smooth1

HHmm, I allways imagined Bartkat as this pudgy house cat, King of the living room, stalking the hallways, prowling through the house plants ever ready for the attack! LOL!!!

?????? The only thing I have ever heard was to get an LSD. Not get rid of it.

Oh back on subject, yeah the JoeZ, K&N, probably the 2 best choices out there.

well, in a turbo applicaton, stock isn't an option. 2 1/4 piping just doesn't flow enouph. So I went with a 3'' custom exhaust and the Tenabe Medallion Hyper race exhaust with a custom 3'' inlet. Compared to Just IS, Blue Lex, Baadhabit, and GoldIS, they didn't even know I had a turbo on it until they looked for the intercooler and I popped the hood. I have to say, if stock is a 2 on a scale of 1-10, and most aftermarket exhausts are around a 7, I would put mine at a 3 and a half, maaaaaaybe 4. :)

I like quiet. Quiet is good, and sneaky. LOL!!!

invasion

them

the tech. The plugs are just stored in the parts department. They actually "sell" the plugs to the service department. the service tech then gaps them accordingly. And, I just thought of this, you can go to the parts dept. and buy the plugs yourself directly from them. Then open the box and check the gap. it will be .026 -.028. Then walk over the the service dept. and ask what the spec gap is for your car. Tell them your just purchased these plugs from the parts dept. and see if they will gap them for ya. :)

My guess is that a Lexus tech would be installing plugs that have been pre-gapped. I don't think the dealership would want them spending their time gapping plugs. I'm not out to sell the idea of gapping or not. To each thier own. But to clear up this point, Lexus of Orlando and I get our plugs from the exact same distributor. Because I want Denso's. They come out of the box .026 -.028 gaps. The mfgr spec gap is Denso (SK16R-P11) and the gap is .043 or 1.1 mm. And yes, they gap them to spec. at the dealership. To small a gap may be why some of you have 02 sensor issues later, or some other problems. It's kind of like eating bacon, does it cause heart desease??? NOOoooo, but it doesn't help prevent it in anyway, and it could be linked to helping cause the issues later. But then you have some people who eat a pound of bacon a week, and live to be a hundred. So, if your not gapping them , then don't. Simple. And if your doing it yourself, then you should be inspecting the plugs as they come out and you would know what a lean condition plug, vs. a rich condition and what a good plug would look like. So you can address the issue then. The rest of you that pay someone else to change the plugs for you? Well, you'll just have to either check it yourself, which would negate the convienience of having someone else do it for you, or just trust that the person under your hood knows what is best and performs to those standards.

Plymouth Horizon

Smooth, Will you post pic's on the progress ? Pictures??? On this thread?? I don't know man..........well after thinking it over, ok. LOL!!! My camera is on "vacation" in the Keys right now, but as soon as it returns I will be able to post some pics of the progress. :)

Omni

Just another update. I purchased a block from Block Innovations, ( 2JZGE ), with 8.5 to 1 compression JE pistons, Carrillo H beams, ARP wrist pins and head bolts, Ferrara Titanium valve train, +1 mm. and a stage 2 Vvti cam. I went thru it and it's primered and I'm gettting ready to paint the block. I'll post some pictures later. I have a new intake, and fuel system on the way, along with the rest of the bolt ons. So progress is slow, but steady.

burnt

So when you take it to the dealership and they change plugs, do they gap them to mfgr. spec, or listen to what the writing on the box says?

the difference betweeen the platinums and the iridiums is the ability to stand up to wear and tranfer heat from the tip of the plug. The smaller the electrode, the less heat it can hold and the easier to tranfer away from the tip and keep it from melting.

I would gap them. And use Denso's, they are a much better plug than the NGK's. It's the same spec gap for the IS 300 as well. Remember, it's not just about the spark. It's about the flame kernel. The smaller the gap, the smaller the flame kernal it produces. The smaller the flame kernel, the less efficient or I should say the less ability to burn all the air fuel mix in the chamber. Which in most cases just means a little more work for the cats, but still a waste. The only time you should go with a smaller gap is if you increase compression with say a turbo, or supercharger. In that case what happens is the air rushing into the chamber blows out the spark and causes fouling and misfires. But if your running stock, then I would gap them. The NGK's you are running fit any number of cars.And they all have slightly different gap requirements. There is no way they can make one plug to accomidate every application. And by the way, the size of the center electrode has nothing to with the ability to gap them or not. The electrode they refer to is the grounding electrode, the metel L looking piece that you would bend to open or close the gap. Which let me touch on here. We are talking about bending an electrode approx. .020!!! From the out of the box .024(ish) to .044 for spec gapping. Come on, your afraid it's gonna break off cause you moved it that little bit? In all my years of motor swaps, retunes and change outs between races, I think we only ever cracked insulators as the big issue. We never had a ground electrode issue.

inbred :o

hybrid

fist

HORSEPOWER!!

I emailed you the MAF and IAT diagnotics. Hope you get worked out soon.

tighten

align

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