stroked4.6

If the left side blinks normally that means the left side has no bulbs out. Since the rear right bulb is blinking very quickly that means your front right bulb is out. If he didn’t replace the bulb and just re-installed that bulb you should replace both the right and left front turn markers. It might be a bad connection but he should have installed new bulbs. If it was a new bulb I would say check your wiring but since he put an old bulb back in I would say just replace the bulbs and use some light bulb grease on the connections. Any auto parts store should have the replacement. I wouldn’t recommend a big trip without your blinkers working. Good Luck

Did get a warranty with the car? If you just bought the car have the dealership pay for a new caliper. Test the caliper out before you go out and buy a new one. Just remove the wheel and then take the caliper off by removing the two hold down bolts. Then get a large C-clamp and try and compress the piston. Use a block of wood or something else so the c-clamp isnt directly on the piston and the pressure is disbursed evenly. If it compresses its good and if not its bad.

Yeah this does seem to be a common problem with the chrome rims. The only thing short of buying new rims or sending them to get re chromed would be to scrape or sand down the edges slightly. Then use some bead sealant. If that doesn’t work you'll have to buy new rims. Try out ebay or tirerack to explore all your options. For the price Lexus wants you could get a really nice aftermarket rim.

Have you checked the rear rotors pads? It could either be the rear wear indicators or the front wear indictaors are bent too much and touching the rotor.

Do you have an aftermarket stereo?

It’s a good idea to change your plugs when doing this because all the crap that’s broken up in the combustion chamber can get on the plugs. Especially if there is a lot of smoke from the carbon break up you should change the plugs because they are probably fouled up from the debris.

Same thing happens with my 93. The trunk slams closed if not supported. The gas shocks on the trunk are shot. Replace those and you should be fine.

What you need to do is find out at what temperature the fan should turn on. Then start the car up and see when the fan actually comes on. It would be more accurate if you had a scanner which could get in the computer and display all the information digitally. With this you could see the exact temperature the fan turns on.

Did you let the car with the good battery run for a few minutes to give the dead battery some charge or did you try right away? With new cars its really not good to jump start cars this way. You should buy a battery booster and use this. Jump starting cars with cables running from one car to another was created when cars had little electronics, now you could fry and computer or damage other components by jump starting the conventional way. Your best bet is to buy the battery booster and use that. You wont even need another car if you use this.

I was just about to add that comment. Spacers will add to premature wheel bearing failure and it will put more stress on the studs. Not worth it IMO. You are much more likely to have problems down the road.

There is a good chance that it’s a bad thermostat. The thermostat might not be closing properly. If the thermostat doesn’t close then you will get hot air, the coolant will cool, then it will rebuild slowly and you will get a small amount of heat and it will continue to do this. How is your temperature needle? This should tell you if the thermostat is working properly.

Just in case you don’t know there is an easy test you can do to test your motor mounts. First put your foot on the brake then put it down in park, with your foot still on the brake all the way push the gas pedal sightly to rev the engine up a little bit. Continue this in park and reverse. You want to have to hood open and look at the engine to see how much it moves. Movement should be minimal and if it does move excessively you need motor mounts.

Well i just brought it to school today to check it out and here's what we found out.. On the EGR system the EGR Temp sensor is shot. The resistance is totally off so i guess ill be needing that. The only thing is its dealer only and they want $202 for this small temp sensor. I really dont know why its so much it’s a small sensor with 6" of wire coming off it with a plug. And with the rear o2 sensor there is either a problem with the heating element or wiring (including computer but my teacher doubts it’s the computer). The thing is I bought a new Bosch OEM universal but it still doesn’t work. Should I try and exchange it for a Denso O2 sensor since its more original and Denso makes all the parts on this car. Any thoughts regarding the O2 sensor? Anyone use the Bosch or should I try and get the Denso? I hope NAPA could get me the Denso sensor.

Ive heard some good things about Auto Masters of Westchester. If your willing to go over the bridge this would be a good place to go. It?s a nice facility. I never personally got my car dynod there because they are more of the import scene. They do a lot of sti's and jap cars so I doubt they would have a problem with your car. Depending on where you are in Long Island this shop is probably 20 minutes over the Whitestone bridge. Its in Mamaroneck if your familiar with Westchester. Here is their website :: http://www.automasterofwestchester.com Yeah Long Island does have a lot of American muscle dynos. Im actually going to mustang magic once i get the new transmission in my stang this spring.

Yes I was going to say starter contacts as well. You may want to check the teeth on both the starter gear and flex plate since its not engaging perfectly all the time. Hopefully they are all in good condition. Better to check with the starter out than have a bigger headache later on.

Ive got a whole 60K miles on my 93 GS300 (just bought the car).

You might want to try and lube the cable up with some white lithium grease. Sounds like its a cable problem and not a pedal problem. It might be binding or sticking when a certain amount of throttle/load is applied. I wouldn’t worry about the transmission it wouldn’t cause this problem.

Have you checked all the fuses both under the hood and under the dash? When this happened did you hit a large bump or go in any deep puddles?

I would double check you vacuum hoses.

Will it turn back slowly no matter if the engine was just turned off or not? It shouldn’t make a difference since it’s a separate component. Sound like the retractor/tensioner might be worn out. If you yank on it quicky does it still lock in place. I would just buy a new belt and assembly if its not working properly. This is one parts of the car you want in perfect condition.

Im not 100% sure but its very possible they use silicone as a gasket. Many components are sealed with silicone. If used correctly it does a great job. Its not uncommon to use silicone or some type of liquid gasket to seal differentials, timing covers, transmissions, and transfer cases. You could try www.rockauto.com to see if they carry a gasket for the trans pan.

I had two codes for egr and rear o2 sensor. So I cleaned the egr and replaced the rear o2 sensor but the light will not go off. I’ve reset the computer and the light automatically comes back on within a second of starting the car. I brought it get the codes scanned and the two cods keep coming back up. My mechanic sais this is odd because the rear o2 sensor doesn’t start sending signal until the car has cycled and the egr does the same. They don’t turn on when the car is first started. He thought it might be the computer since they light goes on a stays on but i tried another computer and have the same problem. Any ideas on what this could be? I test the o2 sensor harness coming from the car and its sending a 14V signal and two other voltages much lower readings. I know the egr modulator is clogged and isnt sending out any vacuum but this wouldn’t be an immediate light would it. Im going to remove the vapor canister tomorrow and see how that looks. Could I blow compressed air through the egr vapor lines to make sure they aren’t clogged? I don’t want to damage any other components. Im at a loss here I really don’t know why these two codes keep coming back. I was hoping it wasn’t a short in the harness. I think this might be the case so ill have my DVOM ready tomorrow. One other thing if i connect just one of the big plugs in the ecu and try and start the car it wont but there is no check engine light. I don’t know id this means anything? Does anyone happen to have any ecu wiring diagrams or any other diagrams which could help me solve the problem? Thanks John

No good news today. I brought it to my mechanic just to scan the computer and it found the same faults even after resetting computer. Rear O2 sensor and faulty EGR. I tested the EGR modulator and that’s clogged so hopefully thats why the EGR fault is set but there is a new o2 sensor in there and the wiring looks like it was never touched or tampered with. The odd thing is the code (light) comes right up when you start the car. It comes up instantly not even a second later. We both found that odd since the o2 sensor and egr don’t turn on until the car cycles so the codes should not have come up for a couple minutes. My mechanic is thinking there is something wrong in the computer itself or worse somewhere in the wiring to these components. Any thoughts. Im going to work on this until work so hopefully i could get that modulator and do some diagnosing.

Well i finished everything up but the fuel filter and i still have the check engine light on. Im going to double check the codes tomorrow. Hopefully I’ll be able to use the scan tool at school. I cleaned out the EGR and EGR tube and checked to see if it was working properly and it was. When i applied vacuum the diaphragm would move. I guess there could be a clogged line but that will take a while to track down since i would have to disconnect all the lines and shoot air through them. The exhaust on the car really smells. Ive been reading about other items in the EGR line and I keep seeing people having problem with the carbon/vapor canister and the modulator. Could anyone describe the function of these items? Will these throw a code and make the exhaust smell. Any light on this situation would be great. I checked the VSV sensor and it is above the specified reistance when cold. Specified cold is 30-34 ohms and its reading 42.2 ohms right now. Is there any way to test the carbon canister or modulator? Thanks John

Do you have any leaks? Is this power booster run off of the power steering like with many other cars? I would test the booster first. With the car off push your foot down on the pedal. Then start the car. The pedal should pop up rapidly if the booster is good. The pedal will pop up firmly. This tells you the booster is doing it job in providing pressure for the brakes. Its possible one of the seals in the master is shot. This would cause a mushy pedal but no leaks would be found. Just another scenerio.