landar

Depends upon the severity of the leak. Personally, I would use a new gasket because external sealers usually only hold temporarily(if at all) due to heat and vibration.

There are some questions I have. Are you applying the brakes when making the full left turn? Or does it pulse regardless? Does it do the same thing on a full right turn? Could be the PS pump. A full lock puts a lot of "strain" (pressure builds) on the pump and it could be pulsating. I also wonder when you might have last had an alignment. Perhaps the front-end is out of alignment and the tires are scrubbing in the full turn. Many times an alignment shop will give you a free assessment.

I have noticed that the OAT on my '02 always seems to jump by 2 degrees F when it does change. So, I pull out of a warm(er) garage and the readout is 35. As I proceed on my way, the readout goes down due to the frigid winter temps...35, 33, 31, 29, 27, 25, 23. What?? Doesn't it like even numbers? Same thing on the way back up. Now, I would think that as the temp sensor cooled it might hit consecutive numbers, but no. I mean, I can see a long sampling period to filter(average) out the changes but this is "redikerus". If you have an OAT on your LS can you do a check next time out and report back your readout results/behaviour? Tnx

How to resolve? Take your car to a competent tire shop. Obviously, the Toyota dealer is not all that competent in tires. Losing 5-10 lbs/month is pretty significant and should be rather easy and quick for an experienced tire shop to locate the leak.

again, probably a broken spring within the latch assembly itself. BTW, you can edit each of your postings so no need to repost a correction. Just click on the "Edit" button in your post, make the correction(s) and "Save Changes".

Possibly. It might be repairable especially if a spring is broken. I am not familiar enough to really say. Being a 94 with perhaps lots of use over the years, you might want to just order a new assembly. Check also for a stuck actuator. Is it a cable or electro-mechanical?

I think your original comment about not feeling any "spring" action is on the right track. It could be that the spring within the latch mechanism is broken. Having said that, if the actuator were to be constantly active(stuck for some reason), trying to unlatch the trunk, it would produce the same effect. In any case, you are looking at removing the latch itself to have a look and replacing/repairing the faulty part.

What exactly are you trying to accomplish?

Doesn't the Ultra package include the problematic air suspension? Costs big buck$ to get it fixed if it goes bad. Plano is in your neighborhood, isn't it Billy?

Best wishes, Billy You will do fine, I am sure. (though you will get ZERO sympathy from me on your "cold" weather in Carrollton, TX ).

Just for the sake of tying a bow on this thread, here is a link to the UK thread -> http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=70963 I was guessing that the car had been jumped with cables reversed and the main fuse had blown. Good call, Steve.

A sublet probably means sublease, which is when someone assumes the lease of anothers vehicle (usually because the first lessee could not afford the payments). BTW, for some reason, your avatar makes your posts extremely difficult to read.

Well I can assure you that there is no magic ghost sucking the heat from your engine. Thermodynamics is the same for your engine block as it is for your dad's LS. Now, if you take your car to the dealer, there IS a magic ghost that will suck the money from your wallet. But that's a different subject. Your test of 40 miles on the interstate is probably too short to get an accurate reading. I suspect ditto for your city test. But yes, your car will get much worse mileage when cold than when hot.

72 months(6 years)/90k miles.

Thanks steve. BTW, I hate simultaneous dual posts! jk'ing (sort of) :whistles: <_<

I talked to a Lexus mechanic about this at the local dealer when I bought my 98 LS a few years back. He was not at all concerned about the "time" element of the schedule, just the mileage. He said they have never had an LS in there with a broken belt. I am not saying the belt can not break, its just unlikely due to age alone. In truth, I would be more concerned about a water pump seizing up and shredding the belt. If you or a previous owner have faithfully changed the coolant with the correct type every few years, the pump should be fine. If not, or the coolant fluids were mixed with different brands over the years, you could be in danger of a failing pump. With this said, here is a go at your questions: Should you be worried? Maybe worried is too strong a term. Concerned perhaps? Yes. You already are, else you would not have posted. Is there a way to check the belt? Not really. It may "look" fine but be ready to break. On the other hand, it would not hurt to have a look. If it is all cracked, shredded edges and dry-looking, you park the car, pronto. How much is she worth? Really hard to say w/o more detailed info. Prices fluctuate from region to region. LS's in my area do not sell well, hence lower prices. A 97 "gem" (your idea of a gem may not be someone else's idea of a gem), in excellent condition with 80k miles would be worth about $5k in the states. Deduct for the timing belt coming due if you wish. Do not know about your area but it's basically "caveat emptor" here. If you want to sell the car in the Spring, I would suggest listing it very soon. It may take a while to find the right buyer.

So, I am intrigued by this system, Mike. If it initially runs on petrol and switches over to gas when warmed, how long does a tank of petrol last for you? I would be somewhat concerned that the petrol could turn putrid before all used. In any case, would not a "bad" tank of petrol take a long time to get used up? Besides coils, you might also consider spark plugs. I would imagine the petrol is not as easily ignited as the gas as CuriousB mentioned. Also, possibly clogged injector(s)?

Yep, that would be my guess too, coolant reservoir tank pulling air into the system when cooling down and causing noise. Either that or...say, you didnt run into a gaggle of Geese did you? :o :) Replace the reservoir cap. You may also have a leaking hose and/or cracked reservoir tank.

yotoy, I am guessing as well, but I think medo is saying a piece of the gasket was torn and allowed coolant to bypass the TS. I honestly cant see a torn gasket allowing THAT much coolant to bypass... but maybe, depending upon the severity of the damage. Did you try blocking the radiator and see if the engine warmed any quicker? You really just need to block the front grill in order to keep air from flowing through the radiator. A simple "bra" over the front grill will do. Again, this is just to verify what is causing the slow warming. If blocking the air flow helps, it points to a bad TS or gasket. If it makes no difference, then there may be a sensor that is misbehaving. I know it can seem frustrating but slow engine warming "should" be relatively easy to pinpoint. Remain meticulous in all the testing and you will soon have it nailed. Any heating time measurements for us to digest yet?

My language is not English .. When I run the air-conditioning .. I get only cold air .. Even when the press raise the temperature? Can you explain how the air conditioning turned up for the purpose of heating .. And not for the purpose of cooling? Is there a particular button transferred from the cooling to heating? Press the "Auto" button to get the HVAC system into automatic mode. Then select your desired cabin temperature with the up/down button. The AC (air conditioning) compressor will come on in Defrost mode(to dehumidify the air) even when calling for heat. But normally, you do not want the AC turned on when you desire heat. The Auto mode will select the proper system components to give you the desired temperature.

Yep, its critical. Looks like you have an interference-fit engine. Change every 90k miles or 6 years. see this thread in the GS section -> http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=60180&st=0&p=387613&hl=interference&fromsearch=1entry387613

Just tried my LS430. Both the 'boot' and gas filler door open with the engine running.

Yes, the VSC does seem different in the LS430 vs the LS400. The 430 seems to straighten me out more quickly than the 400 did and overall has a more "refined" feel. However, I don't think I ever encountered a situation quite like this in my LS400. But I did not like this shutdown one bit. I had my foot into it so that I could accelerate, not pedal to the metal, but aggressive. Under dry conditions, I would have easily pulled ahead as I listened to that sweet V8 wind up. I got to wondering this evening if maybe it was not the VSC but traction control that pulled the rug out from under me? Well, in any case, I need to "play" around with it some more and see how she behaves (in an empty parking lot). That may also help me to find some more Chutzpah.

Going to work this morning, I made my usual right turn on red from a side road onto a main 4-lane highway. Traffic was coming but seemed far enough away that there was no danger as long as I "stepped" on it a little (my usual style). There was a little bit of snow on the side road that the plows had missed. I pushed the pedal down to get me ahead of the oncoming pack and the rear end swung out a little as I hit a bit of snow. Well, the VSC kicked in and shut me down right on the spot! :o No acceleration even though I was now through the snow. I stayed over to the right and watched as the lead cars came around on my left. Whew. I have to get used to this VSC! I mean it shut me down for a good long moment...throttled the engine back to an idle for what seemed like an eternity though it was probably only in the 2-3 second range. Lesson learned is that I either turn off the VSC (which I do not want to do), or be more aware of what it may do to me as a result of slippery roads. Probably do the latter.

I forgot the earlier versions may not have had the economy readout. The cardboard is an old "trick" and still used some today("big rig trucks") in very cold sections of the country to restrict air flow through the radiator and allowing an engine to warm more quickly. You have the right idea. It goes directly in front of the radiator...well not sure how much the fans would get in the way. You could potentially just disconnect the fans so they did not start up and see if that makes any difference. But just for a little test drive. Remember to reconnect them afterwards if you decide to try it. You would still have the main clutch fan possibly pulling air through the radiator, hence the need for some restriction for the test.