mburnickas

I agree. Two different things.

Too bad you are comparing Dexcool to normal EG coolant. You are kidding me right? They are not even the same and I did not click on your link either ( I can't).....Again if YOU look around there are several manfactures that have the OAT and conform to these standards. Toyota is nothing special as I have stated for years. You and I have gone around and around this. Using there fluid will gain you nothing unless you are comparing it to water or prestone (yellow bottle)...Outside of those, you are fine.. Maybe spend sometime looking them up...

I still can't find what is so special about it... I love that cavitation part. So far since driving, the only autos concerned with cavitation were wet sleeves on diesels. In auto it is not an issue. So far the materials that make it up are nothing new and the spec's it meets the same ones I have states since being on this forum.. :)

For some this info is great; but, I will take a real synthetic oil (group 4 or 5), extend my current drains of about 12,000 miles and continue to test my oil to see what is the correct oil intervals via oil condition and wear numbers.

Monarch I am not going through this yet another time. The manufacture states you can use more then there coolant. I for one think there coolant is a rip-off. I have used diesel coolant for years and my rads are MINT inside. My thermo looks brand new along with the cap and fins that I can see with hoses off. Sometimes information is more powerful then some picture with works someone types on it. Again I use these coolant for over 15 years in my engines. Never had a coolant issue yet. I use diesel since it is low (and some none) silcicates, most have OAT in there coolant (toyota uses odium benzoate as there OAT), no borates and has Phosphates. There are many coolant that perform to these Japanese spec's; just need to look. Unless some moron use pestone (yellow bottle) they will never have an issue with other coolants.

It depends some cars this is normal, some it is not. If you are going to inspect the valve you would be stupid to NOT adjust them. Sometimes using a different oil filter will help. Sometimes a diff oil. Sometimes it might need a vlave job; depends on miles/age etc.

Do a search on this but I asked Lexus on this very topic and you also have the same year as me. In the end, Lexus stated you can use any EG coolant. Again that is per Lexus. No memeber interaction or anything. Per the manufacture Been using non-Toyota coolant for 4+ years. No "overheating" or head gasket issues and it is mint on the fins, cap etc. Anyone who states this is incorrect information for these years. Toyota coolant is nothing special. Many coolant (if you look) have the OAT in it. PS. Welcome to the club.

Hmm, who brought up your age or what you do; they really have nothing to do with it. I jsut know what I have seen since the late 2000 time frame...Most people have illegal hids. We, or at least me have looked into HIDS for about 6 years and most HID are illegal since people do not know the rules or care about blinding other drivers (safety). I have a 98 ES and unless I do a retro (ballast, HID projectors) there is no way they wil be legal, look correct (cut-off, glare etc) and not blind people. Plus it is not worth it. I would think about it unless you are going to keep an older ES (almost 14 years) for more years to come. Or put it this way, you will not get your money back. I would do a search since this has come up many times; or go over to HIDplanet since they guys know there stuff, big time.

THANK YOU! I hate when this little punks put plug-play HIDS in there halogen housings and blind people. Most people do it incorrectly and BLIND people. The only HIDS that are legal are factory or retro's. out side of that, read the laws. God, I love your posts.

Yes, been around for years. A little over priced in my book but that is me. Plus it would not call it the best. The only plus is high, real high amounts of moly. But on the flip side moly, well, sucks for doing long(er) drains. They are several cons to it too. You would need to do some UOA and see. Calcium is below 2600 ppm last time I looked and Zddp are inline with lower Group 4 oils (cheaper price too) TBN is again inline with other oils. There VI levels are nothing high along with a average pour point. HTHS is again average at best; in the 3's. For the price they want for it, they can keep it. I have a GSXR does not use it and never will either. That is my slanted view on it.

I would ty to tighen the bolts about 1/8 turn. But I do agree that RTV is better then cork; but, I know my 98 trans gasket (OEM) is rubber. Plus the seal is only replaced every 5 to 6 years for me.

Can you elaborate on that Mike? I'm not really considering it for the benefit of freeze protection. Have you used it? No I know many bike owner that have. Did nothing in fact. Same with Engine Ice. But Engine Ice has some good things like it will not harm animals. I know some people that have used this: http://www.kwickkool.com

about 1.5 years old but still funny.

No freeze protection in water wetter.

No, no dipstick but I am sure you can do a DYI mod and make your own. So far it works great for brake fluid flush and bleed & PS fluid removal. I would also assume if would great for gas or diesel removal (if needed) or any fluid removal. It should also do great for DIFF or transfrer case fluid removal. as someone noted, it is manual and that is what I wanted. I have a 130 PSI 6 HP air comp but I did not want to use it; more work then needed I feel.

they are also a good site. Order my plugs and some other things there. Quick shipping too. Here is a real dumb one. How do you know if your car is a Calif car or not?

I just ordered mine from oxygensensors.com $95 install myself. Universal sensor was $45 0r $50. This is the best site that I have found. Good prices, fast service. Best of all the site lets you cross-reference theOEM part number it replaces. Speedyperformance.com's site is confusing and they sent me the wrong part, then they tried to charge me a $24 restocking fee on top of $118 sensor. They said the sensor I needed was backordered and would take 2 weeks. Or I could buy their Denso sensor for $160! I agree that site looks pretty good. What brand sensor did you buy for $95?

this is what I posted on. The unit holds over one gallon..cheaper too. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=22691&hl=

Not pocking fun but our state, MA, had some clown doing the samething last summer. About 12 cars go hit and the fed, state and local LEO could not find anyone. Figure that out.

I agree and the lack of certain actions show just that...

I agree with SK but for me personally, since I can’t speak for others, I posted it just to state something new on Toyota's part or them being behind the 8-ball by light years here (nothing new); but them coming online somewhat. Then someone posted (cut/paste) info on what a certain manufacture recommendations without going or doing anything further to verify that this nothing more just a PR statement. IS this what they have experienced or just basically forwarded what some else stated and nothing to support this? Maybe he is right IF he had some real-world data to support his cutting and pasting, maybe. I only have something (oil testing, understanding of basestocks, adds, etc) or better knowledge through empirical data. It is not a black and white answers but as least gives people an idea on the how, whats etc. There is no useless “club” pictures from 1987, no pictures of dashes boards, no screen captures from other old-school cars, nothing. It is called what I have learned throughout my years, only 13 of doing my own oil testing (on my equip) and learning on using various fluids. Unless this info he cut/pastes form Lexus or Toyota is what he has encountered, this person really has no awareness of the subject at hand. I can say this based on observations here and other forums. It is very comical [in general] that people [in general] that stick their noises in this really have no idea on oils or even test their fluids (notice I did not say oil). You are lucky if a dozen people here even test oils but you have many commenting on what they think . Is it a personal attack, no & very far from it. It is calling them to the plate (time and time again; I think 3+ years here) in a professional manner. I have given this member plenty of opportunities to PM me on ANYTHING on fluids, but never has even contacted me. It is funny how I am not the first to call this member out (on other sites; non lexus too) on oil issues (or using OEM toyota parts) when the others have much more background then cutting and pasting here… Even Honda now states 10,000 on dino in their manuals and we have members here whining about 7,500 miles or think my 12,000 miles is nuts on a group 4/5 oil. Time to step-up to the 2006 level here people. Intelligent extended oil drains using a real synthetic are not for the cheap and un-educated. I do think it is highly amusing that any oil thread (even NON-brand specific) gets certain individuals all worked up. If you do not like the thread at hand, move along. If you want to post something, at least post something the user (you) have achieved or experienced not thinks or a cut/pastes from a manual here. If I want cut/paste I will talk to a salesperson or service person that knows nothing and gets the same output. Again the poster on this thread, me, was to be an informative thread or FYI if nothing more. If you want to close it due to select member(s) that is fine with me; could careless either way. I will not be upset or are upset now as I type this! :D Just wonder at times….

My dealer (about 35 mins from me) want's like $17 a qt! (I'm doing some other stuff to the car as well) And the online folks want to clean up on the shipping & handling charges. :( Amsoil would have been my first choice, but a little tight with $$$ for the time being. Wow, that is off the scale. You can't buy it right form Amsoil? Also is odd, is that Canada prices went DOWN 5% as of Feb 1, unlike the USA.

I wanted something better than conventional when the time comes to change the diffs of our Subi Forester, & I have had good luck in the past with Castrol products (and the price was very reasonable).......I gave serious consideration to Amsoil & Motul & Red Line gear oils......but they were astronomical in price & very difficult to find in my neck of the woods. Castrol it is.... B) Thanks for the replies. Amsoil severe is like $8.50 I think dealer. Online buying is the only way to go! :) More money but at 100,000 mile drains. I am still old school, I liked there old Series 2000 fluid...cool blue! I have that in my Kubota tractor. 4 years and still going.

yes that is the stick. Also brown and burnt smelling fluid is not a good sign...

Christ Another oil thread. Just what these boards need, GEEEEEZZZZZZ !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it is not brand specific here. It is news from Toyota. Nothing more nothing less. It is more funny to see Toyota jumping on board.