code58

You didn't say how many miles are on your RX, or if you bought it new. There are several ways you can do it. Since it has a drain plug, unlike most AT's today, you can simply pull the plug, drain and fill the pan. The problem is that only changes about 4 qts. and doesn't change the filter. I don't believe the filter needs to be changed every time you change the fluid. I personally prefer to pull the cooler line and pump it all out and change the filter about every 30k mi. but most seem to choose going the easy way which is simple pan drain and fill about every 15k mi. That's one man's opinion and I'm sure you'll get others. You'll get different opinions on this also, but I believe the OEM T-IV is adequate and will give you good service. I would NOT have a flush done. Some people have no problem with a flush, but I have read of too many who have had tranny problems soon after a flush (of all makes), I believe because of debris that gets moved into critical valve areas that otherwise would have been no problem. No flush for me! My car has about 46000milles on it. Transmission fluid was changed around 32000miles by lexus and I heard a lot about lexus transmission failures so I decided to go around 15000miles intervals. What do you mean pull the cooler line and pump it all out? How do you do that? Also how are most AT's today? They are not drain plugs? Then what are they now? Also should i buy 80W-90 gear oil and change the differential fluid and transfer case as well? Thanks a lot!!! AZnM- How does your fluid look? With that low of miles, and having been changed at 32k, I wouldn't be so inclined to tell you that it needs a complete change. If the fluid is brown at all, maybe so, but if it is quite pink yet, you may be fine with 15k mi. drains, that's up to you. I don't know if the later ones (noticed your is a '05) have the trans. problems that the earlier ones did, I'm sure they had a chance to learn from their mistakes by then. You also didn't say whether it is front wheel drive or all wheel drive (FWD-AWD) I don't think the FWD had the problems that the AWD did because there was more strain on the AWD. You should have a drain plug (takes a LARGE allen wrench) on the trans. pan. Most trans. pans haven't had drain plugs for a long time. You lucked out. If you have AWD, you should have another drain plug on the front transfer case, drain that also, only holds about 1/2 qt. from what I remember. It's common with the trans fluid, but must be drained separate. I don't honestly remember about front gearing, if there is any 80W-90 used there or not. There is in the rear but didn't even change it at over 100k mi. on my DIL's RX, because when I pulled the plug it came gushing out (was actually overfull) and looked brand new. I personally would pretty much go by the manual as far as changes on the gear oil because so many of them use synthetic now and don't even call for a change. I don't run high miles on my vehicles now (like I used to in my younger days- 25k mi. a year), and have never actually changed gear oil. Be sure you don't put gear oil in the front case where it is fed from the trans. That would be a mess. A lot of cars now use trans. fluid in the transfer case and even in manual trans. You drain the front case of that 1/2 qt. but you don't have to fill it, it is fed from the tranny. Double check that, but my DIL's '99RX was that way. If you decide you want to pump it all out, refer to my reply to Artbuc. Good Luck! Thanks a lot for the info but are you positive that the transfer case is fed by the tranny? because I looked at my manual's chassis section and it says transfer holds 1qt SAE 90 or SAE 80W or SAE 80W-90. Also should I take the pan down and change the filter and all? Would that be a flush? thanks a lot in advance!!! Sorry AznMechanic- I probably should have said transaxle. You never have said whether you have FWD or AWD. The AWD should have a transfer case that takes the power to the rear wheels. The transfer case should take SAE 80W-90 as shoiuld the rear axle. The transaxle shares the T-IV with the transmission. At least that's the way it is on my DIL's '99RX. There is a second plug to drain the transaxle (you'll only get about a half qt. out and you fill it in common with the transmission through the trans. fill hole where the dipstick goes. If you have a FWD, you may not have the need for the SAE 80W-90 in the front. The reason it is so confusing (the 1 I'm familiar with is my DIL's '99RX which is AWD), is when I did a search to try and figure the nomenclature, after reading scores of posts, they seemed to be as confused about what the nomenclature (even got a different answer from almost every every Toyota and Lexus mechanic they talked to) was at the end as when they started. Best thing I can tell you is FOLLOW YOUR MANUAL once you are sure which you have, AWD vs FWD. Pan and filter is simply pan and filter- that's not a flush. That has to be done with a machine and I personally recommend against it. Under your circumstances, I would say you are probably OK with just the drain and fill (no filter or pan drop because of as new as it is and as few miles as you have) Remember, they made changes to the later ones that should cause you not to have the worries of the older ones anyway. Should take 4 qts. or so if done that way.

Natsibley- Do you have anyone in your area who ALSO does the free code read? A reader that comes up with codes that actually exist. That's not the 1st time they have come up with codes that are unusable- also code deciphering nomenclature that doesn't make sense. I have an Auto-Xray 6000 that I like because it gives you an onscreen explanation with the code.

That's what puzzled me Karl. My DIL had an Acura before the RX and I know that used a special tool, I believe it was to back off the emergency brake adjustment or possibly adjust it also, but I have done rear pads on her RX so I knew it didn't require a special tool. Thanks for the clarification. I guess the difference is the Acura actually applied the pads with emergency application and the RX applies the emergency shoes on the interior of the rotor.

I can't even find a P1160. Have you been able to find it anywhere? (other than AAP) Some of the stuff that AZ and AAP come up with is puzzling to say the least.

Brix- No, the fluid moves FROM the master cylinder, not back to it. In drum brakes, it did move a little bit back to the MC from the wheel cylinders but with discs, there is virtually NO movement back because the pads ride against the rotors and there is nothing to retract them like the springs in drum brakes. They ride against the rotors all the time, and are just PRESSED against the rotors by the master cylinder pressure when you apply the brakes. Different animal than drum brakes. I have no idea what the guy at Orielly's was talking about (and I'm not sure he did either). I have changed them on the rear of my DIL's '99RX and it certainly didn't require any special tool. That's why I told you to do it the way I did, when the piston is retracted all the way BEFORE you ever take the 1st. bolt out, when you take the caliper off and remove the old, you're all set to install the new. I've been doing mechanical work for over 50 yrs. and it's not theory I'm sharing, It's experience. They way I explained is the EASIEST way that I have ever found to do it, and IT DOES WORK. Good Luck!

:) XXX

Jim- not sure exactly what you're referring to concerning the pad support plates unless you talking about the thin shim like plates that maybe clamp onto the back of the pads. Just transfer if that's what you're talking about. I think they are actually SS noise eliminators. One thing to remember is always only do 1 side at a time, that way you have the other side to refer to if you get puzzled about how something goes. And be sure to pump the brakes 2 or 3 times when you're done with everything to bring the pads solidly against the rotor, before you even turn the key. More than one person has had the surprise of their life when the 1st time they hit the brakes, they went to the floor because the pistons weren't extended.

You didn't say how many miles are on your RX, or if you bought it new. There are several ways you can do it. Since it has a drain plug, unlike most AT's today, you can simply pull the plug, drain and fill the pan. The problem is that only changes about 4 qts. and doesn't change the filter. I don't believe the filter needs to be changed every time you change the fluid. I personally prefer to pull the cooler line and pump it all out and change the filter about every 30k mi. but most seem to choose going the easy way which is simple pan drain and fill about every 15k mi. That's one man's opinion and I'm sure you'll get others. You'll get different opinions on this also, but I believe the OEM T-IV is adequate and will give you good service. I would NOT have a flush done. Some people have no problem with a flush, but I have read of too many who have had tranny problems soon after a flush (of all makes), I believe because of debris that gets moved into critical valve areas that otherwise would have been no problem. No flush for me! My car has about 46000milles on it. Transmission fluid was changed around 32000miles by lexus and I heard a lot about lexus transmission failures so I decided to go around 15000miles intervals. What do you mean pull the cooler line and pump it all out? How do you do that? Also how are most AT's today? They are not drain plugs? Then what are they now? Also should i buy 80W-90 gear oil and change the differential fluid and transfer case as well? Thanks a lot!!! AZnM- How does your fluid look? With that low of miles, and having been changed at 32k, I wouldn't be so inclined to tell you that it needs a complete change. If the fluid is brown at all, maybe so, but if it is quite pink yet, you may be fine with 15k mi. drains, that's up to you. I don't know if the later ones (noticed your is a '05) have the trans. problems that the earlier ones did, I'm sure they had a chance to learn from their mistakes by then. You also didn't say whether it is front wheel drive or all wheel drive (FWD-AWD) I don't think the FWD had the problems that the AWD did because there was more strain on the AWD. You should have a drain plug (takes a LARGE allen wrench) on the trans. pan. Most trans. pans haven't had drain plugs for a long time. You lucked out. If you have AWD, you should have another drain plug on the front transfer case, drain that also, only holds about 1/2 qt. from what I remember. It's common with the trans fluid, but must be drained separate. I don't honestly remember about front gearing, if there is any 80W-90 used there or not. There is in the rear but didn't even change it at over 100k mi. on my DIL's RX, because when I pulled the plug it came gushing out (was actually overfull) and looked brand new. I personally would pretty much go by the manual as far as changes on the gear oil because so many of them use synthetic now and don't even call for a change. I don't run high miles on my vehicles now (like I used to in my younger days- 25k mi. a year), and have never actually changed gear oil. Be sure you don't put gear oil in the front case where it is fed from the trans. That would be a mess. A lot of cars now use trans. fluid in the transfer case and even in manual trans. You drain the front case of that 1/2 qt. but you don't have to fill it, it is fed from the tranny. Double check that, but my DIL's '99RX was that way. If you decide you want to pump it all out, refer to my reply to Artbuc. Good Luck!

Hi Artbuc- from what I remember the line you want to take of is the drivers side, bottom of the radiator. Remove the clamp and put a 3/8 hose (I use a clear plastic) on the tube that comes out of the radiator. Put that in a jug, bucket or drain pan, whatever will hold a few qts. of fluid. What I did was drain and remove the pan and change the filter first and once having replaced the pan, fill with about 4 qts. of fluid. If you have help, have them start the car and as soon as you see the 1st. sign of air have them shut it off. Refill the trans. pan with 4 more qts. of fluid and do the same thing a 2nd. time. You know it holds less than 10 qts. TOTAL so you're almost done. When you fill the pan for the 3rd time, you should be able to tell your helper to shut it off when you see clean fluid come through, because this time you won't be pumping the pan dry. Some have worried about running the pump dry, it is all bathed in oil, I don't think there is any chance of doing any damage since it is shut off while it is still bathed. This changes the complete system, including TC, because it is drawn from the pan and since your return line isn't hooked up, there is no return of dirty fluid. I have actually done it this way alone when no one was available to help, by just watching the output of dirty fluid and running to shut off at the 1st hint of air. The amount of fluid to fill completely pretty much matches the manuals "dry" fill figure, so I know I'm changing it ALL. I much prefer this method to change it all at 1 time since they quit putting drain plugs in TC's. (My '99 F-150 was the last vehicle I've owned that had a TC drain plug).

Potato - Pohtahto contaminated fluid isn't an issue with proper fluid maintanence, and if it is the rear the fluid will probably not make it back to the master cylinder due to the length of the brake lines. I never said anything about prying on a disk because that's not a good idea, he may have Agreed with the C-Clamp or a caliper tool that they sell at trash auto to push on the old pad I don't agree with the bleeder method for someone who is posting the question on a message board to see how difficult a brake job is, I've been turning wrenches for a long time and you can't tell me that you did it that way on every single customers car, most times it's rip it apart, machine the rotors and slap it back together as quick as possible to slurp up all that gravy and move on to the next job. If you did it that way on every single job I'll give you more credit than probably 90% of the rest of the techs out there and I've known many. Not disagreeing with the method at all, it's sound but there is still a chance of someone else (not us) introducing air into the system. Again not disagreeing with the method, I'm just disagreeing with advising an unseasoned individual to do it, no offense to the original poster, you may have more experience than I'm giving you credit for. It's neither here nor there if you are somewhat mechanically inclined and you have basic tools you can do this brake job easily. Well, Brix certainly has at least different views to choose from or be confused by. I hope not, Brix. I did not do brake work professionally but did work in automotive all my life and am meticulous about my work. My wife probably would raise an eyebrow, but I used to be a perfectionist and am now a recovering perfectionist. I have tried to retain the good side of perfectionism (high quality) while moving on from the bad side (difficult to please). I do know what I'm doing (have done it for way too long!) and while respecting different views than mine, I stand by my original answers to Brix. Concerning the Bold, not gonna happen as long as the cap is left LOOSE. Good Luck Brix with whatever you decide! :)

what's so wrong with pushing the fluid back upstream, it is a negligible amount of fluid and if proper fluid maint has been done or will be done later in regards to flushing then there is no need to open the bleeder. If you open the bleeder with one hand try and compress the piston on the caliper with the other hand and close the bleeder before you introduce air into the system I think you might want to reconsider. with every car or truck that I've ever done a brake job on I've always used the old pad as something to put 2 flat screw drivers on like a scissor jack and just slowly compressed the piston enough to make room for the new pads. I'm not familiar with the abs system with the rx but pushing fluid backwards in the system really hasn't been an issue for the last 15 years at least on most other manufacturers. If I'm wrong enlighten me. unless you have a bad pulsation when braking you won't need to machine the rotors, keep in mind though if the rotors are not machined the pads will take a little longer to seat in to the rotor because of potential grooves etc.... In answer to your question Speedemon, I quit pushing the fluid back upstream a long time ago when it pushed a proportioning valve off center and I had a dickens of a time getting it recentered. I don't frankly know if they still use a proportioning valve, but I no longer have to worry about it. No chance of that when you open the bleeder valve. And also, with the bleeder open and no one stepping on the pedal, gravity will keep air from entering the system anyway. (at least until your master cylinder is empty- ) What if the person has kept the master cylinder full or nearly full as they should? Then in order to push the fluid back upstream, you have to suction some out or your going to overflow the MC. My question is: why not let it out the bleeder when it is so much easier and has NO down sides? I do the same thing you do but with 1 large screw driver (preferably the kind with the very broad bent end used for prying), except for letting the fluid out the bleeder. Quicker and simpler for the reasons stated. Now I ask you- why not? For the past 20 yrs. I have not found an adequate answer to that question. :)

You didn't say how many miles are on your RX, or if you bought it new. There are several ways you can do it. Since it has a drain plug, unlike most AT's today, you can simply pull the plug, drain and fill the pan. The problem is that only changes about 4 qts. and doesn't change the filter. I don't believe the filter needs to be changed every time you change the fluid. I personally prefer to pull the cooler line and pump it all out and change the filter about every 30k mi. but most seem to choose going the easy way which is simple pan drain and fill about every 15k mi. That's one man's opinion and I'm sure you'll get others. You'll get different opinions on this also, but I believe the OEM T-IV is adequate and will give you good service. I would NOT have a flush done. Some people have no problem with a flush, but I have read of too many who have had tranny problems soon after a flush (of all makes), I believe because of debris that gets moved into critical valve areas that otherwise would have been no problem. No flush for me!

Brix- It's an easy job. Maybe even have your wife do it on her lunch hour. LOL Seriously, she probably could do it. Don't worry about turning the rotors, unless they are really chewed up. I believe there is 1 bolt to remove and the caliper will pivot up off the rotor on the pin, which is the second thing that holds the caliper. I would suggest that you use a box wrench to loosen the bleed screw, I think it is 8MM, not sure. Put something under the screw to catch the fluid, maybe a rag or paper towels. Use a large screw driver between the caliper and the rotor, in the opening in the middle of the caliper, on the inboard side of the rotor. When you're in position with the screw driver, open the bleed screw with one hand while you force the caliper inboard with the other hand. Immediately when the caliper bottoms out, close the bleed screw. That way you're not pushing the fluid back upstream (not good) and you can remove the old pads and insert the new pads. Make sure you put the anti-squeek or whatever they give you with the pads on the shim or back of the pads, if no shim. Swing the caliper back in place and insert bolt. make sure master cylinder is full of appropriate fluid and press the brakes a couple of times to bring the pads in contact with the rotor. That way, no need for bleeding. You're done, and enjoy your vacation!

Do you know what pre-detonation sounds like? (spark knock) If that is what it is it may be that your knock sensor(s) needs to be replaced. If it is spark knock, that's not good because that can damage your engine. Have you had a check engine light come on? I would definitely get the codes (or pending codes checked) I wouldn't drive it far that way .

PB- I can't tell you from personal experience, but it has to be on the right firewall (outside) because it has to be in the immediate area of the evaporator. It can sometimes be a little hard to see because of the inner fender skirt, possibly easier to see from the bottom, with the car jacked up (with stands under it!). Don't know if removal of the inner fender skirt would get you to it or not. Be sure when you deal with the leak that the carpet is dried out completely or you may have some nasty health- hazard mold growing soon. Good Luck!

DR- you are so right! I noticed that about a year and a half ago. They have a place on obd-codes site to e-mail a correction if you find a mistake. I started to do it and don't remember now if I completed it or got distracted. The information must all come from the same source and so they all have the same mistake. I wouldn't be surprised if those sites don't have the resources to make the changes or even monitor them adaquately. By the way, if I haven't already said it in another post, you are absolutely correct, that is B2S1, the front one that is really easy to change. Since it is easy to remove, it is also easy to test the heater circuit, since that is what P1155 refers to. The 2 black wires, should even be able to check continuity because the "fail" is generally a break in the element. If "0" resistance, would also tell you what you need to know. You wouldn't even have to remove it to make those tests. If that is the failure, it should have very little effect on running.

Drmull- I hate to do this to you, but since no one has answered yet, and I am not sure what the solution is, I suggest you go to www.obd-codes.com There is a tremendous amount of information there. They have links to forums and I can guarantee you will find helpful information there, it just takes some digging sometimes. There is a Lexus specific page for the codes from P1100 to P 1780. Good Luck!

Lenore- Did you realize that was ukfan4sure's thread from a year ago? :D no I didnt, was a long day yesterday, too tired to notice....thanks code 58 Been there, done that Lenore. Think nothing of it, you did the right thing by trying to help!

Thanks for the "clue" on the Lexuz forum. More importantly, thanks for the answer. I would have hoped you could sense from my tone that I had just paid close to $250 for them to give me conflicting information about which sensor they replaced, after TELLING "the nice young gal" I had already replaced bank 2's cam sensor due to a P1350 code. The reason I stated "nice young gal" is that when I questioned her about which bank, she immediately went into defensive mode as if I was picking on her intelligence/knowledge because she was a woman. I could care less if she was a Vulcan from StarTrek as long as she fixes my car. I've had problems with this car since I first purchased it. Nothing but frustations with this situation; period. I know this is not typical of Lexus products, but I can only speak to MY experiences. When your wife would rather drive the Jeep Wrangler than your plush Lexus, you know you have a right to call it a POS. We can't trust this car and it looks like the dealership is only going to swap parts (if they actually know bank 1 from bank 2) until their 401K's allow retirement or I sell it, whichever comes first. So the paperwork says P1350, bank 2 and SHE tells me it's the REAR closest to the firewall. She also is "99% sure" this will fix my problem. Well, bank 2 is the FRONT, so now I'm feeling crapped on as I suspected would happen all along by going to a dealer where the technician reads some obscure stored code data from who knows what caused by who knows what. The engine sensing a screw up in the cam timing could be caused by a miriad of things it seems to me. Maybe a loss in fuel pressure causing the engine to stumble? Anyhow, looks like I have yet another Lexus fight on my hands, but this time with the dealership. Sorry if in my anger and 2 years worth of insecurity with this car I offended anyone here. But personally, I'll NEVER own another Lexus..... UK- believe me, I understand your frustration. And from me to you, it is valid. Just that when we type something like this in the heat of the frustration, it often becomes counterproductive. Artbuc & Lenore (as well as UK fan), you understand when I started working in the dealership on Sat. and summer vacation when I was in my teens, I decided right then, if I couldn't do better than what people payed good money to have done professionally, I would give up driving and walk. I have known some really outstanding mechanics over the years, but all too many of the rest made me embarrassed to be in the automotive field. It is one of the major reasons I have done my own work ALL my life and try and help anyone who needs the help and doesn't know where to go to get it done right, because I don't know most of the time where to tell them either. I truly feel for the people who have no idea or are unable to do the work themselves. It's one of the reasons I reach out to them.

Lenore- Did you realize that was ukfan4sure's thread from a year ago? :D

UK fan- Just a small clue- this is a Lexuz forum- most of the people here like their Lexus, even though they may not always be happy with them when they're having problems with them. You would experience a lot more success in finding help with a more respectful approach to you question. You catch a lot more of WHATEVER you want to catch with honey than vinegar. The choice is yours. In response to your question- you are absolutely right, P1350 is VVT sensor circuit malfunction, bank 2, which is the front one, which you said you already changed. IF they in fact changed the rear one, that should have been P1345. A whole lot of guys who are service writers don't know what they're talking about, I suspect fewer gals do. Don't throw rocks at me, that's not a slam at ANYONE who is a writer who does, just my experience after way too many years working for dealers that writers are SALESPEOPLE, not technicians and know very little about what they are actually selling, which is SERVICE.

Try Auto-RX, Don't believe all the hype on their site, but it is an excellent product and will clean the inside of the engine up, including rings. Not cheap, but a lot cheaper than the alternatives. Use it for a couple of oil changes. Do a search on the Lexus forums and see with pictures what it has done in cleaning gunked up engines.

Do you have the code and can you post it here?

' Great advice Lenore, I sometimes wonder why Bosch (and others) even make sensors for Toyota products (and probably some others). I wouldn't even consider buying anything but Denso for T/L.

FZ6- Lexus factory manual says bleed REAR 1st. Start at the farthest wheel and work you way to the closest one. Lexus manual says bleed rear 1st or the front can't be bleed. Not my word, Toyota's.