mburnickas

No lawn guy but I like doing it. Everyone thinks I should do it on the side. Problem is no time and the stuff is not cheap. I do inground sprinkler too. Here are some before and after pix. Looks ok but it needs iron..(back in spring) Just done cutting Before Two years later. If anything use Dimension. Price is a little much (2.5 gallons: $390 but) it is great for weeds and has some post emg in it. To find out that you can and cannot buy; http://npic.orst.edu/state1.htm If it is restricted it will have a Yes by it.

Lesco has it. I got 5 gallons of it (cheap: about $65). You can make your grass so darn green (almost black). I use over the max per qt/ft. I use about 12 oz per 1,000 feet. Green up in about 1 week. If you want instant green use Green lawnger. That is what golf places use (and sport events). :) Oh, if you re-seed and have major weed problems try Drive 75 DF. I might be restricted in your state (so check). 1 lb is a about $130 but works great for re-seeding or overseeding. For Weed/Feed by far best granular is Momentum FX2. Works great for 99% of the weeds. Gets rid of clover too! If you like to spray (like me) try Momentum (post), Confront (post), Dimension (pre/post killer for weeds and POA), Pre-M (pre), Gallery (pre) etc. I like lawn stuff just as much as car stuff. Wife thinks I lost my peanut with the lawn stuff. The spray is more $$$ but lasts longer. I made my lawn for crap to the best one around.

Maybe your lawn wants some "soft water" too! LOL Try some Chelated Iron on the lawn .....stuff is great! Green for months.

True. We got a new HD 5 miles from my house. Too bad I needed it 6 years ago when I was remodeling.....only me. But true. already complete is the way to go if you do not have time, HD around or just do not want to do it.

fittings are at HD (home depot) standard MPT fittings.

I have the dyson and a Central Vac. The dyson picks up more in 1 time then the central does in 1 week. It is well worth the money. I use the vac everyday since my son likes to watch it. I can fill the tube in 3 days.

Fittings are at HD for like $1.50 each. Hsg: http://www.reefgeek.com/products/categorie...ers/102935.html (for clear: 13.95) http://www.reefgeek.com/products/categorie...ers/102934.html (for white: 11.95) Filters: www.purelyh2o.com www.thefilterguys.biz www.spectrapure.com www.buckeyefieldsupply.com www.airwaterice.com Just trying to "maximize your funds" ")

I think $55 for $16 for parts (1-hsg and 2-fittings) is expensive. So yes it is high. I think it is nuts but that is me. It is like my RO membrane for my reef tank. They are $90 in most places. People think $60 is a great price. Too bad you can get the same membrane (Filmtec 75 GPD Membrane) for$38 if you look. Then again I make 5 gallons of reef water a day and 4 gallons more (1-hour) for a ONR car wash is nothing.

if you need the sediment and carbon they are $2.95 and $8.95 online. Jsut FYI.

filters look very pricy and so does the unit. You could buy the hsg for $13 and buy the parts for like $3..Save some $$$$ Filters (sed and carbon) are 50 to 75% cheaper online.

Well Toysrme, I think you are correct. After 4 months on using Auto-Rx in two sperate cars, it did not clean as well as the inventer states or "pimps" [as you would say]. No increase in MPG's, no extra power, no smoother engines blah blah........ I also tried an LC20 flush on both cars AFTER the rise. My car did nothing new; but, wifes car it helped flush more crap out. I will have pix tonight on my webpage. Now I must say the inventer Frank Millers is really out there. I wanted to know 5 questions and to this day he avoids it like the Asian flu and got really mad at me for asking. Either my two engines are REALLY clean or his product does not work as the "high-n-almighty". Here is my chessy page. http://home.comcast.net/~sump/My_auto_RX.html In the end I would PIMP LC20 more since I set up a little thing with Dyson analysis. I am going to use dino (yes folks dino) and LC20 and he feels that this should work the same as Amsoil but for less. See what happens.

....might have to try that...

I just use some Poorboys EXP on it since I do not use this product anylonger. Works good on wheels. I still love there Wheel cleaner...

vinegar works, polish works, denatured alocohol works etc.....List is endless.

I would but again, not a multi-tasker here.

I agree with 99% but I feel a sealant will not give the same warmth/glow of a carnauba. One is not better, just different. But one will last longer then other.... I do not like waxes but wax the wifes car with CG and my car only gets JW.

I use Ro/Di water and ONR at times. But then again my TDS are low so I do not notice much. But the website is good. Only issue is you can make the filter carts (with adp) for 50% less. And the filter online are cheaper. I can buy the sediment (5 or 10 micron) for 2.95 and carbon (5 or 10 micron) $8.95 to 9.95. I use them on my reef tank. And the resin and RO membrains are dirt cheap online. Just need to look.

Welcome to LOC! I would first check the battery term. Maybe lose? I would ust take a volt meter on the battery. Check, then start car and see what it reads. It should not be below like 11.5 volts when not running *should be around 12*. When running, I THINK, it should be above 12.5 volts. If above then alt is working and charging batt. If not, I would check battery and then alt. Pulling starter tips? Nope, I have not done a starter in years...getting old I guess LOL

the iron is on the high side for only 5K miles IMHO. Per Terry, an oil testing house here. "My own Avalon (2001) began sludging and you can imagine how anal I am with maintenance !!! That on M1 5w-30 tri syn. PCV system was loading up too. Auto-RX and Fuel Power with Schaeffers fixed that issue, then I switched to RL 5w-30 but the analysis results showed the oil being stressed severely. Design issue troops not service intervals." Based on my limited testing in my 98, there is no way I would ever go 7,500 miles per the book with dino.

I agree if you can find it. I like Quickshine since it is one less item I need and Quickshine is more a multi-taker....Does wonder on windows and more! :D Do any of these products cause harm to the defrost elements on the rear window? no

Problem with Ammonia (Windex) is that it is a no-no for tinted windows.

When i had my Older Powerstroke Diesel I had an issue. I tried the Lysol and it worked for like 1 month. To prevent it shut off AC (but leave fan going) about 2 to 5 miles before shutting car off. Use external air. This will help big time. What I do is once per year take an ozone machine from my house (size of shoe box) and put it in the car; the car is running with AC on 100%. Do this for about 15 minutes running ozone at MAX. I think it is like 2g/hr. It kills mold spores, mildew, bacteria, etc. Heck, you can smoke a cigar in the car and then 20 minutes later the smell is gone. The sell machines for detail shops online; but they are not cheap >$500.

See section 8? I would say use any wax or sealant you have laying around .None is better then nothing. Then again I do not buy this wheelwax.com stuff. I have never ever seen a wheel that clean after normal driving.

Just did a quick 3-hour exterior detail. 1. Washed with Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine; 2 bucket method 2. Clayed with Fine Magic Clay using Blue Minst Final wipe as Lube...love that stuff 3. Applied this time Jeff Werkstatt Prime Acrylic (last time was Stong) using the one and only Makita 9227C using LC white pad @ 1,100 rpms. Waited 1-hour to remove by hand; using MF towel. 4. Applied Jeff Werkstatt Acrylic Jett (last time I used their trigger) with MicroFiber pad. 5. Used Chemical Guys Liquid Extreme Shine on lower plastic (under doors). 6. Used Poorboys Bold-n-Bright on tires; two coats. Rims were cleaned two weeks ago with PB wheel cleaner. I must say after 3.25 months the Jeff Werkstatt stuff holds up VERY well. Should be good to good till 1-1-2007.

I know there is a thread on autopia and so far the outcome on Touchup123 is pretty poor.