fsuguy

joebob1, that is the most sensible approach I have seen to date on this forum, to this needle blackout problem in the early models! Thank you for sharing this info. My '92 LS400 needles are still good, so I don't have to resort to any of these methods, but since my tach does not move unless I hit some high revs, when it barely moves, I think that when I finally decide to go in, I may dislodge the conductive paint on the needles and will have to use your technique! Thx

Hi 93ls400walt, I have a '92 LS400 with >183K and had the same shifting problem. Decided to check the shift solenoids - if you decide to do yourself, you will need to be careful while disconnecting the wire connectors to the shift solenoids - they will be brittle so use some kind of heat gun before trying to disconnect them. I broke mine - the little tabs that keep them in the solenoid, and had to use some kind of plastic tie. Alternatively, if you do break these solenoid connectors I think you may have to get the wire harness that lnks them to the ECM, and not sure how much work that will entail, since this harness goes through the tranny! Once you have disconnected the solenoids, there are only two bolts to undo and they should pop off (at least for the '92 version of the A341E tranny. HTH fsuguy

93ls400walt, Thank you for the reply. I have not had a chance to check these out yet, but will. Do you think the EGR pipe leaking may have anything to do with this shifting problem? I mean, the shifting appears to be fine until the engine warms up to what appears to be normal operating temp, and only then I begin having problems with shifter!(?) Thx

Also check to make sure it is not coming from the two bearings - idler pulley and belt tensioner pulley; these two bearings get bad after a while. HTH B)

Hi LSers, Has anyone experienced this problem, and if so what should I look for(?) transmission shifts ok while engine is not yet at normal operating temperature (about the second line up); once engine reaches normal operating temperature, shifting goes south - seems like it does not want to change in an orderly manner - O/D light begins blinking, etc. It seems like it is either in O/D, or in second (not sure which). I have to go manual into L from D to operate semi-normally. I checked the MIL/CEL codes and get these: Check Engine - 71 (EGR I think); Transmission: 63 (Shift solenoid 2), 67 (O/D speed sensor). I have not done anything about any of these since I am not sure whether they are the culprits. I checked the shift solenoids prior to getting the Tranny rebuilt, and they operated normally outside the transmission; also all four solenoids resistances were within tolerance ranges (outside the tranny); For the EGR - found that if I remove the EFI fuse and main engine relay, the CEL light goes out and remains off for several days before coming back on(?) So, not sure whether these two are related. Took the car to Toyota (No Lexus dealerships in town) and after keeping it for the whole day, they told me they were not sure, but it could be the TPS, the EGR modulator, the VSV(?), EGR valve; said it could be all, some, or some combination of these components. Any advice from experienced owners/listers would be very helpful indeed! If I do have to change the speed sensor #2 or the O/D speed sensor, does anyone have a tutorial for this operation? I got under and could not find the darn things! Thanks in Advance

Hi, I happened to top off my tank (1992 LS400) with super unleaded from a Hess and am not sure whether the gas actually contained ethanol. The sign on the pump said 'less than 10% ethanol', but I am now noticing that the engine (have not put in any other gas) is sort of bogging down. Any ideas of what to look for or do to resolve this would be much appreciated. Thx Mike

2JZTWIN TURBO, Can you give me a price on a pair of replacement hood struts for a 1992 LS400? (zip 32308) TIA Mike

Hi 90Celsior, I have a 92 LS400 and the same problem! Car came with the problem - needle below zero, moves slightly with high RPMs, all other gauges work. I have not had a chance to check into the issue, but various check are indicated. One of the threads in the forum suggests sticky needle (hardened grease(?)), although I wonder about that. If you find out how to fix, I would appreciate the info. TIA Mike

wwest, thanks for the reply. I checked and was reading the resistance at the 2K setting. After correcting, it appears that the solenoids are good (yeaaay!!!) Now I have to decide how to fix my broken wire connectors! Some kind of plastic retainer to keep them in the solenoid got broken (solenoid #3 & #4). Do you know if the wire harness is replaceable without removing a lot of stuff? Would I have to drop the valve body and transmission to do this? TIA Mike

wwest, I used a digital meter, and thought perhaps the gauge itself would have difficulty measuring the low resistance value of the solenoids. I will double check against known values to be sure. However, in your opinion, due you think the really low resistance values matter if the solenoids actually function with an electric current? If I have to change all four, that amounts to a huge whack!!! TIA Mike

Hi, I am trying to resolve my shifting problems and so dropped the oil pan and removed the four solenoids breaking two of the wire connectors (#3 & #4); so I have the following questions: 1. Solenoid specified resistance tolerance for #3 is 4 to 5 ohms, and #4 is 5 to 6 ohms; #2 and #1 is about 12 ohms. My tests showed #3 & #4 were at .004 & .005 ohms, and #1 & #2 were about .014 ohms; all four solenoids moved briskly when subjected to 12 volts, and #3 & #4 were variable with lower currents. Does the lowered resistance affect shifting, and should I plunk down the $$$ for the new solenoids? 2. Since I broke the two wire connectors to the solenoids (#3 & #4) how hard is it to replace the wire harness, or is there any alternative someone can suggest, (tutorial maybe)? Car is a 1992 with A341E transmission Thank You in Advance mike :o

macmacs, I am pretty new to this forum, so you may want to check with someone more knowledgeable; however, I believe that the '92 LS400 came standard with the A341e transmission, which has 4 solenoids - 1and 2 control the gears, 3 and 4 moderate the shifting for shock, smoothness etc. The A341e is supposed to be a bit different from the A340, and was used in several different models, including the Volvo 960, SC400, and some SUVs. I believe there are some lists floating around which indicate the vehicles outfitted with the A341e. HTH

Lexuszeal, Thank you very much for the info. I will try this, and flushing, since I have the fluid, and the sealant.

What are you looking for exactly? I have a parts ls400 in my yard. The suspension is complete. Wheels are good what intake parts are you looking for give me a list I'll see what I can do. Rich rich13, I am looking for the tabs (woodgrain) that fit on the armrest for the rear doors of a '92 LS400. If you have those, can you (or anyone else that has parts) give me a price? thanks

Hi Lexuszeal, I am happy for you! I have not had the trouble you had, but I have tranny shifting problems until the engine has run for at least 30 minutes, and even then I don't have reverse until the car has been run hard for a while. Can you tell me how difficult it was to clean the filter and flush the system? Also, which side is the sensor #2 on, as I want to change the one on my car (1992)? Thanks

Bali26 & Leadfoot, Thank you for the comments - I have been using Type IV, and also looked at the TE1 and EI jumped code (61); this translated into a speed sensor 2 problem! I have tried finding information from the two owners manuals (Vol 1 & 2) but there does not seem to be any other info on that, other than it may affect OD (4th gear) operation. I am waiting for a copy of RM235U (tranmission repair manual) to diagnose further, but do you think the solenoids may be intermittently gumming up? When I step on the brakes, the car does not brake smoothly - sort of like a mild juddering. Also, if it is the solenoids (1 or 2 I think), how difficult would it be to clean or change them? Thank You Again

Do you know where the crankshaft oil seal is located? I pulled the crankshaft pulley off and have the seal but cant seem to find it... Thank you, Lance Hi, You can check out the following site for a tutorial on the transmission - has a lot of good information including pics of a transmission removal, etc.: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/. hth

Hi can anyone help me with this problem - if i start the car in the morning, and shift from Park into L, then into R, I have reverse. But if the engine runs for a short while, then reverse does not work(?) Also, I don't have any drive (D, 2nd, L, etc.) until the engine has run for at least 30 minutes(?). R does not work at all unless the evil thing has been run hard for a while. I have checked the fluid, and it appears to be full. Also, the O/D does not work consistently - feels like the beast stays in 3rd. Any ideas or suggestions would be very much appreciated. Oops, the car is a '92 LS400 Thanks :cries:

I believe that the number of flashes of the O/D indicator light are codes that can tell you what signals are not being received by the ECT/ECU. Count the flashes/blinks and post them. Someone will very likely have the answer.

Hi LS'ers, I am new to this formum and apologize in advance for any blunders. My brother just gave me a '92 LS 400 which for the most part is in excellent shape. I have been going over the machine and replacing and fixing those items that are either missing, broken, or need repair, and would like some advice on where to get the following parts: 1. dust covers for the fog lamps 2. Internal wood trim for rear doors (the brown walnut(?) stuff on the door arm rest things. 3. Headlight assembly (only the back stuff that holds in the headlights and foglamps Any other pointers for maintainence tips would be very helpful for me. Also, I have been following the very useful the threads on this forum and would like to know what "pinned" means. TIA mike