wwest

In an airplane engine the most common cause of this is just one or two slightly or partially blocked fuel injectors. Oxygen sensor would normally detect too lean mixture but by the time the exhaust reaches it it's been "blended" with the other cylinder's exhaust.

Just as likely to be a loose connection in the wiring or even in the amp/driver. Dealer "technicians" will basically be at a loss troubleshooting audio systems. Typically will use "shotgun" repair method, replace components one at a time until something fixes the problem.

Would you believe.... Your RX, at least after 01, has an internal local area network whereby ALL of the ECU's "discuss" things. As far as I could determine the Nav ecu finds out the road speed over the LAN. To defeat the "I agree" I even tried rewiring the Trac ECU so it always had power but to no avail. Another reason for us to STOP buying "captive" navs. The $999.00 portable one I saw at Costco last night is beginning to look very attractive. Probably buy the next RX without.

In the 01 RX there is a voltage dropping resistor mounted under the battery support plate that can be unplugged.

Tranny flush??? I wouldn't do that unless the fluid color or smell indicates a need. My 92 with over 100k miles is finally getting the factory anti-freeze replaced, drained, because the oil change shop says its "murky". Freeze level still tests okay, but....

The only damage a higher grade fuel will do is to your wallet. I picked up my C4 in Germany and was advised that basically any grade available anywhere in Europe, absent ones with lead, would work because of the adaptive nature of the engine ecu. Lexus has the same capability.

74000 miles is just a tad to late to start worrying about transmission problems. If it was going to happen it would have already. Now you're good to go for about another 50-100k miles before wearing out the clutches.

Poor, sloppy, beam pattern.... That's what most irritates me about the 92, nothing you do will really improve the forward vision at night. A friend of mine went so far as to cut openings in the lower portion of the front end to add driving lights.

Spin..... Well, not exactly. The Trac ecu watches the ABS sensors at the front and compares the front rotation rate with each of the rear wheels, individually. If either rear wheel should turn faster, for even a short duration, say a 4" wide plastic crosswalk strip that's wet, the Trac indicator will illuminate briefly. Therefore my use of the term "slip", no spin. Obviously it would also do it for a true "spin".

If a rear wheel slips, even sligthtly, during hard acceleration Trac will activate. If you're sure there is no slippage then you need to look into the cause.

Silvermate, more... Sorry, had to go looking for wwest & microswitch. Two points, please. When I suggested a microswitch or limit switch adjustmet might be the problem I had a very clear vision, picture, in my mind of the e-brake pedal and the switch location and it truly did not occur to me that the reader might not. And yes, you did follow up and ask for more detail. But by the time I discovered that, tansupplyman had already responded with what appeared to me at the time to be sufficient clarification. Sometimes I get too verbose and sometimes to brief, sorry again.

Silvermate, Sorry, I didn't mean to offend. Your HID answer truly did appear to be ambiguous to me. It wasn't clear if you mean to say that the HID alternative looked good from an on-looker's prospective, or looked good from the driver's viewpoint. Please recognize, on my behalf, that many folks use HID alternatives only to look good, not necessarily to see well.

And then some of consider "performance enhancements" JUNK! Unless it translates into better fuel economy.

Lexus can sell you a shop manual that is only the wiring or you can buy the standard two volume set that includes the wiring diagrams in the back of the second volume.

"as far as looks go......" Do you mean "on-lookers" think you really have HID, or do you mean "looks" as in better vision for the driver. Personally I care not about the first.

Your oxygen sensor might last for over 100k miles, why waste the money? Three out of four in my 92 LS are still working at over 100k.

Tried type one, didn't really like it, went back to original.

Find someone with HID that will let you drive on a dark street. World of difference. Color night vision is vastly improved for us old folks.

So, how do I submit picture #233 in the LS gallery for consideration?

Dead, or almost dead, battery cell? The way the alternator works is via pulse modulation. The regulator calls for full alternator output and if the battery is fully charged already the output quickly reaches the upper voltage limit and the regulator opens the ciruit. This all happens about 100 times a second to no flickering is visible, generally. If the battery is not well charged it takes longer for the voltage to rise and the pulse duration is longer. The flickering you see may have two distinct causes. An open, or high resistance battery connection will allow the alternator output to "spike", which you will see as flickering. A battery that cannot be fully charged, a dead cell, can do the same thing. There should be a rather large guage wire directly from the battery positive post to the regulator (sometimes within the alternator), check that it has good connections on both ends also. And check that the alternator/regulator grounding posts are well connected. Swap in a different 12v car battery temporarily??

Most likely your coolant is exiting the vehicle via the exhaust pipe. Watch for white smoke, steam, out the back of the car when you floor it. Blown head gasket if so. Oops, sorry I got that a bit wrong on first pass. You will see the steam just after getting OFF the gas. With the throttle closed and the engine still at high RPM the "excessive" vacuum will pull coolant into the cylinders.

HID hylow reference. Is a HID bulb with built in solenoid that physically moves the ARC from the low beam position to the high beam position. But why would you lose the fogs??

Aen't modern tecnology wonderful?? When halogen bulbs first came on the scene some of you will remember that they had a strange propensity for failing early in their use. Then next we heard that the battery and alternator wiring had to be "solidified", hardened, to prevent voltage spikes. What it finally came down to was that the Halogen bulb filament could not withstand the super high current inrush during repetitive on/off cycles. All incandescent bulb filaments have a temperature coefficient that causes the resistance to increase, dramatically, as the filament heats. Halogen bulb filaments have an unusually low starting resistance meaning the initial current inrush can be extremely high. Now-a-days vehicles that are shipped with halogen bulbs have factory wiring that is designed to have just enough series resistance to overcome the sudden inrush and thereby prevent premature halogen bulb failure. Look at the wire guage on an earlier headlamp assembly vs one for halogen, halogen wiring guage will look as if it isn't up to the task in comparison. But to be sure, the most common failure I have seen from 100/80 watt headlamps was/is at the lamp/bulb connecter itself, nearby bulb HEAT and higher current than connector contact design provides for I suppose.

Simple microswitch, limit switch adjustment.

Standard 9007 high/low bulbs are 65/55 watts. 100/80 watts represents a 50% amperage overload for your wiring, maybe not enough to start a GOOD fire, but certainly enough to melt insulation, if you're not lucky. In the meantime you maybe living with something less than 100/80 due to voltage drop in the under rated wiring. Use a relay.