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RexLexus, Check out Toyodiy.com. They have an excellent reference resource with parts names, numbers, etc. If you register (no cost), you will be able to see the schematics; if you don't register, you will only see the part names and numbers. HTH Mike

...another thing to check is the resistor (should be on the right inner fender near the relay and igniters). From one of these related threads, it looks like the fuel pump has two circuits, one of which is for high demand situations. From what I read, juice to the FP is routed via the FP resistor, and these occasionally go south! You could check to see if these get powered up when you turn on the key. mike

If the '90 is similar to the '92, then your relays on the left (behind the battery) include the Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), cooling fan relays (x2), seat heater relays, cigarette lighter relay, headlights, horn etc. Sorry I cannot be more detailed - this is just from memory from working on my '92. HTH Mike

bullen727, Is your fuse blowing or is it your bulb? In my '92, one of the two of my right rear brake light bulbs kept blowing and the fuse kept blowing as well. Finally to get to the bottom of the problem, I stripped the trunk and looked at the wire-harness leading up to the light assembly. Turns out that the heat from the bulb had melted the insulation on the hot wire in the bulb holder assembly, which in turn caused the wires to short to ground, arc the bulb, and blow the fuse. After I cleaned up the mess, everything worked as before - good! In the process, I also eliminated some of the well documented trunk wire problem! My yellow ground wire had a break internally! HTH mike

ssdoeg2, My '92 began having the same problems about 2 years ago - it would not go into any gear until I let it run for about 20 minutes! The problems began slowly and then got worse. Initially it was only reverse gear, but when L & D started giving me problems, had had enough! Took it into a transmission shop and had them work it over. Turns out that the seals were basically shot and had to be replaced. Everything else inside was basically sound, although the shop decided to replace the torque converter and I think one set of bands, although I am not sure about the bands. Before I took it in, however, I changed my fluid, cleaned out the pan, solenoids, etc., but no change. Hope this helps. Mike

Not sure whether this may help, but have you checked your fuse block inside the car? Under the dash by the pedals, there is a fuse block. In my '92 there is a plastic cover, and yours may be similar. HTH mike

Hi dbullen, I never recieved your e-mail. Mine is mike@nettally.com, or robertsm@fdhc.state.fl.us; Do you still have the parts? Can you e-mail me a listing of the parts you do still have, and also my original question: "Hi dbullen, I have a '92 LS400 with a pale blue interior and am looking for the following parts: 1. Cup holder and mint condition cover (i.e. unbroken) - the door that flips up to cover up the cup holder; 2. Functioning lamp failure sensor module (the module that fits in the trunk); 3. Front driver's side outside door handle. If you can let me know whether you still have these items and whether they are in good shape, i would like to purchase them (Please send me shipping cost and payment that would be acceptable to you at my e-mail address: mike@nettally.com.)" Thx Mike

Here is link to a message with detailed instructions on replacing the driver's side IC. Hope it helps you. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=60609&st=0&p=389588&fromsearch=1entry389588

Hi, It may be that the rotors are worn excessively (beyond specifications - rotor/hub run-out) and therefore resulting in the vibrations you are experiencing. If it is not the thickness issue, then it may be the rust causing the vibration. If your rotors are worn out, it is possible that the replacements were not the OEM (or OEM quality) ones. See the Lexus section in the following link on brake vibration: http://arrc.epnet.com/autoasp/framerq.asp. Hope this helps Mike

Hi dbullen, I have a '92 LS400 with a pale blue interior and am looking for the following parts: 1. Cup holder and mint condition cover (i.e. unbroken) - the door that flips up to cover up the cup holder; 2. Functioning lamp failure sensor module (the module that fits in the trunk); 3. Front driver's side outside door handle. If you can let me know whether you still have these items and whether they are in good shape, i would like to purchase them (Please send me shipping cost and payment that would be acceptable to you at my e-mail address: mike@nettally.com.) Thanking You Sincerely Mike Roberts

Hi listers, It sounds like you know whereof you speak, so I am hoping one of you may be able to help diagnose my problem - the car is a '92LS400, and it has very poor throttle response once it warms up to normal operating temperature. The CEL indicates 25 (lean) but I am only getting about 12mpg(?) When cold, the engine is smooth and sounds fine, but when warmed up it is miserable. I had the plugs, wires, distributor caps and rotors with original parts from Lexus (from Sewell) and Toyota, replaced about 3 to 4 months ago, but I think this may be a fuel pump or related problem. Just don't know where to start. One other strange issue is that after warmed up, while driving, every so often the engine sort of loses power almost as if the fuel is cut off, or the spark is not getting to the engine, then it resumes. This "surge" is very noticeable and I am wondering if any of you have experienced it, and have any idea of what it may be due to. I had just changed my TPS because in addition to the "25", there was a CEL of "41" (TPS) which has since gone away following the replacement of the TPS. I would appreciate any suggestions of what to look for, or how to resolve the issue. Thanks in Advance Mike

jqzhang, Look at the left hinge of your trunk - there is a cluster of wiring that goes to the taillights; the wiring from the factory was probably too short and due to flexing over time, either one or more wires in the cluster break inside the insulation causing a variety of odd problems. You will need to first release the wire bundle from the hinge, then unwrap the electrical tape around it. Now this is the difficult part - you will need to check each of the wires separately to find out whether it is broken inside its insulator. If you are "lucky" the break will include the insulator. You probably should check the yellow wire first, then the black ones. HTH Mike

lex460, Can you post some pics of how to hook up a pressure gauge to the fuel rail? I have a '92 and want to check my fuel pressure 'cause once the engine has warmed up, I lose performance drastically! Any help in this area would be very much appreciated. TIA Mike

steve2006, Thank for for that info. Did you recall the exact capacitors (type etc.)? All advice and information points out to a serious size and space limitation on the board, so it would be very helpful to have this information before I begin. TIA Mike

hi flipstyle808, The idler pulley is at the top right of the engine (if you are looking at it from the front of the car). Using either a long breaker bar on the belt tensioner pulley bolt, take the pressure off the serpentine belt - this is the belt that drives your alternator, water pump, power steering and fan, etc. Don't horse anything - you should not have to push too hard to know if you are taking the tension off the belt! Once you do that, slip the belt off the tensioner pulley and slowly let the pressure off the belt tensioner pulley. Next remove the belt off the idler pulley and using correct sized socket with the breaker bar or a hefty wrench, remove the idler pulley bolt. If the idler pulley is really shot to bits, it may come off in pieces; if not, there should be one center bolt and a largish washer. Don't lose the washer or bolt since your new part does not come with those (mine didn't!). Replace everything in the same order. Make sure you follow the torque specifications for the bolt when replacing it - sorry I don't have that info with me at the moment. HTH :) Mike

Thank you again for the helpful comments and suggestions, I agree with killerFatty - $300.00 for a couple of capacitors and the soldering seems way too much for this job. It would be helpful to know exactly which capacitors would be needed for the job, though, since I would be able to order them in advance before starting. There is a bunch of info for fixing the '93 and '94 model years circuit boards, but none for the '90-'92! :) mike

mach, I just had my timing belt, water pump, cam seals, rotor and distributor caps, plug wires, plugs, and valve cover seals replaced. The Toyota mechanic who did the work said that there was a very tiny leak by the oil level sensor. I did not think much of it, but now every now and then my oil level light (the orange one) lights up. I checked the oil level and it's fine, so I think the oil leak probably has messed up the connection to the sensor. Perhaps this may be your problem too(?) Let us know what you find out. Mike

jcrome (and all the rest of you that responded): Thank you for your thougts, suggestions, and comments. I have read through almost every thread relating to cluster lighting on this forum, and several more on the web, in general, but no mention of this issue on the '92. Anyway, I am going to try the repair route, since it is most likely that a used cluster will be subject to the same service life limitations as my original cluster. When I do repair, I will post my findings/work-arounds, or whatever I decide to do to fix it so it may possibly help other '92 owners. I must say that it gets very exciting when the lighting fails and all I can see are four glowing needles pointing aimlessly!!! Too bad the Toyota fracas cannot help us too! :D Mike

Smoke is probably leaking valve covers - oil drips onto the hot exhaust components and smokes. You probably notice this as occasional puffs of smoke(?); gasoline smell is troublesome, but not hard to track down; airbag light - on you can try to find a thread on this forum to turn it off. That leaves the "trac off"!!! HTH Mike

Just to want to add to the curious list, as the symptoms quoted are Alternator, there is a rectifier with the Collar Adjusting Alternator, if this is fused, you would have the brushes getting worn out faster, and later the condenser blowing out. You may want to look at these also. I would add one small suggestion to the most excellent testing write-up by curiousB, and the additional note by mann777: Check to see whether your power steering fluid is leaking - this is usually a prime culprit for failing alternators - the PS is mounted just above the alternator and when it leaks the fluid drips right onto the alternator eventually causing failure. If you have a leak, fix it at the same time you fix the alternator. Also look up this forum for a picture of a makeshift shield (looks like a sort of plastic bottle trimmed to fit on the alternator) to protect the alternator. HTH Mike

wilsomy, If your cats are glowing red, and you have just changed both coils, plugs and wires, something is wrong with your ignition - you are burning gas outside your combustion chamber. The fuel is igniting in the exhaust/catalytic converter area. Recheck both coils and your plugs/wires, etc. Somewhere the spark is getting lost! HTH Mike

93ls400walt....thanks for the advice.....i will check for cracks in the wiring where you described.....I will report later on the weekend....i have heard of this wiring check before but have never of this as being the culprit I will advise......Thank you fiveofakind, What you are describing sounds like an alternator problem. My '92 showed similar symptoms about 8 months back, and thanks to information on in this forum, I suspected the Alternator. Battery would die after getting a full overnight charge, and all dash warning lights would suddenly light up etc. Anyway, took the alternator off and had it tested at an Autozone where they confirmed it was defective. Put in a new one and problem resolved. HTH Mike

Did you figure it out? I looked in my 1990 owners guide and some of those non-working things you mentioned are on different circuits, so its strange. Power locks on a different circuit than the radio. I dont think the radio, power locks had a relay. cvx16cvx, Did you ever find out what was wrong? It sounds like a harness connector is either disconnected or its contacts have been mucked up; what condition is the interior of the vehicle? water damage, rust, etc.? I believe there are major harnesses that route to the back one the left and right inside edges next to the seats. Hope this helps a bit. Mike

killerFatty, Thank you for the tips and the link. The information you posted in your thread s very helpful, as is your success story! I will be ordering the parts very soon and then give it a shot. Thanks again. Mike