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Then I take it you wear a fairly heavy long-sleeved jacket when you drive your Lexus as the owners manual states that switching to normal airflow results in cooler airflow than via the footwell. My measurements indicate "normal" airflow temperatures as much as 20F cooler than in heating mode. And don't forget that with the A/C in operation the CHILL factor of that airflow will sometimes be elevated due to the dehumidification of the incoming airflow. If I'm going to drive any distance then my perferred mode of dress is tenny-runners, blue jeans and a short sleeve mesh football jersey over a cotton undershirt. So to remain comfortable I probably NEED more heating "upstairs" than a "fully" clothed driver.

Did you disconnect the battery in order to reset/erase the old parameters pertaining to the oxygen sensor you removed? In any case it sounds as if the fuel pump does now have enough pumping capacity....

The gas cap problem results in a CEL and that, by default, results in an illuminated VSC/TC icon. There are only two sensors that are unique to VSC, the yaw sensor and the stearing wheel rotational position sensor. So yes, you probably need a dealer's help.

Maybe I'm missing something here. . . . . The objective is to NOT spin the tires, while driving in snow. Might just be me though. I am well over 50 and don't like to tear up my vehicles. For those that do now know, lack the experience of knowing how to "feather" the throttle in aderse conditions, or simply need to use wheelspin, say rocking the car back and forth to get unstuck, Toyota is working on a new feature, already installed in the Tundra as I understand. Basically it will be, is, a two mode TC, Traction Control, system. Apparently you will be able to turn off the initial TC mode in favor of A-LSD, Automatic- Limited Slip Differential. A-LSD will allow some minor level of wheelspin in order to best simulate an actual mechanical LSD. With the adverse safety issues involved it is not clear that A-LSD will ever be implemented for FWD or F/AWD TC systems. But to get back to the original question... Provided you don't over do it, abuse the car, turning off the TC and then using a bit of wheelspin to get unstuck is exactly the purpose of that ability.

If your rear brake lights are not FULLY functional cruise control is disabled. The system "measures" the electrical current flow in two circuits, the high mount brake light, and the standard brake light parallel "string" and if it isn't up to a predetermined level you get the failure icon and the cruise control is disabled.

It switches to circulated air if the temp has reached its setpoint. No c-best settings have been changed. As I said before I leave it on "AUTO" and "A/C", I don't switch it to anything it all. "...switches to circulated air..." Do you mean recirculating airflow as opposed to fresh.....? Or did you mean to say that it switches to dash outlet airflow....?? NOT implying YOU switch, switched, anything, just trying to clarify if the dealer preset some of the c-best option given your area, climate, of operation.

Does your climate control automatically switch into "cooling" mode once the cabin temperature almost reaches the setpoint? Or has the dealer set the system otherwise using the c-best option? Or do you simply switch it back into heating, footwell airflow, yourself? I have found that on a COLD day, especially when the surrounding landscape has already chilled and the radiant heat equation is well into the negative, the automatic switch into cooling mode has a definite chilling effect on my face, neck and entire upper body. So I have ALWAYS over-ridden the system out of the cooling mode on cool or cold days. I recently found that it helps even more to have it in combined mode wherein I get some level, however minor, of warm airflow to the upper/forward portions of the cabin to help combat the adverse radiant effects. And given the extreme propensity of these Denso climate control designs to fog over the interior surface of the windshield, especially suddenly and unexpectedly on/in certain "upset"(***) or climatic conditions, it doesn't hurt at all to keep that windshield interior surface WARMED as far above dewpoint as is possible. ***Introducing a higher moisture load into the cabin, say sweaty/wet snow skiiers or even picking up someone after work that has stood in the rain briefly. Or maybe even having the A/C go "off-line" due to declining OAT or having switched it off manually wherein the previously accumulated condensate will now be free(d) to enter the cabin and maybe raise the cabin Rh significantly. When you first start the vehicle the climate control system is well prepared, and will provide a significant level of HEAT, to the windshield in defrost/defog/demist mode, but once the cabin temperature rises to the point wherein it will normally switch into cooling mode there is no way to provide HEATED airflow to the windshield absent simultaneously RADICALLY turning ip the temperature setpoint. Once the cabin is warmed to within a few degrees of your setpoint the system relies EXCLUSIVELY on the A/C's ability to dehumidify the incoming FRESH airflow. That's why the latest firmware revision ('08 MY) involves automatically switching the system into HEATING mode once OAT declines below about 35F and the A/C compressor is DISABLED. Not that the A/C wasn't already useless for this purpose to begin with as result of the Rh of the outside atmosphere.

Regular oil change, replace wipers, flush transmission, flush brake fluids, check hoses etc -- I have asked for a complete listing to be faxed to me. Once I get it i will post it here. Thanks everyone for replying. My brother's '91 full spec LS400, 125,000 miles, has NEVER seen the inside of the Ridgeway Lexus shop nor the previous one, and never will. RIP-OFF ARTISTS... Not unlike EVERY Lexus service shop. No need to post THEIR schedule, most of us stick to the factory recommendations.

Back when the RX330 first came out I was seriously considering trading up so I purchased the Lexus shop/repair manuals. What I discovered was that while the advertising information indicated that the RX330 still used the viscous clutch across the center diff'l to "stiffen up" the otherwise flaccid coupling to the rear driveline in actually it did not, there was no VC in the RX330 series. When I contacted Lexus about the "disconnect" between marketing and engineering the information at Lexus .com was corrected. Now fast forward to the introduction of the RX350 series. The Lexus.com information for the RX350 indicated that the VC was back in use on the RX350, it still does today. I recently had reason to rejoin the techinfo.toyota.com information site and on something of a whim looked up the matter of the VC in use for the RX350. The '08 Lexus RX350 shop/repair manuals indicate there is NO VC in use for the '07 or '08 model year RX350. I contacted Lexus via the "chat" procedure and at the moment they tell me that they are looking into the matter. For those of you who have purchased an AWD RX350 thinking you had a more satisfactory F/AWD system than simple TC (Traction Control) "limited slip" (moderate braking of the slipping [front] wheels accompanied by simultaneous engine dethrottling) you may very well have a legitimate claim against Lexus for false advertising. I'll post when (or IF) Lexus gets back to me with an answer.

If you set the temperature to max heat or max cooling the system will ignore the sensors and simply drive the servomotors into the proper position. If that works then you have a failed or failing sensor.

During wintertime driving the very BEST way to operate a Toyota or Lexus climate control system is to turn the A/C compressor off(***), totally and completely, switch the airflow mode to footwell and windshield combined air flow and then set, maintain, your temperature setpoint to your own personal comfort level, or that of your passenger(s). Saturday morning I drove home, Portland to Seattle eastside, ~200 miles, temperature hovering around 34-36, overcast and light snow flurries the full way. The significant level of warm airflow diverted to the windshield surface helped to keep mine and my wife's upper body warm. Otherwise NipponDenso, Denso US' unique dual layer airflow would have left our upper body subject only to the radiant cooling effects of the surrounding landscape amd more likely than not an encounter, an episode, with sudden and unexpected windshield fogging. *** In earlier times I resorted to unplugging the a/c clutch circuit. In my '92 LS400 I added a "winter mode" operational switch so the OAT sensor always indicated sub-freezing conditions during the winter months. Lexus disables the A/C entirely if the OAT is below ~35F. My '01 AWD RX300 has two c-best optional settings that address this issue. one of those allows you to disable the A/C indefinitely by simply switching it off manually one time. The second unlinks the A/C from operating automatically (with no A/C "on" indication) in defrost/defog/demist mode. Later Lexus model have additional C-best options, one that prevents the system from automatically switching into cooling mode when the cabin temperature rises to within a few degrees of your temperature setpoint. A bit discomforting , that. I notice that '08 models automatically switch to heating, footwell airflow with slight flow to the windshield, once OAT declines to the point of the A/C being disabled. Previous models are prone, HIGHLY prone, to instances of sudden windshield fogging when the A/C is automatically disabled as the OAT declines below ~35F. '90 LS400 to '08 models, 18 years and they still haven't gotten it "right". That's what they meant by... "Relentless Pursuit of Perfection" Relentless = NEVER getting to your goal(s). Do you suppose that's why they changed it too....??: "Passionate Pursuit of Perfection"

Look at the "recommeded" maintenance schedule in your owners manual. Unless you use the car as a taxi my guess would be an oil/filter change, engine and pollen air filter, under $50, will suffice.

The failures seem to involve, predominantly, the '99 RXes, and yes, mostly the AWD Models. There have been, seemingly, an inordinately high level of '00 models involved. It has been my guess that in the process of "porting", "beefing up, the Camry transaxle to/for the much heavier RX it was discovered that it too prone to overheating. One of the common ways to address that issue is to design in more ATF cooling capacity provided the heating effect isn't localized to some internal component. In this case it appears that the heating was localized to the gear type ATF pump and so the fixed displacement pumping capacity of this pump was significantly reduced. While this also had the added advantage of improving FE to a not insignificant level, the disadvantage was that the shift pattern/schedule had to be modified to eliminate some of the standard, legacy, gear changes that we all have come to expect. Basically the transaxles will now not only not downshift into 1st gear until you come to a full and complete stop, they actually upshift during 10-0 MPH coastdowns when coming to a stop....OR NOT. That gives the driver the "seat of the pants" feeling of being bumped from behind as the transaxle upshifts at ~7MPH and the RX "surges" forward due to the sudden unexpected release of engine compression braking. The same thing happens during closed throttle coastdowns at 40-30 MPH but in this case drivers seem to refer to the feeling as a "slingshot effect". Toyota soon discovered the flaw in the design when the '99 models, after 70-80,000 miles started requiring new transaxles. It appears that the first reaction, QUICK fix, was as one would expect, bore the gear type ATF pump back out to the original pumping capacity, or at least nearby. Of course that REQUIRED more cooling capacity. So you might find it hard, or maybe impossible, to locate an '01 -'03 RX absent the (supposedly optional) towing parkage which included the extra ATF cooling radiator/heat exchanger. The change may have been made mid-production run of the '00 MY. In any case even with the extra cooling capacity the '01-03 RXes seem to have a problem with BURNED ATF in as little as 40,000 miles so the factory has revised the ATF drain/refill/flush schedule from infinity to every 15,000 miles. Going back to an earlier issue, it appeared that reducing the ATF pumping capacity had been a good idea as there was a significant improvement in FE as a result. So Toyota began to adopt this design aspect across the board, all FWD and F/AWD vehicles. My guess is that since there is all the space one needs for a ROBUST RWD or R/AWD transmission there was no reason for migrating this design aspect to the RWD. On the other hand seeing as how the space was available the RWD & R/AWD models may have gone directly to a variable displacement ATF pump, just as Ford has now done with the new FWD Edge. But a more permanent solution, other than the '01-03 RX "compromise" solution which clearly led to the ATF overheating problems, had to be found. And that led to the adoption of DBW, e-throttling. With DBW the engine could be prevented from developing a high level of torque, basically nothing above idle, until the downsized ATF pump could provide enough flow/pressure to fully and firmly seat the newly engaged transaxle clutches. Adopted, apparently (very likely under some duress), with little or NO real world testing. No testing for conditions that might require, result, in a bit of throttle "dithering" by the driver. Say in an acceleration lane, accelerating, entering a freeway, and the driver lifts the throttle as s/he glances over their left shoulder, sees an upcoming "spot" and then re-applies throttle pressure. Initially accelerating = lower gear ratio/.... throttle lift = UPSHIFT/... re-apply throttle = downshift....!! Two transaxle shifts within mere seconds, or less, the latter of those with the engine idling.... The second one, for the acceleration level YOU feel you now need (for safe entry into the FAST(ER) moving oncoming traffic), will have to wait, 1-2 seconds and only then will the engine torque, via DBW, be allowed to begin rising. Reports of this 1-2 second delay/hesitation seem to be continuing into the '08 model year.

Another thing that might make that sound is a servomotor's resistive positional feedback assembly, most likely a part of the HVAC, in the process of failing.

I don't think our '95 LS400 has an OAT display...... If your OAT sensor were completely open, say missing, the result would be that the climate control system would act, react, as if it were DAMN cold outside all the time. Were it shorted the climate control would react as if Los Wages was suddenly moved to Death Valley. The simplest way I know to test if the sensor is working correctly is to put it in an ice bucket and watch the A/C compressor shut down, the A/C indicator on the instrument panel will extinguish, when the sensor gets down to about 35F.

"..knock sensor is bad..." That could mean it "triggers" too quickly or it could mean it never triggers at all. In either case a knock sensor failure code would undoubtedly cause the engine/transaxle ECU to NEVER shift into OD. The OD gear ratio is designed to operate the engine at the optimum RPM for conserving fuel. Therefore it would not be at all unusual at specific road speeds for the engine to be operating right on the "cusp" of being in the range of lugging, or knocking due to lugging the engine. The firmware is designed to QUICKLY downshift out of OD the instant engine knock due to lugging is detected. So it would make sense that a failing, failed knock sensor would result in non-use of OD. Obviously a "tired", worn out engine would be much more likely to knock due to lugging at a higher RPM than a brand new engine thus the question of mileage.

Almost all modern day cars REQUIRE a lockup clutch since the OD ratio is truly an OD ratio, generally something between 1:1.3 or nowadays 1:1.7. Since the transmission output is turning FASTER than the engine the torque converter would be completely non-functional, making the OD ratio also non-functional. So what is most likely happening when you press the brake pedal lightly is the transmission is not only unlocking the torque converter lockup clutch it is also downshifting into 3rd gear. The lockup clutch is NEVER in the "circuit" when you are calling for acceleration so that would have nothing to do with your "up to speed" symptoms. Odo mileage...please... With enough miles accrued it is quite possible the lock clutch is failing and that would undoubtedly result in a Jerking motion as it grabs and slips, grabs and slips...etc. But it would only do that in "cruise" mode, traveling along at relatively constant speed on a reasonably level roadbed. For the '93 LS that's basically the only time the OD clutch is locked and you are actually in an OD gear ratio. Oh yes, before I forget, the "direct" answer to your question... Use the button on the shifter to disable OD.

My '01 AWD RX300 remains shod year 'round with nice and quiet and comfortably riding summer use Bridgestone Turanzas. I have a set of tire chains on board all year around for the rear and add the second set for the front before thanksgiving each year in preparation for being inadvertently "caught out" in adverse weather. MY RX doesn't leave its nice and warm garage in KNOWN adverse conditions, our '94 AWD Ford Aerostar has that duty.

I think the self-adusting/leveling is disabled above ~15-20 MPH. When I first converted my '01 to bi-xenon (DIY) I tried modifying the sensor signal from the rear axle but found it wouldn't work above ~20MPH.

Actual code(s) are..??

Due to constant exposure to battery out-gassing, corrosive out-gassing, the battery connections are constantly being corroded. Your having to "tap" the post is a definitive indication of this corrosion. Remove the battery terminals, clean and burnish the battery posts and the inside of the connections. Actually it's not altogether a bad idea to follow that procedure at least once a year, usually in the early spring. Once the corrosion gets so bad that "tapping" is needed it will often move quickly to the point wherein the battery cannot be quickly or fully charged due to the resistance to current flow in those connections.

While not truly the case, think of the transaxle and diff'l as having separate sumps, but connected above the high point of the transaxle sump. Thus the diff' must be drained separately but is refilled via the transaxle "fill".

SW03ES, the car IS two weeks old to me. The manager suggested it WAS a coincidence the doorlocks malfunctioned just there and it had nothing to do with the key job. I disagree! Something caused that fuse to BLOW! They are professionals and at $400+ for a key they should make sure all systems are a go after working on a computer?electrical ?...system. Is that not a reasonable expectation??? The representative of the dealer.the service manager, basically insinuated that we....the customers....were dishonest and bringing our malfunctioning vehicles in for free repairs! That really IRKS me! Ive been driving for over 40 years and have dealt with dealerships before and his kind of ignorance is rampant in the dealership world....take a reading pal! PS. I do apologize to the 1% of management who might just be regular guys doing an honest job and actually CARE about the customer!(I even know one but is in another city). And i don t fault the technician as there is obviously little quality control ...as in procedures......when a perfectly functional car comes in healthy and is sent off wounded!!!!!............I truly believe this so don t trust the dealers and I thank you for your comments! We dread customers like you. On the other hand... If you go to the doctor with a broken arm and get a staf infection the next day is it the doctors fault? YES! Becoming commonplace event. Do you get angry and accuse him of giving you herpes? There couldn't be any other explination! Totally unreasonable! :chairshot: Look at it this way...At the PRICE, wouldn't the mechanic have been remiss NOT to have checked all the functions of the new key??

Do not take your vehicles to AutoZone for diagnosis. Reading the codes can point you in the right direction but doesn't always tell you exactly what part you need. They "Scan" your vehicle because they want to sell parts (inferior aftermarket parts) The employees there are usually little more than trained monkeys. Do you really want to put junk parts on your Lexus sold to you by an unqualified salesman? Automotive manufacturers purchase parts on a competitive basis, often a VERY competitive basis. So they get the CHEAPEST part available on the market. So, oftentimes, IMMHO more often than otherwise, aftermarket parts are of better quality than OEM parts supplied by the dealer. And yes, reading and knowing the codes does not always result in a direct "attack" on the real problem. But it happens often enough that on the average you are better off than trusting the dealer's service shop.

I don't understand why anyone would want to disable VSC, do you by any chance mean TC, Traction Control..?? No I mean VSC. And TC too. The RX350 is very capable off-road, but the VSC spoils the fun and it causes the vehicle to get stuck in sand. Unplug the MAF/IAT module with the engine idling, plug it back in after the engine dies, restart the engine and you will have a CEL & VSC/TC disable indication for the next few drive cycles. Where do I find the MAF/IAT module? Between the engine intake air filter and the throttle valve.