eman_be_lexin

Mburnikas, Did you receive 2 sets of 3 wires or did they come as a 3 wire set and that is it. I just want to make sure I am either right or wrong about this.

I don't know how to start but I have been searching for a set of spark plug wires for my 97 ES. Everywhere I have searched I found 1 set of 3 wires for my year. I was told I have to purchase 2 sets to change all the wires. I found the set on Lexus parts.com and they quoted me $84.00 for a set of 3. I thought it was rather steep considering I could have gotten NGK for a little over $90 for 2 sets. I sent an e-mail to the salesman asking about the wires. Here is the conversation: Me: Is the spark plug set for all 6 wires or just 3? Lexus-parts: I just want to be clear, your ES300, 97 year model does not have 6 wires although it does have 6 spark plugs. The set consists of only 3 wires, all the wires you need to replace your spark plug wire set. Should you have any further questions in the meantime, please feel free to contact me directly. Thank you for your time. I then purchased the set of wires and just received them yesterday. Just as I figured, it was a set of 3 wires. I don't understand how a car that has 6 cylinders run on 3 wires. That is just puzzling to me. I sent another e-mail to them about what I received and here is what they said: Lexus-parts: If I remember correctly, we already discussed this over the phone along with email. You received the correct spark plug wire SET as needed. You will not need any additional items or parts to replace your spark plug wires. Please use the following diagram of your wires to help better educate yourself with what is needed. Let me know what you guys think!!

you said the headlights aren't damaged but if you have radiator damage than something will be wrong with the headlights. I was in a similar accident with my Lex and the headlight assy's were $1200.00 each. Everything else is cheap.

that came in '98 or '99

yup!!!!

I was driving down RT 26 in Randallstown Md when a guy in a red Dodge pickup attempted to make a right hand turn from a crossing street. I noticed he was pulling out into the intersection and I moved into the furthermost westbound lane to avoid him hitting me. He must have not seen me because he kept going anyway and ran into the back door and 1/4 panel of the passenger side of the car. Not to mention he had a red light and I had a green light. To make things worse he has the iest insurance company ever called Bristol West. Those people are idiots and are trying their best to get over.

These are the pics of my car right at the scene of the accident. My car was put in the shop on July 26 and I just got the call that it is ready.

I replaced mine with an Image Dynamics ID8.v from SoundDomain.com. It is a very detailed process to change the speakers because of the custom made woofer in the back of the car. I have posted detailed instructions on how to do this. I am not very familier on how to search this forum but I posted it at the end of last July.

I also have a 97 Es but mine is black. The ES does have memory seats. Look to the left of the driver's side seat cushin. There are 3 butons saying "set" "2" "1". Those are the memory controls. As far as the knob is concerned. I don't know the correct wording for that feature but it is supposed to adjust the ride from a softer more luxurious ride to a more sporty ride. Many people love that feature on their cars who have them. If you set the knob to the luxury mode it may end the rattling and harsh ride that you are experiencing.

It sounds like you have a short in the connection wire to the harness. You may want to check the wire harness for damage. I had that same problem with my side marker bulb also. I think it is the way the wire has to be bent to place the bulb in the socket.

I can almost gurantee it is the amp. I had a similar amp here in maryland and it always faded in and out. The good thing about that was the fact that my back seats were able to fold down to allow air to cool it off. I don't want to bust your bubble but I have heard numerous stories about Boss Amps. They were not very good. But it could just be some models of that particular amp. Or you can adjust the sound level of the amp so it is not overheating as fast. The only problem with that is you will sacrifice performance of the amp and sub system.

What kind of amp are you running on this sub? It could be the amp overheating and fading away, then coming back on when it cools down.

I am just looking for a fun to drive factor in these cars. My last car was a 4 cylinder Honda Accord and that was very fun to drive. When I bought the Lexus I noticed I was in a different class of car. I think the 97 is very fun to drive. I have been doing some homework on the ES's, and basically all major automobile magazines say that the newer generation has lost it's fun to drive factor and focus' mainly on comfort and luxury.

1997 ES

On 7/25/04 Someone in a Dodge Ram hit the passenger side of my ES again. My car is at Darcars collision center getting about $5000.00 worth of work done on it. This is the second time this year someone has hit the car. Some people tell me I should get rid of it and buy a newer car. I love the ES but I have learned that the newer model has lost whatever sporty character the previous models had. Now I am unsure of what I want to do. Does anyone have any insight?

Are you planning on replacing the grill? If so, are you replacing it with an aftermarket grill? I have looked everywhere and there are no aftermarket grill kits for any ES300's.

I am having the same problem. Any information for this would help. Anyone else having this problem?

25 here. Bought my baby when I was 21

I was thinking about that but I love my trunk space.

Has anyone attempted to change the Subwoofer in the rear deck of their ES? I have spent all weekend on this project and it was not fun. I replaced the stock speaker with an Image Dynamics Id 8 v.3 series sub and so far it hits harder and deeper than the factory one. (of course it should because it is better) To replace the speaker is a very detailed process: 1st. You need to remove the speaker cover with the 3rd lamp housing in it (careful to disconnect the the harness from the lamp) 2nd. You need to remove the 4 hex head screws that bolt the speaker to the car 3rd. You need to clip the speaker wires from the speaker. They are discretely hidden behind the sub toward the seats. (by the way the magnet from the speaker loves the cutters) 4th. You need to try to take push the holding pins that hold the rear deck cover to the body of the car. (just use a pair of pliers to push the clips in and push them through the hole. 5th. You need to take hours trying to pull the woofer through the opening in the rear deck without damaging the cover or the woofer. The woofer is part of a metal fittment that is specifically designed to fit in that hole. The metal fittment is molded in such a way that it securely fits in the divets in the rear deck and also has the holes to secure the speaker cover in place. (There are two ways to get around this. One is easy and the other is not. The easy way is to drill 8 small holes to mount the speaker to the deck or the hard way (which is the one I chose) is to cut a square foot piece of 3/8" plywood. Using the plywood, you will have to cut an 8" hole in the middle of the plywood to fit the speaker. Then you have to take the old speaker and trace the molded design on the plywood and use a skil saw to cut the design exactly as the fittment for the old subwoofer is. 6th you will have to drill the 4 mounting holes in the plywood molding you created and 8 mounting holes using 1/2" flat head screws for the subwoofer. Attach the subwoofer in the molding and place it in the rear deck. It should fit flush against the body of the car. If it doesn't fit, you didn't cut it like it should. 7th. You will now have to do some work to the speaker cover. The speaker cover is designed to block the light coming from the brake light from entering the speaker compartment. There is a lip that fit over the stock subwoofer and it fit flush with the cover. With an aftermarket speaker you will have to saw a large chunk of that lip off of the cover to keep from damaging the rubber surround of the aftermarket speaker. 8th you will have to cover the hole that leads to the brake light compartment. ther is a 1 1/2" hole that exposes the brake light. I used a piece of cardboard and a hot glue gun to cover that hole. (I learned this lesson driving home at night and saw the white light coming through the speaker cover). 9th you have to connect the speaker wires to the new speaker or amp that you bought and then re-attach the speaker cover on the rear deck. But the tricky par is that you no longer have the clips that catch the cover as you slide it back. I used velcro on it and it works perfectly. Now the speaker is installed and all I need to do is add the amp (I am getting that professionally installed) and I have to dynamat the trunk because it is not designed for the extra vibration or air pressure of an aftermarket speaker.

I also have the same problem with my '97

That order is as good cancelled. The Denso's were Cheaper. I just wanted a Matching Set.

When I am talking about the 3 plugs, I am talking about where they are. Three of the plugs are right underneath the plastic cover on top of the engine. The other 3 are tilted toward the firewall of the car. I thought NGK were great along with the Denso's. I currently have a 97 ES.

Mburnikas, How were you able to get to the 3 plugs that are pointed toward the firewall. That is a pretty tight area. I know you had to use a special tool to get back there. Can you tell us how you did it? I looked at this particular posting and went with the NGK Iridium plugs and the NGK wire sets. They will be her on Monday. I want to change them myself but just want to make sure I do everything right.

How do you remove or access the Head Unit on a 97 ES. I am going to be installing an Amp and everything looks to be in-accessable.