is the correct place for this topic, if not, im sorry) after hearing much about motorvacs and how much it helps improve engine performance by cleaning out carbon deposits and increasing overall functionabilty of the engine, i decided to get one. going to school out here in radford, va i wasnt even sure if i could find a shop that would do it. luckily i found a small garage down the street that had the machine to do it, and for a reasonable price - $68. so i made an appointment last week to have it done this morning. now mind you i was really excited to get it done, and feel the difference. :D so i go down to the shop right on time, maybe even a little early because i was soo eagerd. so i pull into the lot of the shop and notice lots and lots of yellow tape on the ground and less cars parked in the lot than usual almost like no business was going on. not paying attention to it i stepped out the car to walk through the doors and hand my keys in. funny thing was the main entrance was boarded up. thinking that it was just some renovating going on i looked around and noticed that the roof was gone. stepping back even further, i finally understood why everything look so dead.......the BURNED DOWN! after laughing histerically and realizing the lost chances of getting a motorvac, i suckered punched myself for getting my hopes up. :cries: just my luck.

i have a 98 and been having the same problems in the cold weather. should there be any precautions taken when you know the temps drop below zero besides letting the engine warm up. (add extra oil before start ups, lessen tire pressure for extra traction in the snow?) we've also been fortunate to have icing on the roads, i normally drive with the trac on but i still have bad slipping, no better if i had if off. is it suppose to make a clicking sounds when you have the trac on and you begin to slip? does it do any harm to the engine or the specific component that controls the trac?

how necessary is it to replace the cam seal and crank seal? if i dont replace them will there be most likely leaks?

being out here in BFE, kinda limits my resources, im just glad they were able to fix it. i actually i bought a whole new set of spark plugs from ebay (NGK iridiums) a month ago and i took them home back to the beach last break, because i was hoping to do a complete tune up this weekend when i got back home. just my luck eh?

just took my car to the local mechanics and they did a diagnose of the engine and found that cylinder #5 was misfiring. they pulled out the spark plug and found that the porcelin was cracked and there was debris trapped between the gap of the two prongs. so they just replaced the one spark plug. now im running with 5 denso and one bosch spark plug

this morning when i went to go warm my car up i noticed that the car was shaking during idle more than usual, sputtering you may even say. i thought that maybe it was just having trouble warming up (the temps dropped down into the teens overnight). so i tried again around noon and it still was idling rough, i looked under the hood and i could see the engine actually wobble, i could also hear the air intake struggling to take in air. furthermore i went around back to check the tailpipe and it smelled like firecracker smoke, along with the sputtering sound. the day before it was running fine, last time i used it was 11pm last night. im thinking maybe water condensation in the fuel system? or timing belt gone bad? i did smell some type of burning rubber in the cabin. any ideas? thanks in advance.

could it be that it has a spoiler?

about how many miles should you wait to change the diff fluid? is diff fluid the same as tranny atf fluid? same stuff thats in a dexron III bottle?

whew thanks for clearing that one, now im gonna buy the correct number of plugs.

are you sure? maybe 6 plugs but when i ordered my magnecor wire set it only came with 3 wires which replaced the 3 oem wires. am i wrong and just seeing things?

do the 98 es300 need only 3 spark plugs?

how do those koni struts work for you? and where did you get them?

has anyone ever heard of Bilstein making left/right front struts?

how and where does a breather filter fit into the picture?

yeah i ran into the same confusion when i was looking for wires for my 98; i had bought a set of MSD wires for a V6 toyota engine i.e Camry(came with 6 wires), then my mechanic told me why they werent compatible..(wish i remembered what he had told me) but in the end i ended up returning the MSD ones for a little more expensive MAGNECOR wires. By the way: ive only seen two companies who sell wires for the es300 MAGNECOR http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm and VITEK http://www.vitekperformance.com/

is there some kind of spray lubricant or something of some sort to apply to the rotors that will quiet them a little?

what kind of pads did you put on your car? i ended putting brendix brake pads from advanced auto because i didnt want to pay an arm and leg for the lexus parts. now my brakes squeal like a biotch, im still trying to figure out how to dampen the squeaks. i should have gone with oem parts.