smooth1

Panettiere (Italian ;) )

Oven

I'm aware of the sludge issues with those motors, that's why I suggested just making sure you have a good maintenance schedule. Mburnickas here on the forum would be good to talk to as I think he has about the same year car and model you do, and he takes pretty good care of it. Maybe find out from him what he's doing to stop the sludge issue. The PCV valve is an easy change also. So sure. if your there, why not. It's a 5 dollar part!

:snoooorrrtttt: Turbo!!

relieve

Racquet paddle Tagged Marco Polo

Thanks mikeis300. I really appreciate the feedback. And welcome to the LOC!! I did alot of supercharger research, and while there are some supercharged IS 300's out there that are really nice, just go turbo. 10 psi supercharged is not as much as 10 psi turbocharged, and if you stay with a T60 to a T67, lag is really not an issue at all. Traction and drivetrain limits will be!

Are you removing all three ?

Yo, dat is sooo sik bro!!! lookin tite and feelin rite! Dat bomb done went off!!! I'm still feelin da flash! Dayum!!! :) LOL!! Very nice Bros. So, have you started it and run it yet then?

They may have had a part number change. I would just call the dealer in the morning and get it from them then. But according to what I have it's the correct number.

ping pong

Your welcome, and anytime. Hotties was the one with the heart shape for the O correct? Hmm, well. sorry for the business not working out.

I don't think it's your brake rotors from your description. Brake rotors would do it all the time, and get worse with brake input. It could be your upper ball joints, but you say it's all wheel drive? I don't know man. The fact that you can only feel it at cruising speeds of about 50-65 make me awful suspiciuos.

Racquet paddle

Has it been that long since I've been to Hotties? The one next to Sweet Tomatoes on Orlando Ave. just across I-4? And isn't there one in the Winter Park Village? The part number is 90980-11028 89 isn't bad, you can try Ebay also. I v'e had friends get em there and have no problems. Try and get one from soemone who has an Ebay store. Atleast then you get the warrentee and a place to return it if you do have any issues.

Wow, ambitious huh? I guess it comes down to how mechanically inclined you are. Changing valve cover gaskets is one thing, doing head gaskets and timing belts are another. I don't know your mechanical background, but guessing from your questions, I would leave those to the professionals. You can work yourself into a frenzy real quick with the "while I'm there's" if your not careful. Just remember, if it's not borken, don't fix it!! One of the things you should try and remember is that on older motors, they have had years of wear and they have grooves and fit has been established. You start doing major work and you change those grooves, and old parts don't fit qiute the same again, and you could end up with more "other" problems then you want to have to deal with. While 131K miles isn't a whole lot for these motors, I would just reccomend you following a good maintenance schedule, such as changing your oil to a high mileage synthetic oil to keep the gaskets conditioned, change the tranny, brake, and power steering fluid regularly, and do a good fuel system cleaning. Make sure the spark plugs are fresh and all that. the things I do think you can do while your in there is to check all the hoses. especially vacuume hoses and such. Look for cracked, brittle hoses, and replace those. I would replace your radiator cap also. I know it's an often overlooked easy fix that can bite you big later. But really, just all the simple stuff can really save you alot later. If you need to have the timing belt changed, take it to a Toyota dealership and have them do it. I recently sent someone else on here to them and they quoted waaaaaaaaaaaay less then Lexus to do it. But yes, it is a good idea to change the timing belt. I don't think your in peril right now, but if it's on your mind, then maybe take care of it.

Oh yeah, Lovin the donuts! They opened a couple more Hotties also around town now! Altamonte is not far at all from me, I actually live in Winter Park. We are in the midst of planning a big camping trip to the mountians just above the Blue Ridge PArkway in June. We have a blast! No, this is the sensor on the Y pipe after the catalysts on the header. The one on the intake is the MAF. See that sensor thing sticking out the side of the exhaust in the lower left hand corner? Bank 2 sensor 2 is that one.

You can get the valve cover gaskets easy. I would just order one online. Autoparts warehouse.com and there are many others to choose from. I don't imagine they would be more than 25 or 30 bucks each. You may wanna just get a set and change both while your there. Torque specs on a Camery are 17 lbs. So I would go 20 lbs. as the valve cover is much older now.

BTW, what year is it?

Hhmm, Without having the truck and the unit in front of me this is some stabbing attempts, but, I think you may be having a varible power assist issue? From what you describe, " the very light steering correction" produces a wobble feel in the steering wheel. Toyota, along with most others now, don't just use a hydrolic vain pumps anymore. They also use an electronic motor to assist the hydrolic pressure feeds. It could also very well be a rotors, balancing issues, ball joint, etc. Does the speed of the truck matter? I mean does it "wobble" faster at higher speeds or stay the same? Does it only do it after a certian speed, or all the time? What does it do at very slow speeds? Say like 10 or 15 mph? And you only feel it in the steering wheel? and not the truck itself? So let's do soem elimanating first. Go to the truck and start it, drive it around the block, make sure it's warmed up and loosened up. then bring the truck to a stop, but keep it in gear, and keep one foot one the brake and lightly turn the steering wheel. Put the emergancy brake on tight and maybe put a little pressure on the gas pedal to bring the rpm's up to say 2000 ish, but don't load the truck up either.Remember, it's a speed sensetive assist,so if you feel even a slight wobbling, then it could be the varible assist motor going, and you may need to have that looked at or replaced. If you feel nothing at all, then next step is to drive the truck and turn the steering wheel and hit the brake at the same time. Does this make it worse? Or exaggerate the issue in any way? then it could be your rotors, or brakes. If not then jack the truck up and look for play in the ball joints and bearings. 57K miles on it and all highway though huh? I don't see it being those though. I know it's possible to over torque the bearings and burn them up quick, but sounds like you should still be on factory settings.

It's really hard to it this way. You really need the freeze frame data to determine if this is happening when the car is still cold, during warm up or if after it's fully warmed up and running for awhile. So the first thing is to check the sensor itself by doing a resistance check. If it fails, then you just replace the sensor. If it passes, then you go to the EFI relay. If it's good then you look at the ECM. Look around at the harness and check for a short, or loose connection. Has to be somewhere in there.

You have the v6 correct? Then, no it should be pretty straight forward if it is just the valve cover. You might wanna have a metal putty knife handy to clean the remnants of the old one off really well. Do you have a good torque wrench?

Adios

chow

???? I guess I just got lost somewhere along the way in this thread.