Alexander the o.k.

Passed one of these yesterday on the highway, and just laughed and laughed. :) :) : ) They are just too funny. It was the first I'd seen. Of course when gas hits $7/gal here he'll be laughing at me. The comedic value? Priceless! No offense of course to you 'Smart' guys :) Hell, I may get one just for the sheer joy of it. Cheers!

Just a WAG (wild-!Removed! guess) Have you spilled cola or a drink on the shift interlock button? Mash it down 10 times or so to free it up. Spray some wd 40 on it. Put a dab on the key as well. Test. Then take it apart and do a proper cleaning. Also, try lightly sanding down the key w/ 400 grit sandpaper, oil. Good luck

We think that is some very bold font. How about some help. "A" help may not work :) Actually, it's called the Valet key. Just opens a few things. What you have is the metal tag with the code on it. It allows the locksmithy to cut a new key pattern based on the 5 digit number on the tag. This will give you a master key that will open all locks, door, trunk, glove, etc. As far as the remote is concerned, as long as you have that number, and your VIN, (correct me here guys) you can order a new transponder, but it will need to be matched to the base unit located, I believe, in the trunk. They will have to pull the chip in the trunk unit, and the key, and re-program both to match. Get ready to spend some $$$$$ for the privilege of a remote. Good luck

We're all here to help each other. The braintrust at LOC is amazing. But it is nice to get a bit 'o feedback when the suggestion worked.... Helps others. I will admit that it is extra nice to to help a damsel in distress, the black knights at the LOA dealership will eventually find the prob, but may also tend to keep your wheels for a day or two to 'diagnose' a simple problem at a mere $125.00 per hour. Bas%*ards.... Glad to help.

J- Hey. You may be the first guy ever to do that! :D ;) Is second to no board! Da*n ! And by the time I see this you're already up to 1043! Congrats!

My pleasure. You guys have helped more than you know.

And I may have missed it, but did you check the trunk hinge wire harness. This is a known problem which causes all manner of strangeness. It caused me much heartache til I found the problem. Maybe the repeated shorting at the harness forces the ECU to receive bad data, who knows? In any event, it's easy enough to check, and costs $0 to fix. It makes this smooth world class auto act like a balky misfiring lawn tractor with water in the tank. Try it.

Buhler? Anyone? Let me rephrase. Is it normal for the subwoofer to be so weak that you can barely hear it?

Have you done a search for " trunk hinge wire harness "? Classic symptoms of a short there. Find the shorted wire at hinge, and repair/ re-tape it. Let us know if it works. Good luck

Try this : http://www.carstereohelp.com/repairDoItYou...usRepairVol.htm And scroll down. Apparently, this is a known issue w the LS line. It may or may not apply in your case.

Classic electrical symptoms. Has the trunk wiring harness issue been resolved in this model year? It sounds just like it. Do a search for " sputtering " , "stalling" etc. This affects mostly older model years i.e. 1st and 2nd gen. models. Sounds just like it tho. Fuel would give slowly worsening symptoms. When it's all of a sudden, then I would suspect electrical. Have your ignition coil / module checked. Check all plug wires. Have an electrical system check done.

Describe the symbol in detail. If you are seeing the little car w/ lights symbol, that indicates that a bulb somewhere is burned out. It may not be a brake light. Check the bulb in your trunk or boot. Check parking and all interior lights as well.

A bottle a day! Are you sure there's a bottom to the fill tank? :) I seem to have to top it off about every 3-4 weeks with 4 or 5 ounces. But then I've been using a little trick I thought of several years ago. It is this; Start adding ATf fluid with STOP LEAK in it. I think what I use is called TRANS-SEAL. It should swell the seals enough to slow it down to almost nothing, unless of course they are physically gone. This may be a cheap stop gap until do finally do have it replaced. By the way, are you a Brit? Others who know more than I will be along soon I'm sure. Good Luck...

The stock Nak system in my 92 ls400 has had a weak sub from day one. So weak in fact that it is barely audible. It does work however as I can feel it vibrate and do hear it if I strain (which is never good ;) ). So today I ran a couple tests. Here's what I did; 1-Suspected the feed from the amp in the trunk, so did the jiggle test, and I could be imagining it, but it sounds stronger now. 2- Clipped the leads at the sub and wired up a brand new 5.25 " speaker just to test if the signal was just as weak. In other words was it the sub or the signal. It was even more faint than the stock sub which appears to be in great shape after removing the deck cover and eyeballing it. My conclusion is that the amp may weak, dying etc. Except that it's about the same strengh of signal since day one. In addition, all 4 4" drivers have been replaced by me at one time or another, the latest one being today. Is it because theyare (were) close to 15 years old, or is there an underlying electrical issue that burns 'em up? All the replacements are still working. How do I test the Amp signal to see if it is up to spec. What is Spec? thanks all you stereo guys....

Josh, Do you have any other weird electrical issues? Any of the typical probs associated with the wire harness issue such as dash lights, rough idle, etc? If not, then I suggest checking and cleaning the battery terminals and make sure they are rock solid tight. put a little silicone on each after cleaning all debris.

Thanks once again Wwest. The part circled #87138c was what seemed to be indicated by the Lexus parts guy. That is why I drew the arrow and made the comment on it. You have just saved me a load of frustration I'm sure. Cheers!

WTG and welcome to club Lexus. It truly is a world class automobile. With a little care, it will provide you with many years of faithful service. Nice set o' wheels!

DrJfrmLA--- I 2nd the motion before the board. signed, Newguy vyhanh, And the guys here are a class act. Fullstop. Finito. Period.

Seek and you'll find. This is a diagram straight from lexus of the blower assmbly. Hope it helps others. The crude arrow is pointing to the transistor, I believe.

Well, still no luck with the search function for : Aircon transistor or transistor. I remember seeing somewhere that it might be located on the evaporator. Is this correct? What steps are needed to replace it so the blower works at low and medium speeds?

If your mechanic can't find the leak with dye, tell him to try the soap bubble test. Hell, you could do that one yourself!

Do you mean 'leaking'? If so, how do you know? Are there spots-if so, where? The obvious cheap 1st step would be to go to autozone or some such and buy the 134 recharge kit w/gauge so you know where levels are. Get one w/dye. Or you could try the soap bubble test. If you've lost freon you've lost oil. Make sure to get some oil into the system or the compressor may go next. I would avoid any of the 'stop leak' additives as they are a last ditch move. At least you might be able to stay cool short term and pinpoint the leak saving ' diagnostic dollars' at Lexus as they add up PDQ. Not that familiar w/r-12 replacements, but someone here may help w/ some other tips.

Hey J and W, Thanks both for the replies. We'll get this puppy sorted out I'm sure. The temp was about 100* today, and the heat index (whatever that is) was around 112, i think. I'm covered with sweat just thinking about fixing this, but I'll be dam*%d if I'll pay Lexus their rates. Anyway, I think it's narrowed to the resistor or i guess the transistor. But where is it? Where do I buy one? I'll do another search but I may need some pics... I've seen the term ECU somewhere. Is this the same thing? What would cause it to burn up? Thnx guys.

Can't say for the 96, but in the 92, it's located high on the firewall, left side in engine compartment. It should have a small wire cable running to it as well as a hot water (radiator) hose. I believe it is that valve that he is refering to. If it is stuck in the open position, it will mix hot and cold to give a more uniform temp inside. Make sure the cable has pulled back all the way on the valve (toward firewall) so that it is closed, and no hot is mixed in. Ready to eat crow burgers if I misread this ;)

Hey J and thanks for the quick reply. I'm pretty sure there is no ac filter in the 92. I will check the manual tho. If it were the filter, wouldn't that happen gradually instead of boom----gone? I will search the forum for glove box removal tips as that is where the blower is located, I would guess. Where is the resistor, or relay or both? Could they be mounted on the blower?