AWJ

Good luck friend.

The ge has not truly been pushed on the stock bottom end. In fact - there are only a couple of major players on the GE - a guy in the New York area by the handle osofast240 running a GE in a nissan and another in the missouri area that I know of. I have not seen documented failures of the stock bottom end although I know someone has done it. I could venture to guess 500 ponies reliably. Over that the guys start going to aftermarket rods, pistons, and lowering compression. But who knows for sure. If someone here does, please contribute with some type of documentation. Oh wait, Ethan spun a main bearing at 940+ rwhp. The GE and GTE are nearly identical downstairs aside from a couple squirters. Similar horsepower can definitely be acheived on the GE motor - it has been done several times. I've heard of max 32 psi on a built GE with proper tuning. I've run 19psi on mine. My controller maxes at 20psi. That is risky though. I will have the tuning checked sometime this summer. You have done work with Sound Performance - so you know already. Of course they are great. The swap is going to cost some labor though. I take it you're in the Chicago land area? There are a couple of other guys around that may help you for cheaper. Talk with Quickturbo. He dropped his own motor. There is also another shop in the are whose name escapes me at this point that may be of assistance to you. I will check it out. If you are in the Cali area - I've heard good things about SP engineering as gslx4s states. Also there is PHR, PF, Toyomoto, and many others perfectly capable of doing the job. Do your research first though. Check out our FAQ. I see you know of Ebanks and Cory. Cool cats - good luck.

Your match is out there - patience is rewarded. Congratulations. ;) You are a lucky new JZZ31 owner. Enjoy.

I see them on E-bay on and off. You can also contact the dealerships for a true rip off. Or check the online suppliers of parts - maybe a salvage yard. 30$ to 150+$ - You can definitely install it yourself.

Check out the links in the faq for more assistance. Especially the microbyte supplied SC300 stereo info. Also, My friend Ms. Emerald at Import Toys she had one on E-bay last week. Custom din fitting for our odd console.

Perhaps, I may assist there. I just got back. Your fan, or pulley may have gone out of balance as well. Perhaps the thermostatic clutch assy. Or the water pump itself. Stay tuned. I'll try to have some info tonight if I may find some time. Regarding the cooling system, there is no documented trouble shooting other than the thermostat. Removal and dropping in water heated to opening temperature. It is possible your water pump is cavitating, or you thermostat is acting up as well as the other items, perhaps a loose bolt or damaged pulley or something throwing things out of whack. Let me know if you want the schematics or removal items procedure - I'll try to get it up.

Call your dealership and ask them how many 02 sensors your vehicle has. If it is the 2jz motor then you have 2 - not sure on the newer one though you may have three. They are located in your exhaust system. They do monitor the air to fuel ratio of the cumbustible mix in your motor. It is recommended to use a special wrench on these things. I've never done the job though. I saw the wrench on e-bay for sale - toyota parts search. When you talk to the delearship, ask them the part number for the 02 sensors. Then call another dealership and ask them the same question to make sure they are telling you the correct info. Once you have the correct part number, call NAPA or another automobile parts store and ask them in they carry toyota o2 sensors and give them your part number. If they don't have the exact part, they will probably have a cross-reference from a company like Bosh or Delco or something. As far as actually doing the job, that is going to be easier or harder than getting the parts depending on your abilities and the tools. Take your time and you should be fine. I'd recommend getting your hands on the factory service manual for your vehicle. The delearship is the only place to get those usually. They cost up to 200+$ for 2 to 3 volumes but they cover all jobs and are worth their weight in gold. That is the book they use in their service departments to fix our cars.

Register your vehicle here. Word has it, they give owners manuals to those in need. Welcome. A lot of helpful links are in the faq - good luck. Lexus

May as well do a complete tune up. Change all fluids, rotate tires if stock, change plugs, distributor cap and button, air filter, all belts, coolant flush, oil, transmission, and differential inspection. Check your bushings and suspension items out as they are probably getting to their age. These can go by for now but will need attention eventually depending on model year and mileage. I will change mine out - probably not until next summer though.

I'm jealous. I think I'm gonna give up and get a job as wrench at a performance shop. I need friends like that in crucial places. Very nice stuff. Good work.

LOL Yea, a crate motor vette will go fast. So will a mustang, vega, chevette, gremlin, g-body, f-body, s-10, t-bird, etc. To duplicate mag times - start looking for problems with the car. What is the elevation at that track? If the camaro is hitting specified time - the track is at sea level or about that at least. If you are a good driver something is wrong with your car. Something as simple as the air filter, a fouled plug, dist. cap - it could be anything. Start looking if you want to hit that 15.3 1/4.

You may remove the tensioner. There are three bolts. Then try it again. There are marks the tensioner flag should be between for a new belt and old. procedure

Cool. I've been wrong before. I'm getting used to it. Thanks for the clarification on the ps reservoir. At least that can be eliminated as the issue then. Nice job. Brakes eh? I haven't done much with those yet. Keep us posted please. I may be able to get some info for ya when I get a chance. This helps me learn as much as I can as well - and I like that.

I sent you a PM. The trunk lifts can be done yourself. There is a how to in the faq - I can get a description going as well. There is also a thread in this forum on that topic. I'll get the link later. As far as the sub thing, a stock sub will replace just fine. You sould be careful about aftermarket subs due to installation issues. I have a aftermarket free air sub in mine but am away from the vehicle and records so I can not advise well on that now. The intake thing, check the link in the faq as well for Peter Scott's Soarer page and look for the write up on the BFI intake. The data there is an eye opener. You can get a k&n style intake filter or drop in to your choice. Performance gains are minimal. They can look good though. As far as the dealer - yea, I know. I try to do most work myself. If I use a mechanic I call around and ask them if they have diagnostic equipment for the vehicle in question. If they do, then they can run codes and see what the computer is saying in the car. That gives you a better idea of where a potential problem may be. If your car is running well, chances are you have some time. But you should check it out when you have the chance/money. It may not be a real big deal. I had vehicles throw codes with nothing wrong before - just increased air inputs due to my modification caused the computer to think something was wrong. I'm really buisy - so be patient. I'll get you some info in the next day or so.

Courtesy of wmulli:

I see. I really didn't help too much. Others have found that a CD player cleaner kit does help with the skipping though. As far as distortion, you'll need to swap hardware. Check out that link in the faq though: SC stereo hack - courtesy of microbyte

Both the first sc and current one in my history had/have an open differential. A limited slip is always a good upgrade if you feel the cost is worth it. I've been looking for a supra TT auto LSD to swap in. What do you mean by lag time? With 350+ hp on tap at the wheels on the 5 speed I have no lag or problem spinning tires. As far as wich one, I don't know - I haven't checked or had a chance. I've heard that the SC's will spin both tires on occasion. There is some debate about wether or not a LSD was available in the SC. I don't think there was. But I've been wrong before. The first sc would spin the passenger side sometimes and driver side other times when I dropped the clutch. I don't know if it ever spun both - never checked. UCF3, if you have an auto, you'll need more power or freed up power to get a real spin going. I'd recommend a torque converter and a turbo. If you're trying to get a burnout going there are ways. But it is not good for the car. Your differential is not to blame though.

I don't see anything wrong with the sound system but maybe you got a dud. There is a link in the faq to the SC sound system. You can change the head unit. You can add an aftermarket amp. There is an RCA issue depending on what you want to do. You can use an aftermarket amp to run an aftermarket sub in the stock location with the stock head - or otherwise - but there are obstacles. I'm not up on exactly what they are. I don't have any problems with cd-r's. Maybe the player needs a cleaning. I don't think it is related to nak or pioneer systems. Wish I could give more but sounds are not my big game. I've only played around a little with stuff people already hooked up. Never actually dove in and did an install. I'm good at pulling speakers and heads and stuff :o . Maybe someone else here has some input or you can hit up the audio/video/electronics forum for some more input.

Jeez, I don't know man. Start with a tune up. Air filter, plugs, wires, distributor, oil, transmission, differential and go from there. Are you running premium fuel? Sounds like your car might be running in limp mode with pulled timing. Any check engine lights on? What was your reaction time? Did you spin from the dig or anywhere else down the track? Did you run it more than once? How do your tires look? What size are they? It could be anything or a bunch of things making that car slow. It should be able to run high 15 to 16 depending on the driver with the car in great shape.

Ok that is a problem that needs thorough investigation. That lamp is telling you that something in the engine control system is not working right. It is not related to your mirrors not working. There is a procedure to connect a couple of terminals on a diagnostic port that will make the MIL light flash. The sequence of flashes relates to a numerical value. This value corresponds with a troubleshooting checklist and cause item. Did your mechanic do this? It sounds like he just reset your ecu by pulling the fuse or disconnecting the battery. This will reset the light until the fault comes back. If your car is running well and the light is going on and off then the situation is intermittent. If you feel comfortable doing the check for the code I can send you the procedure. You will need two wires spliced together to act as a jumper between two and three terminals. Your other items, the seats - sounds like a short/ground issue. Same with the mirrors. Your radio situation could definitely be related to one or both of these items. My first SC had a bunch of wiring hacks done and I traced a bad ground to the cigarette lighter from a power splice that killed the whole dashboard. The mirrors never did work in that car either, but I never got to fix it. To buisy working on making the car go fast and then it was gone. The best method to troubleshoot, is hard to recommend without being there. Have you done any electrical work in the past? Best method is a multimeter and access to all wires and shcematics. That is easier said than done though. The trunk lifts can easily be done by yourself - I say easily, easily enough with some mechanical know how. Everyone is different eh? Recommendations on aftermarket head unit - I had a jvc cd player in the old one. I still have it I think. Somewhere. As well as some Diamond Audio speaker components. I have no recommendations on changers. Did the car originally have a factory changer? If so, then you can probably replace it in the trunk location if the connections are still there. The guys in the audio forum may be able to assist more with sound system type questions. Try the faq up top as well. Feel free to rant. No problem here with that, I think.

No problem man - I should have given you the old listen test - but I wasn't thinking of it at the time ;) Have someone work the steering wheel with the engine running while you get ear on the pump. Best way to know. If it makes noise - that's the culprit. Could just be a plugged strainer in the resrvoir. The strainer can't be replaced though. It is molded into the plastic reservior. Some guys have pulled it out. Others have bought new strainers, replaced the fluid and had no more noise or issue. Others have had to rebuild or replace the pump because of fluid leak. The latter is my condition, although it did quit making noise <_< . Anyways, maybe someone else has dealt with it as well. Feel free to jump in.

Are you referring to the battery charge light or the alternator light? I'll give more later - or someone else will. Gotta go. ;)

Heh - those damn low mileage 95's weren't driven enough to keep the seals wet I think. Go figure. My steering pump is doing the same - or it was. It went away. I don't know why you would feel it through the brake pedal though unless it is just vibrations. The pump does make that kind of cavitation noise or whirring, soft whiney sound that will change tone louder or quiter when turning the wheel. My pump is leaking. Kind of bad. I need a rebuild or a new one. I thought ps fluid should be more clear. Try flushing it first. Make sure your reservoir strainer is not plugged. You could refill it with toyota ps fluid and a seal wetter. That just might help you out. As long as that reservior strainer is not clogged. If you still have noise - you need a new one or rebuild too. PS - the antifreeze is that red toyota stuff. I'd recommend draining it and using the normal green stuff. I've only heard stories but they weren't good about the red stuff. I just don't like it. The previous owner of my car mixed the red and green <!--emo&--><!--endemo--> I need to flush that crap ASAP. Any way, yea - the red stuff is normal.

No doodie you were gone a while. Glad to hear the good news. Some pictures? That stuff is expensive here too but I hear it is more expensive over there. Well there you have it. I want to see pics of the tuner shop, input, and details on the build up. Good luck.

Right on. There ya go. Thanks red rocket. I've never used that feature. I just set the stuff manually and go. Maybe I'll try that sometime.