AWJ

There is nothing like that on the web that I know of. But there will be shortly. The factory service manuals are worth their weight in gold. I am trying to get some options together as far as methods to obtain the service manual but if you can't weight then contact the dealer for copies. They run about 200$ or so for two manuals. I'll show you the schematic of the 1uz-fe where the starter is. You have to remove the intake manifold to access it. Therefore, all intake ducting and fuel rail and injectors I'd imagine. It is removed from the top on the SC400 so don't worry about a tranny bracket. This is the layout for the top of the motor. These are all the items that need to come off. Click on the attatchment - it has the starter location circled and pointed out. I'd recommend having a mechanic do this unless you have lots of time and feel comfortable pulling your entire intake manifold. Various SC schematics can be located scattered through out the gallery located - HERE

Hey, no problem, really, don't mention it. It's all good. Injen is not worth it to me. But they look good.

Several people have, but it is real tight space.

I'm in a real hurry. Wish I could scan it for you. Maybe one of the other guys can help. The 1UZ starter is under the intake manifold on the top of the fly wheel. It is not easy to get at from what I hear. I can post the schematic tonight if it is not up before then. good luck.

B)

There have been a couple threads asking about superchargers. I have my personal feelings about the overrated air heaters but I'll keep them to myself. For those of you whom are interested here are a couple links I came across recently - incase you guys didn't find them already. I'll add them into the faq as well. EFIdynamics Forced Air Enjoy.

That's getting to black box territory. :magic: I've never messed around with it. The turbo set-up in ours has a SC400 maf. I haven't done much playing with this. But that screen obviously does something. You didn't mention that you were playing with the maf before. It's always that kind of stuff that bites us I guess. I've done many similar things before and learned a lesson or two. ;) Glad you got it there. The whole thing is a vortex measurement device. I've heard of people swapping the sensors with 1UZ sensors but never removing the screen. It seems that is was just affecting your idle. So that may be part the equation that meters air at no load and after wards the system goes over .... nevermind - I'm not gonna try. The stuff confuses me. All I know is you can replace it with a vpc or map system standalone or modify the signal slightly with high and low settings on a fuel controller by following the directions for your application.

Ouch....... :chairshot:

Your getting the hang of it already. A lot of digging needs to be done to learn this stuff. Take it one step at a time. Make sure you get quality parts and know exactly what goes into the job. If you pay someone to do it - be patient - but know where to check for problems. It is a learning experience. Coilovers may be overkill if you are not running the track or in need of adjustabiltiy. Eibach springs with kyb agx shocks have been well received for quality ride. I've heard great things about JIC FLT 1 (I think they are) $$$. There are lots of things you can do. I think it is very important to point out that bushings should be checked. If you are unaware of where they are located, take it to a tire or suspension shop and ask them to check the ball joints and upper and lower control bushings. They will probably be okay. But these should be accounted for if you want to lower your car, you will be stressing these items. Always get two opinions especially starting out. The factory service manuals are priceless in terms of learning your car and how to asses mechanical condition. Good luck.

Major tune-ups should last every 60,000 miles. I check my cars every year. In the summer and winter. Belts will last over 60,000 miles but that is when they are recommended to be changed. I'd recommend checking the power steering pump for leaks and having the alternator tested. The motor will last as long as you take good care of it. It is hard to say otherwise. Just change the oil regularly at least at 3 to 4,000 miles (some people go 6 to 10,000 and don't have problems - but I couldn't do that). I have the speaker specs but maybe someone else can help with that - no time now. Or try the audio/video forum. The lights will cost $$$ from the dealer. Or try ebay or www.taprecycling.com. Or other salvage sources. Good luck and welcome to the forum.

I know you say that the recommended items have been ruled out. But it sounds a lot like that pesky fuel pump ecu. I'd look for a second opinion. Check fuel related relays, fuses, make sure all the standard tune-up items are working correctly and in the proper condition and go from there. It is too difficult to diagnose exactly the problem on the internet. We can only recommend.

It is a mass air system but it is hot wire - karmen vortex - if that means anything to you. Still confuses the **** out of me. All I know is our stock injectors can only handle so much duty before they are useless. It is not at all uncommon for hp apps over 500 hp to completely redo the fuel system either eliminating the stock ecu or extensively piggy backing by converting to speed density type vein pressure systems. 500hp is not a limit. Although plenty of failures can occur at this level. I maintaint that 600hp can be handled with the stock motor internals but extensive tuning and electronics are needed to control the system. Otherwise - BOOOM. I don't like superchargers. They are cool on grassroots style american powerplants but in the essence of their design - they are inefficient. For the money that will be spent trying to build a supercharged 1uz-fe - you could have a super beast 2jz. Or at least a turboed 1uz. Not that there is anything wrong with that if that is what you want to do. I will not dis the desire to do something new or at least - less persued. If you are looking for a strong automatic, check out the Sound Performance solutions. They have built SP400 auto trannies for our applications. They are based on the chevy turbo trannies and modified to fit our chasis. They are also highly raved.

It is always a good idea to change any gaskets whenever the seal is broken. Sometimes they can be reused if they are not damaged or just to get by until new gaskets are available. Call the dealer for the part or try the local auto parts store. The motor is the same as in the naturally aspirated supra mkiv, gs300, and such so keep that in mind for cross reference. I don't have the part number. But I will in the future. ;) Maybe someone else knows it?

That is some rare stuff to see stateside. You'll pay dearly if you can find the real deal. But it would be cool. As far as electric fans, I had them on the first car. If they are wired properly, they do the job. There is an increased electrical load. So you need to plan accordingly if you have a heavy sound system or whatnot. The SC is heavily electronic to begin with. My car overheated 3 separate times with the electric fans because of various causes like melted wires, bad ground, and just plain forgot to turn them on once. Luckily, the motor never showed any sign of problem. Although I never got to tear into it like I wanted due to the loss of the vehicle.

B)

You'd have to call on that. Try www.taprecylcing.com. Or the dealer - *shivers* at the thought of the price. Here is the thread with the procedure for the 95 tails. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...&f=3&t=1010&hl=

Greetings freind, Welcome to USLOC! Lets see what we can do. Motorwings This site might help. Maybe they can make them for you. Or you could make your own with some clear plastic from a hardware store and some creativity.

1. Not without a standalone or vvt-i ecu. 2. There isn't anyone here yet with a tc. There are plenty of people who have done it though. MRSypher in the GS forums has one, you could ask him if you have specific questions. They are definitely worth it. 3. Turbo kits. Not really. There are a couple custom turbo set-ups one offs. SRT has a prototype. Not sure about production. A guy in California turboed his LS400 with a custom single turbo, and there was another one off twin turbo somewhere. It is expensive but not impossible. One though is that with custom manifolds a newer mustang TT kit could be customized to work with a 400. 4. Again, not production scale. Some of the australians might have some. Not sure though. Could get custom. But it is hard to improve on the factory pieces without a turbo. 5. OK, check out peter scott's link in the faq. Check out all of the links actually. That will give you a good idea of where and how to look.

Not bad. I need to install a short shifter too. ;)

The question set seems a little trivial. If you don't want a car with rust, don't by a car with rust.

Try these guys. Maybe they can help you. Some guy.com

Never saw this before.... venturi 300

Not really. But I haven't tried it. So go out and give it a shot. It won't hurt. ;)

Are you !Removed! around? <_<

There is probably nothing wrong with model 2. The price is more advantageous. And if you going to change a lot of the parts thay may degrade over lots of miles out anyways (like suspension, bushings, exhaust, etc.) and take good steps to make sure it is taken care of - it will be just fine. That said, I'd take the 1995.