VBdenny

I have to agree with our friend from Brooklyn. The brake pads are so easy to change on the Lexus that the dealer should be arrested for charging so much. I do differ in one respect, I never have my rotors turned unless I can feel they are warped or if they have become scored. Every time you turn the rotors when they don't need it, you are wearing out expensive rotors. Believe it or not, you can change Lexus brake pads with the on-board tool kit. Jack up car with Lexus jack (break loose lug nuts first) Remove tire and put under frame (in case jack slips) Loosen and remove the upper 14mm bolt. Tip inner caliper out Remove two springs and remove pads and shims (two on each side of pad). Transfer remaining hardware (wear inicators) Put it back together. I posted a link to replacing the caliper, but you can see what the pads and hardware look like. Buy ONLY Lexus replacement pads. Many aftermarket pads are junk. If you don't know the difference, best to stick with genuine parts. I paid $79 for pads at dealer but have since seen them listed on this board much cheaper.

Yeah, but it sure looks cool when people are riding with you. I didn't notice much difference at all except that the Power E C T light comes on on the dash.

ou did make sure the steering coluum lock down lever was released prior to making a manual adjustment? It's a lever on the left side of the steering coluum.

I have played with the E C T button and put it on power. The only thing I notice is that it seems to hold in each gear longer. Does this switch change the engine timing or anything else? Just one of those things I was thinking about.

I have never heard of a timing belt on an LS400 breaking. I have heard many people worrying about it though. Has anyone ever actually had a timing belt break on their LS400? On my car the timing belt was changed at 90K per dealers suggestion and I don't worry about it at all.

Just remember you can't X rotate the tires on the Gen 1 LS 400's because the rims are designed for either left or right side. There are also some tires that can only be rotated ib one direction as well. Intereting that you said the control arms were "somewhat" worn. My dealer told me mine were "weak" but okay. If they had put a lubrication point on these they probably would have lasted forever.

Naw I originally made it in Powerpoint but that was 1.71MB which got kicked back by hotmail and others. I converted it to PDF and got it down to 583KB. I emailed Matthew McNully and he made the link. I just posted it cause I knew some of you wanted to check it out. I started doing that with all the stuff I do so when I go to do it again, I'll remember how. I could kick myself for not doing it when I replaced the headlight bulbs. I tried to remember and even went out and started taking one apart. Man, I just forgot how I did it. Anyway, it keeps me out of trouble!

Matthew McNally was kind enough to provide a link on this site to the slideshow I made showing how I replaced my RR brake Caliper. Hope you get a chance to check it out. Here is the link he provided. My Webpage

I clean my engine every time I change the oil. Keeping it clean is far easier than cleaning an engine after years of neglect. It involves a lot of time and often several cold refreshments. A TV on hand is also helpful. Luckily I have a refrigerator and a TV in my garage right in front of my Lexus. I use a rag, elbow grease, and Amour ALL. Usually I disassemble many of the covers (see pictures in LS400 gallery) and use a shop vac, old paintbrush, and small wire toothbrush looking brushes (brass, steel, and nylon). It takes a lot of time that no detail person wopuld ever spend. Here is how most of them clean an engine. They steam clean the engine and spray it with clear lacquer. I know thats how most of the used car sales places do it. Quick and it looks good when a customet pops the hood. I don't like spraying steam, water or lacquer on my engines so I use time. I can watch TV while I'm cleaning and it's a great evening of entertainment learning how everything fits together. I have also found many small things that need attention over the years using this technique.

I appreciate the info on doing it with the car soapy. I did mine using the Mothers detailing spray and it really worked great. Left my paint like glass. The only thing I did differently was to go over the entire car with Maquires #1 Paint Cleaner. This got off any tiny particles of tar, bugs and such. I figured I didn't want that stuff getting into the clay. Then after I clayed the car, I used Maquires #2 Polish. Then I applied about three coats of Collinite's #845 Insulator wax. I really like it because it is a sealer type wax which lasts forever. Wash it 20 times and it still looks like I just waxed it.

The Virginia Beach Lexus dealer told me that my timing belt was changed at 90,000 miles which was the recommended time. Maybe he was winging it?

Hey Todd, you need to start carrying your digital camera with you. I just gave mine to my daughter when she left for college so I guess I better go buy a new one for myself. I remember when 60 series tires came out and everyone thought they were cool. 35 series tires are way out there. And yes, I'll bet the speedometer/odometer are way off unless the circumference is the same or they changed the speedometer gear.

Hey good info on the 194's I also replaced my headlight bulbs but the side lights still look yellow. I'll be good over to PepBoys soon. I like the yellow fog lights as we have fog around Virginia Beach fairly frequently and the yellow really works better for me.

SRK, I appreicate the explaination. I've had shop manuals for most of my cars and must admit, I have used them for leisure reading as well. Very nice to have the manuals. The alldata.com is good, but still hasn't helped me fix my AC problem.

Yeah, that is wierd. did you take the key apart and see if it was dirty inside? Maybe there is some junk in the key that is causing it to short out. Does it do it with all your keys or just one?

Well, you might try this check. After driving the car for awile, put your hand on the rims and see if one is hotter than the other, If the caliper piston hangs up, it might be causing it to stick. I doubt this is the problem if it seems to be coming from both sides. Remember than when braking, a strain is put on other suspension parts. Perhaps a strut, or control arm is weak and shifting when the load changes? I know the upper control arms and ball joints on these cars wear out at 120000 or so. I also had my torsion bar bushing replaced. Mine make no sound when I brake but i have enough other stuff broken to keep me busy. You'd think that maybe Lexus could hook up a tech with this forum to give us a little insight. Sure would be nice. At least we have each other to diagnose problems. Try to identify when and under what conditions you hear the noise as someone might recognize what it is. Good luck Denny

I sent an email to Mikado and it came back as undeliverable. They still in business? I am also fighting this A/C problem. My compressor won't engage. I have a code 33 when I scan, and I ran the actuator test and all the fans work fine. I hate to start replacing stuff when it might be an ECU problem. I know what it means, but where is it?

Uh maybe just press the reset button everytime you stop? I did notice that my "B" odometer reads in 1/10 miles sometimes. Whats the deal with that?

I didn't know my email wouldn't show up? If anyone wants the Powerpoint my email is dwmahony@cox.net Todd, I sent it to you just a minute ago.

MY 90 LS 400 idles at 600 AFTER it's warmed up for 5 minutes. Until then it runs at 1600-1800n RPMS

Sorry, but I don't buy it. I have seen Nissans go well over 300.000 miles, and I had a Cadillac that went over 300,000. Neither had to idel at 1600-1800 RPM's to last. Having that high an idle when most people (I do warm my car up) just turn the key and cram it in gear. My guess is that you were right on the target about it being an emissions issue. Engines put out their highest levels of emissions upon cold start up and I'll bet it wouldn't pass msuter unless they jacked the idle up. Say what you will, but I think having a cold engine jump to 1800 RPM's is not desireable. Having to ride the brake to keep the car under the 25MPH speed limit is good engineering?

Sorry but you kind of lost me. Mass meter? vortex mirror? Maybe you could translate some of that for us please.

Hey, I saw this post. I think the problem is because the Lexus engine runs so damn high when on cold idle. Mine routinely idles at 1600 RPM's when it's a cold start up. Even here in Virginia Beach, with the car in the garage, ands it's 90 outside. I always try to leave time to warm the engine because it takes about four or five minutes for the idle to drop to 600 RPM's. I asked the dealer, they said it's normal and not adjustable. I asked others on this forum, and they all said the same thing. Well I think it sucks that the cars idles so high. What kind of idiot engineer would do that? My 2001 Nissan pickup idles at aboout 900 RPM's when cold. Concequently, when you shift into reverse, of course your going to get a huge jolt because it's almost like doing an old time tranny slam (like I did with my mom's car when I was in HS). I gotta think it's really bad for the car. If any of you Lexus company dudes are checking up on us, tell us what the deal is. If it turns out to be your caliper, man they are a piece of cake to replace. I took pictures and made a powerpoint show on how to do it. I couldn't post it because I guess this forum doesn't let us store that type of file. Email me and I send it. I also posted pictures in the gallery. Need more help? let me know. Took me 1/2 to replace the first time I did it.

I noticed while looking at my engine tonight that there appears to be a leak around the top of my coolant reservior. I just had the system flushed last year and the car never runs hot. The level is only slightly below the indicator marks, yet now everytime I look I seewhere coolant has been seeping. In addition to the cap, there is the other cap which connects the low fluid indicator but I can see where it is leaking from. Does the seal on the tank ever go bad? That's sure what it looks like to me.

Okay, that's what I suspected. It was previously my understanding that the 1990 gen 1 engines would not destruct if the timing belt broke. Is that non-interference?