smooth1

Yo, Heyoceanfloor, where have you been? I was just thinking of you the other day, and was wondering why we haven't head from ya lately. Yeah, he posts on a few different sites. I usually bump in to him on my.is.com as well. He's got a nice ride going.

Yeah man! I think they look great. Here's a closer shot. These rims, while I didn't put them on a scale, where even lighter then the RS7's where. I would say these rims were under 15 lbs. each easily!!! Performance, and good looks. That's the way I like it!! B)

Hello. :) Let's see here, This pic: is different from this pic: Hmm, can you tell what it is? LOL!!

Yeah, I thought you might agree.... ^_^

Rockies

High ;)

Iv'e seen this done before, but I was thinking that I would paint the hood along the headlight lines. Like this : Only without the hood vents. ( I really don't like those.) I've been looking for that grill. It's a JDM Altezza grill, but it's hard to find. I'm not that crazy about the front bumper they used, but I am going to put a new one on mine as well. I keep find one I think I like, then I keep looking at it for a couple of weeks, then talk myself out of it. Maybe I don't like it as much as I thought when I first saw it. LOL!!! Although, I do have one in mind now. And I have actually liked it for a couple of weeks now!! then once that goes on the car, I was thinking of a cf splitter .....Oh Yeah!!! B)

Kettle corn

100 to 112 mph, Lexkid, is to fast though. It's not about the car, it's about the time you take away from other people to react to you. I mean, there is an unspoken margin I would say that is about 15 mph over the highway speed limits on open, uncongested, traffic flowing rates. And 20 is pushing it to the very outside limit. So, if the speed limit is 70, 85 is the top if everyone is travelling together and the roads aren't clogged with traffic. I know that people go faster and in very congested times. Here are some things to think about: 1) Your travelling at 95 mph down the inside lane, and someone else has a tire blow out. You have cut your time to react in half, and have quadrupled the braking load on your vehicle. 2) Many other people have a very difficult time of judging closing distances, add that to the fact they are using a rear view mirror, and your asking to be cut off at 95 mph. That I am sure only adds to your frustration, and makes it harder to remain under control. How many times has that happened to you, only to slam on the gas as they finally get out of your way? 3) At 100 mph, your vehicle is travelling approx. 150 feet per second. That means that in 2 seconds you have covered a football field. It takes the average car, 8 seconds to go from a complete stop, to make a right hand turn and start accelerating in the direction they intend to go. You would have travelled almost 1200 feet in that time. That's about a hundred feet short of a quarter mile. If you came to an intersection to make a right hand turn, and saw a car a 1/4 mile down the road, would you make the turn or wait until they passed? 4) Your gas mileage must really suck. You can't tell me your getting more than 12-15 miles per gallon at those speeds!!! 5) Any accident at 100 mph,,,,,,,forget it friend. Your talking major surgery and a very low survival rate. 6) If your "floating" up to 112 mph, then your not paying attention and therefore should really not be going that fast. !!!! I know I have a "6th" sense of speed. I know when I'm going aver by 10 mph instantly. Lexkid, I think everyone here agrees, there is speeding, and then there is taking it too far. IMHO, I think you may be taking it a bit to far. I admit to speeding myself. I am no saint by any means. I take some risks sometimes, but in short distances and when the opprotunity allows. But for everyday driving, and back and fourth to work, I drive in that " buffer" that all drivers agree to.

Ok, let's keep something clear, your talking about the track. And, actually if your looking to push alot of hp for drag racing, then manual is a terrible idea. I would go with a 2 speed or 3 speed sludge monsters for that. Auto trannies are way faster in time slips. All the top fuel guys use autos. Also, what exactly did you do to your tranny to get it race ready? Upgrade the valvebody and what else? If your talking about road racing and track times, then yes, the manual transmission is a better way to go as you get more control over the engine power band, and revs going into and exiting corners. BUT, even they are moving over to the direct lock auto transmissions with paddle shift controls. And, for the 10 thousand + dollars your gonna spend on the GETRAG V160, then you might wanna check into that. As far as Titan Motors, they are right down the street from me. Iv'e gone there several times and quite frankly, IMHO, they didn't impress me at all. I know they have alot of experience with the Toyo motors, but most of those guys don't work there anymore, and they are focused on product sales from thier website more than anything else now.

If memory serves me, the 17x7 is 50 mm offfset.

oh, it definatley works. Have you read my signature? ;)

SWO and NC, I agree with both of you. I'm not by any means suggesting otherwise. I was just pointing out the fact that while I may be giving advise to not speed, I am not saying that I myself don't speed. I just do it within the "buffers". I think that safe isn't just about me, it's about everyone else as well, especially families with kids just doing their thing down the road. I think it is very unfair that someone would be so selfish as to put those people in danger just because they want to speed. On the other hand, to be perfectly honest even when I don't really want to be, I have been on of those people from time to time. I don't go racing thru traffic, and blowing by other cars,,,,but I have had some light to light drags with some of the local yahoo's and posers. But I will also say that I will only gop from 0 mph to certian speed area, and then I will pull out. Once the winner is established, there is no need to keep going. So generally by 3rd to 4th gear, the race is over. And if they keep going, I just let them go then. I won't do crazy in town. There is a back road out in the country I know of though that I can tell you that my car can pin the needle with more throttle left to go. The road is between to cow feilds and is slightly down hill, and then rises again. So you can clearly see in all directions for about 3 or 4 miles, and has no intersections, or traffic. And sort of on a side note, can anyone relate to the frustration I feel about the amount of space between cars, at almost any speed??? If you stay 2 seconds behind the person in front of you, it seems that is permission for every jerk to continually cut you off as it's just enouph space for them to squeeze that 40 foot boat they call an SUV in there, if you close that gap, then your tailgaiting the person in front of you, and hence become the jerk, or if you put even more space than is needed so the jerks can come over freely, all you end up doing is making a road hazzard that now 2 cars will try squeezing in front of you. Why can't people realize that the 2 second rule is not your space to move in? The turn signal is almost non usable down here. I love how all the "really expensive cars" come with optional turn signals that they didn't get with thier car. It's very hard sometimes to keep my cool with all the power I have under the hood. But I try to be the bigger person and just let them go. I admit though that I close the gap in front of me when I know they are coming in for the kill. LOL!!

I was going to wait before doing this, but I kept looking at it and thinking "Man, that could look really nice!" So, I had a few spare minutes, which by the way, is really all it took. And so, accomplished this today: New Carbon Works Carbon Fiber Hood is on the car: It's already got the UV protection in it and is clear coated. they didn't do a bad job. It has good depth and a great finish. If you look at the pic, over my shoulder is the roof of the house. The fitment is as good as you can ask for. One side is about 2 mm higher than the fender. But I'm just usung the stock hood latch right now. I have a hood pin kit, which I will install later. That will fix that and then the fitment will be just about dead on. I didn't put the hood pin kit in yet because I'm not sure the one I have is the one I wann use. So I figure I would just wait till I was sure. They also did a great job underneathe the hood as well. All the support network and hinge connections were well done. the hood liner from the stock hood fit right in place on the cf hood as well. So that was a nice bonus. I think it looks great. What about you guys? I think maybe it needs the trunck lid, all four doors, fenders, front bumper and lip kit, all cf. Hmmm, maybe to much cf?

Ok. I found it. Yeah, it's on the older model listing, that's why I couldn't see it at first as it's not in the current lineup. Ok, so you need a face plate and mounting kit, the wiring harness and what else? You will need to find out if the stock amp and speakers run an a 4 ohm load, or a 2 ohm. If it's a 4 ohm, your golden. You will beable to wire in the factory amp and speakers. In that case, no, you don't have to run all new speaker wires and so fourth. All you will need to do is wire the D2 to the factory amp, set up the nav. and antenna, Sirrius if you have XFM if that. then you should be good to go. BUt if it's a 2 ohm system like in the IS 300, then your gonna have more work ahead of you. First, you won't be able to use the factory amp. Second, it may be better to run new wire to the speakers, as splicing in may not be optimal. I can get you the info on the mounting and face plate, wire harness, and so fourth. So let me know.

Well, as much as I enjoy reading your posts, my vote is to continue to allow you to post here anyway. :D

jokester...

complain

You also posted that you got the AVIC D2? are you sure of the model number? IS it Z2 or D3?

Where did you buy your stereo from?

A sincere yet humble "Thank You" dcfish. I know you have been around all these forums for a long time, so coming from you, that's a real compliment. Thanks. I'm just glad to have people like you, and all the others who contribute to the forums around.

wag

Is anything on your car perfect???? Well, as close to it as I can say for sure. I'm still mastering it now. But I will say that what this new AEM is capable of doing is way more than any other I have used in the past. Jemini from another board posted this great write up. I happen to agree strongly: Then I picked up the instruction manual. I was speechless! The manual was in ENGLISH!!!! I almost cried! Not only was it in english but it was very easy to read. Even newbies can understand it. I included a copy of the instuctions in a PDF file below. Looking at the harness, it is more complex. Much more wires than the blue. However, ALL the wires are labeled. So, if you follow the instructions and see the wires, there's no way you can slip. The wiring diagram for our ECU is recommended. Once I got it installed, I opened the software and the screens were similar to that of the blue. The maps are bigger, 26x17 I believe vs the 16x16 on the blue. What I like the most about it are the different readings that I can monitor. The RPM's are displayed on a guage as well as numerical. The boost sensor is a guage also, measures in PSIa. The 3rd guage is known as a UEGO gauge. This is an input that can accept several types of guages. I have my wideband connected. I find this to be the most useful because when i datalog, i can include my AFR readings with te rest. I can see my ARF reading at any RPM level, study it, and make fine tune adjustments. Very cool. I can go on forever about this F/IC but I dont want to droll. All in all, this was well worth the investment, much better than the blue. I can increase AND decrease fuel which was my biggest problem in the blue. I wanna learn every aspects of this F/IC and master it! There is much more to it but I just touched the basics! I hope that when people read this, they would consider this piggyback.