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Everything posted by fsuguy

  1. Hi itsdancarl, This is a bit of a long shot, since "chatter" is not clear to me. However, if you have a "clunk" when you go over a slight bump, bumpy roads, or when you are moving fairly slowly and hit the brake, soft or hard, it is possible that your front strut rod bushings are either worn out or have reached the end of their usable life. For the first generation LS400s, this bushing is a pretty thick rubber bushing (about 1") and around 3" in diameter sandwiched between two steel plates with 3 bolt holes around the perimeter, and a single one in the middle. Do not confuse this
  2. Hi, This may be a bit late, but if you have not resolved your issues, maybe you could please explain what you mean by it engages all gears - do you mean the shifter moves through the range of positions - L,1,2,3, R, etc., but the vehicle only moves in those you listed? The LS 400 transmission (at least the Gen. 1 version) has 4 solenoids, and I forget which ones serve which functions, but when these start to fail, your transmission will begin to show symptoms of failure. I know one of the longer solenoids are for the overdrive, but you can always look up that information online. Ho
  3. OK all you smarties, here is question that has me baffled - when replacing the fuel pump on these first gen LS400s, there are two options listed 1. The Denso, and 2. The Aisan (guatamala) Does anyone know what the difference is, and why? I was replacing the FP in my 1992, and not knowing any better, got the Denso from an online supplier based on their claim that it was an exact match replacement for the factory installed FP. When I got the existing FP out, however, the construction was all metal and much more robust, with a couple of shiny bands at the base. I did not see any
  4. If I am following all of this correctly, all your electrical troubles began after the alternator was replaced? If that is correct, I would suspect the alternator. Have it thoroughly checked out first. I think the original LS400 alternator is rated at 100amps - remember that the LS has a lot of electrical components all greedy for power. Good luck
  5. This may be a bit late and you may have already resolved your noise issue. You may have a loose/ill-fitting weatherstrip around the top and sides of the window glass; however, if that were the case, you would hear a whistling noise that would be easily identifiable as the source of the noise. I would suggest checking your transmission mount; if it is worn, you will have some noise that would be hard to pinpoint as being due to the mount, but will blend in with other road noise. Also, if your sun-roof inside cover is open, you will have more road noise. By the way, the issue with
  6. This is an old thread, but it is germane, and will possibly help others with these old models. I did some investigating after my oil level light would intermittently come on at highway speeds over 70 or so, and then go off, even though the oil level was at the correct marker on the dipstick. Turns out that there are two possible reasons this may occur: 1. The oil circuit is not allowing the oil back into the oil pan fast enough to allow the sensor to give a safe reading, or 2. The sensor itself is marginal (since it works off and on). The sensor itself is a float type, and is d
  7. Chances are that if the shop worked on the starter, the connector to the heater control valve was disconnected, and/or the entire assembly moved to allow room for the starter work to be done. I would look for the heater control valve - it is on the passenger side firewall on gen. 1 LS400 models - and should have the cable connected to a movable lever that regulates the water flow. It is an easily overlooked reconnect when other more major repairs are being done. Also, while you are about it, you probably should verify that all your related hose connections/clamps are tight to save yourself a
  8. my $.02: Have you verified that your Throttle Position Sensor is not on its way out? This should be a pretty quick fix; also, you may be able to pick up a used IACV from a boneyard for relatively little, or alternatively rebuild your own one if you are careful (aluminium housing and surfaces can be easily damaged!) - it will require a careful disassembly and then some cleaning - biggest problem I found during disassembly was the three tiny flat-head screws almost getting stripped due to rust. There are two bearings,either or both of which may be failing, but an off-vehicle test will let you
  9. Hi, If your coils and fuel supply are fine, and you have no acceleration, it may just possibly be the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Look up any posts on this and you may find some suggestions. I had a similar problem with my '92 and changing the TPS resolved it. For really good and detailed instructions, look up the lexls site. Good luck!
  10. Steve2006, Thank you for posting that bit of info about the '91-'92. Can you let us know whether the C6 Capacitor is the only one for the '91-'92 model years? My dash lights and Needle lights began blinking, then go out completely, and I want to fix them all in one shot (hate having to deal with those pesky connectors at the back!). Thanks for your help
  11. I know this thread is over three years old, and probably of little use except to a small group or enthusiasts, but it is good info and comes from an ECU expert (not me!) who knows about these things - many ECUs from around '88 through '99 often had capacitors that leaked after several years in service, and the electrolyte leaking onto the circuit boards can corrode the circuitry, causing all sorts of driveability problems. The good news is that with a little careful soldering and the correct replacement capacitors, the ECU can be restored to its original functionality, if the circuit boards
  12. Great post, Landar... Thank you!
  13. You probably should begin eliminating things one at a time - first check to see if your coils are good; there is testing process that requires you to check the resistances between primary and secondary windings. Once you eliminate the coils as a potential source of the problem, move onto the fuel, etc., etc. By the way, you would get more helpful responses if you provided some more background information like whether you had any work done on it, whether it has been sitting idle for a while, whether you just got it, or other problems leading up to this issue, for anyone choosing to try and pr
  14. Hi, Glad you have your wheels back, and working well. Also, thank you for posting your solution - it helps us all!!!
  15. This link shows the difference between the different year models: Also, if your alternator is the original one that came with the car, it is of a much better quality than the ones you get from discount stores - you may be better off getting it rewound if the armature is bad, or alternatively, if you are lucky and only the brushes are worn out, replace them for probably $20.00 at the most. Hope this helps
  16. I think you should take a look at your alternator plug - I may be wrong, but you won't lose any time if you do check it out before you pick up a replacment. The '92 has a round plug, and if I remember correctly, some other model years have a different shaped plug. Also, the amperage is around 100 for the '92, so keep that in mind as well. Given the work you are going to have to do to get the alternator out, I would suggest looking around online for a new OEM one and save yourself some more work later. However, one other thing to know if you are set on getting a used one - check for leaks
  17. Hi, This is not to detract from the sage advice given already by engineers and the very experienced - check those suggestions out as well; however, under the assumption that you are pretty confident about the state of your car/performance before the work done by the shop, and other things being equal, let me suggest there is a good possibility that the O2 sensors actually may have been affected since the work was on the exhaust system. The following is extracted directly from a Toyota manual on ECU performance (note the references to injector duration): Engine Duration Correcton Factors "..
  18. I would suggest following the tips about the fluid first - if those are up to spec and your idle is fine, then you may want to check the solenoids. There are four solenoids and either the 3rd or 4th on serves to damp the shift shock - don't recall which one. The first two solenoids are for the gears shifts and are identical to each other. The 3rd and 4th have longer necks and are different. Replacing them is fairly straight-forward if you have a means of raising the car high enough, and are reasonably competent with ordinary hand tools. It will involve removing the transmission oil pan (
  19. ...see my post on your last thread regarding the same vehicle - there was a post also from landar that you probably should check out.
  20. ...couple additional things, and some of the more experienced engineers can chime in anytime - If the car idles more or less fine, but dies when given gas, then two possibilities exist: a. It is not getting enough fuel to combust the higher air volume mixture (too much air volume for the metered fuel), or b. Spark strength is not enough to combust the denser mixture (I think this is a very low probability), so... Do a vacuum test...the idle too fast is symptomatic of higher than normal volume of air - possibly a vacuum leak - do the test and verify the correct level of vacuum - there sho
  21. Steve2006, Much better with pictures!! Wish I had this info when I started out. Thanks for posting the link.
  22. For those of you who are planning on tinkering with the ECU, or any of the other troublesome critters behind the glove-box and kick-panel, etc.: First read everything completely - you will have a good idea of what to expect. These instructions are for a '92LS 400 (gen 1), and may or may not apply to other year models! 1. Open the glove-box (GB), and look carefully for five plastic "plugs"; I say carefully because these are felt covered and are cunningly camouflaged to blend in with the luxurious felt lining in the glove-box! There are three on the bottom and two on the roof of the GB, ev
  23. Thank you Freegard... For those of you who are planning on tinkering with the ECU, or any of the other troublesome critters behind the glove-box and kick-panel, etc.: First read everything completely - you will have a good idea of what to expect. These instructions are for a '92LS 400 (gen 1), and may or may not apply to other year models! 1. Open the glove-box (GB), and look carefully for five plastic "plugs"; I say carefully because these are felt covered and are cunningly camoflaged to blend in with the luxurious felt lining in the glove-box! There are three on the bottom and two on
  24. This may sound silly, but check for fuel. Everything being the same, it appears most likely to be the culprit. Otherwise, check both the high tension leads or wires to the coils - depending on where you stored the car, if it was not moved at all, squirrels or rats may have gotten into the engine bay and played havoc with the wires among other things!!!
  25. Hi List, I am attempting to check my ECU but need some help with removing the plastic lower right kick-panel without breaking the darn thing. Can someone who has already done this ('92 LS400) kindly post the secret. I have removed the Glove-box liner and the lower plastic kick-panel's plastic screws. The books indicates there are four clips at the top of the panel, but they are not visible and I am not sure whether I should pull the panel straight out, down, or pry one way or another!!! TIA
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