TurboGS300

Here's where I got mine from, they had the best price + free shipping. <_< Autozone carries them as well. optima

Good job B)

Brakes are brakes! Get a new shim kit when you replace the brakes. Use antisqueal. Check rotors <_<

If you would have searched you would have found this <_< brake clunk Here's some more good info for anyone with any problems in the front end. folks, i finally decidied to change my front lower ball joints this morning, kinda woke up this morning feeling exceptionally blessed and good so i dove into the front end .. took me all of 30 mins to do both sides .. you should have seen my drivers side joint. once i removed it , it nearly fell apart in my hands.. the entire joint was busted and bobbling around. i did not use a pickle fork. i have a good stock of tools in my home garge , air compressor etc etc ,so i used a good pitman arm puller and popped the tie rod ends off in like 30 seconds , then popped the ball joint out in about 5 mins.. now i have only 65k on my 99 and my car was born and driven in south flotida all its life.. i bought her with barley 40k miles on her 2 yrs ago.. the reason for this post is, i cant beleive how tight my front end got, it feels like a brand new car again in the front end.. tight , responsive , AND NO SHIMMY , OR VIBRATIONS ..gone , completely gone .. smooth as silk..i have all possible susp braces and coilovers and running a 2in + drop up front with 19in and smooth as glass now.. my theory which i always suspected is , we put a tremendous amount of stress on our front ends with 19-20in wheels , stiff/firm coilovers and big brakes .. the energy has to be transferred/absorbed somewhere.. well it finds itself down to your ball joints and tie rod ends rather quickly.. my advice to those who are getting a understeering , swaying type sensation while driving , on and off again vibrations and shimmy, clicking noise when you sit in car, and just overall bad tracking in the front end , spend the 75 per side get the joints and change them out and spend the extra 80 and get the outer tie rod ends to go with it as well .. after your done get a good wheel alignment and your front end will bring back that smiling feeling again just wanted to let you guys know for what its worth

Search for my reply on brakes on another thread, it will answer any questions you might be having about brakes. It's called brake squeal, brake bads are vibrating (or resonating). Fix is to apply brake quiet stuff, or silicone to back of pads, install clip or adjust clip, or resurface the rotors <_<

NO WAY!!! <_<

I'd buy and I bought the HID kit. Anything else is just a waste of money. I'd recommend Phillips, katz, the new Mcculloch's are supposed to be good. <_< Mcculloch 4100k

The cable is attached to the parking brake, make sure it's not broken. If it's still attached , next pull the rear wheels and rotors off and you'll see the shoes and adjusters. See if the shoes are shot and if the cable is moving and spreading the shoes when the parking brake is applied. Replace shoes and or cable. Readjust B) , call it a day.

What doesn't work? Check rear shoes, probably worn out. If rear shoes ok, check & adjust cable. <_<

Ngk's are cheaper and I've heard they're just rebadged Denso's. The only difference is the thickness of the center electrode. Not anything that will make a difference to us. Expect them to last a minimum of 60 thousand miles. B)

Forget the octane boost, you need 30 to 40 points. I think you may have to blend octanes. Also maybe go to the station and find someone who's buying gas anyways and see if they'll trade you voucher for cash. Your best best is to try and sell the vouchers or get the station to let you pay the difference, shouldn't matter to them. Everything else is too expensive. B)

V=Can you use that voucher for another car that you may own? Talk to the service station manager will they allow you to pay the difference from regular to premium. If all this falls through, just use the octane boost, and fuel injector cleaner every other tank. You only need to jump it up 4 points, so don't go overboard. I'd also make sure you use a good gas like chevron to start with. Do they offer anything for additional maintenance for all the extra miles put on your car, you know maintenance is not cheap on the Lex? Maybe you'd be beter off parking the Lex and going with a cheap honda or toyota if you're thinking about doing this for awhile? Or maybe a motorcycle? B)

Iridiums! <_<

Sounds like it still not geting fuel, maybe the new fuel lines too close to something hot and it's evaporatiog the fuel? Is there a pressure port near the intake to check for fuel? I'd take it back to whoever did the work, sounds like you're getting the run around <_<

Premium! <_<

Nope <_<

I believe the brake pedal may be your culprit, look for a sticky or broken switch. There are 2 or three switches on it.

That's about the normal price for a decent HID kit. <_<

Sound like fuel gauge sensor or fuel pickup. <_<

Alway use outside air and you'll have a dry, non smelling system. <_<

It was hidden, however, i found it with a little persistance! Send your $50 to me at...... :D plug change

Search, it's been covered. <_< Manual on EBay for about $100

If you do some searching you'll find there are some common things that you should look for and need to be done. Depending on what's been done maintenance wise (very important) and the overall condition, that price sounds a litle high. B)

Do you want lights that serve a function or just look pretty? <_< Function= 4100 to 5400k look pretty= 6000k and above

Yeah, and I forgot to mention my dad left the car running with me in it, big mistake B)