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Just had a coworker do this to mine.

I fear change. B)

The latch system didn't come into use until 2000. You don't want the seat to move more than an inch forward/back or side to side. Does your car have the shoulder harness or just the lap belt? If you have the harness, a trick is to run the belt through, buckle it, extend it all the way so it locks and retracts. Then basically sit/kneel on the seat with all your weight and pull down as hard as you can on the belt at the point where it runs vertically into side of door area. Once you release it and remove your weight from the seat, you'll be good to go. Good luck. If you cant get it to work, go to a local police or firestation for help. Its gotta be right.

Man, did I have the car for you a few months ago. ;)

I can understand the "knee jerk" to go from a high priced time bomb maintenance situation to a vehicle that will be covered as long as you own it. Its human nature. ;)

Good to hear, Victor! I feel the exact same way. The only knock on the last gen (95-97) of the 80 was the failed head gasket issue that seem to plague more than it should. Keeping my fingers crossed on that on but otherwise am loving every mile. B)

I just bought a 97 LC a few months ago. How did you like yours? Why did you sell it?

Just get Lexol. The price/performance/availability ratio is much better than Leatherique. :whistles:

Clay? Clay who?

I apologize for being so slow. I can certainly prove that the alcohol in Lexol Leather Conditioner will not eat away the stitching of leather car seats after years of repeated use. There is not any alcohol in Lexol Leather Conditioner and there never has been any at least not in the 26 years that I have been involved with the product. Lexol Leataher Conditioner is basically a leataher fat-liquor of the type that is used on all leather as part of the manufacturing process. Lexol Leather Conditioner will not damage the stitching of leather car seats. If someone is saying otherwise, they are lying to you. Don Jenkins Lexol Technical Consultant :chairshot:

One household solution I haven't tried yet is distilled white vinigar. Think that might work?

I'm a little confused. What is bleeding that cleaning them will fix? Also, you say to clean with soap and water but isn't that what washing the car basically does? Or are you saying scrub the "seals" (outside of windows) with a cloth with more direct pressure? Thanks.

Since this is still the best detailing forum on the net, I'm gonna post here about my Land Cruiser. :P Never seen this problem before but I can't figure out a good way to take care of this. When it rains, I get black "dirt streaks" running down all sides of the truck and they are a beeatch to get off. If I scrub real hard with a QD or the like I can almost remove them but its not practical to do this often. However, the biggest problem seems to be that the PO didn't address this issue much because the entire hood is covered with this dirt or grime or whatever and has combined with some water spotting to really cause a problem. Claying doesn't remove it as its not "bonded". Ispropyl alcohol works a little bit but not well enough. I washed it today and as usual the car wash doesn't touch it. I then tried Meguiar's cleaner wax and this helped a little better as I applied it. I noticed if I accidentally wiped my wax applicator over the rubber pieces it streaked black on the cloth and paint. Seems I need to get a little more "abrasive" to get this stuff off. Any suggestions? Some type of "paint cleaner" before waxing? If so, what? If pics are needed I can get 'em tomorrow. Thanx dudes.

Looks good! And plenty dark enough for me. :) You sure you want the dealer cleaning your car? ;)

+1 ;)

B) Don't ask how I know this or I'll break down and cry again. No offense, but its worth it to me to make you cry. B)

At this point I would probably just do as they advise.

Could still be the battery as it takes more current to turn the car over than run the electronics. Make sure you are getting good contact b/w the battery cable clamps and the terminals. Clamps may be busted or need tightening.

Hopefully you still have the "Buyer's Guide" that the dealer by law must provide with the car. Its usually taped to it on the lot. Read it carefully, it will say "as-is" on it if it is. If your problem turns out to be MAJOR then you may be able to get the FTC or a state agency to help you out. Or you may need a lawyer...

One theory: Looks like a 36 month lease and the lessee bought the car outright near the end. Probably a good sign. Nice find. B)

Got a call this morning. The dealer already sold the car at a substantial discount. The new owner was told it was salvaged and still bought it but told me he didn't sleep last night worrying about it. The guy lucked out I'd say. Takes some ballz to blindly buy a salvaged title vehicle. :whistles:

Done, done, done. And I'm thinkin' your buddy will pass on the SC. ;)

What specifically did it do? I did notice the rag had some of the color on it after cleaning Kinda gave it an odd texture and seemed to degrade the splitting that was already occuring. I know that sounds odd but best way I can explain it.

No prob, sent.