AppleJack

Well the instructions were really good. Especially the ratchet with the flex head - worked great to get the two hard bolts loosened. I have a flurry of questions: It's probably a good idea to test the rebuilt starter before I put it back in. I've read that in several places and think its a good idea. However I'm not sure exactly how to do this - Should I just reconnect the battery and reconnect the starter terminals and let it sit loose in the V of the engine and then turn the key to start? Will the start motor torque and spin? - or Should I hold it while a friend gives it a crank? Also, with all the other 20 or so sensor disconnected all over the engine - will there be alarms/faults which will prevent the engine from trying to turn the starter motor over at all ...? What about the gas line - it will have fuel pumped out - should I be ready with a small tank to catch it ... I'm assuming I need to crank for about 2-3 seconds to make sure the gear moves out and turns ... and I should try that a couple of times before installing everything back together ... THanks for all the help - because this was a stretch of a job for me but it's almost over once I get the rebuilt starter back!!!

Well - my starter just went on me... Now I just get the wonderfull little "CLICK" sound when I turn the key.... I saw a good link a few months ago on how to get to it - but can't find it now. Anyone with tips and pics or links etc on this - please let me know. thanks

Yeah - I'm not interested in the "Hot Wheels" size and type .... I'm surprised there aren't any Japanese or foreign sources for casting these little cars ....

Has anyone ever seen a die cast Lexus SC400? You know those 1/12 or 1/24size type models. I've looked and looked and looked - and well - you get the point... and can't find anything like that anywhere... Your feedback is much appreciated!

Well in my Acura Legend - got it up to 137mph - at 7 am in the morning. And In my SC400 - I got right up to the top speed spec of 149mph due to the limiter - otherwise I think it would have gone a bit faster. (both times on a wide open highway without any other cars around!!)

Hey man - I did exactly what you did. I snipped off some of the plastic on the sides and made it fit.... Sounds like a goofy design scenario though - the slots were definitely there - but they must have changed and they just said - oh well, screw the filters for the 92 design ....

I've got about 130,000 miles on it - and use castrol 5w50 synethic ... Sounds like its still in good shape with 1 quart burning off in 3000miles - or maybe sometimes I even let it go to 4000 miles with the synthetic - but as soon as I see the low level light come on - then It's my cue to change it out ... (wow I'm surprised to see the expectations of this engine - 250,000 miles??)

thank for your help . My friend took everything apart again and put it back together and then it worked ... must have goofed up a connector or something.. this is the 50th time I've learned this lesson .."if there is something simple and straight forward to do on your car - then do it yourself, because no one will be as careful and gentle on your car as YOU would be!!"

Sorry to hear about the lack of help you got from the Lexus customer service group - join the club ... that was a quick dead end for me a few years ago ...

I've got an sc400 - and it's swift down the highway ... Going from 70 - 100mph is pretty quick (although I don't recommend doing this all day long - but once in a blue moon it happens and its a bit of a rush). Also, I believe a key part of the sc400 speed on the highway is the low drag of 0.31 (with spoiler) which allows more of the engine HP to go towards velocity instead of pushing air out of the way ...(this is the same for the 300) Anyways - I recommend the 400 however, I'll be honest - I've never been in a 300 - but you have to ask yourself , do you want a six cylinder or the big dog V8! good luck

Does anyone know why my 92 SC400 has great looking original paint? I don't have any rust either - mind you I spray the under side each fall .... I heard lexus put 7 coats of paint on the SC400 when Lexus launched it .. Is this true?

Ok - now back to square one. Does anyone know of any links or instructions to remove the starter motor... thanks.

Hmm - anybody else have anything more specific? I actually have to communicate this to a friend who has my car - and am not sure what they have loosened off to get access to change the ignition wires ...

For a 1992 SC400 - Does anyone know what ERROR CODE 15 represents?? (I changed my ignition cables and moved a few odds and ends - and now my car starts but then shuts off right away)

Anybody? No one else notices a slight drop in the oil level in between oil changes?

ok. sounds like the same thing I did with the alternator. Instead of giving the dealer a whack of cash - I spent a fraction of the price to get it reman'd... and with a 1 yr warranty ....

I did this for my car just recently and had problems. I have a 92 SC400 and spent $50 for the filters at the dealer. There are two cartidges. You push one in and slide it across - then you push the second one in. For me, the first one went in fine - but the second one was extremely tight - and I later found out for my vintage SC400 - there was no filter implemented. I still went ahead with snipping off a bit of plastic around the edges and squeezed it in. PS. I heard you should change it every season - but after the pain that mine was - I'll probably change it when things start to smell funny!! I hope things fit nicer for your sc300 ... good luck..

Anyways guys - thanks for the info .... I've got an ex-Lexus mechanic and friend checking it out. Sounds like its a major pain to get at - but once you have it the solenoid or contacts can be rebuilt? (Is there a link to instructions / pics to get at the starter?)

I've noticed a strange sound from the starter motor on my 92 SC400 over the last 3 - 6 months. The starter engages fine and turns the engine over and it starts right up .. but then I hear a strange winding down sound. I'm certain the winding down is from the starter but it isn't normal - and it almost seems like it stays engaged with the flywheel/motor too long and it gets forced a little by the engine and revs up the starter motor. Then finally after it disengages - this might be the soft "wwheeerrrriinnnng" sound as the starter motor slows down to a stop. Any thoughts or ideas on this? Is it hard to get to the starter - and what part of it may need to be checked out/rebuilt? (thanks in advance)

Really? I just used the reservoir tank and kept adding coolant slowly. It took a few days of checking and re-topping if off though ... whatever works I guess...

I've noticed a pattern on my 92 sc400. After about 3000 miles (5000 km) the oil level has drops approx 1 quart and then the low oil level light comes on. Since this is right around the time for an oil change - I just change the oil instead of topping it up. Does anyone else notice this type of oil level drop - and is it normal?

Hello - Anyone ... - In the Thermostat assembly in the above link - what is the Nut on the top of the housing for???

You were right - there weren't any filters. So I bought some at the dealer and later had troubles because there weren't any filters designed for my 92 SC400. However, with the ones they provided - I was able to clip off a bit of plastic around the edge to trim it up and managed to slide both filters into place. We'll see how they work - and it'll be a pain taking them out later .... By the way - how do you know when it's time to change the filters??

I would watch exactly where the leaks occur. Did they identify where it is coming from? Based on that - you'll be able to decide a suitable course of action. I know the alternator in Canada goes for $950 so I'd imagine the compressor cost would be huge as well. That would have to be a last option. It may be able to get repaired - not sure where though .... you'll have to do a search and see what the shop says ... You could potentially save lots of money so spending some time researching it may be worthwhile.

And keep in mind - If you're needing to recharge your system - that means you have a leak. It may be big and fast or small and slow - but all in all it is leaking. Recharging it may keep things cool for a while but once the refridgerant is gone - it'll run warm again. You may want to get it leak tested before wasting the money on recharging. I had mine tested (they can use soapy water and look for bubbles or use a colour gas) and then did a patch up repair ... and its run great for about 3 years now ... good luck