dpellet

Changed mine out a couple years ago and found out there are 2 types, one for towing, the other is not. They likely put a tow package fan clutch on which never seems to stop engaging. When I compared the 2 they were different. One had much bulkier spring assembly. The tow one also impacts fuel economy.

Did those a while back, dealer can replace with oem there are 3 and you can do it for nothin. Cost me about $18.

Mechanic says it is a rear wheel bearing going, is that plausible? Yes, very plausible. Do both rears if one is bad.

Steady pull pressure and a figure 8 motion. It will eventually come out. Mine was old and took a bit to get out as well.. Pliers worked for me but I replaced it with a new one anyway. Regards,

Ok, had to get to the bottom of this issue as it seems many with 1st gen ls400's are running into problems in this area. I started the process when my water pump went out last year, same time I replaced the thermostat and radiator as they were pretty worn but not leaking (yet). I was weeping fluid out of the top of the expansion tank from the level sensor just like many others. Tried to replace the o-ring but that did not solve the problem and weeping continued. I also noticed that there was never any built up pressure in the reservoir when removing the cap and I also suffered from a lack of heat from my blower on occassion and would have to rev motor to 2k+ to get the heat back. I finally gave in and noticed a new res. on ebay, bought it and found out it was a replacement/upgrade to the former stock reservoir new part number is 16482-50010, not only did they put out a new expansion tank but also changed the level sensor new part #16485-50013 and cap which I do not have the part number for but is pressured to 88Kpa. Now, when I bled the system, everything worked properly and I could see the fluid running into the exp. tank which was not happening before. Once the system loses pressure, ie weeping fuid, you cannot bleed it completely. Now when bled, heat is perfect fulltime. Another thing that happens is your coolant sensor is misreading due to airpockets up high and many are likely suffering from a very rich fuel mixture especially first start of the day. I also got as a bonus the stock sticker advising how to bleed system properly!!! Mine had worn off long ago. Have to give credit though, the car never ever overheated even with such low pressure. Hope this helps some.. Cheers,

Do check all vacuum lines. It's very easy to get one pinched or twisted and restrict pressure to the appropriate valve or sensor. I had one of mine twisted, took me forever to trace it.

Whats the weather been like when you get the pop from the brakes? Any chance of cool damp weather, the type that brings lots of frost? I am western canada and while we were in a week of foggy cool weather with tons of frost I noticed my brakes pop as well especially first go of the day. As soon as the frosty conditions were gone the popping stopped. Only did it when the vehicle sat overnight, regular day driving was fine.

Would not be the first time. An example would be a strut bar, adv. to fit 2nd gen models. when fitted to a 91 it worked perfectly changing how it was advertized. So no, will never second guess my decision to ask a question. thanks.

Curious question. Is the 91 ls400 rear window the same as the 95 or did the shape or size change? Looking to get a roof spoiler and found one for a 95. Thanks,

No longer need to add an aftermarket amp if you don't want to. Beat Sonic has an audio adapter that allows you to retain all factory speakers and your amplifier. It works perfectly and man does it sound worlds above the stock units!

Bummer, sorry for your luck! Good news is the bumper is really not that difficult to remove. Take it to a body shop and see what they recommend while it's on the vehicle. If they say they can fix it then perhaps your own removal and delivery and re-installation will save big bucks!! If it requires relacement I was able to get a refurbished bumper w/o stock mounts for $300 CAD. Had it sprayed to match and re-installed with parts from old bumper, total repair cost $320 plus about 4 hours of my time and a $150 to spray. Make sure you re-use the chrome stip (looked like it was spared from damage and there expensive to replace with new.) Once you get at it it really is not to difficult to remove, leave the bumper bar in place and slip cover over and away from it. Hope this helps!

Yes the other functions on the steering wheel work and the radio has never been worked on......where is the clock spring located? in the steering column? *ALSO another problem I forgot to mention is my mileage reading stopped working? what needs to be replaced to get that going, it stopped at 98,xxx miles?* Clockspring is behind the airbag, is a part of the headlight/turn switch assembly but does seperate from it. IF other functions are ok it may not be the issue. Sorry did not mean stereo s/b steering system. I Have had no other troubles with cruise so wish I could be of more help... Odo meter not working, not to sure on that one.

Are the other funtions on your steering wheel working such as your horn? If not it may be the clockspring. If the steero ing system has been worked on (rack) then it may have been broken during the repair.. Mechanics are notorious for forgetting to lock the steering wheel prior to removing the rack and the result is a broken clockspring.. This has happened to another poster recently and this had happened to them as well as myself. Luckily the shop owned upto the error after some knowledgeable pursuasion and replaced it at there expense.

Any follow up report on this? Having just bought a 91 that's demonstrating the same issues, in Chicago, in the winter... ...recon I'll be doing the same thing. Try to have the system bled, this part of the braking system is not usually bled when standard break work is done especially if done by a non-lexus mechanic. I think it's just neglect over the years that allows a little moisture to get into that part of the system and when it's cold the intitial test does not pass due to lower than required pressure. As you mention as soon as temps moderate you will not have that issue. I'm near calgary so when temps dip below -10C I always had this issue. I used to put a hairdryer in the engine compartment right over the trac pump and let it run on high for a couple of minutes and presto, no problems! Since I bled it seems to be ok. Hope this will help!

I had a chance to look at mine, negative connection looked tight but it was not. I need to change that at some point but I took the advice of an earlier post and put a sheet metal screw in the space between the bat. post and clamp and this has solved the problem. Reverse has no dimming and all other symptoms seem to be rectified. Hope this helps!

There are lots of us with late models having the same troubles. I have finally after months think I resolved the issue. In all while I tried to fix this I wound up changing: Radiator, Thermostat (twice, finally went with OEM), water pump(failed). The last thing I did was replace the o-ring in the coolant reservoir and tighten it down. This spot would regularly weep and you could see it get wet around the top. Once the system was sealed and the OEM thermostat installed I burped it and have had no troubles with it for about 6 weeks now, just happens that the last 6 weeks have been pretty cold and heat has not been an issue at idle. Hope this helps!

I have a 91 and am having the same thing happen. This happens when I go into reverse as well. Quick load drop then back to normal, I notice my heater fan slowing down when this occurs as well. This was happening with the old alternator as well so I don't think it's the regulator. Couple of commonalities, I just changed out my Alternator when I did my timing belt and water pump, old one had p/s fluid on it and although it was working I new it was only a matter of time. I have repaired broken wires in the loom before, it's cold out here again so I am going to have a look at them again and also double check the tightness of ground and alternator leads. I to replaced my battery when it died at -40 last weekend. Keep us posted. Starter is a pita, located in the V of the block (under intake system).. If you have to go there, plan for a solid day to day and a half. Lots of things to clean and check while your in there and also a good time to do leaky valve cover gaskets/tune up etc..! With your shifter, could there be some play going on there, not sure but perhaps there is an adjuster of some sort and your geting hung up on something? Not to sure on this one. Cheers!

Just remembered, when I first bought the car both worked just fine. One of the headlights was broken and water got in and blew the headlight bulb. Around the same time I was having the pwr strng system redone and they broke my original clockspring. They replaced but now Im wondering if they swapped out my entire switch assembly?

It's a 91, bulbs are brand new, installed eagle headlights awile ago. Have had this issue for a couple years now. I was thinking of just running a new ground but because he highs work fine I.m wonderin if it may be the switch assembly.

Best of the season to all. Have a little trouble spot I am trying to figure out with my passenger headlamp. On low beam it is weaker than the other buy enough to notice. High beams work fine both sides so I don't think its my ground but I am stumped as to what it may be. Fogs work fine and so do turns, only the low beam... Any electrical specialists out there that can assist? Thanks,

Not to discount procedure above but as soon as you start the motor the accumulator is checked for pressure and at that moment the pump motor is running and the bleeder will pump out at high pressure (make sure you don't let it pop off.) I simply started the car briefly letting the fluid spurt out, tighten bleeder, turn off car, top up master cylinder then do it again until no bubbles are viewed. I'm willing to bet it's the same problem. Mine used to do this all the time in the winter when the temp goes below -20 and high wind chill values & or high humidity. On first start of the day the trac lights would come on and stay on, system down. I would just let the car warm up for 10 minutes and re-start when ready to go and it never failed the trac would work thru system check and lights would go off after that for good for the day. When the weather finally warmed up I did the bleed and no prob's since. Cheers!

Cold weather has everything to do with it as I have a 91 and live just north of Calgary and have the same occasional problem.. I found a quick bleed of the TRAC System should help out as I did it and have not had it re-occur yet. The bleed plug is on the accumulator just under the intake system. Lots of pressure there so make sure your bleed line is secure. Search out bleeding brake system and you should find more details.

Excellent, thanks!

Hi, My passenger side mirror has a little bit of a wobble in it. I tried accessing the screws underneath to tighten it up but the one I need is to close to the door to reach without taking the mirror off. I have searched but cannot find anyone who has recorded how it's taken off. I have the door panel off, screen to tweeter and tweeter are out. I can see one screw inside the corner and have started to loosen it but seems like there is more holding it on but I cannot see any other screws or bolts. Anyone done this that can give me a couple of tips as to how to get it off. Thanks,

You will need the full kit from beatsonic. I am just awaiting my kit from beatsonic, got my headunit from chinavision 2 days after I ordered (really fast shipping). I will post up pics once installed. Your very welcome!