code58

I am starting to have the same problem. Did you have any luck fixing this problem? Don't know if Morph will respond to this or if he got the problem fixed and moved on. I am wondering if the correct struts were used. The gates on all SUV's are pretty heavy and at least in the past I have seen struts that were not strong enough or lost their lift soon in life. If it goes up when assisted, my guess would be that the struts are not strong enough and it is doing what it is designed to do, returning to lock as a safeguard, rather than going up and then coming down on someones head. There are good aftermarket struts I am sure, but unfortunately you can't look at them and tell. To say all parts are not created equal is a dramatic understatement! *Was making the assumption that this was powered lift on gate.

Jim- 1st question I need to ask is how thick are the LININGS on the pads? Do you have a way to measure them? Have you ever had them replaced before? I can tell you, I would be amazed if you needed rotors. Lexus uses very high quality rotors as original equipment. My DIL's 99RX has the original rotors and though the pads have been replaced a couple of times, the rotors have never been turned and are in very acceptable condition. Google "Centric" and read what they have to say about pulsing brake pedal. They manufacture brake parts and it's a real eye-opener what they say about the problem. Do what they say and see if it gets rid of the problem. I have tried it and it works! They give you a very thorough explanation of what the cause often is and it has worked for me more than once. Let us know what you think. By the way, the pads are VERY easy to change- if you have a wife, she could probably do it. Good Luck!

Gibbie- I think he was talking about the front suspension strut mounts, at the top of the front suspension strut. They tend to be problematic on the Rx's. just like your rear lid support struts were. :)

LM- Welcome to the world of Lexus dealers. Now you know how they afford the freebies that you get in the lounge. They're NOT FREE, you paid for 'em when you drove in that driveway. I am assuming these are HID headlights? I assume ecu would stand for "electronic control unit". I don't know a lot about them but I would guess the ecu is that little cigarette pack sized box that actually produces the blinding light they produce. I would outlaw them personally, but, being in Chicago, I guess you're far enough away that you won't blind me, at least not any time soon.

Thank God it happened where it did. I'm glad for you that it WASN'T disastrous. I have read of it before, but never as convincingly as you. I don't have an answer for you but I hope you had that thing flat bedded to the nearest Lexus shop.

HYP- Can you tell me where to get that brake grease- I know someone who has been looking all over for that and hasn't been able to find it anywhere. Just unscrews like a spark plug, but there are special sockets for it. Have a slot in the side of them for the wire. You CAN get it out without the sp. soc. You do have to jack it up or use a hoist because you have to get to it from the bottom (on the rear bank, by the firewall). The tough part is getting the plug unplugged because you need 2 hands and unless you're a midget or a contortionist you can't get both hands up there at the same time. I finally got it, but it wasn't easy. I see you're in Florida- has the car always been in Florida? Rust belt people sometimes have a challenge because it's rusted in. My DIL's RX has always been in So. Cal. so it was no problem, we don't have rust here. Some people have gone so far as to cut it out of the pipe with a torch and then weld in a bung to screw the sensor into. In my estimation, that is the rough way to go. I have used a hot wrench (torch) all my life to remove seized (rusted) whatever, and have not to this day ever had one break off. You hold the tip of the torch right on the nut or whatever is seized and when it is heated red hot, it expands and breaks the lock of the rust. I trust you don't have to do that. If you have a Harbour Freight in your area, they sell a nice sensor socket very reasonable. Your money, do what you wish, but I would advise use ONLY DENSO for replacement sensor. They can be purchased online for as cheap as $150. at an online Lexus dealer. Google is your friend! AZ was correct- it is the "air/fuel ratio sensor" Denso part# is 89467-48011

I am truly curious Lexusnow as to why you cleaned the MAF when the code pointed directly to A/F ratio sensor, bank 1 sensor 1. I have dealt with this problem and that code IS specific to the HEATER in bank 1 sensor 1, which is the one on the firewall side of the engine. That sensor is the hard one to get to, primarily because the plug is difficult to get to, to release, but if you can get it out, it is easy to check with a meter for continuity to tell if it is bad. If the code is still P1135, then it's STILL the A/F ratio sensor heater, not the MAF! I am not telling you that it is the A/F ratio sensor, I'm only telling you that is the ONLY thing P1135 is referring to. That is the reason I explained there is a way to test it (the heater circuit) before you buy one and can't take it back. When I was referring to bad advice from AZ it was not your 1st post, in that post you said AZ said 02 sensor, bank 1. In that they were correct, if they were getting a P1135. How it changed to a MAF sensor that needed to be cleaned or replaced, I am still scratching my head over. If you wanted accurate interpretation of p1135, you have it. If you're on a fishing trip with no bait on your hook, fish on! Roger, your advice is usually the best on this forum. BUT, in this case, you are off the mark. Lexusnow should buy a six pack of MAF cleaner and clean MAF for one hour every 7 days. If that doesn't work he should buy a new MAF sensor and install it along with a new muffler bearing. That should solve his problem. Artbuc- Why didn't I think of that? Matter of fact, 2 muffler bearings, they're small. Probably can get those at AZ too. :lol:

I am truly curious Lexusnow as to why you cleaned the MAF when the code pointed directly to A/F ratio sensor, bank 1 sensor 1. I have dealt with this problem and that code IS specific to the HEATER in bank 1 sensor 1, which is the one on the firewall side of the engine. That sensor is the hard one to get to, primarily because the plug is difficult to get to, to release, but if you can get it out, it is easy to check with a meter for continuity to tell if it is bad. If the code is still P1135, then it's STILL the A/F ratio sensor heater, not the MAF! I am not telling you that it is the A/F ratio sensor, I'm only telling you that is the ONLY thing P1135 is referring to. That is the reason I explained there is a way to test it (the heater circuit) before you buy one and can't take it back. When I was referring to bad advice from AZ it was not your 1st post, in that post you said AZ said 02 sensor, bank 1. In that they were correct, if they were getting a P1135. How it changed to a MAF sensor that needed to be cleaned or replaced, I am still scratching my head over. If you wanted accurate interpretation of p1135, you have it. If you're on a fishing trip with no bait on your hook, fish on!

Hmmmm Verrrrrrry Interesting!!!!! (as ARTE JOHNSON used to say) Call me a sucker but being in Florida I go to the drive in Sears and get a Diehard... they are all geared up to get you in and out FAST and easy to make a claim if they die before their time! I noticed my original battery was replaced by the first owner it seems undersized... I am contemplating replacing it so I do not have a repeat of the "Great Battery in the Fan Blade disaster of 1977" when I let my boss hop on my 1970 396 Chevelle SS around the block and the bungie cords did not hold and faster than you can say "Where is the short?" The engine had a refreshing acid bath! So Dealer Battery or Sears Die Hard Gold? The size of the battery is not the important thing. Very frankly, if you have no way of testing the new battery you are contemplating buying... simply lift it! The heavier the battery, the more lead and the more power (that is a slight oversimplification, but only slight). The lighter the battery, the less lead and the less power. But that is only a poorboys way of testing. CCA rating and actual testing of CCA is important. I have spent my life in automotive work and have tested more batteries than I ever want to remember and the size of the case is not at all the final word in the power of the battery. My OTC tester tests CCA's, CA's, AH's, as well as a whole lot of other things and you would be surprised how few batteries test just what they are rated for. A lot of batteries test above what they are rated for and quite a few (brand new, fully charged) test below what they are rated for, some of them way below! Buy the battery based on the CCA's that you want (that will fit in your case), and then have them test it for ACTUAL CCA's BEFORE you buy it. If they won't test it for that, I'd buy somewhere else where they will. I bought a new battery for my motorhome at Sam's Club and for curiosity sake tested it when I got home before installing. It tested at 12.76V (good) and 90CCA's ! It was rated at 650 CCA's! I tested it a few hours later at 200+ CCA's, then at 100+ CCA's! Junk! When I took it back I had them test it and they said it was fine! Got my money back and went and bought a battery from someone who knew what they were doing. Which tested above what it was rated for!

The drain tubes from the sunroof NORMALLY go down each front pillar (windshield post). There would be no reason for there to be a drain from the roof rack.

Quickfix- Too many questions- I don't have time to answer them all, but I would suggest you go to www.obd-codes.com Type in Lexus in the box on the home page. On the page that takes you to (Google) click on #2 and it will take you to the Lexus specific OBDll code page. It's an excellent site with a ton of information, not just on that page, but roam the site, a lot of help there. It definitely sounds like you have a plugged catalytic convertor. Remember not to take every DTC too seriously. You have all kinds of DTC's popping up there and often have to clear all of them and them see what pops up to get a better handle on the situation. If it doesn't even run now, that's a little tough. If your CEL didn't even come on when you turn the key on, maybe the bulb is burned out or some other problem, but that light definitely has to come on when the key is turned on. Either the catalytic convertor is clogged or blocked from coming apart inside or the muffler is, check 'em both. Good Luck! Edit: The P1150 code is the air/fuel ratio sensor, and that sensor is the front one. When you open your hood, look straight down and it will be screwed into the exhaust. Looks like a spark plug with 4 wires coming out of it and plugs in about 6-8 in. away.

Would this shortcut be helpful? http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut/1.htm Though that's not the same car he has, it certainly puts in pictures the idea. There is a long involved "how to" with pictures on Club Lexus of the RX done by "Lexmex".

Lexusnow- Did that explanation of code P1135 come from AZ? Where in the world did they get that? Go to the online OBD site that I gave you in the last post. Type in "Lexus" in the box on the entry page. It will take you to the Lexus specific page for P codes. P1135 for a Lexus is very specific, it says, "air/fuel ratio sensor heater circuit malfunction, B1S1". That is the rear sensor in the exhaust pipe where it comes off of the exhaust manifold. It is one of the most common sensor problems on Lexus when they get some miles on them. You have to get to it from the bottom. Getting the plug unplugged is the most difficult part, although in Iowa rust may be a real problem for you. I am NOT telling you that is the problem, only telling you that is an ACCURATE interpretation of TC P1135. Good Luck! With AZ giving you interpretations like that, you'll need it! :D Also, IF IT IS the A/F ratio sensor, I would suggestion you use ONLY DENSO as others have been problematic. A good piece of advice for free, it would be wise to take it.

I doubt very seriously that getting an original Lexus filter is going to solve your problem. The codes are a signpost , not an exact diagnosis. The sensor being bad wouldn't cause your light to come on any more than the filter would. (disclaimer for exceptions) Don't start throwing parts at it. If your temp. gauge all of a sudden isn't rising to normal, don't you think it might be related to that? Disconnect your battery to shut the lights off and clear the codes or have them cleared, and see if the same ones come back up when they come back up. Meantime, go to www.obd-codes.com and do some reading and see if you can't find the probable causes and the cure for those particular lights coming on. There is a Lexus specific page there.

The glass did exactly what it is designed to do, break into small pieces. It is called tempered glass. All of your windows are the same way, except for the windshield. That is by law required to be "safety laminated glass" (in the U.S. anyway, there used to be countries that allowed glass similar to your rear glass to be used in the windshield) The tempered glass like your rear window will shatter into a million pieces and you may get lots of tiny cuts or "nicks", but you can't get seriously cut with it. It is actually very strong glass and has to be hit just right to break. He obviously hit it just right. :o

Meiying- Do you have the ability to take a few pictures and post them. That would greatly help us in helping you. I am unfamiliar with the half moon that you are talking about. The last one I did was on an '03 and it was just like the '99 so I can't imagine that it is different. I tend to always have had a "can do" rather than a "can't do" attitude though. If you can't post the pictures, maybe you have a friend that could take and post them. Once you've done one, it's all down hill after that!

Morx300- Sorry, I don't have step by step instructions but it is so simple that you shouldn't need them. If you are used to doing mechanical work on your own vehicles, you should have no problem. If you don't do your own mechanical, you shouldn't even try this because it involves a spring compressor and removal of a dangerous part. Remove the 2 large bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle. Remove the 12MM bolt that holds the brake line to the strut. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the upper strut mount to the mounting pocket. I trust before you do any of this you have jacked the car up and put jack stands under the car and set the emergency brake. With those bolts out, you should be standing with the strut/spring assy. in your hand. Compress the spring with your choice of spring compressors, but first loosen the strut upper nut in the center of the upper strut mount. DO NOT TAKE IT OFF AT THIS POINT, only loosen half a turn. Once you have taken the pressure off the spring with the compressor so that the spring has NO pressure on the mount, finish taking the large center nut off. Simply reverse to reinstall. DO NOT ATTEMPT this if you are not mechanically experienced!!! No need to have it aligned once you're done, there is nothing for them to adjust.

They were pushing it because they make a lot of money on those warrantee's. I don't know about GE but I personally wouldn't buy an aftermarket warrantee EVER! I'm not saying there are no legitimate ones, but I can gaurantee the 1st thing they are gonna do is look under every rock to find a reason to deny payment on an aftermarket warrantee. And even if they can't get out of paying, they are gonna call the shots on how the car is fixed, if there is a problem, and it's gonna be the cheapest way possible. If the engine blows, they're gonna put in the parts that broke and no more. If they can't do that, they'll get you a cheap used engine from a junk yard. It's your money, do as you see fit with it, but if you can't get an extended factory warrantee, I'd save the money you'd spend on the GE warrantee in case you do have a problem and at least you can call the shots on how it's fixed. Good Luck! Most people don't realize that the price of even a factory extended warrantee isn't cast in stone. I have negotiated a better price on the factory extended warrantee on the last 2 new cars I bought for my wife. Then have not had 1 single thing go wrong in the warrantee period, so didn't recover a thin dime from my investment in those warrantee's. I don't intend to buy another extended warrantee. You should still have factory warrantee on that car for a while yet. My wife's '02 Camry has 5 yr or 60k mi drivetrain warrantee that I didn't even know about until I got to looking the manuals over when we got it home. They didn't say a word about it when I bought the 6yr, 75k mi extended warrantee.

I agree with the other poster. The battery has sulfated and it's very difficult to break that sulfation. Just buy a new battery, but next time your not gonna drive it for an extended period, you need to make sure the battery is FULLY charged, then disconnect it. Even then, it needs a float charger on it. If it sits outside, you can get an inexpensive solar charger from Harbor Freight for about $20. that will keep it charged. I am retired and don't drive my truck for days or even maybe a week or two at a time and I use one of the solar chargers and it keeps the battery fully charged.

You can change those parts without special tools. What is your level of mechanical experience? I would HIGHLY suggest that you go over one of the "how to" w/pictures on changing those parts though, unless you have a Lexus factory manual (not Haynes or Chilton (same thing)). You should be able to find a "how to" with a search on this or the other Lexus site. There's been plenty of discussion on the subject. Good Luck! I have the shop manual in pdf. I have been doing all the maintenance and repairs on all our cars since 1975. For example, I did the RX front pads a couple weeks ago in 30 minutes. Some of the "heavy hitters" here could probably do it in half that time. My wife's rx300 just rolled past 100k miles, so I am taking care of some maintenance I should have done a few miles back. It's been a great car with no problems what so ever. I thought I would at least need a gear puller for the crankshaft pulley. I don't have one, but I could rent one if necessary. Thanks again. Cheers to you for changing the timing belt and water pump. I had the job completed yesterday at Lexus in Eugene Oregon for 534.58, which also included $34.28 for antifreeze that should not have cost more than $20 including profit to them and the belt at $64.65 that goes for $28 at a local parts shop. Lexus replaced the water pump for $136.39, and I bet one can be purchased at the same parts shop for under $50. Where did you purchase the front pads (and rear pads) since I need to do that myself. RX Lexus in Bend Oregon It's your car and money so you may do as you wish but I can assure you from experience, Toyota/Lexus use some of the finest parts I have ever seen to build their cars. The parts that you buy at the parts store for the prices you are quoting WILL NOT likely be the quality of what T/L used to build the car, probably not even close. I have used a lot of parts from auto parts stores in my life in automotive, but after working on T/L and seeing the superiour quality they use, I would never use anything but original equipment parts on them. And you don't have to pay retail, there are plenty of places online that you can buy the original equip. parts for a LOT less that retail. And additionally, the Toyota coolant runs $32.95 a gallon, and believe it or not, it's worth it! All coolant went through the roof when crude oil went through the roof, and it didn't come down when crude came down. As with most of the stuff they use to build the T/L's, the coolant is also the finest I have ever seen. That $28. timing belt is NOT equivalent to the OEM belt, and I have one (aftermarket) to prove it, but I will say, they overcharged you above retail on both the belt and water pump.

You can change those parts without special tools. What is your level of mechanical experience? I would HIGHLY suggest that you go over one of the "how to" w/pictures on changing those parts though, unless you have a Lexus factory manual (not Haynes or Chilton (same thing)). You should be able to find a "how to" with a search on this or the other Lexus site. There's been plenty of discussion on the subject. Good Luck! I have the shop manual in pdf. I have been doing all the maintenance and repairs on all our cars since 1975. For example, I did the RX front pads a couple weeks ago in 30 minutes. Some of the "heavy hitters" here could probably do it in half that time. My wife's rx300 just rolled past 100k miles, so I am taking care of some maintenance I should have done a few miles back. It's been a great car with no problems what so ever. I thought I would at least need a gear puller for the crankshaft pulley. I don't have one, but I could rent one if necessary. Thanks again. Kpenyak- I have been into my DIL's 99RX 3 times now and though I have a gear puller, I have never had to use it. The bolt that holds the crank pulley on is TIGHT- I think about 150 ft. lbs. torque. I made a plate to bolt across the 2 bolt holes on the pulley that lodges down against the front sub-frame and even then it takes a really good tug on a breaker bar. Unless you have a compressor that puts out about 175 lbs. of pressure and a really strong impact wrench, your not gonna get it off any other way. It is standard thread and I used medium locktite on it each time I had it off to make sure it doesn't come loose. The rotation of the crankshaft would tend to loosen it, not tighten it. The cast pulley is a perfect fit on the crankshaft and I was able to pull it off with my hands when I removed the bolt. I think it's aluminum if I'm not mistaken. P.S. You'll find the water pump kinda fits up under the flange at the top, so it doesn't pull straight out.

I did clean the iacv, it didn't make a difference. It idles okay but you can tell it's not hitting on all cylinders. Didn't check vacuum lines, any one in particular that I should look for? Also the check engine light is on and starts flashing when it starts running really bad. Not sure but I think flashing is not good. I went to AutoZone to see if they could check the codes for me but said that here in Cali. they don't do that sort of thing. Should I purchase a unit to check myself, and if so is there one you would recommend? Thanks a lot for the help. You need to go to a different AZ. They quit doing the check here in Cal. (probably because some lawyer got hungry and spoiled it for everyone),but unless they have changed, they will let you use the tool (in the parking lot) and then bring it in and they will do the print out for you. If you can't find one that will do that, there are others here that can advise you on a scanner to buy. I have one but it's probably more expensive than you would want to buy. Good Luck!

You can change those parts without special tools. What is your level of mechanical experience? I would HIGHLY suggest that you go over one of the "how to" w/pictures on changing those parts though, unless you have a Lexus factory manual (not Haynes or Chilton (same thing)). You should be able to find a "how to" with a search on this or the other Lexus site. There's been plenty of discussion on the subject. Good Luck!