steviej

I am going to move this thread to the General Maint. forum as this is not a problem specific to the IS. I am sure others may have the same question. steviej

Recently I noticed that the DRLs were starting to look really sad/tired and the illumination achieved on high was not what I was used to. I pulled the two 9005 PIAA Xtreme White bulds that have been in there for 2 years now. The DRLs are on all the time and I use alot of back roads and country roads so my highs get a fair amount of playing time. I guess I got my money's worth on these bulbs. Here is what I found. They are not blown, they are just all sooty inside and kinda look pregnant. They have been replaced with Sylvania Silverstars. Lets see how long they go for at half the price. steviej

Doug, PM functions are not accessable to members until their post count is >= 20. The email function works provided they registered and active email address. steviej

stop yelling!!!!!! your posts, your screen name, even your location is all in caps. Crombiedude, we aim to help all who come here, you don't have to shout. Just ask nicely. Tubos---none that I have seen in this country, at least commerically. I know of one member who is attempting a turbo on a 92. Superchargers--TRD (Toyota Racing Division) makes one for the 99 Camry but it will not fit the 99 ES because of the VVT-i engine. As for 20" wheels and tires, sure anything is possible. My tire guy tried to talk me into 20"s on my 2002. The 99 will be harder because of less room. The big question is why? Look at pictures on this forum and others of 2nd generation ES with 20" treads. They look like mini 4x4's. not pretty in my eyes. I think you will find that 18"s will servie you better. welcome aboard. steviej

P0420 is the code for Catalyst system efficiency below threshold in Bank 1. Bank one the is the three cylinders against the firewall. This code is not saying you your sensors are kaput. It is simply indicating that the catalyst performance is deteriorating. Problem areas are -gas leakeage on exhaust system -Air/Fuel sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) is lazy or faulty -Heated oxygen sensor (bank 1 sensor 2) is lazy or faulty. -exhaust manifold each of the sensors can be tested individually to see if they are funcitoning properly. This must be done by a trained mechanic with the proper tools and specs. OR you can replace out the sensors, expensive at the lexus dealer, not so expensive if you get them at www.sparkplugs.com and do it yourself. It is an easy job, but you have to have the right tools and know what to do. We can help you. As for the CEL. Many states are now adopting legislature that mandates a car fail state inspeciton if the CEL is on. Like the add says: you can pay him now or pay him later. Faulty sensors can lead to rich or lean emissions. Rcih emissions can lead to premature decay and failure of the catalytic converter and that is very very expensive to fix. steviej

here is a link to alldata.com for the 2002 ES. these are only the titles, for content you have to subscribe or find someone that has a subscription. steviej

I am really starting to like the front end of the 05 ES, even thinking of swaping headlight assemblies. hey boris, just a quick question: How much are you charging the dealeship for the mobile advertising space on your front bumper? :whistles: steviej

I am guessing that arcon is ARCO misspelled. sj

did you try 93 gas? run a couple of tankfuls. steviej

we just call em "!Removed! cans" around these parts. steviej

good point and good luck. It just dawned on me, why do you want to buy a new car if you are shipping out in FEB. Will someone at home you trust be driving/using your new car or will it sit while you are away. Here is an idea, work with Jason on getting your ES250 up to a satisfactory condition. Drive it till Feb and sell it just before your leave or have someone sell it while your are gone. Save most of your pay while you are on duty and then put a sizable downpayment on a nice new car. The sizable downpayment will help you secure a larger loan. Just a thought. sj

kcpth, PEI = Prince Edward Island. go look at a map, it is in the top right hand corner up by Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. Absolutely beautiful area. easterner, what about insurance. Won't they pay for repair and reupholstery or total replacement? you could also try www.car-parts.com steviej

knock sensors are replaced when they go bad. That will send a code. I don't know if they get lazy like and O2 sensor can. It stands to reason that they could. I think they are just had to get at that's all. Keep it simple and cheap, work your way up. Try the gas variation, then the plugs (like SK said), then the motorvac, then the knock sensors until you get to the source. you can easily reset the ECU just by pulling the ECU fuse. No need to disconnect the battery. steviej

I guessing the rear calipers were stuck, stiff or slightly dragging. Reason=lack of use. They are being replaced, when you get it back it will be smooth as silk. There is a TSB for front brake rotor and pad replacement on the 2002 model. Had mine done at 24k miles cause it had to be done. When you get it back complain the fronts are pulsating if they haven't already been done. I can tell easily by a picture of you rotor if it had been done. The Lexus computer will tell you also. Bottom line: your front brake job is going to be a freebie. Play it right. Ask for the TSB while the car is still under warranty. Don't do it until you feel the pulsation in the front.....maximize your warranty if you know what I mean. steviej

mxl4729, it would be easier if you told us........go look. steviej

run a few tankfuls of 93 or 89 from a different brand/station and see if it goes away. It could be the gas, it could be the plugs or it could even be a lazy knock sensor. start with the easy cheap things and process of elimination. steviej

luck. sj

or, if you don't want to lose your radio presets and stuff, pull the ECU fuse. steviej

chalk one up for amf1932. sj

don't worry about it. Mine sits at full and slowly drops to 3/4 when 100 miles has gone by, then slowly drops to 1/2 and then BAM is drops like a rock to 1/4. My SSEi did the same thing as did my 626GT. Gas guages, electronic or float type act differently and are not always linear. I use the trip meter as a back up. steviej

Josh if the whistling wasn't there before the windshield replacement and immediately present after the windshield replacement I doubt it is the moonroof. Paul, I had my windshield replaced about 2 months ago. I was nervous to have it done. I called my dealership and found out where they outsource their work to. I called them (turns out it is 25 minutes from my house) and had the work done there. Not problems whatsoever. I suggest you do the same. Just call you insurance company and let them know what is going on. They shouldn't have a problem. If you would like, Lexus of Norwood has their glass done by Allstate Glass in Weymouth, MA. It's a trip for you, but they may be able to rectify what your glass shop did or can't find. They do the glass for all models of Lexi. steviej

I think you will find 0w-30 to be contrary to what you manual calls for. Synthetic 5w-30 would have been fine for Chicago as it has been for New England and Canada members. I personally would not have gone with the 0w, but that is just me. steviej

how long has it been clicking. It has probably run your battery low enough that it won't start the car. As for the clicking: Is it coming from all four doors or just the driver's door? In any case it sounds like the lock actuator is stuck in a loop. The door keeps trying to unlock it self so to speak. Rather than take apart you key fob, stand next to the car while a freind walks more than 100ft away from the car with just the fob. You keep the key at the car. The signal shouldn't more than 50 ft. If the clicking stops, it may just be your fob. If the clicking stops, then use the key and see if your car starts. I am not betting on the fob. OK, so now if you are still standing at the car, and the clicking is still going on, then open the car with your key. Locate the fuse box and the fuse for the power door locks. Pull that fuse. (On my 02 ES, it is fuse PWR NO. 1. This will cut the circuit to the power lock in the driver's door, the windows and the moonroof). When you pull the fuse, does the clicking stop. If the clicking stopped, can you start the car now with a charged battery or a jump. Last thought, since you disconnected the battery at the terminal, does your model ES have a security code or sequence that must be performed in order to reactivate/cancel out the secruity system when the battery is reconnected? post back. steviej

I ask you honestly........would you pay $2000 for it? not a problem, so far it is 5 to 0 in dumping the albatross. Watch for one of those sale days where dealers will give you $2000 for anything you can push pull or carry onto the lot. Then talk financing. Used cars and new cars are more like 5-10% (not 18%...that's a credit card). Look for a first time buyers program. Go through a credit union as opposed to a bank, they are little more leanient. You never know as long as you apply. You have a residence and a steady job, right? Give it a shot. You don't have to try to bag a $35k loan your first time out. steviej