monarch

I'd get all 3 and then get the 4th genuine Toyota strut you need from 1sttoyotaparts.com for 28% off the retail price and possibly even below the price your local dealer says "is a great deal". The part# of the front strut will be printed on the box it comes in. In the unlikely event 1sttoyotaparts.com cannot get the extra front strut you need then since you have the part# you can search the Parts Dept inventories of Toyota and Lexus dealers nationwide online at partsvoice.com. If you do that online search you are virtually guaranteed to find the extra front strut you need.

My point is Toyota knows how to make I4's smooth enough to be appropriate for luxury cars like the Camry XLE . In a 1980 issue of Consumer Reports the magazine's testers said the 4 cylinder 20R engine / A40 automatic transmission combination in a Luxury Edition Toyota Corona they tested delivered a smooth, quiet driving experience comparable to an American V8. Likewise the late model Camry / Scion 2AZ-FE 4 cylinder has near V6 levels of noise, vibration and harshness because it has dual balance shafts: http://www.clubsciontc.com/modules.php?nam...le=print&sid=23

Another illustration of the exceptional toughness and durability of even the Toyota 4 cylinder engines and transmissions is their ability to haul around a 6,500 pound Motorhome chassis for 100,000+ miles. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...5829&indexURL=1

Yes there has been a consistent pattern on this forum that the older owners with extensive American car vs Toyota ownership experience plus American car vs Toyota mechanical component tear down experience appreciate the superior mechanical component quality of a Toyota compared to any American car. We understand that in the rare cases a Toyota component has problems (e.g. the oil leaks of the 1st generation LS400 power steering system) it's not because Toyota built the component out of cheap materials or low standards of workmanship, it's almost always because of some minor issue that wasn't forseen during engineering development and testing and is easily mitigated. In the case of the early LS power steering system, for example, the engineers didn't realize the steering rack solenoid filter screen would become blocked after 5-10 years of service causing high fluid pressures and resultant fluid leaks. This was the first Toyota power steering system to ever use a solenoid. Savvy owners who simply keep their solenoid screens and power steering fluid clean can enjoy great durability from the system. The other owners wrongly conclude "my LS400 power steering fluid leaks are proof that Toyotas are overrated and not really mechanically more reliable and durable than American cars."

Here is what car reviewers typically say about the Lincoln Town Car: * Often sold at huge discounts from sticker price * Depreciates rapidly * Heavy rental fleet sales and delivery use undermine premium status of brand with consumers If, in recent decades, the Lincoln Town car or any other American luxury car had been close to consistently delivering the powertrain reliability durability of a Toyota / Lexus then I think none of the above would be true. Nor do I think the following be true of the stock prices of GM and Ford vs Toyota http://www.saber.net/~monarch/GM.jpg http://www.saber.net/~monarch/F.jpg because Toyota would not have gained much market share if American cars were competitive in reliability and durability.

This is the product and procedure Toyota recommends http://www.saber.net/~monarch/tbclean.jpg To get the throttle plate and walls of the throttle body as clean as Blake's, I use a toothbrush + microfiber towels soaked in this cleaner (or carburetor cleaner) after removing the air intake duct. Removing the throttle body is really not necessary.

To the contrary, Toyota built its worldwide reputation for durability based on the 600,000 mile capability of its high winding 4 cylinder engines. It has taken the Asian car makers 30 years to break down the MYTH established by American car makers that small sized high winding engines can't be extremely durable. Here are some Toyota 4 cylinder owner testimonials: 475,000 miles and running like a true champ: http://www.saber.net/~monarch/475.jpg My own 4 cylinder Toyota pickup still running strong after 463,000 miles and still passing tough California smog tests with it's factory original catalytic coverter because the engine still has like new compression and minimal piston ring wear / blow by: http://www.saber.net/~monarch/463.jpg Breaking in at 350,000 miles: http://www.saber.net/~monarch/350.jpg 345,000 mile Camry: http://www.saber.net/~monarch/345.jpg 297,000 mile Toyota MR2 sports car http://www.saber.net/~monarch/297.jpg

If it had been my car I would have ordered the two (three?) shift control solenoids from 1sttoyotparts.com for 28% off retail. That means for a couple hundred bucks I could have the solenoids in hand and then just pay a Toyota dealer 1 hour labor to install them. Then my total money out of pocket expense would have been only $300-400. Unfortunately it kinda looks like you'll have to spend more like $1,000 because the dealer is charging $300 for diagnosis and then will likely charge retail Lexus dealer prices for the solenoids + Lexus dealer labor cost. However, maybe the Lexus dealer will decide to cover the expense under the 6 year / 70,000 mile powertrain warranty? Or cover part of the cost?

If $164 is a retail price then you could get 28% off at 1sttoyotaparts.com. You'd pay no sales tax so that wold offset most of the 10% shipping charge.

Toyota sells the muffler and tailpipe as a prewelded unit ready to bolt in. I would imagine the '97 ES300 uses exactly the same muffler and tailpipe as the '97 Camry V6 in which case you could order it from a 25% off retail online Toyota dealer for approx. $100-150. It would be UPS'ed to your home and then you could install it yourself or take it to a muffler shop for installation. This assumes you are interested in OEM levels of exhaust noise and durability.

I agree with SRK the dark maroon color means the former owner really stretched out some of the oil changes. But if all 32 of your valve clearances are still within specs and if compression on all 8 cylinders is good then the stretched out oil changes didn't do any significant damage. I wouldn't worry about the varnish as it is just cosmetic. Some of the Bobistheoilguy "educated" owners here will likely recommend you clean up the varnish with $25 a bottle specialty engine cleaner products that are not sold in ordinary retail stores, but are only available via mail order because they are so special. "Special" in the sense as the kinds of products you see advertized on TV at 2:00 am in the morning.

In the April 2005 annual auto issue of Consumer Reports the RX was ranked ahead of any other mid-size luxury SUV in reliability, owner satisfaction and resale value.

That's on paper. In real world driving the the 2AZ-FE feels comfortable at high rpm, probably because it has a balance shaft to enhance smoothness. Also, in the real world, when driving a 2AZ-FE Camry you find your speed creeping up to 75-80 MPH even when you didn't intend to drive that fast. The Altima 2.5 4 cyl, doesn't have a personality like that. Instead, you have to consciously press the accelerator further to get the car to go that fast. Some Nissan engines are really responsive however. Like the mighty Titan / Armada V8 which is a thrill to drive.

I hope lenore and RX in NC read your post about the Chrysler transmission. The difference between a Chrysler automatic and an RX300 AWD automatic is that the RX trans just has a fluid overheating problem in certain driving situations that can be mitigated with frequent fluid changes whereas the Chrysler automatic has more fundanmental engineering weaknesses that lead to failure no matter how fresh the fluid is kept. Congrats on the 4 cylinder Camry. The Camry 4 cyl is a refined and powerful 4 cylinder motor that delivers exceptional gas mileage (around 32 MPG at 70 MPH with the 4-speed automatic and probably 33-34 MPG with the 5-speed automatic.). I've rented both the Camry 4 and V6 and prefer the 4 because it's nearly as smooth and powerful as the V6 and much easier to work on.

You might be wishing you did pass on the car if you find out it might cost $5,000 - $10,000 to restore it to mechanically reliable condition. Mechanically, a 10-15 year old LS400 is a money trap unless they have been meticulously maintained and relatively gently driven since the day they were brand new. Typically such cream puff LS400's will command a price of $7000 - $12,000 and they're worth it for the owner who wants and needs reliable transportation. If, on the other hand, you have another reliable car and bought the LS to try and gradually fix up in your spare time then dcfish's links will get you started. Just hope and prey the engine doesn't have permanent damage like low compression on some cylinders. The best do-it-yourself tutorials can be found at lexls.com

I suspect a bad alternator too. Alternator makers warn that alternator life will be shortened if the car owner forces it to charge a dead or nead dead battery. The elaborate electronics in a Lexus tend to drain good batteries after 2-4 weeks. Therefore I always disconnect the battery negative cable if I plan to park the car more than 2 weeks.

These are electronically controlled transmissions. So at the first hint of any shifting abnormality the car should be towed and diagnoised. An independent shop mechanic may not know how to retrieve the electronic trouble codes and interpret them and therefore may say "you need a new transmission". Typically the electronic shift control solenoids go out (though usually not until 100-200K miles) and are fairly inexpensive and easy to replace. The fact that the car intermittently drive fine and the fluid is pinkish are both good signs the transmission mechanicals are still in good shape and only the transmission electronics need to be fixed (assuming you didn't damage any mechanicals when trying to drive the car with faulty electronics)

The Red Toyota Long Life coolant is a concentrate you must dilute 50/50 with distilled water. It's forumulated to be compatible for both all aluminum and aluminum head / iron block engines. The Pink Toyota Super Long Life coolant comes prediluted and ready to use and is formulated mainly for the 2004 on up models, all of which have all aluminum engines. I think it would be a bad idea to mix the two until we know more about their chemistry. Both coolants are a step above anything you can get in an auto parts store. Specifically, they totally eliminate aluminum and iron corrosion, totally prevent any trace of radiator core blocking mineral deposits even if never changed for 5-10 years. In addition to being silicate free, they also contain a big dose of molybdenum lubricant, so the life of the water pump seal can be as long as 20 years or 250,000 miles. Big benefits for just a $5-8 premium over the price of auto parts store antifreeze.

No one here can troubleshoot problems caused by or not solved by the use of aftermarket parts, including the people who talked you into using them.

Toyota says only the throttle plate (butterfly valve) and interior walls of the throttle body need to be cleaned. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/tbclean.jpg The throttle body does not need to be removed. Use only small amounts of cleaner and scrub surfaces clean with a toothbrush. Then wipe away the accumulated goo with a clean towel moistened with the cleaner. Using large amounts of cleaner could be harmful to the oxygen sensor, catalytic converter and nearby sensitive electrical components like the throttle position sensor.

But do Mercedes automatic transmissions last 450,000 miles? For 30 years Toyota has offered automatics that have lasted that long when the owner just periodically replaced the 2-3 quarts in the transmission oil pan. On this forum Bicolini has a troublefree 438,000 mile Toyota 4-speed automatic and here is another 440,000 mile owner testimonial: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/475.jpg

40,000 miles is not enough miles for the TB or IAC to get seriously gunked up (except maybe on a car that has been modified from stock). Therefore I would bet my money something is marginal in the ignition system or that the independent shops that have been servicing your car were sloppy and disconnected or misrounted a hose or wire or left a air intake tube hose clamp loose or tore a hole in the tube by accident or something like that. I thought new Lexus's came with a 4 year, 50,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty. If so, how come you are not considering taking the car to a Lexus dealer for diagnosis?

You need to find out if the problem is ignition or fuel system related. Since no code is being set for a rich or lean fuel mixture, there's a strong probability the problem is in the ignition system. Probably something minor and inexpensive to fix like a partially fouled spark plug or weak ignition coil on one or more cylinders. Switching to premium gas could help reduce propensity to miss.

Some Toyota owners manuals are pretty emphatic about discouraging driving with the oil level below the Add mark on the dipstick. Here's what one manual says: "If the level is on the Add line or below, add oil immediately. WARNING: If the oil level is low, DO NOT run the engine at high speeds. If for any reason you must drive without adding oil, drive only for a short distance at low speeds."

More and more luxury SUV buyers crave sports car handling and the macho looks of 18" tires even though there is a substantial penalty in ride comfort and noise so what is Lexus supposed to do? Anyway, check your tire pressures and air them down to about 30 psi for better comfort and quietness.