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Sorry, not trying to be funny but just trying to understand the issues. You know, from your latest description, it almost sounds (and I know this does not seem to fit) like a battery that is on the way out. Or an alternator. I have heard of them causing these kinds of symptoms in a Lexus. Just curious, how old is the battery in your car? As Jim mentioned, it would be good to get a reading of the engine codes.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/ignition/sparkplugs.html

New one on me.... //*********************************** Main Entry: crunk Pronunciation: \ˈkrəŋk\ Function: noun Etymology: crunk, word of fluctuating meaning used during the 1990s in lyrics of the rap groups OutKast and Lil Jon & The East Side Boyz Date: 2000 : a style of Southern rap music featuring repetitive chants and rapid dance rhythms //************************************** So, the engine cranks and starts but it barely crunks (idles)?

Your going to be in debt, man. Enjoy your new Lex!

It's a game. Supply and demand. The main thing is not to fall in love with a car even though you may really like it. Let them stew on it for a while then start negotiations. And start low. They say 29k, you think 27k. Offer low 20's as a start. Play hardball in negotiations and be prepared to walk. You can always fight another day. The economy IS tough and they will most likely deal lower than you think. You would probably fall over if you knew how little they actually gave for the car.

Since the ignition is split with each set of 4 cylinders on separate coils, distributors, wires, cam sensors, it would appear to be an ignition issue common to all eight cylinders. Perhaps a bad connector somewhere or ignition switch on the fritz. Can you gently jiggle the ignition switch while running and see if you get any cutting out or erratic engine behaviour? (admittedly, its a long shot).

No. You can get it replaced anywhere or best of all, DIY. You do not need an overpriced Lexus battery.

Assuming that the engine is cranking over robustly, it is not a starter issue. Is it even trying to run? Simple tests would be checking for spark and fuel. Pull a spark plug wire from each bank and check for spark. If no spark, you can start chasing ignition issues. If you have spark, get a can of starter fluid and spray into the air intake while cranking. If it momentarily runs, you have fuel issues. This does not nail down the precise problem but does get things isolated.

First off, cheap tires are a big no-no. I would be thinking of upgrading soon. Have you checked for play in the tie rods ends? Lift the front and grab the tire at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions and wiggle back and forth. It should not have any play. Also, have you checked ball joints for excessive play? Wheel bearings? Does the car track straight at highway speeds or wander somewhat? If all else fails, take it to a good (reputable) alignment shop and have them give it a good looking over. Might cost you a few coins but would be worth it.

You were wise to not force the cam. Having said that, it is normal to feel some resistance when moving the cams to mount the belt. This is due to spring pressure and not valve-piston contact. By now you may be realizing that you should have set the crank timing to 50 ATDC. You can still wiggle the crank pulley back onto the crankshaft key and recheck your crank setting. And probably move it to 50 ATDC carefully. This setting is useful to keep the valves from contacting the pistons if (when) the cams rotate a few degrees during reassembly. If you left the cams in roughly the same position as when you removed the belt, I think you will be OK in carefully moving the crank to 50 degrees After Top Dead Center. However, if you meet any stiff resistance, stop immediately. Take a careful look at the tutorial pictures (both disassembly and reassembly) and notice where my cam pulleys are when the crank is properly set. If yours are close then you are probably ok to proceed. Hopefully, you did not rotate either the cams or crank by more than a half a revolution(180 degrees) without the belt.

I found these web sites very helpful in preparing for the job. http://www.flickr.co...57622883357340/ http://www.shastaane...exus/Page1.html http://www.lextreme.com/timing2.html http://www.lexls.com...timingbelt.html Amazing how little the search option is used. First couple of links seem to be broken curiousB. Jr., take a look at this thread -> http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=61372&st=0&p=394313&hl=timing%20belt&fromsearch=1entry394313

Service also calls for coolant change, brake fluid flush, differential fluid change and cabin filter. Save your money on the fuel cleaner and octane booster. It is not needed. Just use premium gas. When was the timing belt last changed?

What we have here is a failure to communicate. Please explain what you mean by "if I take wires on the left side(driver side) the wires are not firing". Be explicit.

Did you happen to check for any engine codes?

So curiousB, just wondering if you were like me... the most nerve racking part of the whole job was turning the ignition key for the first time after assembly. :(

The '01 might fit an '00 but will be smaller and won't look right. I believe the '98-00 are all the same.

Hello there Robert. I had to read your post several times. So, you disconnect the R side and it runs the same(rough I assume). Sounds like the L side is working but the R is not. Perhaps the R coil or sensor is bad or disconnected? Do you get any codes? And what year/mileage is your LS?

Yes, and don't use the torque wrench for this method. Use a straight, non-ratcheting wrench.

Good to hear you were successful. Did you happen to replace any seals (crank or cam) or did they look good?

The LS430 does not have strut rods like on the 98-00. In fact the suspension is quite a change from previous models. It sounds like your noise is (was) the link on the end of the sway bar.

Hmmm, wonder what would happen if you disconnected the battery for an hour or so, reconnected the battery, then tried the key again?

Looks/sounds like a good deal to me. Low mileage, well cared for. Good price, IMO. Congrats. You are going to love it.

I just paid $20 for a full strength gallon at my local Lex dealer. Oh wait, are you in Canada? That might s'plain it. B) Now, you could try single-barrel Jack. $28 a fifth.

The water pump itself (Toyota OEM) should come with a nice gasket, no RTV required. What you see in the tutorial is the RTV on the water inlet housing. I used Permatex Sensor-Safe Ultra Grey, Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone gasket maker, Item #82194. Not that you need that particular one. And with RTV, you put it on, let it set for 5 minutes then put the housing onto the car with the bolts just finger tight. Let the RTV setup for another hour BEFORE torquing. That way you dont "squirt" the RTV out before it has a chance to semi-harden. See my writeup on the '98 for reassembly ->

The crank bolt is a right-hand thread...righty-tighty just as you expect. That nylon tie is rather clever though I think you could get by with it on just one side. After the belt is on and before the tensioner is working, there is not enough slop to let the belt slip. At least it did not seem so to me. On the impact gun, yes, you are right to be concerned. It must be a somewhat stubby type. Make a rough measure before buying one. Though you really do not need one unless...hey, you like new toys don't you? ;) Me too.