LexInfo

as far as i konw the TPWS system are standard on 04 and up LS....

whats the pressure after the car sat for an extended amount of time? on the early 04 ls , lexus had a TSIB regarding the TPWS and it involves the ABS/VSC ECU to be changed due to an updated software in the ecu for the tire light. you can probably bring the car back to the dealer and have them check your VIN and see if it falls in the replacement vin range. keep in mind the system takes up to 100 miles for it to initialize properly so tire pressures must be even and correct during the reinitialization time.

more so the ecu than the TPS, also it was bank specific so if its ecu related it will throw other codes and if its tps related it will be both banks..... I would check the OCV on bank 2 and go from there.

check for a seized caliper slide pin on the front calipers, most of the time the dust boot are left not covering the pin after a brake repair and over time this cause moisture and dirt to get into them and seize them in place, and it will cause you exact concern. Thanks for the reply I have since taken my car to the Lexus dealer and was told the calipers needed to be replace which I don't understand the car only has a little over 51,000 miles. This is my 3rd Lexus, I previously owned a 1995 and 1998 ES300 never had a problem sold the 1995 to a friend with 110,000 miles never had a problem but normal wear and tear my friend still owns the car and he is very happy. Desided to trade up for the GS300 but seems this was a bad choice. Personally they all great cars and i definally like the GS over the ES both in style and performance, thats just me.... :) Its a very common thing on the GS with the pins seized in place due to a misplaced boot. if you dont mind me asking, which dealer did you bring your car to? I took my car to Lexus of Rockville Centre in New York How do you like the service department ?

The vvt-i oil control valve needs to be checked for a possible malfunction along with the cam sensors, bank two is the one where the oil cap is located. if you are mechanically inclined you can remove the engine cover and see the oil control valve, it has a black connector and the valve body is gold in color it gets attached to the cylinder head with one 10 mm bolt, remove and pull it out, fairly easy to do. you can bench test it or just get it replaced......

You might want to check both of the cam sensors located on each sides of the cam sprocket and especially the crank sensor on the engine with an oscilloscope but a voltmeter can do also. its better to check the signal at the engine ecu to elimate all the possible wiring fault. also there are two igniters located around the master cylinder area which controls the primary ignition circuit and also confirms the ignition signal to the engien ecu. some rare cases they go bad, but i would not replace them with out checking the basics first Good luck ....

check under car where you shift linkage is attached to the neutral safety switch, make sure its aligned properly and not bend in anyway. if all ok than i would check the shifter console itself and make sure thats working properly and go from there....

theres a EGR position sensor on top of the EGR valve, make sure thats working properly with a volt meter and find the EGR VSV located on the VSV rail on top of the engine by the intake manifold and check the VSV operation, make sure theres vacuum going to the EGR modulator and out to the valve... i've seen a couple of the EGR position sensor malfunction that caused the same problem. Good luck

hey sorry to hear that.... but from what i know, the lexus/toyota vehicles uses something called a "floating type differential" on their rear wheel drive vehicles, which means the differential is mounted to the rear subframe via RUBBER bushings, i hate to say it but they all thump under the right conditions, very much like the driveshaft clunk you find on the GX and the LX. changing the bushings will probably mean the rear subframe gets changed and after that it will most definally return within a short period of time. i would still have the dealer double check your driveshaft play and make sure its within spec. and go from there....good luck

Theres a setting in your CBES( customized body electrical system.) feature that can enable the sunroof to open via the wireless remote. your car is mostl likely disabled. check with the dealer and have them access the CBES program and go into the settings and check.

there are two knock sensors, one for each bank. it might be the other one thats causing the light to come on. also you shoould have him check the harness that comes off the sensors, it gets connected to the main engine hearness around the thermostat housing area, just to be sure. Again this is based on the fact the engine is not knocking of course.. good luck Thanx so much for your feedback! i appreciate it! :D Anytime, good luck with the car. :)

check for a seized caliper slide pin on the front calipers, most of the time the dust boot are left not covering the pin after a brake repair and over time this cause moisture and dirt to get into them and seize them in place, and it will cause you exact concern. Thanks for the reply I have since taken my car to the Lexus dealer and was told the calipers needed to be replace which I don't understand the car only has a little over 51,000 miles. This is my 3rd Lexus, I previously owned a 1995 and 1998 ES300 never had a problem sold the 1995 to a friend with 110,000 miles never had a problem but normal wear and tear my friend still owns the car and he is very happy. Desided to trade up for the GS300 but seems this was a bad choice. Personally they all great cars and i definally like the GS over the ES both in style and performance, thats just me.... :) Its a very common thing on the GS with the pins seized in place due to a misplaced boot. if you dont mind me asking, which dealer did you bring your car to?

there are two knock sensors, one for each bank. it might be the other one thats causing the light to come on. also you shoould have him check the harness that comes off the sensors, it gets connected to the main engine hearness around the thermostat housing area, just to be sure. Again this is based on the fact the engine is not knocking of course.. good luck

its an issue with the 02 and up model ES.. the shifter console needs to be repalced. its an internal open in the console, when selsecting gears it does not output the proper voltage to signal the combination meter ecu to have the "D" indicator to be turned on.

if no one ever tried to gain access, then most likely the hard drive shorted, you can gain access to the disk its under the passenger seat and eject it from the hard drive and take a look to see if any scratches are present. if not the disk is ok to reuse but if there are visible scratches then the hard drive and the disk are going to need replacement. since its a o4 the parts should be in warranty if you can locate a lexus dealer around you. good luck...

check for a seized caliper slide pin on the front calipers, most of the time the dust boot are left not covering the pin after a brake repair and over time this cause moisture and dirt to get into them and seize them in place, and it will cause you exact concern.

Thanks. That's very interesting! it might be your injectors ticking, they have the same problem on the 330's

due the the difference in nav. software in the hard drive, it will not use the disk. it will indicate an incorrect disk is installed.

most of the time if the tune setting cant be changed the amp is most likey bad.

the guys who dropped your tank, did they check the black plastic valve on top of the gas tank? I have seen it stuck closed causing gas not to fill up, I think the valve is called an ORVR valve, what it does is it vents the fuel vapor created during refueling into you charcoal canister via a balck plastic line. another quick check you can do is to disconnect that line at the charcoal canister and try to pump gas into the tank, if the tank fill up with no problem then you have a clogged valve on the charcoal canister side. hope this help....

checked your exhaust system for a possible clogged catalytic converter?

wireless. 1- all doors closed and locked except drivers door (open and unlocked) 2- place key in ignition turn it to on and off 3- cycle the manual door lock from unlock to lock 5 times 4- closed the driver side door and open the driver side door 5- perform step 3. 6- place key in ignition and turn it on to off (one time to add a key) on and off two times ( rewrite ) pull key out of ignition, the door lock should response by going to lock and unlock( one time to add key) lock and unlock two times for rewrite mode. 7- push lock and unlock bottom on key together for 1 sesond and push unlock one time. if procedure is performed correctly the door lock will lock then unlockand alarm beper will sound. immobilizer. 1- start car and stop car. remove key from ignition cylinder. 2- place registered master key in ignition do not turn on. 3- push gas pedal 5 times 4- push brake pedal 6 times 5- take out registered master key from ignition. 6- place new key in ignition. do not turn on 7- push gas pedal one time. 8- wait 60 seconds, the factory security indicator should go off then the key is programmed. the immobilizer section will only work if you have a registered "Master key" if you only have a valet then it will not work unless the valet was registered to be a master key. its sounds kinda crazy to send a car back to the states just to get the keys programmed.

if all wiring and all connections check out to be ok, then most likely the tuner inside the radio is bad. when it plays on the presets you have on the radio try move it to another. i.e if your station on 1 is cutting out on fm1 try station 1 on fm2 to see if problem goes away. it definally sound like the radio unit is bad.

it can not play dvd's, the 2nd gen nav. system uses an hard drive like unit in the nav. ecu. best bet is probably install a aftermarket unit.

you will need to replace the shifter console mainly due to the fact you will not have overdrive and you will burn alot more gas than it suppose to. the piece they are refering to is the piece that you use to put the car in gear, its located in the center console and comes as an assembly minus the shift knob and the gear indicator cover. The shifter console assembly has an ecu that inputs to the combination meter which will indicate what gear mode you're in when you place the gear selector in D 4 3 2 or L on the combination meter and this is also used to signal the engine ecu what mode the transmission is in so the engine ecu will than shift the transmission according to the gear selector position. I guess its not power train mainly its more body/body electrical related issue. :(