chubyball

Yeah, try to lube it first see if it can pop back out by itself. If not, then you have to take it apart and see why the switch is not to work properly.

I would take the car to Advance Auto, AutoZone, or Sears and have them hook up the battery tester and check the load on the battery. In this way they can see what causes the battery to drain off to.

I think the switch stuck due to temp. My switch is stuck also after pushing on it, the switch does not pops out until I lube it with WD40. Try to lube it with WD40 or Silicon STP lubrication it will help the switch to pop back out again.

The common sense of finding the O2/S is locate before and after the catalytic. To locate your catalytics is bottom your front cars where the manifold connects to 2 pipes then connect to its.

MrSypher, Did you replace cats and O2 sensors with Dealer parts? After replaced them, does your Engine light still on? I heard that OEM parts does report faulty Engine light. I took the car to Dealer for Diagnostic check they found the problem with my Engine that cause the Cats to lite up. Lucky that I had never used the car with it Red cherry. The Meineke also took the cat apart and double check they kept suspect the problem was from the cats. Lucky that the Cat is still warranty and dealer wanted to take a look at it before exchanged for a new one. They finally told me the problem causes from unburn gas that causes my both Cats to Red Cherry. Since I've never over used the car when it starts turning Red therefore, I did not damage the O/S and either Cats. The dealer solved my problem without confirming my agreement, therefore, they are willing only charge for diagnostic $85 and $14 for parts. I am feeling great with the car now. It runs fine now. No more Engine light On. No more Red Cherry. Engine run much smoother now at start up.

Joe, The problem is 4 cylinders went dead which causes the unburn fuel to light up the cat. There is a post from Bandit he had a similar problem with accelarting and lost power due to the ignitor coil. Anyone here can help me out with few pages manual of ignition coil?

My car having problem with acceleration and Red cherry at catalytic convert. Today the dealer's technician told me that could be problem of the Coil or igniter 1 and 2. He said the repair labor would costs 2 hours. I checked the on the internet for parts cost is about from $50-128 depend on brand name. I know the Coil is easy to replace because it locates top front side of passenger side, but not the igniter#2 which locates below the crankshaft on front side of driver side. This will consume alot of time to replace. What is your suggestion guys? Replace it myself or have someone else do it beside the dealer? I know dealer 's going to charge me at least $300.00-$500.00 for replacing this parts. If someone has manual repairs that instruct how to replace these parts please send me a copy. My car model is LS400 '95 Thanks a bunch guys!

Bandit, Great to hear that you found the problem. Is it easy to fix the inigtion coil? Does your locate on top left front passenger side? I think I am also having a same problem.

Is there a way to test your fuel injection to know it's bad or not? Please advice.

Hello Bill, Did you replace the cat at Meineke yet? How was it? Does your Engine light go away now? Any improvement with the accelerating?

I replace the missfiring plug but the it does not have any corrosion on there at all. I guessed the wire was the problem I measured the resistance of old wires and new wires that I just bought, the #7 of the old wires has greater ohm resistance and #7 of the new one.

When you replace a straight accross the catalytic converter, without the connecter does the engine light still on?

Anyone here had a problem with the catalytic? If so, did you replace with dealer part or OEM one? Thanks!

I am not driving the car so I am not worrying about damaging it. I am planing to buy news catalytic converter before Had Minieke installing them. Any suggestion for aftermarket one? Or I have to stick with dealer parts? Does anyone here have any problem with aftermarket catalytic converter? Please advice.

what is the motor vac? Where do they sale it at? Does it easy to use? I never heard of this but curious about it. My catalytic is red like Cherry after 5 mins engine starts. I just recently changed the driver side (catalytic converter) but now, both are red at the same time. I think it may be those gunk left inside the intake got clog up at catalytic after I spray the injection clean/throttle boddy cleaner solution in it. I saw there were a lot of gunk way inside wall of intake. Do you think motor vac will solve my problem instead of replace both catalytic?

Does anyone in here has ever replaced their catalytic converter yet? If do, is it aftermaket one or dealer one? I planed to purchase aftermarket part but not sure yet. I purchased the dealer one 4 months ago but now it seems useless. Both catalytic converts Red Cherry after replacing a new parkplug #2 and #7 due to missfiring. Now seem like that missfiring buid up and clog up both of catalytic converters. It's a big headache when your car is not working right.

I am having problem with the car from accelerating. I does not seem have power and catalytic convert is so hot light charcoal I know this catalytic over heat that's why it cause the car not to accelerate. I just replaced new set of sparkplug wires, can this be a problem if wires are cross in wrong slot? HELP HELP!!!

Hello JimK, I'm glad that I found your post which I have an exact problem with my LS400 '95 Model. I also have missfired on parkplug #7. I had engine code and traction light on I immediately took the car to Autozone to scan the engine code they said that p0302 and p0307 are missfiring. Since this car 've never been replaced rotors, distributor caps, sparkplug wires and pcv-valve. I go ahead replaced them and also replace those 2 sparkplug head which got missfired. Now the car runs like new at start up. Before it used to hit 1800 rpm at startup but now it hits at 900-1100rpm at startup. I am not used to this sudden change yet still suspect and thought there are something wrong. My question to you is that do you experience the similar idling rpm as I do after you had rotors, distributor caps and sparkplug wires replaced? Another question to you is that did they reset your ECU after replaced this new parts? Or the Engine light and Tract light just went away by itself? Thanks for helping!

Recently, I just replace my rotor caps, distributor caps, pcv-valve, and Sparkplug wires. I had a white smoke comes out at first then I reseted the ECU, now my idling is at 1000 rpm at first startup and the car runs steady too. I don't know this is a good sign or bad. Have you reset your battery yet? Try to do that, let it disconnect for at least for 15 mins then reconnect it and see it makes any different? My previous problem was cylinder #2 and #7 missfiring due to water got in there. Engine light was on and also traction light, I went to Autozone and check they told me that p0302 and p0307 was missfiring. I went ahead any replace sparkplug#2 and 7, also reset the ECU because I thought the car was not smart enough to know itself.

thanks for response! Yes, I know there are numbering on the distributor but I just wanted to double check myself with the hardcopy diagram, because my car is different at start up now. I used to hit at 1800 rpm at start up then beginning to drops to 600rpm after 3 mins ,but now, it start up at 900-1100 rpm. This is a big different, I am sure that plug these wires in the right place that's why I am asking for diagram. I thought there are may be I cross wiring this causes the engine to run will at low rpm at startup. Right now the car ECU is relearn everything since I reset the battery cable. How do we know all cylinders are running properly? Anyway to check that?

I am interested in the cd, I have a LS400 '95. Please give more info. about your server and where to download. Thanks a bunch.

I found out that P0302 and P0307 are miss-firing, this causes my engine to vibrating. The reason is the water got in the parkplug and it must killed the parkplug. I am currently change the parkplug-wires set, distributor caps, rotor caps,plug #2 and 7. Also Cleaned the throttle boddy and replacing pcv valve. Now I started up the car and I see a lot of white smoke. Is this problem come from unburn gase from cylinders #2 and #7 when it was bad? Does any one know? And do I have to reset the battery to let the computer to relearn again after I replaced all these parts? Please help!

Hello all, I am changing my parkplugs cable, distributor caps and rotor caps. I need help on diagram connecting between sparkplug heads engine to distributor caps. Does any one here have a diagram that displays the firing order? Please email me. Thanks

I am having problem with Sparkplug #7 which is missfires because some water got inside and caused the corosion. Now it has a white corosion stuffs inside the parkplug hole. Does anyone have any suggestion how to remove this white stuff? Do I have to replace this slot with new sparkplug? I replaced all sparkplugs 3 months ago. Any suggestion!

Earlier I posted a same subject but thought the problem was front end wheels related. Unfortunately last couple days the Engine light just appears and Traction Control light at the same time. Since then the car 've been constantly vibrate. I took it Autozone to have Engine code scan and found out cylinder 2 and 7 are missed fires. This morning I took the intake off to access to sparkplug wires and distributor and also cleaned the intake. Unbelievable how dirty the intake was, I also measured the sparkplug wire#2 with a ohms resistance of 5000kohms. Does anyone here know the exact ohms what it should be? I am going to take off the distributor caps tomorrow and see what is the problem in there. At this momment I am seeing the sparkplug #2 is looking very clean. I guessed I will have to remove the sparkplug #2 and 7 and measure the gap again. I just changed these parkplugs 3 months ago from Dealer parts. If anyone here and through in some inputs I would appreaciate.