chubyball

What kind of fuild weight can be used for this model car, does anyone know? I replaced the transfer case fuild of this car with Vavoline 80w-90 Gear synthetic blend, and I am getting the thud and noise between speed 30-40mph and 50-60mph. Are these speed at 3rd and 4th gear that's why the noise coming? Does anyone know? Thanks in advance for any thoughts contribute.

I am experiencing the OFF light flashing constantly, does not mater I push what, the car would not raise height or low itself. Right now the status is N green light is on and OFF light flashing. I assumed this problem cause from moist got into the electronic. Anyone know how to fix this is problem? Is it a comon problem for GX470 2003 model?

You should look up for O/D off flashed, this could trigger the problems. Then next step look into the sensor. I would think of the transmission or speed sensors (there are 2 speed sensor on my LS400, front transmission and rear one).

today, I found out why is my car is shaking. The ebrake didn't release the left rear wheel and heat is build up so hot on left rear wheel, then my car shake up like crazy. I jacked up left rear wheel put the car in reverse and the wheel is turning, it's stop after I applied the foot brake then release it, the wheel is turn like normal. So I assume by caliper is working fine. Doing the same thing by using emergency brake instead of foot brake, the wheel starts to turn slowly. I assumed that there is a problem with my ebrake. Damn left wheel is soo so so HOT.

How many cats do you have? I have a LS400 95 and it has 2 cats total of 4 Oxygen sensors, 2 before the cats (locates between manifold and cats) and 2 after the cats (locates between the cats and muffler pipe). I replace the 2 after the cats.

I had the same problem I did swap the sensor left to right and right to left to see the damn codes changed, but after replaced both catalitics cost me a fortune, I end up replace the second cat with after market part with cost of $300.00 and the code still there. Finally I replace both send sensors after the cats. Now the Engine code went a way, it has not came back since. My suggestion to you is replaced both of them and reset your computer. Remember to buy Denso parts, you can purchase from the website, it's a little cheaper from dealer about $20.00 for each. By the way, my sensor went bad at 115K miles, not at 200k

Here is my new rotor and do the follow instructions after install your new rotors Bedding allows your brakes to reach their full potential. Until they are bedded, your brakes simply do not work as well as they can. If you've installed a big brake kit, changed your pads and rotors, or even if you've purchased a brand new car, you should set aside some time to bed the brakes in by following the instructions below. Proper bedding will improve pedal feel, reduce or eliminate brake squeal, and extend the life of your pads and rotors. For more on the theory of bedding, please refer to this excellent article by StopTech: Removing the Mystery from Brake Pad Bed-In. Caution: After installing new pads/rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brake pedal will result in almost no braking power. Gently apply the brakes a few times at low speed in order to build up some grip before blasting down the road at high speed. Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise the first time you hit the brakes at 60 mph. When following these instructions, avoid doing it around other vehicles. Bedding is often best done early in the morning, when traffic is light, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. An officer of the law will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! Zeckhausen Racing does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions. From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps. Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit for any length of time with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors. With some less aggressive street pads, you may need fewer than eight near-stops. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step. The brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal. After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need 5 to 10 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot. If club race pads, such as Hawk Blue, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Performance Friction 01 or Hawk HT 14, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph. After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life. After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.

get a hammer and tap around the rotor at the same time you can have a jack and jack up your rotor while tap at it.

Where did you guys purchase your motor mount from? Dealer? What is the estimate time to work on these mount? Does the clunk sound will go away after the new mounts are install? Right now, every times I shift from Park to D rive the clunk noise is sound. Especially the noise is louder when the engine was not warm up enough, the RPM is still at 1600-1800. but at 600 rpm clunk noise is not so loud

My LS 400 95's stereo does not sound right, I have no boost sound from the rear center speaker. I went and measure the voltage when the stereo is on and I got only 7 Vdc out of accross the speak. Is this meant my Amp does not give out enough out power any more? Where can I get a new one to replace this one? bESTBUY? Anyone experienced the same problem? Topic moved to Audio/Electronics forum.

I have a LS400 1995 and it has a semilar problem with unclock the rest of the door. Sometimes it drives me nuts to keep pressing the button of remote and expect the rear doors to unclock. Most of the times I just open the passenger door and put the button myself to unclock the back door. But I now I don't have to do that anymore. Guess what I did? I remove the glove comparment and look for where is the computer locates at, I found it and unplug every single plug and clean the contact. Now 90% of the times to unlock back door is easy, just simply second times press on unlock button.

Read your manual or under the hood for more info. I have replace AC on my LS400. It's tricky, you must know what you are doing otherwise your compressor will fry itself.

Finally I got my speedo needle to work right again. The problem that I had was the needle sometimes play dead and sometimes work fine. It is weird when it does not work properly. The symptom is that that the speedo kind of jumpie when it does not work right. For example, one morning I started up the car and drive and the speed needle still play dead but the odor meter still work fine. I tried to change gear or accelerate the car, hopefully the yoke of the sensor may get the needle to work again. Well, it did. The needle bounced real quick up to 20 or sometimes 40 miles/per depend on the speed you were driving. The solution to this problem is replacing the speed sensor, I purchase the sensor at Autozone for $80.00. I only need to bought one even though there are 2 speed sensor. If you look at my attach document you will know why I only bought one sensor. How troubleshoot the problem, first you need to disconnect the sensor from the electrical wire then drive it around the block, you will see the odometer and speedo needles, both are not work because they both are connected to the same sensor, where it connected near the drivesharft (end of transmission). Replace the old one with new one with clean them real good. Don't over tight it, the sensor will damage from cracking. My advice to those who works under the car, don’t get under unless you know your car is on the ramp or the stand, and don’t forget to place a stop at your rear tires to prevent the car from moving. Toyota_Speed_sensor.pdf

My speedo meter needle is working again ..... HAHAHHAHA

My Speedo meter needle just quit working yesterday, but everything else work, rightnow I can not tell how fast I am going. I called the dealer this morning they told me to bring in the car for diagnostic, cost $100 bucks and could be more if they need more times for diagnose. At the meantime, I am going to drive like this and try to find the alternative solution.

My LS400 95 finally stop telling me how fast I am going, I am planing to fix the problem. But I need some diy info such as location of speedometer cable, sensor tranny, and how to remove the cluster instrument (if I have to).....any help would be greatly apreciated...

I just recent call a few Toyota dealers for quoting per quart trany oil, and they told me 6.40/quart. This is crazy, I am going to call some place else this Monday. I am still not clear about how much oil do I need to refill, after remove the trany pan? I am planing to get a case for this job. I also thought removing the drain plug (without remove the pan) and refill some of the mount of the oil that I drain out some from trany, by repeating the work until I use all 12 quart I could replace 90 percent of the oil. What do you guys think?

Since you are doing the fluid change on your trany, can you tell me what trany fluild that you use for replacement? Because I can not find any trany fluid that match my LS400 ATF TYPE II OR IV. I call the dealer and they refuse to sale them.

Does your car vibration happens frequently or it happens every 3 or 4 months? By the way, where is the front bushing? Do youhave diagram that you can post up? It's imaze me that the car drive smooth most of the time, can not tell anything wrong until the shaking is back, it seems like 7.0 earth quake is happening in your vehicle. Thanks mann777.

nc211, Last year, I took out my rear rotors and had them rotates. Those 2 screws that you are talking about, there are used for keeping the rotors tight up with the center hubs, they can only remove my impact tools, I did screw them back as it was. I don't think any there is anything wrong with any machenical component, because the car is now driving fine, I was able to come back home 60 miles distance driving. This problem always occur at low speed acceleration, it never happened at cruising speed 60, 70 or above 80 miles/hr. Mostly it occurs when the car at acceleration or deccerlation. The only thing that I can thought of is ECU problem. Why? Because it happened only once a year or twice, most of the time, the car drive smooth like floating in air.

The viberation is back today, it last so long today, a lot longer than usual. After spending 30 mins in the Mall and I went out to the parking lot and drove the car, it's still shaking like crazy. So What I did was I experienced with driving fast, but I never can exceed 50 miles/hr, as soon as I apply the brake the vibration is stop First senario, I tried the to let the car roll as Nuetral "N" and reps the gas pedal, engine still smooth @ 3000 rpm, but the car still vibrate like crazy. Senario 2, I tried the to let the car roll as Nuetral "N" with out applying the brake the car still vibrate like crazy. Senario 3, I tried to let the car roll while in Nuetral and turn off the engine, the vibration still going crazy. I thought I eliminate problems of catalyst, transmission and engine mount with senarios 1 and 2. My cousin thought that bearing is the problem so I apply my hand on all 4 wheels, the most hotest wheel was left rear driver side. I was trying to pull of the bear to take a look inside but unfortunately I cound not, I can only took off the brake caliper, a baring lock nut. My assumption of the problem is the ECU that cause the brake to lockup which cause the rotor to get extreme hot, after it get hot, vibration is beginning after that. What do you guys think?

Hey guys, I replace 2 back Oxygen sensor and the Engine Code has not appeared since, it's about 2 weeks drive now, nothing shows up yet. Keep fingers cross. The problem cause, since I put a cheap gas 89 octane 3 years ago in the tanks and the yellow light has not been gone until I replace 2 cats, and last weeks I just replaced 2 OxSensor.

I want to check with you guys about ATF fluid, does it matter if it type I, II, III or 4?

Gumart1, can you pass along the photo? I was going to remove my pan too, I plan to replace with ATF Mobil 1 synthetic after remove the pan off. My car is 1996 LS400 with 160K, does the trany locate the same as yours? Let me know thanks.

Must need a machine to do a flush job. Dealer charges $70 for a flush job, last time I check with them