RDM

Whatever kit it is, that's a UCF20. Not going to fit too well on your car.

Since the part has a ball joint in it, buying new is more advised, though few people ever replace the parts down the road the ball joints do wear out, why put an old one back on when a new one is really not that much more expensive? Now if it was an upper arm where it's like $400 new, I'd definitely go used, but an extra $40-50 is worth it for the peace of mind. Also if you really just want to save money, you can likely find it even cheaper used if you call a few salvage yards, if it's $100 new you can find it for $25-30 if you make the effort. If it was me though, I'd replace both sides with brand new. In fact I wonder if if they're that cheap for the UCF10, usually anything link related is minimum $200 on these cars.

Corner light, parking light, sidemarker light, lots of names for it, but if you're buying one online you'll see a picture of it more than likely. Easy to pick from there.

Hard to tell, but if the fender apron and core support aren't damaged then it's just simply replacing parts, you can do it yourself in a couple hours. Parts at a salvage yard won't be more than $1500.

Those are UCF21 headlights, it's a UCF21 chassis.

Shame I missed all the drama. I'm betting the o-ring too. My ruptured last Winter out of nowhere, it just dried up and cracked, allowing for a good gallon of coolant to leak out during warm up one morning. It sits on the front end of the heater pipe, fitted into the back of the water pump housing. $3 for the part, about an hour to replace if you're good, 3-4 hours if not. Also, the pipe in question is not required to be removed for either a water pump or a starter replacement. Someone lied to you. Can the crying stop now, or do we need to keep going?

That link, although a ton of excellent work, isn't what he asked. That shows converting the front bumper only on a UCF20 to the UCF30. This guy wants to convert the entire front end from UCF20 to UCF21 from what I read. The parts *should* all bolt on since the chassis is the same, but you'll need hood, fenders, headlights, bumper, and all associated parts to convert, which will be fairly expensive even through a salvage yard.

The 3rd post clearly lists this is the Pioneer amplifier for sale, not the Nakamichi. This post is also nearly a year old.

One way to verify application is to go to an auto parts site, say rockauto.com, and type the part in along with your make/model. Then cross reference the number to the other model. Say if you find a Moog part that fits the LS, then match it to the GS, you know for certain it's a direct crossover. I just did this and the part numbers do not match between a '99 LS and GS. So you can assume they are not the same. I know early generation LS and GS models shared lower ball joints, but not sure about other parts. Maybe by second generation they had evolved enough apart to no longer share components.

Unplug the fluid level sensor. Does it still do it? If not, then add fluid.

I'm surprised to read this. Nissan, as well as a few other manufacturers, offer lifetime warranties on passive restraint systems. On older model Altimas and 240SXs that used the automatic retractable belt systems they will even pay to upgrade to manual belts and delete the electronic mess. Seems Lexus, being a better quality company, would do the same.

There's a seller on Ebay who carries replicas of the LS 18" wheels, he also has the GS and IS 18"s too. They're not as strong as OEM, but a full set is right around $500. I have a set on my '92 and they've been fine for four years, no issues.

Screws at each bottom corner, then a lot of snaps. The 90-92 mouldings use several different type of snaps too, whereas the 93-94 only uses two kinds. Also, the later models have the rocker moulding the early cars didn't have, thus the door/fender/quarter pieces are all different. I upgraded my 1992 with the later moulding and learned this as I went along. Looks 10x better though now.

No clue what you mean by 'outer door panel', the door skin is glued and pinch welded to the door frame, replacing it requires several hours of labor. If you just want to replace the door entirely, which is the easy and quick route, unplug it and unbolt the door stop and hinges. Pretty self explanatory.

Wow, nice spamming there guy. A link isn't free if you have to fill out some stupid survey that will then send your contact info across the web.

Is it doing it automatically, or are you holding the key? The windows should roll down if you hold the key to the unlocked position, that's a pretty common feature on a lot of luxury cars, Jaguar began doing it in the early '90s. If yours just does it without triggering, the key cylinder may be sticking in the unlocked position.

There are actually two, one on each side of the rod the shifter rotates on. You can replace them from inside the car too, I did mine about a year ago. One was worn, the other was completely gone. The dealer can show you a breakdown of the assembly so you can see where they go, then just take it apart and go, pretty easy.

The Adus bushings are your best bet, there's several retailers who sell them.

Has anyone ever looked into converting the 1990-94 style tension rod (strut rod) to the later style? I've been waiting to find a salvage 1995+ to pull the parts from and see if they could be adapted to work, it's a far superior design and the replacement bushings, if needed, are considerably less expensive. Just wondering if anyone else has had the idea.

I run the OE 18" wheel on my LS400 but with a 245/40-18, a little more sidewall is nice to cushion the wheels from potholes, etc. The change is size won't effect the speedometer enough to worry about.

You can easily find an arm at a salvage yard. I've never seen a wrecked LS400 that didn't have the complete rear end, no one ever buys those pieces.

Agreed, Dexron III is fine for the power steering system.

Are the LS430 nozzles close enough that if you trimmed the hole out, they'd fit? On the Nissan 240SX the later 1997-98 models are larger than the 1995-96, people just trim the hood with a dremel just a hair to accommodate them. I'm betting the LS is similar.

http://www.lexuspartsnow.com/ With diagrams. Free.

I just skimmed over that because it's a ton to read this early in the morning. Check the alternator for fluid intrusion, it's pretty easy to see from the top and bottom. If so, it's shorted out, common and as you mentioned something you've already done, but I'm betting they never replaced the idle up valve on the power steering pump, which is the main culprit. If so, remove and plug the valve, pull and have the alternator rebuilt. You won't pay more than $200 total and be back on the road. There is no need to have Lexus do the service or pay Lexus new part prices.