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I replaced my complete rack myself (91 LS400) with just what you have=a floor jack and stands. Its a very dirty job but worth doing yourself. A very reputable shop quoted me 200. to install, but also told me I could do it myself if I didnt mind getting dirty.. I would suggest because of the year and mileage? that you should buy the complete rack with the solenoid rather than swapping in your old solenoid or just replacing a boot. I got mine from a supplier for 325. and got back 175. for the old core. They paid for the return shipping too! Check out their website> discountsteering.com it also comes with a 3 yr warranty..Good luck, Bobby

Hello all.. I have a problem with dash again. The Icon for the headlights comes on when I start the car, but I checked all the lights and everything is working. I even checked the rear lights including the back-up lights, directionals, etc. and everything is OK.. Any thoughts on this?? Thanks, Bobby

bba-reman.com is the name and they rebuild your unit. Had mine done 175 bux and they paid shipping both ways ! I couldnt find anyone that had rebuilt units.. Check out the website... Bobby

I could use tan front seats and Nakamichi power amp if they will fit my 91 LS400.. Pics if possible, Thanks, Bobby

I put a rebuilt alternator on my 91 LS 2 days ago and it worked for about a day and a half and my warning lights came back on again, same scenario as before I put alternator on; -parking brake light, battery light, low radiator light, seat belt light but not CEL.. Could this be a short somewhere, checked all cables and connections and everything seems OK. When the problem first happened, when the warning lights came on I could increase the RPMs and they would go out and stay out until the car would be idling or driving very slow. This time no matter what the RPMs are the lights stay on.. I really am confused and need any kind of input please...Thanks, Bobby

Thanks RDM Thats what it looks like from underneath, havent taken it off yet. Only went to AZone to have it tested. Will look for OEM. Thanks, Bobby

I was told buy a rebuilder that because of the PS leak I had, brushes would not be the only parts needing replacement. He mentioned stators, windings, diodes all of which means not too much to me. He suggested I buy a rebuilt or new one. And by the way he does not sell them, so he's not trying to con me.. Thanks, Bobby

Thanks "landar" for replying, I dont have heated seats or anything extra special just the usual power acc. I went to AZone just to have it tested and see what kind of alt they carried and they said they are all rebuilt and some cores come from Denso some from other makers but all are rebuilt the same. Im not sure if its the original on my car but if it is, it might just be tired after 240,000 miles and previous leaking PS valve. I found a couple of places that sell new alts for under 200. Thant sounds like a good deal considering Azone wants $158 plus core for a rebuilt one. What do you think?? Thanks again, Bobby The amperage rating of the alt probably depends upon your accessories. Any special features on your car that might demand a heavy-duty alt? Do you have heated seats? Honestly if you have the original alt on your car, I would just have it rebuilt and keep it original. However, if you do buy aftermarket, go with a more premium brand (usually not at AZ).

Took my LS to Autozone to check alternator this morning and they said not putting out sufficient voltage to sustain engine and accessories at idle and not enough even at highway speeds.. My question is they have the replacement they say is rated @100Amps with a round pluggin and dealer says it comes in either 100Amps or 145Amps with either a round pluggin or a kind of rectangular pluggin.. I havent taken it off yet so I dont know about the pluggin connection yet..Which is right 100 or 145, round or rectangular..or are they both right??? 1991 LS400. Thanks, Bobby

The lights dont flicker no matter what I have on at any time, and the battery is about 6 mo old and is the most cranking power one I could buy.. If the alternator got soaked from the PS leak would it just be the brushes or something more serious? I just got home from work (11pm) so I will try to check the charging rate with everything on in the morning. If its less than around 13V you would guess its the alternator? My next step would probably be take it to Autozone and have them check the alternator with their equipment.. Thanks you both for your replies...Bobby By the way, I fixed the PS leak about 2 months ago, no problems since....

Hello all...Slight problem tonite when starting engine, when the engine idled down after warming up some, lights came on in my dash..oil, battery, brake etc, but not CEL.. I put a meter on the battery and it was charging at about 12.7 at idle but the lights on dash were still on. When I increased the idle the lights went out and it was charging at about 13.5 or so. I let it idle again and no lights. I shut it off for a few minutes and started it again and at idle the lights came on again until I revved it some then they went out.. Do you think my alternator is going south??, or is it something else.. I did have a leaky PS valve about two months ago but I plugged the outlet and have had no trouble since.. Thanks for any input, Bobby

Just found your reply, I live in South Florida No idea what they are worth, what do you need to get? Thanks, Bobby

thanks for the diagrams, it should make it a lot easier than guessing how it comes apart and goes back together..Thanks again, Bobby

Does anyone have a pic or diagram of the sunroof drain hoses on a 91 LS 400, also is it possible to use a thin snake to kind of clear out the drain tubes ? Not sure exactly where to start ! When I open the slider it is perfectly dry all around the channel it sits in even if it is still raining, but my headliner is soaked ! Could it be coming from somewhere else ? Thanks for any and all suggestions, Bobby

I finally found a 17mm wrench (had to buy a set of stubbies). They are about 5 inches long so I should be able to get in there to take the old valve out. What a dirty job! Also picked up a bolt and am going to just seal it up for good I hope. I just want to thank you for the info and am glad to see that there are more people like yourself on this forum...Thanks again, Bobby

I'm trying to get the air control valve off of the P/S pump and it seems like its an 11/16 but not sure; also normal wrench gives no room to loosen or tighten.. I plugged both lines going to the engine and even with the spring clips on the hoses, when you run the engine I guess the pressure pops off one of the lines at the valve.. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks, Bobby

I have a similar problem..replaced battery and stereo asked for a security code for access. I entered my code and it would not take it and then after a few tries, the whole stereo went blank and I cannot get it to do anything..Asked dealer about it and they said leave the car and they could reset it but I dont want to pay the outrageous price they would charge me.. Is there anyway around this?? Im sure some owners have had this problem and someone must know how to correct this situation... Thanks very much for your time and suggestions, Bobby

Some call it a tomayto, some call it a tomahto!!!!!LMAO!!!!!

Bump Me too! Mine registers from zero to about 200 no matter what speed the engine is at...

Im looking for a Nakamichi amp for my 91 LS, Is this the main amp? I thought there was only one amp in the system... Thanks, Bobby

I have a leak around the idle air valve at the bottom of the P/S pump and am wondering if I should replace the valve because I have a NEW one or should I just put a bolt in it. The nipple on the air intake tube is broken and plugged so I would have to replace the intake tube which is big bux. Would you plug it and try to sell the NEW valve to someone who could really use it? It is still in the packaging and I paid 90 bux for it. If I put the new one in, could I just cap the nipples on the valve or just use the bolt and seal it with Hi-Temp RTV? Thanks for your input... Bobby

Looking to buy tan drivers seat for 91LS400, will take both if I have to... Thanks

I think your Lex should go back to the dealer...I bought a rebuilt rack and pinion with the solenoid attached for 285 bux and installed it myself (would have only cost 200 bux to have it installed by a reputable front end shop, but I could do it myself), and have no problem with wandering... Suggest checking other suspension and steering related parts for wear and tear also. Good luck with the dealers, Bobby

Thanks for your reply.. I'll change out the thermostat first and see what happens. If not then I'll change the sensor.. Thanks again, Bobby 10-12 MPG is pretty low so unless you have a chronic lead foot or 1200 pounds of deadweight in your trunk there seems to be something wrong. The thermostat doesn't tell the ECU anything. The thermostat regulates the cooling systems temperature. The temperature sensor/sender sends a temperature reading to the dial gauge. As RDM states there is a second sensor that sends temperature reading to the ECU. If your gauge is reading low it could be the temp truly is low because the thermostat has failed and is stuck open. This is a common failure and would explain why the block either never warms up or takes very long to do so. The other possibility is the sensor for the ECU is truly faulty and sending too low a temperature reading to the ECU causing it to make an incorrect fuel decision resulting in rich mix and wasted fuel hence poor MPG. Given your dash shows low temp and you are getting poor MPG maybe it points more likely to a bad thermostat. If you have a DVM meter you can measure the sensors resistance at various temps to see if the sensor is giving a false reading. Since a thermostat and sensor are pretty inexpensive it may be easier to change both and be done with it. Depends how much you value your time. My hunch is to try a new thermostat first.

I get about 10 to 12 MPG around town and use medium grade gas and thats without the A/C ! I'm thinking my thermostat is bad and telling my ECU that the engine temp is cold and its running rich all the time since the gauge only reads one notch up from cold all the time....Does that sound logical??