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CGA- Glad to hear you did it the right way- am still puzzled as to why it would work for a short while and then quit working if it was completely clean and free (no interference in motion) You did take the servo off when you cleaned it, right? It is such an incredibly simple device, other than dirt, it's hard to imagine why it would quit working after it had, when cleaned. I guess it's possible the electrical could go bad, but the coincidence is hard to comprehend. If you replace with new, no calibration needed (or when cleaned). I don't know of a reason why you would have to replace the throttle body, unless you have reason to believe there is a problem with it. Is the car one that must be driven daily? If not, and you intend to replace the IACV anyway, I would suggest taking it back apart and seeing if the valve is completely free as it should be. I'm still puzzling over the success and then failure almost immediately. You might try plugging it back onto the lead once you get it off and have someone turn the key on and see if it responds the way it is supposed to, to make sure it isn't bad electrical contact. As a matter of fact, if you have some electrical contact cleaner and lube spray, I would pull the plug off and spray that in the plug and try "resetting" (insert and retract a couple or three times) and see if that makes any difference before you take anything apart. I have seen people spend a lot of money (and time) chasing electrical gremlins, when the solution is as simple as that. (previous sentence) Good Luck! I checked my factory manual and it says: to inspect operation (with valve off but connected to plug) Have someone turn the key on while you watch operation of valve. In .5 second the valve should go from half open to fully closed, fully open and back to half open where it should have started. Be sure to do the plug "reset" and contact spray 1st.

Solace- I am assuming you had synthetic put in, for that price. Going on that assumption, I certainly don't think the filter needs to be changed at 3k mi. Maybe 5k at the earliest. The synthetic isn't going to break down or get dirty (mostly carbon) like the dino does so it shouldn't be as dirty as conventional until about twice the miles. I believe in frequent oil changes, but on the Ford Truck sites I regularly visit, there are guys who use synthetic and change it at 3k mi.- now that's just crazy! I change the filter from the top when I change my DIL's oil and that way you don't have to remove the plastic cover down below. (What you don't take off, you don't have to put back on!) It's not real easy either way, but with the right filter wrench, I prefer to change from the top. The engine needs to cool down because you're working around the exhaust manifold. For what you can buy a 5 qt. jug of synthetic and a good filter at Wal-Mart for, I would say go for it! Just don't use the "Orange Filter of Death"...Fram.

Yes, I checked the oil level and the oil is very clean. I'm going to run it, with a wait and see. Can any one suggest a good lifter additive? Thanks I can tell you I got very good results, as far as eliminating lifter noise, from a product called Engine Restore. That being said, I did not use the product on my Lexus, but on my former vehicle, a '93 Ford Explorer with the 4.0 OHV. Our Lexus engines are Overhead Cams, so lifter noise should not be as much of an issue, IMO. I would also tell you that I am a firm believer in synthetic oil. I'm running Mobil 1 5-30 plus their filter in my Lex. In my Explorer I used Castrol Syntec. I sold it to my brother-in-law two weeks ago, and with over 240,000 miles on it, the engine still did not use any appreciable amount of oil, and ran perfectly. Hey ricco I`m just curious,why are you a firm believer in synthetic oil?? Good question, and there are many reasons why I use only synthetic. Synthetic oils were developed from jet turbine technology...engines were mandated by federal regulations to continue to rotate even if shut down, and the temps at 35,000 feet are often less than -50F. Regular petroleum oil solidifies at this temp, and ceases to be a lubricant, whereas synthetics continue to flow and lubricate. On the other side of the temp scale, synthetics break down at much higher temps than petroleum oils, thus offering extended protection in an overheat situation. Also, synthetics don't "gel", a common problem with the 3.0 liter engine run with petroleum oils. Assuming you drive normally, you can change your oil at extended intervals. I remember the first time I put synthetic oil in my car...it was in 1994, in the wintertime. The low that night was about 10 degrees F, and when I went out to start my car the next morning, I was amazed at how easily it turned over...like it was 80 degrees. I was sold from that alone. I am sure there are many benefits in addition to the ones I have listed. One thing for sure, the only benefit from using petroleum oil is the cheaper price...but in my opinion it would be "penny-wise and pound-foolish" to do so. My two cents. I agree, Lexus 114- I like a man that knows why he's doing what he's doing. Very good and thorough answer. I have never used synthetic and don't feel with the quality of today's oils that it is necessary, but I use what I feel is one of the best dino's you can buy and change it and filter (always use OEM) every 3k mi. I would never bad mouth Synthetic and I have been in Springfield, Mo. in the winter (headed overseas from Ft. Leonardwood) and I understand why Ricco uses it!

CGA- How did you clean the IACV? Did you remove it and take it apart to clean it? There are those who get away with HA type of cleaning of the IACV. At least that's what I would call it- a lazy man's way of doing it. On the car and spray some cleaner in there and get results for a little while, hoping that it will work. You get the results back in proportion to the work that you put into it. I believe in doing things right the first time and not having to do it over, which means taking it off, apart, and cleaning it right. That means draining some of the coolant, since the coolant lines go through the IACV. If it worked for a little while, I can almost guarantee that if cleaned properly, it will continue to work. As for replacing it, you can buy it online for about $200. As far as changing it, drain part of the coolant and to get the 2 Phillips screws off, use an impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer) or a needle nose set of vise grips to get it loose. They are soft metal and most likely will strip before you get them loose. I used the old rubber seal (gasket) as it was in perfect condition and if you don't want to do that, must order a gasket because the IACV doesn't come with one. Good Luck in whatever you decide to do. By the way, I cleaned my DIL's and it worked perfectly, but because of a critical situation where the car was going to be 1200 mi. away for 6-8 mo., I chose to replace it to relieve stress on her.

BC- If it were a defective anti-drainback valve, it should only take 2-3 seconds for the noise to disappear, not 3-4 min. I would think Napa oil and filter should be good quality- but that's only a guess, going on Napa's reputation for quality. I know there are those who will disagree with me, but I respect their right to and I trust they will respect my mine also. I have been in automotive all my life, and though I know there are good major chain tire and oil change places that do that kind of service, but as for me, as a general rule, I wouldn't trust them to do that kind of service to my car for even emergency situations, much less on a routine basis. Waaaay to maaany stories of incompetent work by less than skilled personnel. I would at least much more trust the Lexus or Toyota dealers. Can still have bad experiences there but certainly less of a chance. It may not help at all, but I think for the price of an oil and filter change, I might at least consider having it done again at the Toyota dealer. At least if it still does it then, you know you probably need to try a GOOD lifter additive. Good luck!

Ricco- glad you were successful. I guess we all learned something from this! :)

Look carefully, and if I am not mistaken, from a post some time ago about the same thing, there should be 2 small round plugs on the footrest. take those out and you should find 2 screws that will make it a little easier to get off when you pull on it. Don't pull too hard once the screws are out... if ya know what I mean! Thanks 58, I found the round plugs...briefly tried to get them out before going to work...man, those things are in tight. I tried a pair of alligator pliers, they would not budge. I'll work on it more this evening. If anybody has a trick for getting these plugs out, please tell me! They don't unscrew do they Ricco? Sure doesn't seem like they should be that hard to get out. Last night I mixed some liquid dish detergent 50-50 with water, took a q-tip and swabbed both plugs generously. This morning I tried again to get them out, no luck. They do rotate, but they don't unscrew. At every 180 degrees of rotation, they make an audible "click". I tried pulling them out at varying degrees of rotation, same results. I'm ready for a stick of C4 ! I bet the plugs themselves don't come out. Try turning them till they click then pull the footrest off. Mikey- I think you may be on to something there! :)

Look carefully, and if I am not mistaken, from a post some time ago about the same thing, there should be 2 small round plugs on the footrest. take those out and you should find 2 screws that will make it a little easier to get off when you pull on it. Don't pull too hard once the screws are out... if ya know what I mean! Thanks 58, I found the round plugs...briefly tried to get them out before going to work...man, those things are in tight. I tried a pair of alligator pliers, they would not budge. I'll work on it more this evening. If anybody has a trick for getting these plugs out, please tell me! They don't unscrew do they Ricco? Sure doesn't seem like they should be that hard to get out.

The only reason I would know for the pedal going down farther and being spongy is there is still air in the system. I would bleed them a second time and see if that doesn't take care of the problem. There is no other reason for it to do that just from changing the rear calipers. If you do bleed them again, do just as you did the 1st time, farthest to the closest.

It's hard to imagine that it would make that kind of difference but that code was for the heater in the A/F ratio sensor and if the heater wasn't working, it would be putting more fuel into the engine (at least on that bank), and since fuel cools, that would be the end result. It is in open loop until the heater brings it into closed loop or the engine warms up enough on it's own to go into closed loop. If you're going down a hill or it's extra cold, the heater comes back on to keep it in closed loop. Without the heater, it will go into open loop and use more fuel (open loop is like the choke on, though you don't have a choke). Doesn't seem feasible, but maybe that is the answer.

Why don't you simply order the engine to match exactly what you have. That way you have a leg to stand on if it is wrong. I don't understand why you would order something different than what you have (unless it is a lower price).

Look carefully, and if I am not mistaken, from a post some time ago about the same thing, there should be 2 small round plugs on the footrest. take those out and you should find 2 screws that will make it a little easier to get off when you pull on it. Don't pull too hard once the screws are out... if ya know what I mean!

When they installed my battery yesterday, pretty basic, but they install a 9volt battery in the lighter to keep the computer and radio settings. They said if you did not do this the car wont start for 30 minutes.....I think thats wrong. "They said if you did not do this the car wont start for 30 minutes....." WHAT the Hell are they talking about???!! They better just stick to selling parts,and thats all!! :lol: :lol:

Are you sure it was oil? How often do you think they actually put oil in the crankcase instead of, let's say, ATF? If they do actually add oil, how often do you think they add he right amount and/or correct weight? I would say taking your car to Jiffy Lube is one big roll of the dice. Artbuc- since I drive a F-150 PU I frequent a couple or three of those sites. There are many many horror stories to be amazed by. I have had 1 pan plug pulled in my life that I didn't pull, and that was warrantee on a new Impala that I ordered in '62. I hope I never get to the point that I can't do it. If so I would probably use a good independent shop, NEVER a quick lube place.

RO- I see you have a 330. Don't know if that transmission is different than the earlier ones or not, but it probably wouldn't make much if any difference in what you asked about. The answer would be likely a pint but probably less than a quart.

Thank you Artbuc- I'm done now for pretty obvious reasons.

Karl, you are so correct, I tried it once because I have one of those devices and used a new "Copper Top", what I consider the gold standard for batteries and when I was done (didn't take too long), I checked the battery and was astonished that it was below 9V. I figured all it had to do was keep the memories alive- boy was I wrong! I didn't even have the ignition on! Never have figured what drained it but I had checked it before I started and it was definitely a new battery at about 9.3+V

Lenore- Not very timely, but I wanted you to know I communicated with rdragoo directly with a detailed list of tips that I hope made the job easier for him, if he has done the job. Roger thanks roger, I am going to do mine next time, especially since I did the Sequoia one. I helped my neighbor do his on the highlander when we rebuilt the engine.... Yea Lenore, but you cheated, you had that thing on an engine stand. I took all the pictures when I cut the parts that I removed from my DIL's RX apart the last time, but I still am technologically disadvantaged about thumbnailing and posting them. I wanted to share what I learned from that experience, but maybe someday when I find some of those 48 hr days. I think it would benefit some of those regulars here even as well as those coming asking for advise. If you remember, I was concerned about a squeal that had come up occasionally in the immediate time before I replaced all of those components. The squeal had nothing to do with the experience of the drive belt squeal that I had dealt with several months earlier. I hope rdragoo was able to benefit from the tips, I did it back when you mentioned I had done it (3 times, no less!). I passed along tips that I wish I had known when I did it the 1st. time. It's not really that bad (yea, I can say that now! ) I communicated with him by e-mail because the list was rather lengthy. Appreciated your post on General on F-150 online!

Jim- If I understand correctly what parts you are talking about (the thumbnail was kinda of off the edge), you normally just transfer those old parts to the new pads. And concerning how the pads work in the calipers, the pads simply ride against the rotors when the pedal isn't pressed. It would seem like they would wear out quickly that way, but somehow it seems to have worked pretty well for BILLIONS of miles. Without pressure on the pedal, there is no retraction, just no pressure against the rotor. They actually still ride against the rotor. I have seen some attempts over the years by some manufacturers to retract the pads just slightly, but I think they found out that it worked fine the way it has been since they started putting disc brakes on cars, so most of them just "let 'er ride". They would only be able to retract it a few thousanths of an inch or you would have a pedal that went down too far when you used the brakes, to get the pressure once again against the rotors. I went back again and looked at the picture and the clips DO get transfered and I think their primary purpose is probably to keep the pads from moving around slightly when the brakes are applied (yes, they could move) and causing a squeek.

radioactiveboyscout- I think I'm gonna take you at your word... and stay a long ways from you. I'm betting that you went to the parts house and got an aftermarket belt, because what Lenore was referring to in telling rdragoo to be sure and use OEM Mitsuboshi (Toyota/Lexus original equipment) belt was because they have always come with ALL pertinent marks already on the belt. Also, that they will likely long outlast the aftermarket belts. Also, the interference vs. non-interference has been beaten to death and buried a long time ago and some pretty intelligent people on this board have come to a conclusion as to what reality is in this respect. I think it best to let you newcomers think whatever you want, rather than confusing you with the facts. Ahh someone taking my advice. Wonderful! As for what Lenore was referring to ...does not completely touch on what I was suggesting. If you read my post again you will see that my suggestion is to not rely on the factory timing belt marks but to actually mark the pulleys with something more readable than the pulley's timing notches. I used white fingernail polish because it does not easily rub off or wash away. You see I find that the notches are very difficult to accurately sight with the engine marks anyway. It is also unlikely the pulley timing marks will line up with engine marks anyway. And unless the individual want to set the engine to TDC, which of course isn't absolutely necessary but highly recommended, the pulley notches may not be even be pointing at the belt. Sighting the pulley marks is especially difficult when the engine is transverse mounted with one bank of cylinders against the firewall. Keep in mind that when you remove the factory belt the timing paint on it is usually worn away. If they were present they are also very unlikely to land directly on the notches in the pulley. Again, by marking the old belt and pulley you can then check the old belt against new and transfer marks if necessary. By transferring marks or at least lining the belts up to see that you didn't buy the wrong one you will be more likely to get the new belt back on the pulleys in the exact place the old one came from. Also, I would not assume that everyone visiting this forum is going to buy OEM. As most people will not, it is pertinent to transfer the marks yourself. Since this forum is about passing along information to all people and not just people that are determined to buy OEM parts I thought I would mention that detail. As far as intelligent people concluding one thing or another. I find that the intelligence of a debater can never be used as evidence to whether something is correct or incorrect. I give you one very famous example. Albert Einstein, the father of modern physics and arguably an intelligent man could not, would not, refused to believe many of the assertions of quantum mechanics. Turns out he was wrong. Not judging what side of the camp you sit on I would be appreciative of any information that lends evidence to whether the 99 RX300 is interference or not. The majority of the research I have done indicates it is not. And I would like readers of this forum to know that I sit in that camp. Being the true skeptic that I am if someone can present evidence to me otherwise I have been known to change my mind. Thanks for pointing out that I was not completely clear with my suggestion. RABS- Am still scratching my head about your statements about the timing marks (both on the belts and on the gears). I have had all of that area apart 3 times on my DIL's RX and not once found that any of the marks were anywhere but where they should be. There were reasons why I have had it apart 3 times (over 30k mi.) that had nothing to do with the work that was done. (developed an occasional squeal at 27k mi. on the new belt) Not wanting my DIL to have problems with it because she lives a very busy life and needs the car, I went back in and replaced W/P, top and bottom idler or tension pulleys and the belt. Never did discover what the occasional squeal was but I suspicion what it was. I replaced the "Goodyear Gatorback" belt that I installed at 97k mi. because I wasn't happy with what it looked like (the original belt looked better at 97k mi.), hence my feeling about using aftermarket parts. I turned the crank to TDC before I started, just as the factory manual says to and ALL marks lined up just as they are supposed to. That way, I don't have to mark anything before I remove it. I am also curious as to whether you have done a survey on what people use for a replacement timing belt or if you just made that assumption. Lastly, I would suggest you go to the "Gates" online reference chart concerning these specific years of the RX with the 1MZ-FE engine and tell me what it says. There has been a lot of confusion on this subject (interference vs non-interference), but I'm wondering if you are willing to take responsibility (as you should) for someone losing an engine should they break a timing belt when they took your firm position as gospel. That's something to think about.

Lenore: you are probably correct. Has anyone had / or had someone they know have / an interference engine problem in a RX300 because of a failed timing belt? Paul- I believe I have asked that question before and not gotten an answer. I truly wish if someone had that they would post their experience. PLEASE understand that this is the RX with the 1MZ-FE engine. I have read of other Lexus TB's braking, but not 1MZ-FE in the RX. Refer to GATES site for "interference or non-interference engines" It lists those particular engines as INTERFERENCE. Only talking about the RX ('98 build as a '99-up) with the 1MZ-FE engine which is VVTi.

Lenore- Not very timely, but I wanted you to know I communicated with rdragoo directly with a detailed list of tips that I hope made the job easier for him, if he has done the job. Roger

Thanks for posting that tutorial link Lenore. I haven't been feeling to hot lately and I guess it comes through in some of my replies. A lot of stress involved.

radioactiveboyscout- I think I'm gonna take you at your word... and stay a long ways from you. I'm betting that you went to the parts house and got an aftermarket belt, because what Lenore was referring to in telling rdragoo to be sure and use OEM Mitsuboshi (Toyota/Lexus original equipment) belt was because they have always come with ALL pertinent marks already on the belt. Also, that they will likely long outlast the aftermarket belts. Also, the interference vs. non-interference has been beaten to death and buried a long time ago and some pretty intelligent people on this board have come to a conclusion as to what reality is in this respect. I think it best to let you newcomers think whatever you want, rather than confusing you with the facts.

AznMechanic- I'm gonna ask one last time and then I'm gonna stay out of this. DO YOU HAVE AWD OR FWD? If FWD, I don' think you have a transfer case, only transaxle. The drain plug for the transaxle is easy to find. It's on the bottom area of the transaxle- is also an Allen. Transaxle is fed the 1/2 qt. or so through the dipstick hole AUTOMATICALLY. At 46k mi., in my opinion it should not need those fluids changed (unless your owners manual recommends it, which I doubt.) (TC gear oil and rear axle oil, IF YOU HAVE AWD.)