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Is well on its way to becoming a much greater problem than ABS can/will ever be. But. First, VSC (PSM,etc.) is almost always coupled with Trac. Trac is fairly simple to explain in that all it really does is prevent wheelspin if/when too much gas is being applied for the circumstance. Early versions (92 LS) applied braking to the driven wheels while simultaneosuly dethrottling the engine. Newer, more modern versions (00 GS) still apply the braking immediately but delay the dethrottling slightly to give the operator time to react and lift the throttle on his/her own. VSC/Oversteering, more common to RWD. If the rear is coming around to the right then the right front brake is applied lightly to create a braking "moment", force, counter to the motion of the rear. To the left then the left front brake... VSC/understeering, more common to FWD. The assumption would be that you're trying to turn left and the car isn't tracking the steering angle. At the moment there are two different methods in the marketplace for overcoming this problem. One of these is to simply apply both rear brakes on the theory, correct, that slowing the car will always help. The other method is simply the reverse of the over-steering cure, apply a single rear brake to create a "moment", force, this time as an aid to the steering angle. The problem with all of this is that driver's will see/feel its, VSC/PSM/etc, effect as no different than a new set of tires with a larger contact patch. Without some feedback to the driver (providing a learning experience) indicating that the car has just approached the "edge", and why, most driver's will simply begin to rely on VSC, again and again, just as they would the bigger contact patch. One of the reasons I like the ABS implementation is that vibrating brake pedal tells me that the tire/roadbed adhesion coefficient is not up to the task at hand. Do you know that BMW now has a system that will counter-steer the car, against the driver's steering inputs, if their VSC says the turn is too tight??? Now that's going a bit too far!

Search google for: HID hylow About $600 but is the only really good answer to your problem.

Is well on its way to becoming a much greater problem than ABS can/will ever be. But. First, VSC (PSM,etc.) is almost always coupled with Trac. Trac is fairly simple to explain in that all it really does is prevent wheelspin if/when too much gas is being applied for the circumstance. Early versions (92 LS)applied braking to the driven wheels while simultaneosuly dethrottling the engine. Newer, more modern versions (00 GS) still apply the braking immediately but delay the dethrottling slightly to give the operator time to react and lift the throttle on his/her own. VSC/Oversteering, more common to RWD. If the rear is coming around to the right then the right front brake is applied lightly to create a braking "moment", force, counter to the motion of the rear. To the left then the left front brake... VSC/understeering, more common to FWD. The assumption would be that you're trying to turn left and the car isn't tracking the steering angle. At the moment there are two different methods in the marketplace for overcoming this problem. One of these is to simply apply both rear brakes on the theory, correct, that slowing the car will always help. The other method is simply the reverse of the over-steering cure, apply a single rear brake to create a "moment", force, this time as an aid to the steering angle. The problem with all of this is that driver's will see/feel its, VSC/PSM/etc, effect as no different than a new set of tires with a larger contact patch. Without some feedback to the driver (providing a learning experience) indicating that the car has just approached the "edge", and why, most driver's will simply begin to rely on VSC, again and again, just as they would the bigger contact patch. One of the reasons I like the ABS implementation is that vibrating brake pedal tells me that the tire/roadbed adhesion coefficient is not up to the task at hand. Do you know that BMW now has a system that will counter-steer the car, against the driver's steering inputs, if their VSC says the turn is too tight??? Now that's going a bit too far!

There is no 10k LS430 service. Unless you're running a Taxi service.

Impossible to judge actual deal "value" without knowing monthly payment and residual.

The proper water anti-freeze/coolant mixturre ratio shouldn't do this. But it doesn't hurt to top it off so the "hot" measure is a bit high but not to the point of overflow. Nothing to worry about as long as "hot" measure is reasonably close, certainly never below "cold" measure.

Remove both battery terminals, clean and burnish the battery posts and the inside of the cable connections, reinstall and tighten firmly and carefully. Check that the other end of the cables are firmly and tightly attached.

I removed mine completely since I didn't relish being labelled "L" if the airbag happens to be needed.

Word is that his wife wouldn't allow cigar smoking at home so the club has one huge cigar room and selection on hand.

Have you not noticed the ratio of male vs female early/young microsoft retirees? Amazing, lots of retired secretaries tilt the balance.

Seattle Eastside..... So, how many of those guys running around in new Porsches are trophy husbands?? Besides me.

Actually, the few times I have had it activate I mostly found it to a nuisance. But it does often serve to tell me I'm traveling on a slick surface and therefore I know to use the throttle lightly. And please remember the primary purpose of ABS is to allow you to maintain directional control during severe braking. While it will sometimes help you stop in a shorter distance on a rain slicked surface in the majority of cases it will actually elongate your stopping distance in favor of giving you the ability for directional control. IMMHO future Anti-lock systems will only activate if the VSC yaw sensor indicates that the vehicle is not following the correct "line". ABS can be of great help, but I always disable mine during the summer months.

The ABS pumpmotor runs on 12 volt DC and there is a really good chance that the motor brushes are now worn to the point that they do not quite contact the commutator when COLD. Each time you apply the brakes the ABS ecu checks for brake fluid pressure in the accummulator and if it is low it starts the pumpmotor to replenish the pressure.

Tried several things to bypass "I agree", even leaving battery power on the nav unit in the "trunk" with key off. Allowing entry while traveling should be as simple as opening speedo line to nav except this is done by "network" communications in my 01 RX.

And don't be surprised if at some point you discover that are rotating in different directions, one forward and one backward, that's also NORMAL. Also the reason parking (e-brake) brake should always be set on slippery surfaces.

Clarification... A blinking A/C indication usually indicates that the ECU has sensed a difference, maybe transient, in engine RPM, ignition rate, and compressor rotation rate. Below ~55F the A/C is not needed for cooling, but continues operation (primarily to keep windows and windshield from fogging over) based on refrigerant pressure, (lack of) down to about 35F OAT based on the input from the OAT sensor. Since the A/C is not reliable for this purpose as the OAT declines lower and lower, all it does is result in the incidents of sudden windshield forgging on an early moring drive or anytime then A/C is shutdown for any reason, leaving defrost/defog/demist mode, for instance.

Ecu compares compressor rotaion rate, assuming clutch is enabled, with engine ignition rate, a significant difference will cause the indicator to blink, and I think, the clutch disabled until the next start or A/C off/on cycle. Running through a puddle of water and getting the drive belt wet can cause this and appear intermittent. Below 37F the A/C compressor will not run regardless of the indication. If you have turned it on manually, or do so after it auto turns off at 37F, the indicator will be on but the compressor will still not run until the OAT rises. In the wintertime I switch a 2800 ohm resistor into series with the OAT sensor so the A/C doesn't run if the OAT is below 55F. Prevents most instances of sudden windshield fogover about 5 miles down the road on cold mornings, AND saves fuel.

Ecu compares compressor rotaion rate, assuming clutch is enabled, with engine ignition rate, a significant difference will cause the indicator to blink, and I think, the clutch disabled until the next start or A/C off/on cycle. Running through a puddle of water and getting the drive belt wet can cause this and appear intermittent. Below 37F the A/C compressor will not run regardless of the indication. If you have turned it on manually, or do so after it auto turns off at 37F, the indicator will be on but the compressor will still not run until the OAT rises. Can't find a way to delete, sorry...

Go to: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/cars And rear the entire thread: "03 Camry - air smells bad" And: "wintertime A/C tips" Some important info at: http://www.airsept.com/eed.html

I would disconnect the A/C refrigerant pressure sensor. see why: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/cars "wintertime A/C tips" thread. And: "03 Camry - air smells bad " Can also be helpful.

There are two dissertations, long, thread posts, that may be helpful on your subject, both at: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/cars The first is: "03 Camry - Air smells bad" Second: "Wintertime A/C tips"