landar

We probably will never know for sure. This is the typical 'dead end' to some threads. Posters come and go. Closure sure would be nice but not much we can do except make sure that our threads show resolution.

Micah, It may take a combination of running some penetrating oil along the bolt shaft into the bushing, let it soak overnight, hitting both sides of the bolt with a torch until it is "toasty", then smacking the threaded side hard with a small sledge. Even hit the bolt vertically on both sides(with a punch) to setup shock waves to loosen the hold. Should do the trick. On the other hand, if you have experienced, professional mechanics on the job and they are stumped, it is apparently a very tough situation. Guess they are taking the "sawzall" route. Hard to believe it would come down to that but will give them the benefit of the doubt.

Welcome. What year is your LS? And what exactly would you say is wrong with the cluster? Depending upon the year, there is a tutorial to remove the cluster from the dash -> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/electrical/instrumentcluster.html another to get inside the cluster -> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/electrical/clusterdisassembly.html So, depending upon what is wrong, you may be able to make some repairs yourself.

Whaaaat? Did he soak 'em in PBblaster or use a torch to heat them up first? Can't imagine them being that corroded down south.

By "not open", do you mean it will not unlock with the remote? Repeatable?

I agree with Steve about the wiring...don't try to modify the original, it might only lead to more issues. Couple of additional things to ponder. If the system charges perfectly as stated, then the indicator must be errant. Correct? Or is it? There is a good possibility that you are teetering on the edge of a proper charge or that the charging intermittently quits and then picks back up. I tend to believe the indicator is showing this sort of intermittent problem. It is not uncommon for an aftermarket unit to start going bad after a few months. Have you recently checked for a power steering pump leak? Also, the system usually relies heavily on the alternator mounts for a ground. Did you clean the mounts when installing the new alternator? Ground strap from engine to chassis still in place? Finally, check for AC on the system by using a voltmeter in the "AC" position. Should not be > 100mv. Else a diode(s) in the alternator may be faulty.

Bob, the first thing to rule out in a distortion situation is the speakers. With heat, moisture and age, the cone material can degrade significantly. You might try to further troubleshoot by selecting the balance to the rear/right/left and front/right/left, tremble/bass, hi/lo volume, etc....all combinations thereof. It is very common to have low frequency distortion(bass) in the rear speakers. It might be the stereo amp itself but first rule out the speakers and bad connection(s).

Actually no, not classic starter failure symptoms. If it were the starter solenoid, you would get a single 'click'. Assuming you get no click at all, I would target the ignition switch first and then the starter relay. No real reason to suspect the anti-theft system yet.

Do you mean fuel injectors or ignition coil when you refer to "bank"? 26 - Air-fuel ratio rich malfunction.

If the leak is severe enough to have gotten oil on the timing belt itself, the belt should also be replaced. You would not notice it at first but over time, contaminants can degrade the belt material and cause premature failure.

This from a wiki on oxygen sensors: "The sensor does not actually measure oxygen concentration, but rather the amount of oxygen needed to completely oxidize any remaining combustibles in the exhaust gas. Rich mixture causes an oxygen demand. This demand causes a voltage to build up, due to transportation of oxygen ions through the sensor layer. Lean mixture causes low voltage, since there is an oxygen excess." Interesting read -> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor

Ok Micah. Yes, if it is not causing problems now, do not worry about it any further. If it is something more serious, it will be letting you know in the near future. ;) I have never experienced solenoid contacts that start to work then break connection. With the high inrush current, the copper puddles a little and keeps the contacts going. I have had the contacts weld up on me and the starter just keeps cranking even with the key removed. Now thats unnerving!

If the crank and cam pulleys line up beautifully, as per your first post, then I would not think that the belt jumped. If it did jump, I would expect it to remain in its new position. There should be a lot of tension on the belt.(you did remember to pull the tensioner pin, right?). Still, the fact that you now have no compression is both disturbing and puzzling. IF valves did get bent, I would think you would have a little compression on several cylinders, even if ever so slight. Are you sure the compression gauge works correctly? You might want to use an air compressor and try pressurizing several cylinders after you have confirmed that the valves are (should be) closed.

The fan bracket contains a pulley that the fan clutch and fan are mounted on. I think you could get by without draining the radiator and removing if you are careful and are used to working in tighter spaces. Concentrate on removing the fan and clutch from the bracket pulley. You may have to unbolt the fan shroud along with the fan and slide them up/out as one. After that, you should be able to get at the fan bracket bolts(4). Wiggle out the old and put in the new.

Does it abruptly stop cranking with complete silence or is there a clicking sound associated with the termination of cranking?

Unless your engine has severe blow-by, you will gain no goodness from this change. Besides, that it what Seafoam is for. You want to "wreck" that great smokey experience? Up until the early 1960's, a pipe called a "road draft tube" was used on all cars just as you are thinking. It put oil on the road along with the unburned hydrocarbons. Of course, engines did not fit as tight (machining-wise) back then so there was a LOT of blow-by going on compared to modern engines. Interesting read here -> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase_ventilation_system

Pretty neat. Thanks curiousB.

Have a look at these threads -> http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=66733&st=0&p=420719&hl="wheel%20bearing"&fromsearch=1entry420719 -> http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=54973&st=0&p=353347&hl="wheel%20bearing"&fromsearch=1entry353347

With 344k miles, she is tired. I would be too. Perhaps a leaking head gasket as curious mentions. Other "typical" (although not for a Lexus) sources for oil leaking into the coolant are cracked block/head or leaky intake manifold gasket. There is also a slight chance that transmission fluid is getting into the coolant via the radiator exchange. But slight. Now, is there any sign of coolant in the oil, either the engine oil or transmission? Pull the dispsticks (or drain) and check. Could be a hint there.

If you know how to use a voltmeter it is time to go on a hunt for the missing "link". It would be good to also have a wiring diagram of your car. With so much power out, it should not be hard to trace it down. However, if you are unfamiliar/unsure with car wiring and tracing circuitry, you might need to enlist some local help. I would get into the main fuse box and start checking for voltage a key locations. I really think that "spark" you mentioned earlier took something out(wire, fuse).

Just a reminder. You can't go by "looks" on the fusible link or other wiring. You have to use an ohmmeter, voltmeter or test light. I would also check your ground connections. Did you remember to reconnect the ground wire on the alternator?

And if you put gauges on the high and low side of the system, what kind of readings do you get? Perhaps the evaporator nozzle is plugged? Gauge readings may reveal what is going on.

There is a 120 Amp main fusible link that feeds your car with power. Sounds like that wire did not get reconnected or the link is blown. You didn't, by chance, happen to see some sparks fly when you were replacing the alternator? If you left the battery in place, it would be easy to short (to ground) the + terminal going to the alternator and take out the main fuse.

My guess (take it for that) is the window switch. A high resistance spot on the contacts will supply some current to the motor...enough to cause it to attempt movement but not enough to get the motor really going. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. Characteristic of worn or dirty switch contacts.

First check the oil pan bolts for tightness. A little snugging may be all that is needed depending upon the severity of the leak. Now, a more curious question...You put a 99 VVTi engine in a 97 LS? Thats a different motor, electronics-wise. Did you change the ECU and other related electronics? What happened to the original 97 motor?