AppleJack

Hey there ... how about for the SC400 - with the 4.0litre engine?

(I didn't realize there was a screen in the reservoir? I was actually going to clean out the solenoid filter and drain all the fluid and refill with new)

Anyone got any tips on this, - going once, going twice, ..... ?

Hey guys, here is an old post I pulled up. Any sources for an SC400 engine cover. I love keeping it on my car cause it definitely keeps the engine clean. (Haven't tried making an aluminum one yet - lazzzy) Thanks for any sources!

Holy smokes - you're right! bought a mirror for 2 bucks and checked out part of the perimeter of the valve cover on the passenger side - and it's definitely got a tiny leak. I'm surprised they'd both need replacing at the very same time, but I guess they do age the same and more or less need replacing. (and I thought I would get away with only doing the easy driver's side- sigghhhh) Lesson's learned - when replacing valve cover gasket - JUST DO BOTH.

OK - good, cause that's all I did. Funny thing though ... I still smell a tiny bit of oil, but nothing leaking and I don't think it's coming from the the right side that I did the work on already. Is it possible the otherside is now starting to leak? It's more difficult to get a good look so I'm getting a little mirror thingy to check it out. Do these valve covers tend to leak simultaneously or could there be something else causing excessive pressure? (I'll share back the findings once I've gotten and good view for signs of leak) thanks,

Well, - I rebuilt the alternator and power steering pump 1year ago. I didn't change the PS fluid though. There aren't any leaks and everything is working fine - and somewhere on the posts it was recommended not to dig into the solenoid screen unless you have to..... So, should I go looking for trouble (with good intention of putting fresh lube in) or should I leave it alone until something stirrs up. (Personally, if I've got time and am careful not to disrupt anything - the I'd prefer to do some Preventative Maintenance - especially since I've got 230,000km on this car.)

Come on? really - that much? hmmm. Well, I've only put the stuff where there were corners or changes in the material on the gasket surface .... It seems to be ok - but I'm not 100% convinced. I've put about 500 miles on it so far - ranging through various accelerations and speeds ... Time will tell I guess. Now, is this practice of putting a bead all the way around something that is just a preference -or is it a standard activity in conjunction with a new gasket? TO BEAD OR NOT TO BEAD ? anyone?

Are there any visuals to do the draining or to see what the filter looks like? Any pictures or instructions would be great...

I was checking out my fluid levels and noticed my Power steering fluid is kinda dirty and definitely smells burnt. What's the best way to drain the fluid to get all the old stuff out so I can recharge with new. What about the fan and brake fluid - is this neccessary? ps. I've got 230,000 km on this car..

Did it all last night. Cleaned cover and head very nice and made sure to remove old beads completely. Put the silicone/seal material (black) in the corners. I don't think there is a need when the aluminum head is smooth and flat (no scratches etc). Need to wait 24 hours for proper cure and we'll see. Is there much pressure in the cover area. I'm assuming its more of a casing for the oil splashing around inside... I don't have a torque wrench so I snugged them up using a 1/4" drive so I wouldn't over do it . .. I'm guessing 20ftlbs max ....

I've taken of the valve cover but I noticed the old gasket had an additional bead of RTV or silicone to help seal in certain areas. I'm pretty sure this was OEM stuff but don't know if I need to replace it when I install the new one. When I asked the parts dept at lexus, they said I only need the new gasket. Any thoughts on this - especially where the head geometry has sharp corners?

Me again, and here is an attached image to help visualize my oil leak. thanks.

Hello, I think I've got a leaking valve cover on my SC400. It's on the drivers side. Is this common for 240,000km? Is it straight forward to replace (ie. 2-3hours?) Is it possible for the PCV to have something to do with this? and known links or pics on what steps to take? Do I need just the valve cover gasket or are there other seals to replace? thanks for you help in advance, it's proven to save a lot of money to ask these questions. (like the starter motor I changed which I'm sure saved $1500!!) Applejack

I just passed my emissions flawlessly on a 92 sc400 with 230,000 km on it. My tricks for emission tests, 1. new air filter 2. fresh oil change 3. full tank of sunoco 94 octane fuel 4. a good 20 minute run up and down the highway But if your numbers are way off - then you may have sensors issues and depending on the test results, then a good dealer should be able to diagnose the cause of the failed test...

Love it. I've got the same car but a 92 - and I may just have to show you up and post a few pics of mine. It's a good feeling seeing some other dude go down the highway with the same exact car - expecially when it isn't a common car and it's in awesome condition!

I did PS pump work on my SC400 about 2 years ago. It was leaking small amounts and I made the mistake of letting it go until it dripped oil on my alternator and fried it. That alternator is a small fortune for the part alone - and in my opinion the PS pump was too expensive as well. In Canada, the part costs were Alternator - $990, PS pump - about $400. and then with all the labour - $750 , it would total almost $2500 with taxes. So, I removed the alternator first - and had it rebuilt for $226, and bought the PS pump rebuild kit for $50 and had a shop rebuild it for another $50. All the labour was done by myself so it totalled about $400 - much less than the $2500.(mind you I had to put my car on a flatbed and have it moved 100 miles and that cost $250).... Anyways - long story short, the rebuilding of the PS pump (and alternator if you don't do this quick) is not rocket science and a good quality shop will provide a decent warranty for their work (1 yr). I did all the work by finding instructions on websites to change each item and my car has been fine for 2 years now. You can save some $$ and justify a full set of tools that you can use for a lifetime by doing one or two jobs like this. (recently I changed my starter motor - and once again - had it rebuilt for $200 to avoid the ridiculous $900 starter motor cost from the dealer - the money I saved from doing it my self is still sitting pretty in my pocket!) good luck

Yes - the brake torque thing work's really well on this car. Follow these instructions: 1. Put the transmission in 1st gear. 2. Press lightly on the brake and start giving gradually more gas. 3. Continue giving gas until you feel the car starting to creep - then apply more braking gently. 4. Continue doing this until you've got the gas near the floor. By the time you're most of the way down you will have heard the wheels starting to spin - and you need to keep doing it for about 3- 5 seconds and then keep the gas pedal floored and let of the brakes so all the engine power goes straight to the rear wheels and hold on for good fishtale or two!! I'm in the process of burning of an old pair of tires so I can put on new winter tires and I've done this a few times lately - its fun - and stupid but I keep on doing it. Go nuts.

The headers sound like a neat idea for the SC. Does anyone know how much they would increase the HP? 10hp? 15hp?

Does anyone have any instructions on how to change the waterpump on an 1992 SC400 1UZFE engine?

Well, I've crossed the two wires at the distributer and now corrected the ignition cables and it runs fine - but now I notice that when I shut off the engine - I hear that thermal cooling sound - like "clinking" from underneath the passenger side under the vehicle. For years I've hear some clinking from cooling and its normal to have some - but now it's pretty intense and I"m wondering if I could have screwed up my catalytic converter? I also notice a fair amount of heat generated from beneath my vehicle if it has been running for 15 -20 minutes and as I open the door on the drivers side the heat just swoops up... Does my car have 2 catalytic converters? Is there an easy way to tell without removing the catalytic converter?

I just replaced the starter motor on my SC400 - and accidentally had two iginition wires flip flopped. Of course it ran pretty rough - and I actually went around the block with it (5 minutes) thinking maybe there was some carbon build up after I clean out many passages in the throttle body - manifolds etc ... Well, I've now corrected the ignition cables and it runs fine - but now I notice that when I shut off the engine - I hear that thermal cooling sound - like "clinking" from underneath the passenger side under the vehicle. For years I've hear some clinking from cooling and its normal to have some - but now it's pretty intense and I"m wondering if I could have screwed up my catalytic converter? I also notice a fair amount of heat generated from beneath my vehicle if it has been running for 15 -20 minutes and as I open the door on the drivers side the heat just swoops up... Does my car have 2 catalytic converters? Is there an easy way to tell without removing the catalytic converter?

Update on my rough running engine. I don't think it has anything to do with the vaccuum lines. While the engine is running, I went through each of the wire connections (to the plugs) and pulled them. The first one and last one made the engine run worse. The middle two (#3 and #5) didn't cause any change - so they're not firing! Oddly enought these two ignition wires are fed from the other distributer on the left side. I'll have to dig back in under the left cover just to make sure the wires are connected - and then I'll go through the same process. (I also wasn't sure if maybe the two injectors were not working - but when I touch them with a long screwdriver I can feel their pulsation so I think they're ok) Any one else have any ideas ...

Good day. Well I finally did the big starter change job - and what a job it was. Long story short- I put everything back together and it started right up. New problem - car is running rough?? Need help? * no black smoke , no blue smoke, no white smoke. * engine seems to rock a bit when idling * slow rough accleration in gear, and even in Neutral revs up slowly - and sounds waffley * I had cleaned the throttle body and both intake manifolds to remove carbon gunk build up.... - My gut feeling is it is not electrical or fuel related as I was meticulous about every electrical connecter. Are there some hoses in particular which may cause this effect? such as vacuum lines or EGR parts ...? thoughts or pointer are appreciated

Right. I kinda agree - but I need to make sure it will engage and turn over properly once installed ensuring no little connection hiccups. For you guys who have done this job - you can appreciate not spending another 10 hours digging back into the engine for some goofy little thing ... (by the way - starter had a destroyed bearing and contacts were needing replacement soon since car has 220,000Km) Has anyone put their starter in and had issues with error codes which would not allow turning the key to test the starter (while injectors, manifolds, etc are still removed ...)??