monarch

My understanding from this forum, the RX forum and a Camry forum is that just the strut mounts need replacement to cure the clunking on late 90's Camry's and ES300's. There might even be a technical service bulletin on the strut mounts. Check alldata.com The OEM KYB struts themselves are of such high quality they are good for upwards of 150,000 miles or more unless you drive alot on bumpy roads KYB is an abbreviation for the Japanese company called Kayaba.

I think you've been fooled by a slick talking ebay seller. The ebay seller words his ad in a manner that makes the public think all the aftermarket brand brake pads and struts he is selling are the same as "OEM" for Honda, Toyota, Hyundai, Chevrolet, Ford, etc. The ebay seller is actually just selling generic Gabriel shocks that will physically fit a wide variety of Toyota / Lexus models and years (the 1992-2002 Camry, Avalon & ES300). Factory original Camry,Avalon and ES300 shocks, on the other hand are typically made by Japanese companies like KYB and Tokico and the valving / stiffness and other characteristics are specially tailored for specific models (e.g 4 cyl vs. V6, base model vs. top of the line model, etc.) and model years That's why if you ordered factory replacement shocks for a 1992-2002 Camry, Avalon or ES300 from a Toyota /Lexus dealer, the dealer would have to wade through a long list of part numbers because Toyota does not simply make one strut that covers a wide range of models and model years. In summary, the ebay seller offers only aftermarket quality struts and brake pads and only a "one size fits all" version of the struts.

I'd guess there is no firmware update for the older RX models because they don't have a drive by wire electronic throttle. Did you ever find out what specific parts inside your transmissions failed?

All Toyota / Lexus engines with Variable Valve Timing are interference engines. All RX engines have Variable Valve Timing.

If the prior owner consistently drove 2,000 miles per year (= 4-5 tanks of fresh gasoline per year) then that would be plenty to keep the fuel system and fuel injectors in good shape. On the other hand, if the car was in storage for a 1-2 year period or more anytime during that 7 year period then I'd be concerned about the possible effects the deteriorated gas would have. I know from personal experience a Toyota engine will run roughly if fed 1 1/2 year old gasoline. Your comment about seeing a cloud of smoke makes me more concerned about possible internal mechanical damage to the engine. A '98 Lexus should not produce any visible smoke from the exhaust no matter how wildly you drive it. I'd pull all 8 spark plugs and look for differences in the amount of wear / deposits on the plugs. Worn / dirty plugs or partially melted electrodes could indication piston ring or valve damage on one or more cylinders.

Toyota's website says http://toyota.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/toyota....?p_sid=rlB32CTh "All Toyota vehicles come from the factory with petroleum-based engine oil." (Which means I was wrong in my post above when I said the Supra Turbo model comes from the factory with synthetic oil) Your R400h owners manual should also say: "Toyota Genuine Motor oil is filled in your Lexus vehicle." Toyota dealers in my area sell genuine Toyota motor oil for only $1.79 a quart - too inexpensive to be a synthetic blend. Likewise Toyota dealers sell genuine Toyota Type T-IV and Dexron automatic transmission fluids in 1 quart bottles for only $3.20 - $4.00 a quart which is also too inexpensive to be full synthetic.

Your SC430 V8 engine and your RX400h V6 engine are not high performance engine either. Both engines came filled from the factory with dinosaur oil and both engines have a track record of lasting over 300,000 miles on dinosaur oil. It is true that several automakers, including Toyota, require the use of synthetic oil in certain high performance engines because the oil temperatures run higher than on conventional engines. Example: the Toyota Supra Turbo model comes from the factory filled with synthetic oil.

I hope you will tell us when you find out what is causing the start up noise and raggedty warm engine sound. I feel the source of the noise will turn out to be due to a fairly minor mechanical fault such as a loose spark plug, breached gasket, hole in a hose or tubing, disconnected hose or tubing, etc. A more serious, but unlikely source of the noise could be from permanent (but not immediately fatal) valve train damage caused by oil starvation. For example, when the former owner had the oil changed the technician could have installed the oil filter improperly, causing the oil to leak out. Or the technician could have accidentally forgotten to refill the engine with oil before restarting and driving the car. On the other hand, if the source of the noise is determined to be due to deposits inside the engine or fuel injectors, then the "mechanic in a can" "pour in the cleaner and fill the neighborhood with smoke" "get a Motorvac" oriented folks here will have scored some good points.

Great approach. Drain and fill is the proven method and the only one recommended in the Toyota Factory Service Manual. None of your mechanical component fluids (coolant, transmission oil, power steering fluid, brake fluid) needs to be "flushed", "power flushed" or needs additives. Just periodic partial changes will keep these components well lubricated for long life. But commercial interests will try to make you feel guilty if you havn't got every last drop of the "old" fluid out because they make much more money when they sell a complicated "flush" job vs a simple drain and refill. Likewise commercial interests are likely to steer you away from using factory fluid and will likely suggest using additives (= more profit centers for them). For long component life it's more important to be meticulous about using factory fluid (Toyota Type T-IV trans fluid you can buy from Toyota dealer parts depts), never under or overfilling and never getting dirt / lint in the fluid via dirty funnels, sloppiness, etc. Drain and refill is also idiotproof in the sense that you can measure the amount drained and pour back and identical amount, hence eliminating the guesswork about how much new fluid to add.

I'd suggest getting two opinions from two different shops to see if their diagnoisis's match. Only a minor issue is likely causing the noise (e.g an exhaust manifold gasket leak, fault with an ignition system part, etc.). I can't think of hardly anything the original owner could have done to the car during it's first 15,000 miles that could have caused internal engine damage. 15,000 miles is not enough miles for sludge to form, even if the oil was not changed for 2 years. Plus the Lexus V8's are not prone to developing sludge.

Since the mid-1970's Toyota has designed its engines to be capable of surviving 400,000 - 700,000 miles on conventional oil, including the SD and SE grade oils which were the only ones available back then: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mast.../leowrfield.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/74h.jpg Over the years, thousands of Toyota owners have tried synthetic oils too, but to my knowledge, the life of their engines has not exceeded the 600,000 - 700,000 mile maximum that conventional oil users have achieved.

Advice from Toyota's corporate website (toyota.com) Service and Maintenance Last Updated 11/01/2005 Air Conditioning Odor Question: What causes air conditioner odor? How can I prevent the odor from occurring? Answer: During air conditioner operation, cold refrigerant is pumped through the evaporator core by an engine-driven compressor. A fan then blows air through “fins” in the evaporator to cool the air. These fins also act as an air filter, trapping bacteria, spores, and dirt. These airborne particles are normally washed out a drain hole with condensation, but if they remain on a moist evaporator, they may collect and cause an unpleasant odor. This effect is more frequently found in humid climates where more condensate accumulates. This situation is not unique to Toyota; it is an industry-wide condition. To prevent the odor, Toyota recommends the following: 1. Avoid parking under trees to reduce the possibility of leaves entering the air intake. 2. Use the fresh air setting on your climate control rather than the recirculated air setting whenever possible to allow the evaporator to dry out 3. Drive on paved roads whenever feasible as dusty conditions may accelerate the condition If the condition already exists, spraying a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water (1 to 5 ratio/mixture) or a disinfectant in the outside air intake may help reduce the smell. If these steps do not alleviate the odor, we encourage you to contact your local Toyota dealership for a thorough evaluation of the condition.

BMW and Lexus have different policies about the use of synthetic oil. BMW allows oil change intervals to be extended up to 1 year / 15,000 miles if certain synthetics are used: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/BMW.jpg Corporate Lexus's policy, published on lexus.com is as follows: "Synthetic oil can be used at the first scheduled oil change. Please note that the use of synthetic oil does not extend the recommended oil change intervals. Even if synthetic oil is used, we do not recommend longer oil change intervals. Once synthetic oil is used, it is best not to switch back to petroleum-based oil."

Here's what a Ford F-150 truck engineer had to say about Ford Truck durability standards in 1997 and earlier years: http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_...v31/ai_17489004 "By far, the '97 F-150 is the most thoroughly researched product Ford Motor Co. has ever brought to market," says Thomas D. Baughman, chief program engineer on the F-Series. "Where we used to test our fullsize pick-ups to seven-year levels, the new F-150 was tested to reach 10 years of dependable service." "We raised our durability test standards half-again as much. Our old standard was 100,000 miles of equivalent customer durability. The standard for the '97 F-150 was a whopping 150,000 miles."

I agree with the Lexus dealer for two reasons. Here's one: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/74.jpg Another reason is that if you pull out the transmission oil dipstick and feel the fluid after driving 30 miles or more in 4th gear, you'll notice the fluid is only moderately hot - not hot enough to burn your skin - just as it would be if you drove that distance in 5th gear. In fact, the owners manuals virtually all models advise locking out the top most overdrive gear when towing.

With regard to choice of brand and type of oil (conventional vs. synthetic) , Consumer Reports tested a variety of brands and types of motor oil for 60,000 miles in New York City taxi's then tore down the engines. Here are their findings: "If you've been loyal to one brand, you may be surprised to learn that every oil we tested was good at doing what motor oil is supposed to do. More extensive tests, under other driving conditions, might have revealed minor differences. But thorough statistical analysis of our data showed no brand-not even the expensive synthetics-to be meaningfully better or worse in our tests. After each engine ran about 60,000 miles (and through 10 months of seasonal changes), we disassembled it and measured the wear on the camshaft, valve lifters, and connecting-rod bearings. We used a tool precise to within 0.00001 inch to measure wear on the key surfaces of the camshaft, and a tool precise to within 0.0001 inch on the valve lifters. The combined wear for both parts averaged only 0.0026 inch, about the thickness of this magazine page. Generally, we noted as much variation between engines using the same oil as between those using different oils. Even the engines with the most wear didn't reach a level where we could detect operational problems." We measured wear on connecting rod bearings by weighing them to the nearest 0.0001 gram. Wear on the key surface of each bearing averaged 0.240 gram - about the weight of seven staples. Again, all the tested oils provided adequate protection. Our engineers also used industry methods to evaluate sludge and varnish deposits in the engine. Sludge is a mucky sediment that can prevent oil from circulating freely and make the engine run hotter. Varnish is a hard deposit that would remain on engine parts if you wiped off the sludge. It can make moving parts stick. All the oils proved excellent at preventing sludge. At least part of the reason may be that sludge is more apt to form during cold startups and short trips, and the cabs were rarely out of service long enough for their engine to get cold. Even so, the accumulations in our engines were so light that we wouldn't expect sludge to be a problem with any of these oils under most conditions. Variations in the buildup of varnish may have been due to differences in operating temperature and not to the oils. Some varnish deposits were heavy enough to lead to problems eventually, but no brand consistently produced more varnish than any other."

Many current Toyota owners who are over approx. 35 years old formerly drove American cars. One reason we defected away from American cars is because American car engines or transmissions wouldn't last no matter how much preventive maintenance we gave them. A classic example is the Chevrolet Vega engine. Vega advertizing led buyers to believe it was an exhaustively test and proven engine: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/va.jpg In reality, Vega engines burned excessive oil causing spark plug fouling after only 50,000 miles because the cast iron piston rings wore out the high tech aluminum alloy cylinder walls. Mechanics like Tom & Ray Magliozzi also acknowledge some inherent weaknesses of American car engines that can show up even if the engine receives proper preventive maintenance. For example, a Ford owner wrote: http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Arc...99/June/02.html "My 1997 Ford Ranger has developed an occasional noisy lifter problem" Tom Magliozzi answered: Your lifter problem could be caused by low oil pressure. So have your oil pressure tested. The lifter could also be leaking down, which is common these days with self-adjusting [hydraulic] lifters. A lot of them are just not "beefy" enough by design, in my opinion." By contrast, nearly all Toyota engines have mechanical valve lifters which can't develop "leak down" problems like these.

If you register your Lexus at lexus.com you'll have access to a 400 question owner FAQ. Here's what it says about synthetic oil: Question:Can I use synthetic engine oil in my Lexus vehicle during its break-in period? Corporate Lexus's Answer: Synthetic oil can be used at the first scheduled oil change. Please note that the use of synthetic oil does not extend the recommended oil change intervals. Please refer to the Lexus Owner's Manual Supplement for further information regarding the proper maintenance schedule for your specific vehicle. If synthetic oil is used after that time, it should be the same SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) weight specification and meet or exceed the API (American Petroleum Institute) grade specifications listed in the Owner's Manual. Even if synthetic oil is used, we do not recommend longer oil change intervals. Once synthetic oil is used, it is best not to switch back to petroleum-based oil. Beware the Japanese car company engineers also urge owners NOT to use fuel or oil additives. And beware the Bobistheoilguy website is owned by a specialty lube salesman and is also sponsored by specialty lube and additive companies. Not surprizingly, specialty fuel and oil additives are promoted and advertized on the Bobistheoilguy forum: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/bitog.jpg The end result is Japanese car owners may end up going against the advice of the car company engineers and using specialty fuel and oil additives like this Nissan owner did: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=433116 "I first got interested in this Fuel Power & Lube Control http://lubecontrol.com/ after reading numerous numerous positive reviews of it on Bobistheoilguy last year. I ordered a gallon of FP and one of LC. I immediately added some FP to my Infiniti I30. I consistently see 2 mpg higher, if not more. After adding it to the Infiniti Qx4, I also saw a MPG increase. I decided that as long as I was ordering some FP I might as well get some Lube Control. I decided I would follow there recommendation of adding one ounce of LC per quart of oil, and then 1 ounce per 1k miles. I did this and to my shock at the end of the second oil change using this method the light varnish inside my valve cover is now almost gone."

1. Most car makers recommend silicone grease on the weatherstripping / window seals to reduce noise. NAPA stores carry it and it's called Sylglyde. GM dealers carry their own brand of silicone grease for rubber door and window seals. 2. Your engine already has a cold air intake. K&N & aftermarket cold air intakes add noise - the SOUND of going faster, but actual 0-60 times won't improve. 3. Synthetic benefits: Slightly easier engine starts in subzero weather. Near negligible gains in fuel economy. Near negligible reductions in engine wear. Synthetic risks: Slight to moderate increased risk of engine oil leaks developing after switching.

Toyota has been building 400,000 mile capable 4 cylinder engines since before you, ArmyofOne, Toysrme & SWO3ES were born: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/74h.jpg Here's how Tom & Ray, the radio talk show mechanics, size up the Foreign vs. Domestic debate: CLICK & CLACK : Foreign vs. Domestic, Washington Post Sunday, May 8, 2005: RAY: In terms of reliability only, Consumer Reports called 15 cars "Most Reliable," based on detailed reports from thousands of owners. Every single one of the "Most Reliable" cars is Japanese. TOM: Of the 14 dubbed "Least Reliable," nine are European, two are Japanese, one is Korean and one is American (the Lincoln Navigator). RAY: Now, you may argue that Consumer Reports is a traitor, too. But we think their evaluations -- especially those regarding reliability and safety -- are pretty darned good. And they say that, in general, American cars -- while much better than they used to be -- are average to slightly below-average in reliability when compared with today's competition.

Knock sensors should last the life of the car. The wiring to the sensors can sometimes get accidentally disturbed / disconnected during the course of engine maintenance /service work, however. Try a tank on premium gas. If the pinging goes away it might mean the fuel mixture is running leaner than it used to or that the engine temperature is slightly higher than it used to be.

If you don't know the life expectancy of the components then you cannot understand "the point". In the case of the alternator, the life expectancy is in the 300,000 - 500,000 miles range, with brush replacement needed about every 150,000. Toyota makes a brush holder assembly you can buy that costs only $20. In the case of the PS pump, the life expectancy is also up around 500,000 miles, but if the PS fluid is never changed and if the steering rack solenoid filter screen isn't periodically cleaned then leaks are likely to develop due to abnormally high fluid pressures. In that case the PS pump can be resealed using a $25 Toyota PS pump reseal kit. I agree with you that time = money and for many owners the $1000 saved by doing it yourself and learning how to do it yourself is not worth the tradeoff of lost income. But it might be for retired or mostly retired owners or those who enjoy learning how to maintain their own autos.

There are no DIY tutorials available, but tons of information in the RX discussion forum archives. So search the RX forum archive using search words like "transmission fluid change" . Your RX uses the same fluids, lubes and filters as the Toyota Highlander SUV so your local Toyota dealer carries the Toyota Type T-IV transmission fluid you need for about 50% less than a Lexus dealer would charge.

The Toyota part# of the existing belt is clearly imprinted on the top side surface of the belt itself. Copy down this number and ask a Toyota dealer to match it. Or if you want 28% off on the price call 1stttoyotaparts.com (Bob Bridge Toyota) If the Toyota dealer insists upon knowing what vehicle you have say "a Toyota Highlander". If you say "RX300" then the Toyota dealer will likely say "we don't carry Lexus parts" because his computer won't tell him what Toyota parts are shared by Lexus models

As with any other car, the front brake pads have a minimum acceptable thickness (in millimeters) published in the factory service manual. You should have asked the dealer "what percentage thickness have my pads worn down to so far"? If, for example, at 25,000 miles your pads were 70% worn, then you'd still be able to drive approximately 10,000 more miles before the pads would need replacement. The rate of pad wear depends on driving style and driving conditions. I brake gradually with light pressure on the brake pedal when I approach stop signs and stop lights and I get phenomenal front brake pad life (over 150,000 miles). Other drivers brake abruptly with firm pedal pressure and may wear down the pads in as little as 25,000 miles.