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In the engine compartment at the top center of the firewall is a coolant flow (to the heater core) control valve. As you change the demand from maximum heat to maximum cooling the cable driving that valve should move it from fully open to fully closed. If the cable is not attached the valve may be stuck in the open position. If the cable doesn't move it may be disconnected from the blend door servomotor inside the car, near the climate control air distribution plenum. Bottom line is it appears that the blend door servomotor has gone south. Or the coolant flow valve is so "gunked" up (typical!) the servomotor can't move the valve or the blend door. In that case slip the cable off of the valve and see if the servomotor can drive the blend door alone.

Your RX330 is equipped with DBW, e-throttle. Toyota and Lexus adopted this technique to "protect the drive train", prevent the engine from developing any reasonable level of torque while a transaxle shift is in process or upcoming. So, just as your owners manual likely states, there is probably no need to drain and refill the transaxle for the life of the vehicle. It still remains, undoubtedly, a good idea to check the condition of the ATF at each engine oil change just to be sure.

Select a 12 point socket that's just a tad too small to fit over the locking nut and then drive it on with a hammer. A 6 point might work also.

In my estimation, this method that you suggest is not only a poor, uncomfortable, way of keeping the cabin temperature even. On top of that, it would require the compressor to run almost steadily instead of cycling on and off. This will definitely cut your fuel economy. Hey, we're dealing with a Lexus that has a sophisticated climate control system, not a plain old car that just has an air conditioner and a heater. <_< Left on its own, automatic climate control systems will CHILL the cooling evaporator as close to FREEZING as technically possible. It must do that in order to lower the (HOT..??) incoming OUTSIDE air temperature as much as is possible to achieve the HIGHEST possible PROBABILITY of dehumidifying the airflow. Downstream of the cooling evaporator the now COLD (possibly[???] dehumidified) system airflow will be REHEATED to a reasonable comfort level via diversion of a selected portion to flow through the HEATER CORE. First CHILL the air and then REHEAT the air...?? Sound like an efficient technique to you...?? On a HOT day that can mean the A/C compressor will run virtually continuously, if not actually continuously. On the other hand if the incoming outside airflow is so low, say even in recirculate(***) mode, the A/C compressor can more EASILY keep the cooling evaporator nearly freezing, resulting in the compressor duty-cycle being dramatically reduced. *** Not advisable in cool or COLD weather, ABSOLUTELY NOT ADVISABLE.

Leaking at what rate.....PS fluid is CHEAP.

Yes, even in the summertime when you actually need the A/C the FE can be improved substantially by turning the system to MAXIMUM cooling (counter-intuitive, huh..??) and then using the blower speed to regulate your comfort level. If the resulting COLD airflow from the dash outlets is too discomforting change the airflow routing to footwell.

Not to rain on your parade.... But the $1400 rear seal replacement price only applies if the transaxle doesn't have to be removed otherwise. But yes, REALLY GOOD NEWS...!!

The problem started about a week ago, only occasionally and not during every driving session. It would occur after I come to a stop and then try accelerate to 40 + mph. When I first noticed the problem, I would pull over and turn off/on the engine and the shifting would resume as normal. But lately, the problem has been consistent at starting and after I begin driving. -Thanks Assuming no CEL or other diagnostic indication your engine may have simply degraded to the point wherein 4th(OD) can no longer be supported. Miles..?? As a test I would disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes to reset the system's "learned" parameters. If the OD then works for a short period or time then "learns" not to use OD again then you likely need an engine overhaul. You might also try a FULL tank of premium fuel to help bring the engine back into the required OD RPM/torque range

No, you're not missing NOTHING. These days most automatic climate control systems, and MANY manual ones, will run the A/C compressor all year around unless the current OAT is below about 35F. There are three C-best options involving this aspect of the system that the dealer can set for you. A] You will be able to turn the A/C off indefinitely, into "manual" mode, by simply switching it off one time. It will not again operate automatically until you switch it back on, back into automatic mode. B] The A/C can be "unlinked" from automatic operation, with no indication to you of same, in defrost/defog/demist mode. C] The system can be "set" such that it does not automatically switch into cooling mode, airflow switched from footwell to dash outlets, once the cabin temperature rises to within a few degrees of your desired temperature setpoint. As you have probably already noticed that cool and dry airflow striking your face and upper body during a drive when the radiant warming effects are negligible (the surrounding landscape is COLD and/or its DARK night outside) can be somewhat discomforting, if not extremely so. But that is NOT the major point, issue with the "C" setting. As long as the system remains in heating mode, footwell airflow, some minor level of airflow is "leaked" to the interior surface of the windshield to help keep that surface warmed and not as prone to fogging over should there be an "upset" in the cabin atmosphere condition. Once the system automatically switches to cooling mode the interior surface of the windshield might be allowed to CHILL down to the dewpoint of the cabin atmosphere. If your windshield should happen to fog over, or suddenly and unexpectedly fog over as NipponDenso and Denso US designs are very prone to do, the best procedure is to QUICKLY turn the temperature demand to MAXIMUM (the blower speed should "follow") and then switch the system into defrost/defog/demist mode. Also, it wouldn't hurt to lower a rear windshield slightly until the windshield fog clears. Turning on, using the A/C, as an aid to defogging the windshield is a REAL WILDCARD, it may help (OAT above ~45F), or it MAY NOT (moreso the farther the OAT is below ~45F). But even worse, once the A/C is used, it must eventually be turned off and once you do that the previously "gathered" condensate will be freed to enter, flow into, the cabin.

If you remember correctly the early Prius' shipped into canada had a low wattage electric heater in the flow path to the windshield.

I would suspect that if you take a good look under the car it will become obvious.

I would first spend some time and money reducing the cabin's ambient NOISE level below the typical ~70+ db level before I invest any money in an upscale audio system. Otherwise the only way to really appreciate a good high fidelity system is in a nice quiet garage with the windows up, the engine and HVAC blower off. Are you might have someone design a music/sound content pre-processing system, DSP, to automatically raise the system sound content that would otherwise be below 70 db up above that level.

You are missing the POINT...!! These forums on the internet are an absolute GODSEND for the automotive public at large. Where else can the automotive buying public come together cohesively and bring the manufacturers to task for design problems, manufacturering flaws, etc....?? The automotive magazines do an absolutely FINE job of touting the virtues of cars & trucks but would put a serious level of their revenue at risk were they to become a clearing house for the myriad of problems the general public encounters from time to time. Name one venue other than these forums wherein the public at large has a way or method to come together and compare problems, potentially widespread problems, with other individuals. So, if you have nice things to say about whatever car you own, fine, post them here. And if you don't want to know, read about, owners with problems that just might be widespread enough that the manufacturer would even acknowledge a need to know, then simply move on down the page.

.....'97 ES300.... Before you put in more brake fluid check all of the brake pads. As the pads wear down the fluid level in the reservior is drawn down to fill the "void" and you may need to replace the pads...

Yes,...LOL...!! Just because you got them from the dealer and paid an exorbitant price doesn't mean good quality, IMMHO in most cases the opposite would be true. The dealer may have sold you LL bulbs and oftentimes those do not require enough current flow to turn off the bulb failure sensor system.

Four wire connector.. Ground Parking/street/tail lights Left brake/turn signal Right brake/turn signal. Mount a small 12 volt lawn tractor battery on the trailer tongue and use a 12 volt relay to energize the brakes. Energize the relay via a wire tapped/spliced into ANY brake light circuit. If the battery voltage needs to be maintained, long distance trip, run a wire to the rear cigarette lighter output. "..will harm the hybrid computer and charging system.." There is some truth, potentially, to that statement. Your trailer brakes are electro-magnetically operated and that could, would most likely, result in a HUGE electrical spike upon each release of those brakes. So any "direct" electrical connection between the trailer braking system and the towing vehicle's 12 volt power could potentially damage any electrical components sensitive to those over-voltage spikes.

Yes, actually there is.... So as to not discomfort you with a RUSH of still cold airflow most systems will not activate the blower motor until the coolant temperature rises to ~130F.... UNLESS you use the defrost/defog/demist mode. But at the same time most systems will allow you to over-ride the "delay" but turning the blower speed up manually.... Additionally many systems will activate immediately if you set the temperatrue to MAXIMUM. But then this latter procedure will REALLY be discomforting as you will get the HIGHEST blower speed and COLD airflow ASAP. One does wonder why, along with the adoption of the electric compressor, another $10 wasn't spent to put in a refrigerant flow reversing valve and have a HEAT PUMP.

First, I believe, ABSOLUTELY, that aftermarket products are always more robust and/or of better quality than the OEM products. OEM products are selected almost EXCLUSIVELY on price whereas the aftermarket products must be COMPETIVE on more than price. But having said that I don't see the advantage of a mesh covering over the flex bellows of the EGR pipe.

You ca't use LED bulbs nor some of the LL, Long Life, bulbs since they do not draw "enough" current flow.

Check the electrical connections, connector, into the tranny..... The '01 to '03 RX300 is prone to BURNED ATF so the fluid may have been drained to "hide" the symptoms of a failing transaxle.

Wow, you raise some serious questions. First, my '92 LS400 has two electric cooling fans mounted out in front of the condensor/radiator "stack", and I'm fairly sure the later LS models have at least one. The engine driven fan's "clutch" is of the VC, Viscous Clutch, type and as such responds, tightens, due to the level of HEAT coming through the "stack". So the VC clutch being mostly locked may have very well been telling you something that you need to pay attention to. The two fan system works by initially running them in series (low speed, 6 volts each) when the A/C is operated or coolant temperature rises above a certain point. Then in parallel if the coolant temperature continues to rise. Some cars have a thermostat mounted, glued, to the radiator outflow hose to automatically turn the fan on if the radiator alone cannot do an adequate job of cooling. These thermostatically controlled fans are often direct wired to the battery, still fused, which is why you sometimes hear a fan running in a parked car.

There is a steering damper, "shock absorber" mounted across the bottom of the engine that may be your problem. It could also be, possibly, the macpherson struts.

Have you tried the MAX HEAT, highest heat setting, position? In that mode ALL sensors are ignored, the servo motors are "blindly" driven to the maximum heat position. If that should work then there is a simple diagnostic procedure the owner can use to determine which sensor has failed, is failing.

Remove the sensor from its socket, solder two wires to the sensor connections and then use butt splices to connect back into the wiring harness. Insulate WELL... While you're at it you might consider relocating the sensor since in its OEM position it is often influenced by radiant heat from the condensor/radiator stack when idling or moving slowly in stop and go traffic. I moved mine into the right front just behind the bumper. Later models have added DSP, Digital Signal Processing, to "filter out" these radiant effects.