Toysrme

pretty common. one of mind does it. sometimes u need to lube the tracks, sometimes lube the motor, sometimes fix the contacts on the switch.

It wouldn't. It causes your brake pedal to fall.

That's also an i4. ;) My protege & my civic both cruised 80mph around 4000. My answer is the same here as CL. You're normal. 2700rpm = about 70mph by the book.

Safety switch. It may require you to trip the brake light switch on the brake pedal before the ECU will start the car, just like you have to trigger that switch to shift out of park. That's a guess as to why you can't crank it. I've never lived with an '02 330, so no idea if they're suppose to do that. No, sitting on jackstands won't hurt the car provided you're near the correct jacking points. I think mine sat on jackstands about 2 months straight last year.

No kidding!!! Just a 23 year old talking here... I'd take a G35 over a GS/IS300 every day of the week & not think twice about it. So the sportier nature appeals to me. I'd also take a vq35de over a 2jz-ge every day of the week too! Take a look at late model 540i's too.

No, notings broken. I simply think you've got air in the lines or the master cyl. Bleed them the correct way. You'll be OK.

For what sway bar bushings? White lithium grease, or black chassie grease. It's one time where you can over-lube at will. As soon as it goes dry, it'll just squeak again.

Maybe. Always check the transmission fluid too tho .Generally the dogbone mount takes the majority of the torque abuse. That's it's only purpose in life. Mounts like that normally wear long befor the other mounts. Now if you're driving around with one that's broken, all the other engine mounts are having to deal with an engine & transmission that rock around signifigantly more. So they wear out at a much faster rate once that mount's shot. There's a reason aftermarket cheapies cost ike $30-40 bucks. They're "expendable"! :D

It's the lateral engine mount. Passanger wheel well & connects to a stand on the side of the engine (right beside the timing belt ccver).

When you change worn pads to new pads you recompress the pistons greatly. This shoves fluid back up into the brake resivior, which if it was full at the time of pad changing, will blow fluid out the over-fill drain. When you've finished, the brake fluid settles back down after adjustment & now the empty void is filled with air. You always bleed brakes when you change brake pads. It shoul be done every 3 years or so anyway. Moisture inb rake fluid sucks. Makes it boil at almost 1/2 the temp.

Because you should always bleed the fluid during a pad change. I think you changed the pads, which shoved out brake fluid & sucked air in the lines.

Bleed the brakes. Why couldn't you turn the key to crack the car?

Hawk HPS, Brembo blanks. Don't buy slotted, drilled or dempled rotors. (Akebone ProACT pads are the dealer installed pads.) Flush your old, crappy brake fluid with whatever dot 4 fluid you've got. Understand, that it's not the OEM brake pads slowing you down with brake fade. Before any quality street pad begins to really melt & loose grip; dot3, or any old brake fluid has long since been boiling in the caliper, giving you no brake pedal effort. At any rate, without going to track pads (Hawk track pads lol) You're not going to get a better combination than Hawk HPS pads & Brembo blank rotors. Don't worry about dusting. No one pad/type is going to dust more, or less than another. They all dust, it's a fact of life. Kevlar pads dust too... Don't believe the BS hype of them lol!

Probably the wiring to the gauge. If the sensor was dead, the ECU would throw a fit & stay in warm-up mode. You'd have no overdrive, and the engine wouldn't want to rev past... Say 4000rpm at all. Alias, check the wiring, the gauge & the sensor.

Sounds good. A vacuum leak could cause the stalling & poor running at low throttle too. If it gets better after u fix the split hose, there ya go! (But ya still may wanna clean the above mentioned things.)

cgts! Yeah, most bodyshops now have prep & paint people capible of 100% repairs. It's not like going for Macco!

I think it's the transmission. There should be no differance in position 1 & position 2 in the gear selector. The fluid still routes through the first gear section in the manual valve body. Check the fluid & kick-down cable, and that the torque convertor lock-up is functioning correctly. Thats my best guess.

I'd start with cleaning the IAC, Throttlebody & EGR Check the throttle valve (kick-down) cable is in adjustment CHeck transmission fluid Check that the engine mounts are ok

Yeah man, this is the kind of thing that's no big deal. I had to rebuild & repaint my front 1/4 panel after some dummy in a work parking lot molested the thing. Broke a bumper (I've told that story 2 many times now, yeah yeah we all know lmao!) No biggie. No worries. Find a used bumper. That's the kinda stuff I wouldn't even call the insurance company on if it was only a couple hundred bucks.

For metal, that would be very hard to pull out b/c the bumper (silver) has been dented in to the point of leaving a perminant ridge. I digress, it's not metal, it's poly. So. Im not sure if someone could fix that. Can they? I know aslong as plastic doesn't take a huge lick you can pop it out sometimes much farther than metal. You could pully that off & replace it. While it's off, fix the metal bumper itself. Good as new.

The hose is split, or the bleed valve on the caliper is open. If you saw the fluid coming out of the hose, then the hose is shot.

Sure you can break one, but that'd be the first broken stock valvespring I've ever seen, or heard of. The intro to about every engine section in every Lexus/Toyots engine repair manual states at some point "Exhaust and intake valves are equipped with irregular pitch springs made of special valve spring carbon steel which are capable of functioning no matter what the engine speed." It's simple. The bottom end is set to 0*btdc intake strong, the cams themselves have alignment marks used during assembly.. (In the case of the v6's, dots on the camshaft intermesh gears inside the head. Align the dots, the valvetrain is in time.) Well... They're simpler & easier to work on once you create some space. I always hear non import mechanics complaining about import engines, but frankly... Anyone ever actually tried to pull the heads off any v8 still in the engine bay? That crap is physical. Just abit more room to work with. Sure man. AIM/Yahoo it if you wanna talk about it too. If i'm not logged in on a computer somewhere, THe cellphone is logged in so... Your description tells us that it's knocking, overheating, is stalling, loosing coolant, was some mixing of oil in the coolant. It's most likely blown a head gasket. The iron block will be fine. The pistons will be fine. The rings are probably worn at that age, but warming it up & doing a compression / leakdown test will tell ya the general condition of them. Valve stem seals are no biggie. A replacement intake & exhaust set cost like $3-4-5 dollars. Cheap. If you don't think it's blown up, warm up the engine & do a compresson/leakdown test to be sure. Be sure to record the numbers for each cylinder & let us know.

Go outside & check it 2omorrow. Pull the transmission dipstick out & wipe it on a paper towel, or napkin so u can see the color. Smell it too. That'll answer your question. (Regardless of who you see for service, it still your responcibility to check it.) But that'll tell you the answer to the question. If the fluid is ugly (it *should* be a pretty pretty bright, clear red), or smells aweful (Trust me, you don't need trianing. It'll either not really smell, or it'll smell aweful. It's a "know it when you smell it" kinda thing) then the fluid wasn't change often enough. If the fluid looks good, then the other answer to your question would likely be in order. (That you just have some random, uncommon failure hunnie.) btw, once ya do that, tell us what the transmission is doing, or was doing & maybe we can help ya out as to the cause.

If you don't do transmission maintenance you're being unrealistic. Gotta flush the fluid atleast every 3 years hunnie. Pull the dipstick out & tell me if the fluid on it isn't black & smells horrible. If it is, there's your answer to the failure.

Try and SAE set for an in-between size, along with some spray penitrating oil to loosen it up. I've had one dead on something else before (Not an engine, with a plastic cover tho). I got it off by taking a bigger allen wrench & beating it to fit with a hammer. Same way you would a nut, or bolt. Tool steel is tough. May break a tool eventually, but they have warr.'s for a reason. :) Anyone else know how to get a stripped allen nut out? *edit* Nevermind.