chubyball

I just discover oil speads at the steering Control Valve (8) and Tie Rod Boot (3), and it speads to oil filter area and also speads to Oxygen Sensor where the CAT, very much everywhere underneath of driver side. Anyone, can help what cause this and how to fix it? I would appreciated. Thanks in advance, JEREMY LS 400 '95 untitled.bmp

My question is after replacing the OXYGEN sensors, do I have to reset the code or it will reset itself. Thanks!

There are no paper inside your CATS if there is it would be caught in fire, CATS are very hot hot hot.... up to hundred of degrees temp. Inside the CATS has a bee holes that reduce noise from the exhaust. If your car engine light are not ON then don't worry about the smell, it will go away after while after new CATS are installed.

Don't worry, I think it going to be alright, my brother shorted out the brand new battery on the Montero Sport while install in it. After connected all cables to the new battery he accidently drop the wrench accress the ground bar and Positive charge of battery, fire when up, I had a battery in had and knock out the wrench while it's in red. After ward, the car starts up fine.

Easiest way without getting messy, then just use a Turkey baxter and draw the fluid it out, then turn the steering wheel back and forth... Keep doing this until you run out the fuild.

Here is the history of my front brake system. At 45K miles, I replace brake pads without machine the rotors, and the first few thousand miles (1k-2k) the front end wables due to new pads and old rotor were not perfectly same surface, what I mean is the new brakepads has even surface but not rotors. Then at 95K miles, I replace front brakepads again without machine the rotors, it also had same symtom like as first time replacement. But now, the car is at 105K miles It start make a weird noise at low speed braking, it sound like there is something rubbing between the pad and the rotor. I check the rotor and see the edge of the brake may have rubbing on the rotor where which does not shine. If you look carefull at your old rotors you can see rust at outer and inner of rotor are un-even with the surface of the brake pads applied on. The whole 105K miles, I have not replaced the rear drum brake yet. It does not seem wear out as quick as front brake. But I am thinking about to replace front rotors & brakepads, also rear drum and pads. What do you guys think?

I have a 100K miles on my car, I guess it time to replace new rotor. My question is do I really need to re-surface or machine the new rotors or new drum before install them with brand new brake shoe, anyone know?

I am having the same problem with both of the seats, I pull off the electrical power which provides to the thermal inside the seat. The wire is in the back of the seat (remove the back pocket cover), you will see a connector with red and black wire. Just measure the voltage out of this connect while switching ON and OFF.

Why are you messing with that for? I would clean your throttle first and also clean the fuel injectors.

I think most of the cars are not durable compare to Lexus. My opinion, about getting a car for retirement. I would consideration on how long I would keep the car, what kind the car I would like Luxury or sport? If only keep the car for couple years with trouble free, any new cars are fine. The only problem left is luxury or sport and how much money do I want to spend?

srgillbert, it's a pain in the butt you swap the rears one

Buddy, you have to specific about your car does not start. When you turn the key did you hear engine turns? How does it sound when you turn the key? It's important to know since when can not hear or see when you start your car. The are many possible thing happen when your car does not start, if it not the battery, then it could be starter, ignitor, etc......

Where did you get your Senors? I wonder there are different between dealers and OEM parts? I called Toyota dealer in Carson, CA. They quote me for $110 for each front one, and $120 for rears one. But Autozone quoted me for front @ $90 and $240 for rear. Kind of expensive!!!!!!

My car were vibrated @2000rpm for awhile with engine code p0430, indicated the cat problem. It also made weird sucking noise from underneath where the cat were at. Finally, I replaced the cat, the car stopped vibrated, but code p0420 engine code is ON. I was thinking about swapping the O2 Sensor 1 between bank 1 & 2, see if the new code changed to p0430, if not, I will swap Sensor 2 between bank 1 & 2 again. Before the swap I also think that I will cleaned them good with WD40.

blake918, Did you get your cats fix from the dealer?

I have had this similar problem for two years and now still got the same head ache. I thought the technique of swapping O2 sensor is a brillion idea, and some of you had replaced the O2 sensors and I did replaced both cats but still have the same problem. I thought sometimes it had to do with the gas that where you got. The last time, I drove 500 miles and Engine light is ON again, P0420 thredhold bank1. I had no idea what is this code for? CATs (I replaced both already), may be O2 Sensors, may be Gas, or leaks somewhere? Second thought, I can think of is may be leaks between manifold and engine. Sometimes I smell unburn fuel from underneath engine. Someone at Autozone to me to use a gas torge and had it on without and fires while keeps the engine running, this way, you can tell any leaks. If there are some leaks then you should see alot of sucking from that area, it's trying to draw all the gas in that leak. Anyone here succesfully fix the problem? I am think getting rid of this car 147Kmiles 95' LS400

what about the MPG for the big !Removed! Rocket shooting up the space? Anyone in here design that?

you should search for "back light instrument panel" it does tell you how to remove that darn thing off, and that's how you can replace the bulb from there.

What is MAF? is that the ruber intake hose with sensor where it's connected to throtle body? Just wonder.

Just bought a weekend car X5 2003 Bimmer 55K miles. This car ride smooth. I just replace oil change, air filter and oil filter. This car is slick for oil change much ez ier than the lexus. Does anyone here own a BImmer and know any website similar to this Lexusownersclub, please give some inputs? I plan changing steering fluid, Brake fuild flush and Radiar flush. Is my maintance appropriate at 55K miles? Thanks for any inputs

I heard someone in here had a similar problem with yours, the problem was when the car get to the stop the idle get lower than 500rpm and die, another one had a problem with getting off ramp and engine stall after that. I remmemberred they had to replace the ECU to solve there problem.

Let us know how thing turnout! After replacing the old cat, I see there were alot of gunk in the Bee nest, I guess it resolve one problem so far. Since I took so long (1yr) to replace the cat. Do you think think the ECU mess up? My question is that the engine code does not appears right away on next day, but I have drove for 150 miles and the engine light has not been ON yet.

The Autozone guy told me that may be a leak at between the magnifold and cylinder head. To troubleshoot this problem, he suggests to use a torch with loose air and set it near the gasket, and make sure has the car running while doing in it. This way, we can figure out where the leak at. I worry about blowing up myself even though the torch is not lite up. Your thoughts guy.

After I replaced the cat and reset the EFI1 and EFI2 by removed and pluged back the fuse from the fuse box. Now the engine code appear again after 500 miles -1000 miles driving. it's seem to be the same code P0420 but this time it does not say anything about Bank 1. Does anyone know what else code be wrong? I also recently just had the AutoZone guy reset the computer by using the Scaner this time, instead of pluging off the EFI fuse.

I don't know the brand, I had a local ordered and replaced for me. The different is the car is moother on start up, idle in couple hundred lower, no bad smell from the unburn fuel.