VBdenny

Just a guess but there aren't too many things that make that noise. Perhaps one of the inner 14mm caliper bolts has come loose or was never einistalled. This causes the inner part of the caliper which holds the brake pads to rotate outward. I posted pictures of the caliper in the gallery. I also have a powerpoint presentaion I made when I did mine. Email me if you would like it. Luckily, they're really easy to fix.

Well, perhaps VMF is correct however sometimes whining sounds are often a symptom of alternator bearing going bad. The reason it increases with the A/C on is because of the extra load. If your PS pump leaked on it prior to the replacement, it could be a delayed result. Here is how you find out what is whining (besides you when you get the bill to fix it). Take a long screwdriver and hold the handle to your ear while placing the other end against various components. It works like a stethescope. Just be really carefull not to accidently stick it into the fan blade or belt . You will quickly find the source. It is hard to get it near the waterpump, but they usually don't whine much, they just start leaking. Good luck and be careful.

I went to the local Lexus dealer to inquire. There are three manuals, $100, $100, & $50. To get all the stuff you need all three. Then as my B'klyn friend VMF suggested, I got alldata.com. For $25 it's worth it just for the reading. Factory shop manuals are really good except they always mention "USE TOOL J-1732f" and stuff like that. Bet you don't have that tool handy.

For oil use 5W-30, any brand of synthetic. I have always used Fram XG filters. Oil costs me a little less than $5/qt. filters about $10. Nothing to lube on the 400

I'll clock in with 131,000 miles

Luckily, I copied the infor and saved it here is what was posted to fix the problem Hey Hoffmnjp Im about a week late on your post I dont know if you have fixed it yet but if not heres your fix. You do have a bad ground. Very common in early LS's. Open the trunk on the drivers side trunk hinge (curved bar attaching trunk to car)there is a black plastic piece running the length of the hinge protecting a small wiring harness that runs through the trunk hinge. Pull that down and out of the way.Pull the harness out of the hinge it kind of runs down the hinge and then goes up and makes a u turn pull that out .You can pulldown the trunk liner on drivers side and see where it snaps on to a bolt pull that off of the bolt to give yourself a little more wire length to work with. Now you will see where the wires make a uturn inside another plastic piece.Unravel the tape in this area and remove the plastic piece. You will find a broken wire (white with black stripe) made a little to short at the factory. Splice in a small 2 inch extension betweeen the broken ends preferably solder it ( use butt connectors that you crimp on or twist and tape if you must.) Tape the harness back up. Put it all back together.

Yeah, I also remember a thread about a wire in the trunk. The wire is located in the left hinge and was made too short or something. I think it was a black wire with a white stripe. Fixing the wire fixes the problem. The problem is that the thread wasn't named about the wire. If I can find it I'll let you know

No, I have been out of town so much lately that I haven't gotten to it. It's in my garage while I'm working on the A/C. I'm getting reasy to take out the control unit and send it to mikado. Then I have to figure out why my compressor isn't engaging. The only code I'm getting is a 33. I'm working on it. Yeah, I watching little E running at Darlington right now. Rusty got smacked good!

I'd fill it as soon as possible with premium. The computer is compensating to prevent engine damage from detonation. Like the Caillac Northstars, these engines do not run very well on low octane fuel. Since my wife usually has the car in NJ where they put the gas in your car, I put an extra sticker on the filler car that says PREMIUM so some flunky gas station dude doesn't screw up. The fuel system cleaner never hurts either. I use Valvoline Fuel System treatment ($10US) about twice a year.

Yeah. when I was going up to red lights, I heard this boooom ka boooom and the whole car shook. Turned out to be some kid in a tricked up honda behind me with really loud speakers.

Many good observations SRK. Interesting about the MB valves, hadn't heard that before. $5,000 even in Canada seems excessive. I also agree that those of us who choose to have a Lexus were not misled about the costs. From my point of thinking I believe that people will buy cars from dealers that truly support them. Doing nice things for owners sends a positive message. Besides, they know that once you have a Lexus, other vehicles are supplemental. I have a new truck sitting here thet I rarely drive. Nope, I drive my 1990 LS instead. They know most of us will buy another Lexus when we feel the need. Wouldn't you feel better buying from a dealer who was cool with you even when your car was old?

Salt and cold really screw cars up. I grew up near Syracuse NY and the first thing to go (after the body) was the electrical system. Every car I owned there had electrical problems. Cars ladt 3 times longer in warmer climites. Those dudes (and dudettes) out in AZ and Cal have it made. We have high humidity here in Virginia beach but my car is usally in the garage at night. I also heard junkyards mentioned. You'd have better luck finding 1000 bucks on the street than you will finding any LS 400 in a junkyard. I've been in many and have only ever seen two Lexuses in a boneyard, Both were 1990 ES 250's. Maybe Matthew could set up a seperate page where we could store all the how to fix stuff info that people share. How about it Matthew?

I love Michelin's, without a doubt one of the finest tires made. I do consider Continetal tires just about equivilent as another perfect tire. If I could get Conti's for 80 bucks less, I'd do it. You don't list where you are (which would be nice) but I'd check at Costco, they have great prices on tires. I paid $119 each for Michelin X-1Plus (T-rated) for one of my cars and they are perfect, even at 100mph.

Read the 'pinned' section at the top. From what I've read, someone said they can get it out in 15 minutes? Not sure though , haven't tackled it yet.

I have the cooling system and transmission fluid flushed every two years. I also alway change my own oil and use sythetic oil. I by a case of Valvoline synthetic at Pep Boys for about 26 0r 27 dollars, and a Fram X-2 filter for 10. At every oil change, I also detail the engine. People always say, "man, how'd you get the engine so clean?" I reply, it never was dirty. My engine pictures are in the gallery. Sure beats watching stupid shows on TV.

If you do take it somewhere, just make sure they reinstall the splash shield and all 13 bolts. I would also use synthetic oil. Also, wax that rig! but use a good cleaner and even clay first.

I'll bet the technician forgot to put a bolt on when connecting the transmiisson. My friend had a dodge and it starteed doing the same thing. I pulled the inspection cover (I don't know if Lexus has one) and sure enough, his torque coverter to flywheel bolts were loose and one was missing. Even the dealership techs screw up, they have left several parts off of my car in the past. Apparently, NGAS anymore. That's why so many of us do it ourselves. Some of us just have more nerve than others. I'm not sure I'd try to do the transmission removal. I've done it before on several other cars but now I have less time and more money.

Hmmmm, guess I'll leave on my stock wheels and lugs for awile

Gotta agree with SWO It is really unfortunate that some executive at Lexus hasn't figured out that if they supported the owners of their older cars, it would dramatically increase the value of Lexus as a true world class luxury automobile. If I owned a Lexus dealership, I would offer open houses to people like you and me. Perhaps I would also have some of the technicians discuss the vehicles. I suppose that's why I'm not a Lexus dealer. I'm not greedy enough to suck a grand out of someone with a 13 year old car.

are you in the salt belt or something? My 90 shows no corrsion anywhere. Good to know about this stuff though. you never know when you have a problem what it is.

While I can't speak for your year, I folled the instructions I found on alldata.com and did exactly what the LS400guy said. Worked fine. I wasn't sure about that myself because I know with Chevys and Fords you have to relieve the pressure as you compress the piston in the caliper. I guess that isn't a concern with the Lexus. My 90 has a bleeder valve (see gallery picture) but if it doens't just do what was previously posted. Accomplishes the same thing. Best of luck with it.

Well, last week I replaced my right rear brake caliper. It had been working fine, but it's that trust thing ya know. After burning up nearly a whole pad two months ago, I decided that for $94, I'd just replace it. I am impressed because it was so easy. The caliper I got from Bap/Geon was the exact same as what was on the car. It came with new pads and hardware, but the guy at Bap/Geon told me not to use them. When I took it apart I knew why. The shims were glued on and the wire springs were cheap. I used my original pads (which I replaced two months ago) and all the original shims and springs. The only problem I encountered was after I had installed the new caliper, I realized that the brake line had to be screwed in by rotating the caliper. So I removed the two 17mm bolts and connected the brake hose. I have a Powerpoint presentation with pictures and directions. I wasn't able to post it because "you are not allowe to upload that type of file." Send me your email address if you want me to send it to you. I also put a couple of the pictures in the LS gallery.

Put a hell of a scratch in the highway! I wouldn't be happy.

I have a question about this unit. Bot only is mine starting to darken, but all the lights are out. I saw on http://www.cureline.net/lex/audio/howto_ra...dio_removal.htm how to remove. Do you ship the whole A/C control unit, or just the LCD part? Are the lights bulbs included with the 295 repair? Do you need to call Mikado first? Thanks