aarman4

Bigbuggie, the VERY first bit fo maintenance I did on my Lex when I got it 5 months ago was that exact job, and let me tell you, I felt the same way. My owners manual in front of me has 4 steps (get one of these from Ebay if you don;t have it yet)..... Step 1 and 2 is for removing the back carpeted panel inside the trunk. It shows 2 large fitting pieces (one on each side) at the top, and 4 smaller ones along the piece just below the lip of the trunk...........Step 3: take the two screws out. When you are standing at the trunk looking in, they will be towards the side of the car rather than at the back of the car. It shows only 2 of them. Final step 4 jiust has the housing removed, so if you have done all of that, give it a few good thumps with the palm of your hand while at the side of the car, direccting your blow towards the rear of the car, and they should come loose. Mine were tough, I remember. Makes you wantto replace all of the bulbs while you are there. Good luck!

moment

I figured the clip out! It is the funniest shaped thing for the job, but that intake plenum piece is actually2-pieces, and the 2 ends of that clip go through some holes, one on each end. it holds the circular portion to the small rectangular shaped intake attachment.

it looks to me liek you are having trouble starting the car, but it is very hard to tell with no sound in the video.

I would go back and double check and make sure all of your connections to your distributor are good, and make sure everything was assembled properly when it was done. It sounds like you might have a cylinder which is not firing. If everything is hooked up properly, I wonder if it is possible that a plug wire may have been damaged during it's disconnection/reconnection to the distributor maybe as well. Good luck!

Code 28 - Right main bank O2 sensor signal Were the new O2 sensors OEM or universal? Reason being is I ordered a Universal and I checked the resistance of it before installation, and it was above what the www.lexls.com website said was appropriate resistance value for that O2 sensor. I ordered an OEM sensor and the resistance was dead-on where it should be. I would first try to reset all codes again, maybe even leave the negative terminal off the battery for a couple hours to be sure. Next I would pull the Right side O2 sensor and measure the resistance of it. If the resistance is outside of wher it should be, I would remedy that. If the resistance is fine, I would make sure and triple check over and make sure that the new O2 sensors were wired correctly, and that the connections were put together properly as well. If everything is good up to here, I am unsure what to do next. Good luck!

Plymouth

Is there a chance that your traction control system detected a slip and cut power on you?

A bunch of asses, lol. Actually Eatingupblacktop, thats a brilliant idea. Guess the wife can just play with the buttons now that her mem2 has become my "all the way back" button !!!!

I don't mean to sound like an !Removed!, but I think the easiest way would be to put a post-it note on your steering wheel so when youget in you remember to do it. It is VERY dangerous for it to activate while driving as it could move you away from your brake pedal, or push you into your steering wheel while driving, and that would be very bad.

If you ball-joints and any part of your suspension are worn, especially to the point of clunking, your tires will show it. Although when my balljopints needed replacing, the damage was on the innner-edge of the tire, not the outer. Until your suspension is tight and secure, your tires will wear improperly. I hope this link helps you out! Tire Wear patterns

Your Ls is slowing down as it should with the overdrive turned off. When I want to use "engine breaking", I turn the overdrive off. At 45 MPH, that is exactly what I would expect.

Jcrome, being from Vancouver I totally know what you mean by the rain, but being in a winter zone now, let me tell you it isn;t too bad back there, lol... LOVE the pimp-glasses, mine have gold rims though B)

I think you should make sure the hood is in fair condition first.... i would think an electrical fire "on the top of the engine" might be just as easily remedied as doing a full swap....somethign to look into.

I think 90-92 are all on the dash and 93+ are part of the cluster. mine is 91 and it is not digital and it is part of the dash.

Exactly! I used the seatbelt warning bulb... Personally, I know when my seatbelt is on and when it isn't... I also later on got a great deal on ebay for a full bezel for the instrument cluster of my LS, it came with all the bulbs as well for 12$ total... Maybe keep an eye out for that and the you have bulbs for life.

Take a look inside of your owners manual if you have one ;) Your fuse cover may also have a map on it telling you which fuse is which.

my seat heaters work but it takes roughly 7 or 8 minutes before they get very warm, after that, it's nice.

I just cleaned mine yesterday... It was nasty, I couldn;t even see the screwheads on it! I used a brush, well, a couple brushes and I am very happy with the results of it. There is no need to push hard on it python, if that is what you are worried about with scratching and what not. I didn;t take a before pic, so an after-pic is really useless, lol... Now I just have to wait for my transborder package to come in from ParkPlace Lexus....It has my gasket in it.. Pretty awesome eh? I priced out my parts up here, and then priced them with parkplace in texas.... Even with $112 bill for shipping to Canada, it still works out cheaper than buying parts fromt he stealers up here on the prairies...

I wish someone had a version with the sound and video matched up the way it was meant to be, still cool though.

just make sure that some how tag or mark the new cluster at what the mileage was when you installed it on the dcar, and what it was at on the new guage when it was installed.

My 1992 LS400 came with 15's, but i have heard up to 18 will fit easily.... If youw ant to keep the smooth ride quality you mght not want to go that big, but for looks, the bigger the better ;)

I change my oil based on manufacturers recommendation in the book, plain and simple. I have to agree with mburnicklas that even the manual is overcautious about when to change oil, but that doesn;t matter to me... They're recommendations are there to ensure longevity, and good longevity at that, so if it is overcautious I am fine with that, as I am sometime overcautious with my vehicles as well... (not scared, don;t get me wrong). The one thing alot of people haven't touched on in this thread is time between changes rather than always discussing miles//kilometers only. Back in my younger days as a "Jet mechanic"(oooooooo, aaaaaaaa) we changed oil everytime our check sheets told us to. There was never room for "letting it go longer because it could". Transport Canada, the FAA, JAA, as well as engine manufacturers like GE, Rolls Royce, and Pratt all want the oil changed at a very conservative time limit because it is the best defense against catastrophy in the sky (Turbine bearing failure). I understand this is different than vehicles, but the fundamentals are the same. Use what the manufacturer recommends (and they recommend by mil spec, not brand....there is mill spec on the back of auto-oil as well), and change it whent he manufacturer recommends changing it. UOA tests as you call them were commonplace, but we never got to review the readings. The results were sent to higher-ups, as well as the engine manufacturers.

That'd be awesome jcrome, see if I am missing something here... what do you have still with your stock intake and are you keeping it all?(trying not to hijack my own thread, lol...)

"just fearful I may be dumping deposits through out engine by using valero " Doesn't this answer your own question? i cannot speak for the US, but I imagine it is similar as it is here in Canada. All fuel being sold should be of good quality and be regulated in some form or another by one or many government agencies. i am sure the fuel they sell is not necissarily bad for your vehicle. Being someone who worked in the fuel industry, I would recommend you take the time to "peak" at the practices of the local station you want to use, as this will impact the quality of fuel you get more than anything... things to look for: Age of station/tanks Do they water check on a regulare daily basis or more? Do they test from the truck before putting it in their tanks?(you can ask them) When you see the trucks, do they look tip top, or so-so, or like crap? Are the pumps kept up or are they dirty and unmaintained? All of these things will give you a good idea of the practice of the station in regards to how they treat their product. In Canada here, I know of one company with VERY high standards for fuel quality and high standards they set for stations to keep the company name up, and i also know of some that are very lax in this. the choice is yours, but those re the things i would look for.